Name:
Location: Whitby, Ontario, Canada

Born in Malta but in Canada since age 5. Has written three books and presently does several columns about wine and food for various magazines.

Sunday, September 4, 2011

September 2nd: Day Three: Bilodeau Ciderie/Verger,Vignobles du Matin, Les Fromagerie de L'isle d'Orleans, Poissonerie Joseph Pacquet, Place Royale

Back To Orleans!
Back again we went to L'Ile D'Orleans to visit more wineries and several other related vineyards. The first on the agenda was a Ciderie/Verger which made apple cider and different styles of apple wine and icewine as well as having apples for the picking. The Bilodeau Ciderie was that first stop. The family ciderie was the first mill erected in the island of Orleans and is a family run operation. The decor was that of a country theme and the atmosphere----very welcoming.
We were met by Sandra who gave us an escorted tour of the premises. Sandra was cute as a button in her way of expressing herself but she did a great job of it. She showed us the murals on the roof which pertained to various stages of making cider and close to that was the very old press that they used to use to crush the apples.
We then went into the kitchen where her mother and a group of ladies were engaged in making the pastry crusts and fill for apple pies that they were making. The pies looked delicious and I could hardly wait to taste but first we had to try some of the many types of ciders that the Bilodeau family makes. We went over t0 the "bar".
The two three first ciders that we tasted were all Gold Medal winners. The 'Fine Pleasure' was made with maple syrup and seemed an excellent aperitif. The 'Temptation' was just that---a temptation to keep on drinking the refreshing drink made with apple cider and strawberry juice all afternoon. And the 'Fascination' was an apple mistelle with maple syrup.
The Bilodeau family also produce a 'Raspberry Mistelle', a black currant mixed with cider drink called 'Reflections of Black Currant' as well as an ice cider called 'Ice Nectar'. They also produce a cider sparkling wine 'Symphony' in which the secondary fermentation is in the bottle such as they do in Champagne, France. For those who like a light and low alcohol cider there is 'The Little Apple' with 6 percent alcohol.
The fun came when I tasted the cider along with a slice of apple pie. I must admit that I have never tasted apple pie so delicious and with the cider--------perfection!
The cider making is very judicious where the apples are washed carefully, pressed and allowed to sit for three days filter out impurities. Then yeasts are added and fermentation takes place in stainless steel vats much like grape wine.
As mentioned before a sparkling cider is also made as per traditional methods and the iced cider begins its life on the orchard trees where apples are left on the tree until the temperature goes down to a chilling -15 degrees Celsius. The apples are then crushed and fermented. After fermentation the ice apple cider is aged for a year in oak barrels.
In addition to the ciders and apple pie, a number of other products were available at the farm such as a phenomenal apple butter.
I can attest that a visit to the Bilodeau family's business is well worth the trip and it's only 15 minutes from Quebec City.
Vinoble Du Matin
From cider we then went to grape wine in the form a thoroughly charming family. The family Turcotte operates Vignoble du Matin not far from the Bilodeau farm. The vineyard was founded in 1998 on land that has been in the family since 17th Century. A house on the property dates back to that time and though is of great historic significance presently is unoccupied.
The family has 8,000 vines of different varieties planted and make a wide variety of wines which can be tasted on their terrace where the wine can be enjoyed with food. The wines----all good---range from a charming white 'La Barrique', a very nice mid sweet white called 'Le Mi Temps whose citrus, spice and lychee flavours reminded me of a Gewurztraminer, a superb rose 'L'Aube', and a very strong red 'Le Rigolet' made for meat and wild game. Winemaker Marcellin
also makes an outstanding icewine 'Ice Storm'. He also makes two fortified wines which are excellent as well as a sparkling rose.
I found his daughter very charming. Maria Christina is young, attractive and full of 'Joie de Vivre'. We had great fun in doing the initial introduction scene. It was great to see such a close family but soon we had to be off again to visit several other places----one of which was right down the road.
Les Fromages De L'Isle D'Orleans
A special cheese made from recipes that were brought back by French colonists is made at this 'fromagerie'. It was around the 17th Century that residents of the island began to make their own cheese. Up until the late 1970's this type of cheese was still being made but then it disappeared----some say that government regulations prohibited the making of this cheese and thus put an end to it. The cheese however made a comeback in 2004.
Apparently the big hubbub was about the use of pasteurized milk in its usage as well as the use of the equipment. The problem was solved by the isolation of a particular bacteria that gives the cheese its taste. This allowed for the bacteria to be sprayed onto the cheese and doing its good work.
The manufacture of the cheese works this way: The milk is curdled with rennet---adding the ferment that gives the cheese its taste. At this stage the cheese could be considered "Cottage Cheese" and thus sold as such.
Further the cheese is allowed to drain and it is removed from the mould. The cheese which takes on the appearance of a cake is then placed of a mat made from water reeds and dried for several days---being turned several times to allow it to dry well. This type of cheese is sold under the name of "The Doormat" and used for roasting.
Further work on the cheese such as aging for 28 to 30 days and repeated washings with salt water and its moisture being monitored.
The cheese is then washed and scented and is sold as "Refined".
Tasting Ideas
Cottage Cheese
This type of cheese can be used in various styles with caramelized fruit, syrups, bagels with berries, smoked fish and pasta dishes.
Doormat Cheese
Roast in a skillet without fat over medium heat for a couple of minutes on each side and use it for the following:
As is! Or--on phyllo pastry, fruit, salad (mango), burgers, sausage and peppers, other cheeses.
Refined
Have with crusty bread---Yumm!
See A Bit Of The Past
Eating a bit of the great cheese is great but the whole aspect of the tour came alive when we saw the young ladies and their period costumes. One can see a film presentation on the cheeses of America as well as partake in the tasting of cheese and spruce beer. On sale are various products from other areas which would be of interest to Gastronomic and Gourmet alike. This would be a visit well worth the time.
Visit To The Poissonerie!
We left the Fromagerie and proceeded to visit a place where smoked fish were sold. This was the place that Sharon spoke about the Sturgeon and various other fish are sold as smoked delicacies.
I tasted a few and must admit that I did find the taste great but the one thing that stuck in my mind was that Sturgeons in particular are slow growing fish that are not what you would call very common. Why then are the fish being slaughtered. Should they not be protected? I love my fish and will consume copious amounts of smoked salmon when available but-----not at the expense of the species. Sturgeon are not on my eat list!
Back To Quebec City
We sadly left L'Ile D'Orleans for the last time and went back to Quebec City. Sharon thought that we would be interested in seeing Place Royale in old Quebec. Its history dates back to 1608 and Samuel de Champlain. In fact, the foundation of his second house is within its borders as is the famous Notre Dame Des Victoires (Our Lady Of Victories). Marked in a black lined parameter at the front of the church is where Champlain's fur trading post initially was.
About the church---it got its name when Sir William Phipps demanded that Governor General Frontenac surrender. The Governor replied that his only reply would be from the mouths of his cannons. Phipps did attack but was so pestered by the French forces that he fell into the bluff of psychological warfare and never completed the invasion. Another invasion later on also failed and the city was not tested until the battle in 1759. The city inhabitants were so gratified and happy at the victory that they gave it its present name. The original church was built in 1687 was given it name at the defeat of Phipps in 1690 and again in 1711 after the failure of the second invasion by British Admiral Walker. The church was destroyed by Wolfe in 1759 but restored by 1766.
The Place Royale sports several interesting sites. The bust of King Louis Fourteenth still watches over people moving around the square. Erected in 1686, it still looks in great condition----must be in the genes! A large two or three story high wall mural that faces on coming crowds of tourists. It depicts historical figures within a large hotel of sorts----all looking out the windows. Here we also came upon a dedication to the explorer Louis Joliet who with Catholic Priest and Missionary Jacques Marquette, was the first to explore the Mississippi River area.
Then there are the restaurants! We ate at "Le Petit Cochon Dingue" of the "Little Crazy Pig". There was nothing crazy about the lunch we got. Simple and very tasty.
Before we called it a day, we were taken to the Auberge D'Antoine where we visited the famous restaurant "Panache". We also viewed the wine list of "Restaurant Initiale" a very famous restaurant that is one of the very few that is featured with "Relais et Chateaux" a very prestigious and famous hotel/restaurant group. The wine list was very, very good and no one wanted to believe that I had many wines on their list-----in my cellar at home.
The day was a good one but as they say----all good things-----! Tomorrow was to be our last day in Quebec City!
END Of Day Three.