August 31st: Quebec: A Wine Region That Encompasses History, Geography, Cuisine and Culture

Getting Started

The day finally came! Soon Roy and I would board a plane heading for the wine areas of Quebec. I had long wanted to write and film Quebec, referred in the history books as Lower Canada. Quebec is probably the first area in Canada where any attempt to grow grapevines was made by missionaries in the 17th Century. Around the same time, Samuel de Champlain attempted planting vinifera species but found that the grapes were neither resistant to the diseases and/or extreme temperatures and climate that affected them. One thing, the grapevines did live long enough to have an impact on the indigenous grape varieties (vitis ripara) that were living there already. These in fact cross bred with the viniferas to produce some mildly different species.

It was Jacques Cartier in the 16th Century who first eyed the multitude of grapes growing on an island in the St. Lawrence River which he named L'Ile de Bacchus for the Roman god of wine and inebriation. He later changed the name to L'Ile d'Orleans after the Duke of Orleans.

The vitis riparia were small, sharp and not easy to work with but they produce some wine for various uses as jams and even Sacramental wine for communion celebrations. The history of wine in Quebec is the story of a struggle against odds for wine to become an accepted product in Canada. However with the increase in technology as well as new wine making techniques began to produce palatable and food friendly wines out of hybrid vines.

In the 1980's viticulture took an upswing in Quebec and in 1987 the Association des Vignerons du Quebec was formed. A quality assurance approach was created in the form of the Vin du Quebec Certification, which among other things had a guarantee of origin and had the task of obtaining a recognizable specificity for its wines.

In Quebec

We were registered at the Hotel Vieux Quebec, a 45 room hotel that is located within the 18th century walls of the old city. Here one could easily believe that this was old Europe at its best with winding cobblestone streets, old buildings, cafes full of people, top restaurants, shops and bakeries. The area is etched in history and culture. Of course the cuisine was also on the menu so to speak. A short distance away was the Chateau Frontenac and City Hall. Staying at the hotel that was voted "best located hotel in Quebec City" had its advantages. Staying at the location of a World Heritage Site was amazing.

Sharon Frenette

Once settled we were met by stunningly lovely Sharon Frenette. Our guide from Quebec City Tourism was immediately likable and soon we were off to the L'Ile D'Orleans for our first visit to a winery. The ride was full of picturesque scenery with a continuous backdrop of the majestic St. Lawrence River. We came to a suspension bridge known as "Le Pont De L'Ile" which was constructed in 1935. Up until then it was a ferry that provided access to the Isle.

Once across, I could see that this was going to be one interesting venture. From a distance I could see Montmorency Falls----a very impressive 275 foot high waterfall some 98 feet higher than Niagara Falls. Not far from it was the Voile de la Mariee Falls which was the site of a sad happening, according to legend, of a bride that was left standing at the alter by her soldier husband to be. Wanting to find out what happened to him she searched the area only to find his dead body due to a military altercation. In anguish, she jumped off the falls to her death. It is said that on a clear moonlit night, those pure in heart can see the ghost of the bride to be standing at the top of this waterfalls.

About L'Ile D'Orleans

This scenic isle is a hub of agricultural treasures. Here new technology combines with old world knowledge to produces some of the finest fruits, berries, plants, vines anywhere. Combined with a natural beauty the is unsurpassed, a historic accent that enlivens the imagination and a cuisine that is to die for, this area seems to offer both locals and visitors much to appreciate. Sharon had a vast knowledge of the area and what impressed me the most was that she also knew and could combine the present with the past to bring about a unique historical perspective.

Vignoble Ste Petronille

Our first visit was to Vignoble Ste Petronille. The area was settled as a mission by the Jesuits in the 1650's and was used by General Wolfe as a headquarters. In 1870 the parish was formed and named after Saint Petronilla who was a Roman martyr. This village has many fine old cottages-------some founded by the British after the Battle of the Plains of Abraham in 1759.

Here we visited with Nathalie Lane who owns the winery along with Louis Denault. Having the winery for almost 21 years, they have produced some exceptional wines. Nathalie mentioned that the climate was not good for certain grapes to grow. So the concentration was on grapes that could mature within the time frame of a shorter growing period. What they have done is excellent and tasting their wines, it seems that they have found their niche.

We tasted a white wine called "Viole de la Mariee" which had a pleasant and refreshing taste. The Vidal and Vandal-Cliche grapes which are a cross of a cross. (Vandal 63 which is a Prince of Wales and riparia cross and Vandal 163 which is an Aurore and Chancellor cross). The Vandal-Clicher are hardy vines can resist temperatures of -35 Centigrade and are earlier maturing grape variety. The wine was citrus/floral in nose and flavour with a refreshing acidity.

"Reserve du bout de l'ile" had the just Vandal-Cliche. Barrel aging gave the wine a sweeter taste from the oak and more complexity with essence of vanilla and toast in the flavours. "Cuvee Ste Petronille" was a red wine made from St-Croix, Sabrevois and Baco Noir. The wine which I thought could use more aging was indicative of a good food wine and one that aging could assist. It showed good sugar and acidity that was fresh and lively. "Vandal--Vin de Glace" showed immediate appeal with peach, apricot and sweet fruit flavours. Picked under perfect conditions with grapes that were ideal for the area, this will be a shining achievement for this vineyard.

I also enjoyed "Insula" an aperitif Mistelle made from grape juice fortified with brandy.

While the vineyard does not have the length of season that may be available in other wine regions, I think that they have done great work with what they have and from what I could see of the scenery, healthy vines, visitors and the boutique---they have a great deal.

Down Through L'Ile D' Orleans

We were then taken down through the island and looked at the sites of the isle. Many of the cottages that were definitely British by design and houses with bright red and pastel roofs that were actually quite pretty. I recall thinking that many reminded me of Laura Berry paintings with their bright colours and style. The houses and roofs were patterned after the houses found in France and have kept up the architectural image.

The history of the island jumped out almost everywhere we went for example in the Village of Saint-Laurent, a group of New England Rangers under General Wolfe came upon the Church of Saint-Laurent to find a note made out to the "The Worthy Officers of the British Army" by the Parish Priest asking them to protect his church and home. It seems that they were so moved by this note that they honoured the note.

We passed by many types of farms some that produced strawberries and others lavender and still others asparagus, raspberries, apples, pears and currants. The island was a wealth of agriculture.

I was thoroughly impressed with the diversity of products on this scenic place.

Back To Hotel Vieux Quebec and Dinner At Entrecote Saint-Jean.

Sharon took us back to the hotel and we prepared for a meeting with Mr. Richard Seguin of Quebec City Tourism. We met him in the lobby of the hotel at 7 PM and proceeded to walk up the street of rue Saint-Jean until we came to the restaurant Entrecote Saint-Jean. The restaurant reminded me of a Parisian Cafe/Bistro and was obviously very good since it was quite full of happy guests----on a Wednesday.

Richard was a handsome, quite slim man with a very mild mannered and pleasant disposition. He seemed to be one who was as the French would say---full of "Joie-Vivre" or "Joy of Life". He said that he was not a native Quebec City dweller but came for one week and ended up staying for over 27 years. We discussed our itinerary and what we had planned to do regarding the filming of the area and then ordered a delicious meal of "Cream of Celery Soup, Steak and Fries" along with a bottle of -----what else?-----Quebec Wine. We picked "L'Orpailleur Rouge" a wine from the Eastern Townships that went very well with the food.

I liked Richard and enjoyed his company. I was sorry to see the evening end. However, all good things------! The night ended and back we went to the hotel. It was the only time that we were to spend with Richard which was unfortunate since he was a most friendly and kind person.

The rest of the night was spent planning for the next day which I was sure, was going to be a very busy day.

End of First Day