September 6th, Day Seven: Eastern Townships One More Time
One Great Scenic Spot!
The Eastern Townships of Quebec have already been described as reminiscent of Austria's southern province, Styria. The lovely green mountains and many lakes enable one's spirit to roam at will through the space of fresh air and imagination. That's what I felt looking out at the top of the high mountain hills. The night before I watched the retreating Sun fall behind the mountain's huge bulk. Now the Sun was shining on top of the mountain----its rays reflecting the multi-faceted colours of the huge fold.
Vinoble de La Bauge
We were on our way to Vinoble de La Bauge located in Brigham and not far from the Appalachian Mountains. Here time seem ed to stand still and visions of Ichabod Crane came to mind however it also occurred to me that I soon would be standing on the same spot that was occupied by the Champlain Sea and before that another ocean millions of years ago. "Stand Still" alright. Change is the only unchangeable truth.
The name La Bauge is taken from the original concept of what the winery was to be----a place where wild boars lived or their lair. Initially the winery was going to be a supplier of boar meat to the local people of Brigham and area. In 1987 grapes were planted. The vineyards and a growing menagerie of animals including the original Swedish boars was inherited by the son of Alcide and Ghislaine Naud, Simon, continued in their path. When we visited the winery Simon took us out to the vineyards which now had over 26,000 vines planted. The menagerie of exotic animals had also grown from just boar and cattle to include: Yak, Obelix,Llamas, Emus, Deer, Mountain Goats and Jamaican Goats, exotic cattle etc. He had also introduced experimental vines and made some very special wines. They take agro-tourism to a new level offering guests a chance to experience Nature by visiting these exhibit animals while enjoying a chance to experience the art of viticulture and winemaking.
Wines
Wines range from dry whites made from Seyval Blanc and dry reds made with blends of Chancellor, St. Croix, Sabrevois and Frontenac to sweet and semi sweet wines made from both single and blended wines. The fortified wines are also very excellent.
Vignoble Les Pervenches
We left La Bauge in Brigham and drove over to Les Pervenches in Farnham. This was a unique place in that many of its vines were of vinifera stock. Chardonnay and Zweigelt as well as French Hybrids: Seyval Blanc, Marechal Foch and Frontenac.
The vineyard is not huge but it is certified organic and bio dynamic. The owners, Veronique Hubin and Mark Marler purchased the property and business in 2000 though the property has been in production since 1991.
When we arrived, the netting was just being placed over the Zweigelt Vines to protect them from birds. Veronique and Mark met us and discussed their philosophy of wine in Quebec. They dismiss the idea that grapes of a vinifera calibre cannot grow in this region primarily because they know that good grapes require work and sacrifice as well as the fact that many areas in the Eastern Townships have micro climates that are conducive to the growth of good grapes. They believe that they have it at Pervenches.
Mark took us in to taste some of his wines and I must admit, his Chardonnay was magnificent and his red wine was not far behind. Mark and Veronique did not propound theories or talk a great deal but they just let their wines do the taking for them. The place may not be big but man this is a case where big things come in small packages.
L'Orpailleur
Vignoble del'Orpailleur was our next stop and if Pervenches was small, then l'Orpailleur was gigantic in comparison, This vineyard is one of the oldest in the Eastern Townships and Quebec. The name means gold referring to the prospecting for gold in the many rivers in the Eastern Towns. Dunham. where the winery is located. is a gorgeous area and was known as the centre of wine in Quebec.
We were shown around the large complex which had now over 100,000 vines planted consisting of Seyval Blanc, Seyval Noir, Vidal, De Chaunac, Marechal Foch, Frontenac, Geisenheim and New York Muscat.
The winery is a cornucopia of activities that range from the excellent restaurant and decor to the vast tasting boutique. guided tours, special catering events and the Economuseum which houses written, photographic and physical exhibits depicting the wine trade, wine making and the historical aspect of wine and l'Orpailleur. The name itself reflects a piece of history as it was a name given to the first wine from the first harvest in 1985 by Gilles Vigneault. The name means "Gold Gatherer"!
History
L'Orpailleur was one of the first wineries established in the first township (1845) of Lower Canada. Dunham became closely entwined with wine---being the first to have large vineyards growing in it and the first to win international awards. It is by far the largest winery.
The founders of the winery established ways of "hilling up" areas around the vines thus protecting them from the ravages of winter. They borrowed this technique from vintners in Northern Europe and the then Soviet Union. To many in Canada the method became known as the "Quebec Method" and has been used in new areas such as Ocala Winery in Port Perry and more recently in the region of Prince Edward County of Ontario. Other areas in Nova Scotia, New Brunswick and Prince Edward Island are familiar with this method which has inspired many to proceed with wine making in areas that would otherwise not be productive.
They have a lot to thank the founders of L'Orpailleur who had the conviction and intestinal fortitude to move ahead when others probably told them to stop.
The rest is of course history and l'Orpailleur is still going strong with its various wines ranging from dry white Seyval Blanc to a delicious Rose to an excellent dry Red blend. The other success story is of course Icewine which l'Orpailleur produces from Vidal grapes. It is a challenge being first! The challenge comes from the major risks taken both financially and physically as well as the challenge to maintain success once established with the inevitable competition from late comers. L'Orpailleur it seemed to us had not only met the challenge but seemed quite able to move forward in the future. After a delicious lunch served in the restaurant we moved on to the next winery.
Vignoble Domaine Cotes d'Ardoise
The oldest winery in Quebec is Vignoble Domaine Cotes d'Ardoise founded in 1980 with the first plantings in 1981 with Marechal Foch, Seyval Blanc and Pinot Noir. Further plantings followed with Chardonnay, Gamay, and more Pinot Noir. The winery was a trail blazer since when it was established there were no rules or regulations to cover the growing, marketing and selling of wine products in Quebec so technically it was illegal. However, common sense prevailed and at a meeting in 1984 a group of government officials showed great surprise at the quality of wine being made. The first licence was issued in 1985 and the first medals awarded to it in 1987.
Today the winery has some 30,000 vines planted on roughly 8 Hectares of land. It produces wines from Gamay Noir, Riesling, Foch de Chaunac, Chelois, Lucy Kullman, Seyval Blanc and Noir, Vidal and Aurore.
The wine products cover a range from Dry white and red to sweet dessert and Sacramental wine made by a Portuguese method of adding alcohol to the grape juice. An icewine is produced as well as a rose icewine made from blending the wines of red and white icewine.
The winery is reputed to have the oldest vines in Quebec with an age of 33 years.
Tour
We were taken on a tour of the facilities by Linda Barabe the Boutique Manager. Here we saw marvellous sculptures from various artists as well as amazing photographs. The art was displayed throughout a self guided tour path and was for sale---some of the objects costing in the thousands of dollars. Vignoble Domaine Cotes d'Ardoise is still trail blazing its path.
With that tour, Roy and I headed for Auberge & Spa West Brome. The hotel was welcome to us as it had spacious rooms, a fine balcony and superb accommodations.
We had a delicious steak dinner courtesy of the hotel and Quebec Tourism.
End of Day Seven
The Eastern Townships of Quebec have already been described as reminiscent of Austria's southern province, Styria. The lovely green mountains and many lakes enable one's spirit to roam at will through the space of fresh air and imagination. That's what I felt looking out at the top of the high mountain hills. The night before I watched the retreating Sun fall behind the mountain's huge bulk. Now the Sun was shining on top of the mountain----its rays reflecting the multi-faceted colours of the huge fold.
Vinoble de La Bauge
We were on our way to Vinoble de La Bauge located in Brigham and not far from the Appalachian Mountains. Here time seem ed to stand still and visions of Ichabod Crane came to mind however it also occurred to me that I soon would be standing on the same spot that was occupied by the Champlain Sea and before that another ocean millions of years ago. "Stand Still" alright. Change is the only unchangeable truth.
The name La Bauge is taken from the original concept of what the winery was to be----a place where wild boars lived or their lair. Initially the winery was going to be a supplier of boar meat to the local people of Brigham and area. In 1987 grapes were planted. The vineyards and a growing menagerie of animals including the original Swedish boars was inherited by the son of Alcide and Ghislaine Naud, Simon, continued in their path. When we visited the winery Simon took us out to the vineyards which now had over 26,000 vines planted. The menagerie of exotic animals had also grown from just boar and cattle to include: Yak, Obelix,Llamas, Emus, Deer, Mountain Goats and Jamaican Goats, exotic cattle etc. He had also introduced experimental vines and made some very special wines. They take agro-tourism to a new level offering guests a chance to experience Nature by visiting these exhibit animals while enjoying a chance to experience the art of viticulture and winemaking.
Wines
Wines range from dry whites made from Seyval Blanc and dry reds made with blends of Chancellor, St. Croix, Sabrevois and Frontenac to sweet and semi sweet wines made from both single and blended wines. The fortified wines are also very excellent.
Vignoble Les Pervenches
We left La Bauge in Brigham and drove over to Les Pervenches in Farnham. This was a unique place in that many of its vines were of vinifera stock. Chardonnay and Zweigelt as well as French Hybrids: Seyval Blanc, Marechal Foch and Frontenac.
The vineyard is not huge but it is certified organic and bio dynamic. The owners, Veronique Hubin and Mark Marler purchased the property and business in 2000 though the property has been in production since 1991.
When we arrived, the netting was just being placed over the Zweigelt Vines to protect them from birds. Veronique and Mark met us and discussed their philosophy of wine in Quebec. They dismiss the idea that grapes of a vinifera calibre cannot grow in this region primarily because they know that good grapes require work and sacrifice as well as the fact that many areas in the Eastern Townships have micro climates that are conducive to the growth of good grapes. They believe that they have it at Pervenches.
Mark took us in to taste some of his wines and I must admit, his Chardonnay was magnificent and his red wine was not far behind. Mark and Veronique did not propound theories or talk a great deal but they just let their wines do the taking for them. The place may not be big but man this is a case where big things come in small packages.
L'Orpailleur
Vignoble del'Orpailleur was our next stop and if Pervenches was small, then l'Orpailleur was gigantic in comparison, This vineyard is one of the oldest in the Eastern Townships and Quebec. The name means gold referring to the prospecting for gold in the many rivers in the Eastern Towns. Dunham. where the winery is located. is a gorgeous area and was known as the centre of wine in Quebec.
We were shown around the large complex which had now over 100,000 vines planted consisting of Seyval Blanc, Seyval Noir, Vidal, De Chaunac, Marechal Foch, Frontenac, Geisenheim and New York Muscat.
The winery is a cornucopia of activities that range from the excellent restaurant and decor to the vast tasting boutique. guided tours, special catering events and the Economuseum which houses written, photographic and physical exhibits depicting the wine trade, wine making and the historical aspect of wine and l'Orpailleur. The name itself reflects a piece of history as it was a name given to the first wine from the first harvest in 1985 by Gilles Vigneault. The name means "Gold Gatherer"!
History
L'Orpailleur was one of the first wineries established in the first township (1845) of Lower Canada. Dunham became closely entwined with wine---being the first to have large vineyards growing in it and the first to win international awards. It is by far the largest winery.
The founders of the winery established ways of "hilling up" areas around the vines thus protecting them from the ravages of winter. They borrowed this technique from vintners in Northern Europe and the then Soviet Union. To many in Canada the method became known as the "Quebec Method" and has been used in new areas such as Ocala Winery in Port Perry and more recently in the region of Prince Edward County of Ontario. Other areas in Nova Scotia, New Brunswick and Prince Edward Island are familiar with this method which has inspired many to proceed with wine making in areas that would otherwise not be productive.
They have a lot to thank the founders of L'Orpailleur who had the conviction and intestinal fortitude to move ahead when others probably told them to stop.
The rest is of course history and l'Orpailleur is still going strong with its various wines ranging from dry white Seyval Blanc to a delicious Rose to an excellent dry Red blend. The other success story is of course Icewine which l'Orpailleur produces from Vidal grapes. It is a challenge being first! The challenge comes from the major risks taken both financially and physically as well as the challenge to maintain success once established with the inevitable competition from late comers. L'Orpailleur it seemed to us had not only met the challenge but seemed quite able to move forward in the future. After a delicious lunch served in the restaurant we moved on to the next winery.
Vignoble Domaine Cotes d'Ardoise
The oldest winery in Quebec is Vignoble Domaine Cotes d'Ardoise founded in 1980 with the first plantings in 1981 with Marechal Foch, Seyval Blanc and Pinot Noir. Further plantings followed with Chardonnay, Gamay, and more Pinot Noir. The winery was a trail blazer since when it was established there were no rules or regulations to cover the growing, marketing and selling of wine products in Quebec so technically it was illegal. However, common sense prevailed and at a meeting in 1984 a group of government officials showed great surprise at the quality of wine being made. The first licence was issued in 1985 and the first medals awarded to it in 1987.
Today the winery has some 30,000 vines planted on roughly 8 Hectares of land. It produces wines from Gamay Noir, Riesling, Foch de Chaunac, Chelois, Lucy Kullman, Seyval Blanc and Noir, Vidal and Aurore.
The wine products cover a range from Dry white and red to sweet dessert and Sacramental wine made by a Portuguese method of adding alcohol to the grape juice. An icewine is produced as well as a rose icewine made from blending the wines of red and white icewine.
The winery is reputed to have the oldest vines in Quebec with an age of 33 years.
Tour
We were taken on a tour of the facilities by Linda Barabe the Boutique Manager. Here we saw marvellous sculptures from various artists as well as amazing photographs. The art was displayed throughout a self guided tour path and was for sale---some of the objects costing in the thousands of dollars. Vignoble Domaine Cotes d'Ardoise is still trail blazing its path.
With that tour, Roy and I headed for Auberge & Spa West Brome. The hotel was welcome to us as it had spacious rooms, a fine balcony and superb accommodations.
We had a delicious steak dinner courtesy of the hotel and Quebec Tourism.
End of Day Seven
posted by Chuck Byers - Wine Consultant | 11:15 AM
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