Frosty Icewine Harvest At Inniskillin Winery Done Early In The Morning

The Call
Tuesday, January third, was a regular day as I worked on an assignment for "This Week", one of Metroland's (TorStar) local newspaper/magazines. The call came just as I was completing the rough draft of the article.
"Chuck? Debi Pratt! Just wanted to tell you that Bruce (Nicholson) has decided to do the Icewine harvest tonight as it is expected to go down to minus thirteen and he likes the grapes well frozen!"
Deborah Pratt is the Media Relations Manager/Director for Inniskillin Wines and had promised to contact me in relation to their Ice wine harvest as soon as the word came from the Chief Winemaker, Bruce Nicholson.
Picking Icewine grapes is one of those things that can be "iffy" when the temperatures fluctuate as much as they had been the previous days. Daytime "highs" close to the +10 degrees Celsius degree mark were not conducive to picking grapes that were especially left on the vines to be picked at a temperature of at least -8 degrees Celsius----preferably for at least three consecutive days. We had a couple of quite cold days and that evening the temperature was supposed to plummet to at least -13 degrees or colder. To make sure, they were going to pick at the ungodly hour of One AM! Would we like to come?
Since the whole purpose of our visit was to film the picking of the grapes, that time in the morning would not be suitable for getting good visuals (thank God!) and since the romanticism
of Icewine picking by mechanical harvester did not do the trick for me, I opted to choose a much more hospitable (and much more visual) time of getting there by seven thirty AM. Even so we had to leave by five AM to arrive in time to start filming.
Cold Filming
Roy and I were off dark and early and managed to get there on time with about ten minutes to spare. The winery was basically deserted with the exception of the harvest crew which were bringing over containers filled with frozen Vidal grapes freshly brought from the Montague and Woerthle vineyards (both vineyards are part of the newer Four Mile Creek Sub-Appellation) over to the destemmer crusher which ironically did not need to destem the grapes since the mechanical harvesters were not only quick in their picking of the grapes but also left most of the stems on the vines while the berries were shaken into the containers.
Debi stated that "Bruce actually waited until he felt the weather was at its coldest and that the grapes were all frozen." At -11 and -13 I guess they would be.
The berries went from the crusher to cylindrical containers which in turn were taken to pneumatic presses that pressed the grapes----their juice running into a catch basin flowing into storage containers. This was all done outside while the temperature was still -7 degrees.
Mechanical Harvesters
The romantic notion of freezing one's hands (as well as other very special and sensitive parts of the body) while picking grapes in the dead of night during the equally dead of winter only lasts until that first frost bitten finger tip and/or bit of snow/ice melts one's boot! Then the reality hits and the word "insanity" comes to the fore!
Mechanical Harvesters not only do the work of a multitude of people but in the dark of night and being insensitive to pain or cold, they also do a better job. Looking at the grapes in the containers. the harvesters completed all the vineyards in one night under pretty optimum conditions.
Tasting The Juice
Debi brought over several glasses so we could taste the freshly pressed juice. Bruce commented:
"I am very pleased with these levels of concentration. We have 39 Briks!" (One Brik is equal to one gram of sugar per 100 gram solution and is a measure of sweetness). The juice was indeed very sweet-----almost like a liqueur itself. I was imagining how it would taste as a fully fledged Icewine.
The filming sequences went well and we managed (just barely) to keep out of the way of the forklift trucks transporting the containers back and forth while doing our interviews. we were later escorted by Debi to the staff lounge for a much needed coffee and snacks.
Since it was still morning we took our closeness to Niagara-on-the-Lake to head down to head down to Jackson-Triggs Winery and take have a quick visit with Del Rollo, Stacey Mulholland and Jen Cowan having a delicious breakfast at the Little Red Rooster Restaurant.
We ate and then hightailed it home arriving around one PM!
Inniskillin Icewine
Inniskillin Icewine has long been recognized as one of the World's greatest wines. The original event that put this wine on the world map was in 1991 when the Inniskillin Vidal Icewine won the best of show Platinum Medal in Bordeaux beating out many of the World's iconic sweet wines such as the famed Chateau d'Yquem. The original co-founders Dr. Donald Ziraldo and Dr. Karl Kaiser have now achieved legendary status among Canadian and World wine enthusiasts.
Award winning winemaker Bruce Nicholson is now taking their efforts to new heights.
Dr. Ziraldo has become a Canadian Ambassador of wine as well as a world class consultant.

Tuesday October 11th: Return To Prince Edward County----The Harvest Route!

The Gang Together Once Again
Roy picked me up early on that Tuesday morning and we headed to Oshawa to pick up Sandie Kraft. It would be good to have the three of us together again after such a long hiatus with Roy and I exploring Quebec and Prince Edward Island by ourselves. As we drove up to the "Shake Shingled" house Sandie stuck out her head saying it would be a couple of minutes.
Within a brief period of time, out she came sporting a very "Autumn" coloured outfit that looked very good on her. Her long blond hair and white skin was certainly complimented by the golden browns and yellows in her outfit.
Bright and quite lively for that time in the morning, she made it seem like we had never been apart. Off the three of us went to the 401 east to Prince Edward County. Our first stop was at The Grange of Prince Edward County and a meeting with beautiful owner, Caroline Granger. Caroline was busy with harvest but was gracious enough to meet us in the vineyards and allow us to shoot the grape picking.
The Grange of Prince Edward Island
"My father named the place the Grange as part of a play with words!" Caroline Granger stated as we were standing amidst the mature, sweet Gamay Noir grapes that were being picked by the Mexican vineyard workers.
"The Grange was a farm and the workers of the farm were called "Grangers" so since our name was Granger we called this farm/winery: The Grange." At the time I also noted that the word "Grange" had its origins from the Latin word for "grain". Regardless of the meaning, it was evident that the name used for the winery was exceptionally well chosen.
The farm's history went back to the beginning of the 19th Century with the barn that now houses the winery and boutique being built in 1826. Caroline's father, Robert, purchased the property and it was thus named.
Caroline has always had her finger on the pulse of every aspect of this winery in addition she was elected as a director and Secretary of the Executive Committee of the Wine Council of Ontario and a director of the Canadian Vintners Association. One of her pet projects has been the "Harvestin' The County Program" which promoted local sustainable agriculture and local consumption. Caroline has also been known for her almost single handed and tireless efforts to have the area given a Designated Viticultural Area status which happened in 2007.
It has never ceased to amaze me what this former Ford model has accomplished in her still short lifetime.
Victoria Block
The Gamay Vines bore sweet succulent fruit with large berries. They were ripe and ready to make their way to the wine baskets once cut by the adept Mexican wine harvesters who come here from their country as part of a federally sponsored migrant workers program. These guys were fast. Sandie tried her hand at it and proved good but no match for the pros.
Boutique
Back at the boutique inside the old barn Sandie did a great "one on one" interview with Caroline where they tasted and discussed a new wine called "Paint The Town Red"! It was obviously a wine made to capitalize on the new wines that have come out similar to "Girls Night Out", "Strut" and "Open" but with a difference since it is carrying on a brand name "Trumpour's Mill" but with a byline of "Paint Your Town Red". The wine is Gamay Noir from the very grapes that we were watching being picked. It is light, easy but with great flavour. Another wine tasted was a late harvest Sauvignon Blanc which at thirty brix sweetness was not your average Sauvignon. A "Brix" is a sugar level measurement used by winemakers. It is the sugar content in an aqueous solution. Scientifically speaking one brix is the measure of one gram of sucrose per 100 grams of the solution.
Caroline called it "Lemonade" since it was a specialty with the intent of not to repeat. However, intended or not, it was almost sold out. The taste was superb and I would wish that similar "quirks" could be repeated--------often!
The visit went well. We found out that the Pinot Noir had already been picked and next on the agenda were the Cabernet Franc and Pinot Gris.
Weather worry were primary on most peoples' minds since the following day (Wednesday) rain was supposed to rear its ugly head. The rest of the week was supposed to be a "write off".
Rain at harvest produces a number of problems mainly that the grapes absorb water and become saturated with liquid plus the drops of water may not amount to much on a single grape but multiply that by thousands of berries and then you have a water problem on hand. Then there are the possibilities of mold and other moisture related maladies that may set in on grapes that are not picked. The worries are endless.
Looking out the window at the vineyard that stretched out for acres and of course that wonderful sunshine, everything seemed so good. I crossed my fingers as we said our good-byes and went on to our next destination.
Casa-Dea Estate Winery
We were met at the at the front door of the magnificent estate winery of the above name. Paul had just finished using the crusher/destemmer with the freshly picked Pinot Noir and placed the crushed grape must into big holding tanks or vats to ferment. Contact with the skins of the grapes was essential to colour and flavour. However, carbon dioxide forming as a result of the chemical fermentation brought the skins to the surface. Using a specialized tool called the "plunger" a rectangular flat board with a handle that acted as a press of sorts on the liquid, he was about to "plunge" the "grape cap" down to ensure that the skins which were buoyed up to the surface via carbon dioxide gas, kept in contact with rest of the fermenting liquid.
Balancing himself precariously on the edges of the holding tanks (vats) he would take hold of the handle and push the flat board down into the liquid right to the bottom and then back up. He repeated the procedure until certain that the mix was done correctly. The main "trick" was to "plunge" the "wine skin cap" down without making a splash or else grape juice would be sprayed all over the area and clothes. (Right Sandie: "It's not so easy is it Mr. Byers!!!!")
Both Sandie and I tried the task and could appreciate the size of the task at hand considering that he had so many to do. No wonder he was in such great shape.
Paul then took us up to the boutique where Paul did what he liked best----showing off his wines. I found that his Pinot Noir to be a great as ever as did Sandie. Cabernet Franc and Paul's pride and joy---the Pinot Gris were super also. I have always had a penchant for his Pinot.
With the tasting done, we drove down the road for a brief visit at Norman Hardie Wines.
Norman Hardie Winery
Norman Hardie experienced much in his journey with wine. He has gone to wine regions all over the world and worked with the legends of winemaking. Bringing this experience to Prince Edward County, he has culminated all these experiences into award winning wines. The challenge was great but so were the rewards. His wines have become much sought after especially his Pinot Noirs and Melon de Bourgogne.
When we arrived (unexpected) Norm was on the phone but joined us very shortly. I always found him very hospitable even when he was obviously busy and tired such as he seemed the day of our visit.
We discussed the season that had just passed and while Norm admitted that it was a challenging one, he also stated that challenging years many times produce wines that are better than those years that are ideal. "We are more caring for the vines, selective with the grapes and work harder to produce a better wine thus we achieve a better product."
I recalled the old saying that one cannot make good wines out of bad grapes but one can make bad wine out of good grapes and applied it to this scenario and concluded that the caring of the vines and selection must have worked well since the grapes in the vats looked very healthy and with good sugar. The myriad of wasps around the vats also made me think that these "hive bombers" agreed with me.
We did not stay long at Norman Hardie as we were somewhat expected at By Chadsey's Cairns and I wanted to get some shots of the cemetery and also of them picking grapes. So we were off to our last winery of the day.
By Chadsey's Cairns
The Sun was favourable when we filmed the scene at By Chadsey's Cemetery Plot. Here grave stones dating back to the late 18th Century were still visible. Of course the time of year, the leaves falling from coloured trees, the black birds on the trees all gave a feeling somewhat like that of an Edger Allen Poe story. It was ideal for what I had in mind. By now I would think that I retold the tale of Ira Chadsey and his reincarnation story many times but truthfully I never get tired of it. The story went something like this:
Ira Chadsey was born in 1823 and raised on the property eventually inheriting all of it. He was a bit (a bit!!!!) eccentric and believed that he would some day be reincarnated after death and come back as a white horse. To make sure that he could find his way home, he piled a series of stones leading to the settlement. These cairns were to guide him (as a horse) home. To add more intrigue to the situation, Ira committed suicide several years after his wife died in 1898. he so planned it that he shot himself in such a way as to fall into a huge fire that he had started. It is said that there was nothing left of him and that the only thing that was found the next day was the metal barrel of the gun he used to kill himself with.
The story does not completely end there. Some years later either in the late 1940's or early '50's, a white horse escaped from a local barn and found its way to the Chadsey property. Local residents were somewhat unnerved to see the stallion running through the old estate------they thought it was Ira returning. Interestingly enough the story does not say who actually owned the horse that got away------maybe Ira did get his wish.
Richard Johnston of By Chadsey's Cairns is an amazing fellow. This former politician (MPP) and academic (Council of Regents, Trent University Board of Directors and Pres. Centennial College), native issues (First Nation's Technical Institute). In spite of his acclaim, Richard is a very easy person to talk to and one can only surmise that this accomplished man is happiest by just being himself around those he likes.
Prior to meeting Richard, we did a few scenes on the back deck of the wine tasting boutique where the ambiance was perfect. Richard met us there and we got directions to the site where a group of persons were picking grapes----- Gamay to be exact. Richard went on ahead.
We drove the van over to the harvest site where we found Richard in a kneeling position with a cluster of Gamay in his hand. He inspected every cluster and carefully picked off parts that were not suitable. "You don't want anything but the best part of the grape to be used," he said, "so I make sure that only healthy parts of the cluster go into the basket."
Roy did some general shots and then it was time to leave. The day was fruitful and we accomplished much. I sometimes wonder what keeps me going to these same spots and filming things that I had seen so many years in a row. The answer was actually supplied by Roy who remarked, " We always come out of a shoot with something different----something that we never filmed before-----that's so cool!!!"
I realized that he was so very correct. Things may be similar but in reality they never are the same. New things kept on happening and that is what I loved about this business. It is always surrounded by an aura of discovery!!!

September 22nd Day Eight: Breakfast and Voyage Home

Breakfast With Sebastian
It was a sad departure from the place that I called "Home" for over seven days. Platter House would forever be in my memories as one of the nicest experiences in my travels for three reasons. The first was that I actually stayed in one place more than one night. It was such a relief to have a place that I was familiar with and not to have to pack and unpack my clothes on a constant basis. The second was that I could leave my work on a table and go back to it without having to organize my "desk" every day. Most of all, the third and most important was that I simply fell in love with the building, the area, the sea, the birds, the tranquility, the smell, the silence------everything that was the Platter House. My whole hearted recommendation to anyone who is going to PEI for a visit is to check out this place. You will never be sorry!!!!!
Roy and I left the house around 8 AM to meet Paul Knox just outside of Charlottetown. Paul was going to drive and we follow to a restaurant where we were to meet Sebastian Manago for a final breakfast. We arrived in plenty of time to take a few pictures including one of me talking to a seated statue of John A. MacDonald. Funny!!!!!
We met with Sebastian and discussed the trip. The trip was amazing and Prince Edward Island certainly is one of Canada's beauty spots. The great things we saw and did would forever be remembered by both Roy and me. Sadly we only got six hours of footage compared to the 14 hours in Austria and Quebec but the footage was good and usable. Sebastian Manago deserves a great deal of credit for helping us achieve this goal and I will forever be indebted to him and the Government of Prince Edward Island.
Shortly before 9:30 AM Tara Jackson met us and we drove to the airport. Saying good-bye is never a pleasant thing because one never knows if future meetings will happen but in this case I knew that I would be in contact with Tara, Paul, Jan and Sebastian as well as Ken, Julie, Lynn, John, Mike, Sterling, Perry, Lucas, Melvin and all the others I met and made such friendship with.
We departed for Toronto at 12 Noon on September 22nd and somehow I left Prince Edward Island not feeling that I was from "Away" but from "Here"!
End Of Day Eight and Tour

September 21st Day Seven: Last Full Day In Prince Edward Island

Off To PE Distillery

It was early in the morning when PEI Tourism representative Paul Knox picked us up at the Platter House. Tara Jackson was tied up with some work and he replaced her. Enthusiastic and full of excellent suggestions, Paul seem to be a veritable "go-getter" with an seemingly endless set of ideas. We were off to Prince Edward Distillery in Hermanville, not very far from where we were staying.
Owner/Distiller Julie Shore had a disarming smile that wouldn't quit. She greeted us like long lost friends making it difficult not to feel that we knew each other for years. I'm sure the others felt the same way. Julie and her partner Arla (who was away at the time) came up from North Carolina and decided to found a distillery based on potatoes.
They soon were making Potato Vodka and came up with the idea of making a vodka from wild blueberries. The result was that in 2009 their Potato Vodka won the Gold Medal at the San Francisco World Spirits Competition and the Blueberry Vodka won the Silver Medal at the United Kingdom International Spirits Challenge.
Julie gave us a tour which revealed a very complicated and impressive looking Column Still and then showed us the aging equipment and explained the process of making highly refined Vodka.
The tour ended with a small sampling of the product. I enjoyed meeting Julie and left feeling good that such people exist such as Ken Mill of Myriad View and Julie Shore of PE Distillery. Good stuff and both great products.
Prince Edward Island Railway
Construction of the Prince Edward Island Railway started in 1871, my guess as part of the plan for P.E.I.'s entrance into Confederation in 1873. On entry into Canada, the railway came under government control and later became part of the Canadian National Railway (CNR). The railway served many purposes and was continually upgraded. Cars, trucks and even airplanes eventually proved the demise of the railway which was "abandoned" in 1989 and dismantled in the early nineties. In 1994 the government purchased the existing land that was used for the railway, making recreational trails and paths along the former rail spots.
Elmira Railway Museum
In 1975 the Elmira Station/Railway Museum was opened. A number of stations in P.E.I. are being restored for posterity though many of the stations and rail way cars have been scrapped. Lynn Morrow, Manager of the Elmira Train Station Museum, mention that there were seven such restoration sites in the Province.
The original train station had five railway spurs, a coal shed, barn, bunkhouse and separate waiting rooms for men and women. Only the wooden station house with its telegraph and separate rooms had been restored.
The restoration had many attractions and artifacts dating back to "railway life' in the 19th and early 20th centuries. A model train ran around a model Prince Edward Island depicting the extent of the PEI Railway. A portion of the actual track was on display as were items such as telegraphs, clothing, utensils etc. People could sit on he platform and wait for a train that would never show up but they would get an idea of how it felt in those days and try to imagine what the railway meant as a form of transport before autos and planes took over. It was a slower time but not necessarily an inferior time.
Known as the "end of the line" Elmira's tracks have become another kind of track but now it's for recreation with some 23 kilometres of hiking, biking and sight seeing trails known as the Confederation Trail. The Elmira Station has become regarded as the gateway to this "Rails to Trails" system with a "Track's End Takeout" restaurant located next to the station present for those travelers needing sustenance after a hard afternoon of biking or hiking.
The station also has a gift shop and restroom facilities but note----be careful---I understand from very good sources that a "witch" has been spotted in that little room -----probably making sure that visitors do not have a "ghost" of a chance in forgetting their Elmira Train Station Museum experience. The train station will be holding it's 100th birthday in 2012. I wish it luck for the next 100 years. Thanks to Lynn Morrow for her great tour and information.
Tuna Capital Of The World
We made our way to the North Lake Harbour, which is known as the Tuna Capital of the World. North Lake is situated in a sheltered inlet in the Northeastern part of Prince Edward Island where tuna boats can seek refuge from the Gulf of St. Lawrence. There were no tuna coming in that day, though the boats were out---no one called in with a catch but this is where the tuna were brought and considering some could be over 1000 lbs in weight, it did not take much to come in with a catch. Tuna are caught with rod and reel and there are limitations to how many can be caught. Paul suggested that we go to lunch and then go back later.
Lunch at Sandstone
Paul took us to the Sandstone Restaurant situated overlooking the water of North Lake.
The restaurant was an amazingly nicely decorated and very clean. The food on other tables looked great. I ordered "Scallops on a Bun" along with a chowder while Roy ordered a "Lobster Sandwich". Paul ordered "Fish and Chips" but when the meal came out it was apparent that the fish being served was the size of one huge fish!!!! Paul could not finish it.
After lunch we contacted North Lake Harbour but no fish were coming in as yet so we decided to move on to the Eastpoint Lighthouse and the Pirate's Galley Cafe!
Eastpoint Lighthouse and Pirate's Galley Cafe
The area around Eastpoint is said to be very difficult to navigate with the "meeting of three tides" (being the Atlantic, Northumberland Strait and Gulf of St. Lawrence) and "three reefs" just off the point. In 1883, the lighthouse was actually moved to a location which was more appropriate after a British War Vessel ran aground following erroneous charts the year prior.
The lighthouse was constructed in 1867 and was 64 feet high (19.5 metres).
Next to the Eastpoint Lighthouse was the Pirate's Galley Cafe which was a restaurant with a twist.
Owned by Don Spear, this restaurant/cafe was famous not only for its food and delicious chowder but also for Don's recanting of old ghost stories. For example there is the tale of the burning ship.
The three masted ship is often seen off the coasts of Prince Edward Island and Nova Scotia usually in October in the Northumberland Strait. One account had it that one clear night a person was walking on the shore of Prince Edward Island's Northumberland Strait when he spotted a burning ship of which he could make out its three masts and outline. He watched it for twenty minutes and then it disappeared. On another occasion, some men tried to get to the ship but it vanished completely before they could get to it.
The restaurant's owner went on to tell of pirate history in the area and of how pirates used to wait for shipping to come around the point and then attack. He said that the likes of Blackbeard, Bluebeard and Captain Kidd were familiar with P.E.I.'s waters and some made their homes in the area.
Whether you believe in ghosts and ghost ships or not, these incidents did happen and while explainable in one way or another, they are intriguing.
Basin Head "Singing Sands" Beach and Fisheries Museum
The beach harbours some intriguing "exhibits" one of which was the "Singing Sands" which seem to produce a singing sound as one walked on it. The sound is not fully explainable but is said to be attributed to a reaction of the quartz sand on the feet and on the other sand much like the rim of a glass when rubbed with a wet finger. The Fisheries Museum focused on the fishing industry and its evolvement during the ages. It had exhibits and artifacts as well as video demonstrations concerning P.E.I.'s fishing lifeline.
With that, Paul Knox took us back home to the Platter House where we would spend one more night and then be off to Ontario.
We did have some surprise visits and both were welcome. Ken Mill popped in and while he could not imbibe as he was on duty (on call with the Coast Guard) he did have a coffee and a bite to eat with us. We also had a visit from Melvin Ford who was taking care of Platter House. Nice way to say good-bye.
End Of Day Seven

September 20th Day Six: More Winery Visits and Deep Sea Fishing

Lovely Morning
In Italy I would wake up and marvel at the view from the top of Castelrotto, a high hill overlooking the valleys that make up Valpolicella. I have stayed in lovely Umbria where mornings sounded with the enchanting calls of song birds and a view that would speed up any heart. I have seen the mountain hills of Portugal's Douro region and the splendor of Styria in Austria. Added to this list of hypnotic beauty was the mystical and peaceful view that I would wake up to at the Platter House in Souris. Prince Edward Island. Everyone on a trip takes something with them wherever they go. For me it was this memory of mornings----and evenings at Platter House.
Hemingway had his Loire Valley in France....... I had my Platter House. Energized after a few minutes of meditation overlooking the dock and the water, I went into the building and soon Roy and I were off to our first visit.
Percy Hill, Montegue
The name Montegue is derived from the Montegue River which, in turn inherited from George Brudenell (later Montegu after 1st Duke of Montegu). The area has a claim to fame for being the first to have both a Wendy's and Tim Horton's cohabit in the same location. Apparently, the executives of both enterprises met and immediately liked each other and the rest is history. Percy Hill is the name of a cottage that is rented out to various individuals for private use. It lies atop a gorgeous hill with a view that rivals many resorts. The 3000 square foot cottage came with all amenities such as closeness to recreational facilities, view, Internet, television, 1.5 baths, four bedrooms and much more. I was very impressed at the location and the building but that was not why I was up there for. I was up there to see a new little vineyard just planted this year.
To my astonishment, the vines looked over one year old already and in top notch health. The vineyard was one of hybrid varieties which would do very well with the southern slope and excellent spacing. Apparently, a retired person was coming in on a regular basis and keeping the vines spotless. In addition a five foot brick wall that stretched about sixty feet along the width of the vineyard acted as a barrier for winter months.
I had brought a Sauvignon Blanc vine with me just to try out. The vine from Ontario had a full root system and was planted right next to the wall which also served to collect heat and keep it during cool evenings. With the heavy snowfall that PEI winters get and with the warmer weather (though this year was abysmal) that the changing climate seems to be bringing, it may survive if given tender loving care.
Rossignol Vineyard
Soon we were off and away from Percy Hill and were off to Rossignol Vineyard in an area called Little Sands just South West of Murray River. The vineyard overlooks the Northumberland Strait and the combination of vineyard and water makes a great looking view. We met John Rossignol at the front of his building and he showed us his vineyards of Lucy Kuhlman, Marechal Foch, Seyval Blanc, Minnesota 78, Valient (which suffered a bit from salt spray and will be replaced) and Muscat grapes.
The wine boutique also served to show some excellent artwork as well as "knacks" that one could buy and take home. Sculptures out front depicted various forms of wine enjoyment and a Pagoda in the vineyard seemed a very relaxing place to "escape into one's own thoughts".
We tasted John's wines and found all his blends, varietals and fruit wines delicious.
As I looked upon what John had accomplished, I thought to myself that it must have been both courageous and very hard/risky to be first. There were those probably with too eager a finger to point and say "see we knew you couldn't do it" or the others would come after and say "we don't like your stuff---why bother!" John probably heard it all but kept on going. Congratulations to a true pioneer who had the guts and fortitude to move ahead and keeps on going. Nice job! Nice Winery! Great Guy!
Lunch At Brehault's
We dropped in at Brehault's Restaurant and ordered some bites to eat. Food was good and the coffee was great. We then went over to visit a Bed and Breakfast called My Father's House which I had included in my book "Rendezvous For Dinner" in 2006. Unfortunately, Joe its proprietor was not there and did not return while we were in Murray Harbour so I missed him. I did talk to his wife however and I relayed a message to him.
Newman Estate Winery
Michael Newman is only 30 years old but his vineyard and ten acre winery in Murray River was full of activity. Mike was busy working on his vineyard, bottling his blueberry wine, building his almost 3000 square foot home/boutique/winery and if that was not enough, making plans for future expansion. The man was on a mission and I was so surprised that he was not overwhelmed. His lovely girlfriend Christie along with Mike's twin brother, Rob, were there to lend a hand. Rob was invaluable to Mike in his work around the winery and Christie was excellent as a host.
On the ten acre plot which is reputed to have the warmest temps in PEI, he grows Marechal Foch, Lucy Kuhlman with plans for Vidal and Seyval Blanc. At the time of the visit he was bottling his blueberry wine. Each bottle was hand labeled and painted. The wine was not the cloying blueberry that many make but a medium dry, medium to full bodied wine reminiscent of Merlot with nice berry and chocolate. It was a good wine and with that experience I could hardly wait for a future tasting of his grape wines. His vines were healthy though needed to be tied and pruned somewhat but his strength is time itself and he is young with good friends to help.
The young man was full of dreams and positive energy and what is important, he was shopping for ideas and seriously listening. Older than his years dictated, he definitely was a man with a mission.
We tasted his wine with some hor d'oeuvres and it went well with cheese, oysters and other combinations. We were given a tour of his winery and though spartan, it was in excellent condition. My only observation is that Michael was doing so many things at one time that he may in fact at some point become overwhelmed. Somehow, I was also sure that he probably had the resources to handle it and handle it well. Job well done Michael!
With Newman Estate Winery ended our visit to the wineries for that day but we had something truly special coming up and that was a visit and tour with Tranquility Cove Adventures.
Tranquility Cove Adventures
The minute we drove into Tranquility Cove I knew that this was going to be fun when I met Perry Gotell who was the "skipper" of the tiny ship. His mate Lucas was a mighty sailing man and I liked him too. We all set sail on a deep sea fishing tour----a three hour tour! But here is where the comparison to Gilligan's Island ends. The going did not get rough and the tiny ship did not get lost. A fearless crew they were but we were never in need of help 'cause the water was as smooth as glass and the weather was just fine.
We went out about five miles or so although that was just a guess. I was allowed to take the boat controls and must admit, it was fun. The depth indicator to my right was telling me the depth of the water and a gauge on the same side indicated life such as schools of fish at various depths.
The boat had anything and everything to make us comfortable: food, fruit and soft drinks. On the way we made several stops at points of interest: One was to a Rock Crab trap. Another was to a Mussel sock where live mussels were suspended on mesh like sleeves called "Socks". These socks were anchored to the bottom and gave the mussels a place to grow. The mussels were removed by a brush and the sleeves were reused. We then went to a Lobster Trap but the surprise was on us since the lobsters had broken out of the cage which showed signs of deterioration. I couldn't help feel a bit happy for the lobsters since the alternative could have been a cooking pot and a quick change of colour to Red Lobster.
We kept on heading out past the outer point. The Skipper finally stopped the boat and gave us fishing rods. We were fishing for Makerel! Me, I never had the patience to fish and much of the time, when I did go, I would last maybe half an hour at best. Roy on the other hand loved the whole idea of fishing and took to this like a ----well-----fish does to water!! The first catch was made by Skipper, followed by Lucas and Roy. The pattern remained until I exchanged ends with the Skipper. I then started catching a few but not many. I gave in and called it a fishing day after about an hour or so. Roy on the other hand was the last one to put down the rod.
The funniest thing that happened was while we were fishing and the Skipper was catching some nice sized fish. Every so often a small one would come in and be thrown back by Lucas. The Skipper caught several small ones in a row and then on huge sucker of a fish. Lucas was talking to Roy as the big fish was caught by Skipper. Lucas proceeded to unhook the monster and without realzing what he was doing-----he threw the fish back in!!!! Skipper went into a frenzy and jokingly saying, "Hey boy, what the %#@$ are you doing. You want your pink slip do yah! This was all in fun but I am sure he did not and will not let Lucas forget this for a long time to come.
The trip was a great one and on our way back we roasted some Mackerel on the ship's barbecue which was attached on the side. The fish were great but it was then that I wished I had a bottle of good Chardonnay, Seyval Blanc or L'Acadie Blanc on hand!
Tranquility Cove Adventures had other packages such as "The Cork Adventure" where by landlubbers can see what the life of a Lobster Fisherman's helper (Cork) does from early morn' until about Noonish. "The Highliner Adventure" is similar to the Cork but it includes all you can eat lobster---------"Have ya' ever been to see Billy?"
"The Giant Bar Clam Dig Adventure" is for those who like to visit private deserted islands and swim/snorkel/hunt for clams which are collected and then steamed. Finally for those who love Eagles there is the "Bald Eagle Adventure" where sightings are guaranteed.
The way back was as much fun as going out but the thing I will remember the most is Roy's face as he caught those fish and the Skipper's face when Lucas threw the "Big One" back. As for the experience-----I actually steered the ship for a very long and enjoyable time!!!
By the time we said our good byes to Perry and Lucas, the gravol that I really did not need to take started to take effect (I took three) and shades of the "I Love Lucy" episode on the ferry, I was going down for the count fast. The night was not a long one and the bed was very, very welcoming.
End Of Day Six

September 19th Day Five: Poritz and Matos Winery Visits and Rocky Shore Pemium Seafood

Trip To Historic Clyde River: The Poritz Vineyards
Sydney Poritz was a likable fellow. When Tara, Roy and I drove into his home/vineyard we did not anticipate setting our feet on such hallowed and historical ground. The house he lived in went back some 200 years plus to 1810 and, until 1989 when Sidney purchased the house. Part of the original farm is still owned by the great granddaughter, Doreen Pound still lives with her spouse.
Such history! So much must have happened and so much experienced during those years.
Sydney lived in the house for twenty two years and then about four or five years ago decided to plant a vineyard.
His land sloped down towards the south onto the river and is planted with newer vines on the southern end and progressing to older vines as one moves back and towards the west of the house.
I mentioned that the whole setting reminded me of the Blomidon Winery in Nova Scotia's Annapolis Valley area. The only difference was that the land at Blomidon sloped into salt water where as the influence at the Poritz estate was fresh. The scene otherwise is much the same though the Blomidon vines were much more progressed and older.
The grape varieties raised were Marechal Foch, Marquette, Frontenac, L'Acadie Blanc and Joffre vines.
The one thing that amazed me was that this man was basically doing the work himself and this included his netting which is a tough job to begin with. For a young guy this would be a chore but this man Sydney Portitz was 73 years old. All I could say was God bless him. His enthusiasm, humility and genuineness was inspiring and refreshing to say the least.
Having finished with the Poritz Vineyards we went to visit a completely different winery that was taking significant risks and accepting new challenges.
Matos Winery
In 2007 Jamie and Heather Matos bought 50 acres of land in St. Catherine's (P.E.I.) to plant with vinfera vines bought from Burgundy France. Prior to that Jamie had run a 'Brew Your Own' business and did it well for 20 years. He decided to follow a dream and looked for places to plant a vineyard. He settled on Prince Edward Island and now has vinifera vines growing----some 16,000 of them. He says that his soil is loaded with the best nutrients and that he cares for the vines with TLC (Tender Loving Care) giving them what they need to survive. The Gamay, Chardonnay and Rose. Apart from the Chardonnay being a bit light, the wines were quite palatable. One suggestion I had was to allow the Chardonnay to gain some complexity and reduce acidity by leaving the wine on its lees for a period. Just a suggestion! I am sure that Jamie and Heather know what they want.
The equipment was first class and top of the line. His vines seemed healthy and he used some natural and artificial controls for weeds etc. Jamie stated he had no real insect problems.
Vinifera in Prince Edward Island seemed a risky proposition but I have been proved wrong before and will be very happy to learn that the Matos Winery has had a string of successful vintages. Only time, hard work and good weather will tell the story.
After the winery we headed up to Victoria By The Sea and to the Landmark Cafe. This place used to be a Grocery Store called Craig's Grocery but was turned into a restaurant. The atmosphere had a tinge of the middle-east with some ethnic dishes and music. I had a delicious soup and meat pie. Soon it was time to get on the road and go to the Rocky Shore Premium Seafood company which was also known as the Tong & Shuck.
Here Ted Boutiller showed us how to shuck oysters. i am afraid that I was not that good but Roy seemed a natural. Tara did well also. I sat in the corner waiting for my dunce cap but Erskine Lewis called us out to go on an oyster hunt. Actually, he took us to the oyster beds were and you could see them on the bottom when the boat we were in went over the beds.
They use a natural method of cultivation whereby dime size shells or "Seeds" are placed in the beds which have constant exposure to the tides which results in big, cup shaped shells. These shells remain on the bottom for about three to five years and then they are harvested. Because of the way they are naturally treated, such oysters can withstand being out of water for a period of up to three weeks. In fridges, they tend to hibernate. This means good quality for the consumer.
Collection from the boat was by rake like "Tongs" which look like two rakes facing each other. These tongs are light and open and close via hand/arm manipulation. They "grab" at the oyster bed entrapping groups of oysters from the bottom and are pulled up via the handle of the now closed tong. They are then released into a container and sorted. It was interesting to see that young oysters or seeds can attach themselves to anything that will support them such as mussel shells, rocks or even other oysters.
With oysters now picked, we headed back to land and back to the car. It certainly was interesting and fun. Most of all I enjoyed tasting the fresh oysters. We then drove back to our abode of the week and relaxed with our paperwork.
END OF DAY FIVE

September 18th Day Four: A Delicious Appleicious And A Drive Up The North Cape!

Some Facts About Apples

I never knew that apples were not native to North America. In fact they are an import from the Middle East. The fruit has a history of some 5o0o years and was known in places such as Ancient Greece. Normans brought the apple with them to the British Isles. The French also were responsible for bringing the fruit to Canada in the 17th Century. The rest as they say is history.

Apples have been part of PEI's history for over 150 years. Presently there are seven apple orchards in PEI growing over 40 varieties of apples.

On To Appleicious

Our drive that morning was going to be a long one---about 2 to 3 hours and would take us from Souris on the East Coast of PEI to Arlington on the West Coast. Since our scheduled time was to be around 11:45 AM we needed to hustle and were off on the road by 8:30 AM. The drive was a lovely one and of course took us through Charlottetown. We also made our way through the City of Summerside, Wellington, Richmond and on to Arlington. Though never lost, we did have to stop and get directions to make sure we were on the correct route.

Appleicious

Appleicious is part of the PEI Fall Flavours Festival, a month long culinary celebration which highlighted authentic island tastes and traditions in various communities throughout PEI. The celebrations included guest chefs, culinary tastings and competitions, games, songs and other attractions for both young and old.

Appleicious was held at Arlington Apple Orchards owned by Barry and Carol Balsom. On the property are grown some 31 types of apples plus seven types of plums and four types of pears.

There was some 35 acres with fruit trees close to the protective waters of Malpeque Bay.

The land which covers over 70 Acres has been in family for over 200 years and had gone through various incarnations from wood servicing and ship building.

Fun activities range from full blown events such as Appleicious and The Annual Shriner's Scarecrow Festival to Hay Rides and Farm Days when people come to look around and have fun.

Such things as Scarecrow making contests, pie eating, balloon animal making, face painting and

just plain old sausage and food cooking/tasting takes place. A portion of every thing sold goes to

a charity.

Open every day of the week from September to October and with apples available at various markets in Miscouche (Monahan Street) and Charlottetown (Ellen's Creek Plaza) from August to December. patrons can enjoy their fresh apples on a constant basis.

Guest Celebrities

Guest Celebrities included Chef Lynne Crawford known for her hosting of "Pitchin' In & Restaurant Makeover"for Food Network Canada and "Iron Chef Competition", Chef Crawford is always her humorous and gracious self. She has attracted much attention for her new restaurant "Ruby Watchco" and is the only female to have been crowned with the "Executive Chef" position at the Four Seasons in New York City.

Chef Crawford was a dream of a person and exhibited her gracious manner and humour in an incident when I was interviewing local Durham personality (and Appleicious Moderator) Christian Pritchard.

Coming over to the interview area, she asked to "shoot" the scene. We obliged and Roy gave her some points about the workings of the camera----not that she didn't know! She "shot" us and then turned the camera onto herself. It was fun and of course she graciously spent time with locals who had their pictures take with her. We couldn't resist either!!!!!

Christian and I who have known each other for some time now did a great "serious" interview about what was happening. He flew down every week of the "Fall Favours" month long celebrations and moderated/introduced for such celebs as Chef Curtis Stone, Lynne Crawford, Corbin Thomaszeski, Mark Mckwan and Thomas Moore.

Lennie Gallant a native of Rustico PEI and well recognized as a great songwriter was also on hand with his band. Mr. Gallant had nine albums and many awards including JUNO and East Coast Music Award nominations to his credit. Well known internationally, he had a great welcome at the event.

Also at the event Roy and I heard an opening series of songs by song writer/singer Norman Bowser who was excellent in both word and music. We got his permission to record him on the series.

The event went very well with other interview such as: Chef Jeff McCourt and his assistant Carolyn who gave us a great "Pork Belly" hors oeuvres and caterers "Two Friends Catering" with their delicious mussels and apple pie. The event, cooking, food, entertainment and all that went with it was fun. The only drawback to the whole event was the sneaky and insidious mosquitoes that didn't even have the courtesy of letting you know that they were going to land on your head and bite until you had been bitten. I got a couple but some got away!!!

With the event under our belt we decided to leave and make our way down the North Cape Coastal Drive which offered a unique and picturesque scenery and secluded beaches.

We also took pictures such as the bridge from PEI to Nova Scotia, French Cemetery and various

other landmarks.

We got back to Souris and decided to do some scenic "takes" of the area. First we went to the lighthouse and did a segment on it including mentioning the trawler heading out to catch herring. The lighthouse, a tall (14.3 metres) tapered, red and white building constructed of wood was built in 1880 and preceded the incorporation of Souris (1910). The lighthouse has been the symbol of the area ever since. From its top lookout that people can climb, one could see the Cape Breton Highlands on a clear day.

With the segments done and the day wearing on, we went back to the Platter House and spent a delightful supper and relaxing evening preparing for the next day.

End Of Day Four