Name:
Location: Whitby, Ontario, Canada

Born in Malta but in Canada since age 5. Has written three books and presently does several columns about wine and food for various magazines.

Saturday, August 20, 2011

August 5th Continued: An Interview With Donald Ziraldo

On Taking Chances
I have always had a deep respect for risk takers---especially those who "bit the bullet" and forged ahead when all common sense and "expert advice" suggested otherwise. I know only too well the sleepless nights, the sudden awakenings at 4 am, covered in a cold sweat with that nagging sensation of forbidding doom and the question, "God! What have I gotten myself into?" and that "nowhere to run and/or hide" feeling in the deep gut of the stomach! It happens to all those who go out on a limb----truly where no one normally dares go-----and just hopes that there is enough strength to go on!!!! It is a lonely feeling because the only person experiencing it is the one involved. Expectations are both very high and yet at the same time full of pitfalls. The well wishers are few and those that would take pleasure of saying "I told you so!", many.
Risk takers are a rare breed. They live on the edge yet flourish in the face of adversity. Many fall behind, discouraged and defeated. Others however, reach down and pull up that needed inner fortitude and belief in one's self thus securing success. Donald Ziraldo is one such person. This is why I am dedicating this blog to him.
The Beginnings
No one can provide a formula as to what makes one person great and/or outstanding and what doesn't. In many ways it comes from the blunt decision "to go for it" and "let the chips fall as they may". I don't think for one minute that when Ziraldo was a boy that he said to himself---"Oh, I'm going to make award winning wine some day!" Not so!!!!
Inspiration and ideas come from a number of sources and then funnel down through a form of spout and emerge in a flow of ideas that seem to gel into one, two or even three visionary items.
Donald Ziraldo's vision started in the area of Friuli before he was born.
His father emigrated to Canada from his native Friuli when he was 16 and worked in the Northern Ontario goldmines. He then purchased some land in Niagara and became a fruit farmer. He worked hard, got married and raised a family.
Moving Forward
Some time later, his son, Donald, decided to attend the University of Guelph from which he got a degree in Agronomy in 1971. According to one source, it was after he graduated that he made up his mind to become involved with wine making. The story goes that he was given a gold ring by his mother and it had an etching of grapes on it. He took this to be a sign and the rest is history.
From his contacts in Europe he theorized that specific vinifera vines would do well in the Niagara area. He purchased land in Niagara after graduation and set out planting vines that he obtained from Italy.
The "Destiny" Partnership
A couple of years later he met Karl Kaiser, a chemist with a wine background. Karl came to buy some "European" grapevines from Donald's nursery and struck up a friendship. They became partners and applied for the a winery licence------the first in some 33 years. That was in 1974 and, after many road blocks and advice from detractors, the license came in 1975. Instrumental in getting the license (and suggesting the name) was General George Kitching who was the Chairperson of the LCBO at the time. Inniskillin was born.
A Historic Name
The name was derived from the Inniskilling Fusiliers, an Irish Regiment that fought during the War of 1812-14. fo A grant of Crown Land was given to a certain Colonel Cooper who aptly named it Inniskillin Farm after the Regiment. The name seemed very apropos so the name stuck. The initial winery was no more than a shed which ironically "shed" a light onto a whole new industry.
Inniskillin-----The Winery
Inniskillin became much in demand and in 1978 the winery moved the the present location of the Brae Burn Vineyard location that came complete with an old barn reputed to have been inspired by Frank Lloyd Wright. At one point Inniskillin made headlines on a proposed sale of 600 cases of Inniskillin Marechal Foch to Chauvenet, a French negotiant. Though the sale did not take place because of European guideline requirements, the fact that a French wine company was willing to buy the wines was huge. In addition, because of the consequential block by the European Market of the wines was somewhat of a challenge. The requirement for an appellation to appear on the label in order to enter the "EU" or European Union led Donald to found the Vintners' Quality Alliance (VQA).
Forging Ahead Towards Destiny
The 1980's were a whiz of activity with vineyard purchases in 1982 (Montegue); a successful Icewine harvest in 1984 (the 1983 was eaten by birds) and the founding of Inniskillin Napa in 1989. However, the best and most powerful accolade was to come in 1991.
Up until that time in 1991, the "naysayers" and detractors kept spouting their negatives about Canadian wines in general. When it came to Inniskillin, they basically played down all the efforts as faddish and that they were doomed to failure. At VinExpo in Bordeaux France---the hub of winedom as we then knew it and with the most scrutinizing and self appreciating judges in the World------Inniskillin 1989 Vidal Icewine was chosen as the best of the show winning the Grand Prix d'Honneur. Out of over 4,000 exhibitors, it was the voted best. This neither happened in Canada nor the United States but in what some would call "hostile" territory where "outside wines from the New World were judged harshly.
Inniskillin, Donald Ziraldo and Karl Kaiser, in fact Canada and Ontario were now thrust into the limelight that so many swore would never be achieved by a Canadian wine and wine company.
Continued Growth
Under the guidance of Ziraldo and Kaiser, Inniskillin went on to grow further with Inniskillin Okanagan in 1994 and to win many other awards such as the "Chardonnay du Monde" contest in Burgundy. Many alliances were formed between Inniskillin and companies around the globe such as a joint venture between Jaffelin, Burgundy (purchased by Boisset Famille des Grands Vins) and Inniskillin which eventually led to the purchase of land in Jordan and the creation of Le Clos Jordanne. New products such as a Sparkling Icewine and Donald's book "Anatomy of a Winery" in 2000 celebrated the Millenium. I also remember quite well when Donald Ziraldo introduced the idea of planting special Riesling vines in 2004 with plans to harvest them in 2010 just in time for the Olympics in Vancouver. Insight and foresight with a good hold on hindsight were always part of Ziraldo's itinerary. However as the phrase, "All good things must come to an end!" says, both Karl Kaiser and Donald Ziraldo decided it was time to move on. Kaiser retired and remained on a consultative basis and Donald Ziraldo became involved as an ambassador for the Canadian Wine Industry and a leader in the research for Canadian Wine. In addition, in 2005 he authored a book "Icewine: Extreme Winemaking" to tell the story of Icewine. He also "gave back" by co-chairing the Cool Climate Oenology and Viticulture Institute at Brock University. This continued with his chairing of the Niagara Culinery Insitute. This made sure that the next generation of winemakers, chefs and viticulturists were being trained in Niagara.
Moving On To Future Exploits
Standing still was not in Donald Ziraldo's blood however.
I'm going to add these couple of lines for progression. Donald could give lessons to the "Energizer Bunny"! His newest project started with his appraisal of a Portuguese winery in the Douro Region of Portugal for a friend of his. This "favour" ended up with him being on its Board of Directors. He will be going back to Portugal to oversee the transition of the classified, 37 acre property, which produces Oporto and Douro wines----soon to start the harvest.The winery comes complete with a 12th Century Cisterian Monastery called Sao Pedro dos Aquias, a winery, Quinta do Convento and cellar. Mr. Ziraldo just keeps on going and going!!!!
Many Awards
For his extraordinary contributions to Canadian Wine he was given Canada's highest honours by being awarded "The Order of Canada". This was in 1998. In 1993 he was awarded the Order of Ontario and in 2002 received the "Queen's Golden Jubilee Award"! The National Post voted him "One Of The Top CEO's Of The Century" in 1999. The awards have been many and could have easily filled this blog. He recently took over as Chairman of the Vineland Research Station and that was exactly where I contacted him while Sandie, Roy and me were at Daniel Lenko's and made arrangements for us to visit him where it all started. We had come full circle and in some ways so had Mr. Ziraldo!
Visit With Donald Ziraldo, August 5, 2011
In an interview I did with him back in 2000 We had talked about Inniskillin and its place in the whole scheme of things. Being a man of few words, he said, in soft spoken voice, "No matter where I plan to go or whatever country I visit, my heart will always be at Inniskillin."
We met him at the place where this love affair began almost 40 years ago!!
We drove North down the ultra scenic Niagara Parkway to Side Road 58 and made a left turn down a narrow road that went between two houses. For all intent and purpose it could have easily been a driveway.
The road opened up to a mass of vineyards to the right of us (North) and meandered through a number of vineyards, orchards and crop fields before heading to what seemed to be a highway of sorts. Realizing that we had come too far, we backtracked to the entrance and this time veered to the South past what seemed to be a Greenhouse/Horticultural business. To the left just a few yards past the greenhouse was a young vineyard with a large white house on the side and a road leading up to it. The lone figure of a man wearing a white wide brimmed hat and dressed in a sky blue shirt seemed to be waiting for us. It was Donald Ziraldo.
He welcomed us with smiles and open arms. Sandie and Roy were immediately "taken" by his charm and genuineness. We took a number of still pictures and then were led what appeared to be a cement foundation not far from the house and young vineyard. Pointing to the large square piece of cement that we were standing on he said, "This is the site of the fruit packing shed that was the original Inniskillin winery in 1973."
When he mention that the whole demeanor of the interview seemed to change. I couldn't help but notice this change within me and making a mental note that the human being are indeed a complicated creature. We attach so much significance to history and relics----being on the spot.
I felt the same way when I visited Umbria and saw Assisi---home of St. Francis. I felt that way when I visited Fess Parker in Los Olivos. Standing amidst the wide expanse of the Little Big Horn had the same feeling as did seeing "The Spirit Of St. Louis" at the Smithsonian. Now it was Inniskillin's turn. In a way it was a place of reverence. This patch of cement amidst a vineyard and a big white house had a sense of reverence about it. And I was there to contemplate!
I picked up what seemed to be a rusty iron flower pot hanger that was amongst the debris strewn on the ground. It had significance also.
"Can I have this? I asked" Donald Ziraldo gave his approval saying, "We have picked up many artifacts and mementos." I felt lucky I had a piece of the original Inniskillin in my hands. Lucky indeed!
Now it was time to "shoot" a formal interview for "Two In A Vineyard". Sandie and Donald Ziraldo sat on the steps leading to the large white house in the background. The house itself proved to be an interesting point itself.
"The house was on the property when I bought it in 1971 upon graduation from the University of Guelph. Rumour had it that General Brock's girlfriend stayed there....!" If only the walls could talk!
The two went on to talk about the beginnings at Inniskillin and then talk shifted towards the vineyard just a few yards away.
"When I became involved with the Research Station I decided that I show that I was practicing what I preached concerning going back to nature," He said. "So this vineyard dedicated to Icewine is totally organic!"
Ziraldo and Sandie talked about the influence and research of various countries and ironically touched on Austria's Klosterneuburg. They spoke about vines that do well in Ontario and various parts of Canada and about the future of wine in Canada. Of course Cool Climate Technology, a pet project and one that Donald Ziraldo had invested a great deal of time in was discussed.
Humour was also a part in the conversation. At one point in the discussion regarding the beginnings of Icewine he remarked, "Making of Icewine was a learning experience, we were excited about our first crop of icewine grapes and went out one day to find the vines bare.Birds had eaten all the grapes. Next time we used netting."
At another point, I became so involved watching the duo converse about Austrian wine and Klosterneuburg that I inadvertently cut into the conversation----completely forgetting that the camera (and sound) was running. That's how good the interview was going. One forgot that he was supposed to be directing/producing and not involving!
The interview went on to discuss future plans for the vineyard and new ventures "Ziraldo Ice Wine" and "Equifera Ice Wine". Ziraldo also mentioned pointing to a pile of large cement decorative pieces that looked as if they had been part of an archway. "Donald Triggs called me one day and said that he had remnants of the old London Winery and since I collected Art Deco would I be interested in it? I had it brought here for future use and now plan to build an entrance leading into the vineyard."
A mental picture of the majestic entrance as pictured on labels of "Chateau Leoville Marquis de Las Cas", the famous and very exceptional wine from the Bordeaux commune of St. Julien, came to my mind. I thought it very apropos that such a structure be erected on such reverent wine ground! Such a fitting way to end one chapter of a famous life and enter another using the same materials------the same venue!
This seemed a fitting end for our visit with Mr. Donald Ziraldo and "Two In A Vineyard's" filming venture in the Niagara Region. As our van turned the corner down Side Road 58, I reflected on the fact that this was a sentimental journey for me and some may have viewed this sentiment as being a bit "over the top". However in my defense, the words of late actor Jack Lemon came to my mind when he said; "When it comes to memories our biggest regrets are the risks we failed to take!"
Memories are our most important possessions and our risks, their greatest influence. Without either, life is not worth living. That old fruit shed had significance and that spot's future will inspire just as much! Well done Mr. Ziraldo!!!
A Bit About Roy and Sandie!
I could not end this blog without thanking Roy and Sandie who have packed their tooth brushes and accompanied me in this venture. Roy is an outstanding camera person and photographer whose sensitivity, initiative and instinct works hand in hand with Sandie's charm, personality and good looks. They both have made this and the Austria trips a true adventure.
They have also made my life a whole lot easier---calmly putting up with "lets do that one more time" or "Sandie----it's the 'Largest Privately Owned Winery not Largest Winery in Austria"!
Their suggestions and comments were always "right on" and our "off" time was as enjoyable as our work time (and vice/versa)!
Because of production schedules and demands, Sandie was "on deck" for all the interviews on this "shoot" and throughout, she proved herself a true pro. Donald Ziraldo made such a comment in an email to me quoting how "good and professional" she was as an interviewer. I must admit, she made it look easy.
Roy, on the other hand, made it possible for this whole venture to take place. Without him, there would be no "Two In A Vineyard" or any other series for that matter. I have heard from many that good camera persons "are all over the place!" Not so! Good camera persons that I can work with are rare! I am a great believer in doing your job and if you can't do it----get out of the way for someone who can! In this case one needs to trust and that comfort does not come easy. I trust Roy and choose to get out of his way when he is doing his job.
So, my heartfelt thanks to both Roy and Sandie for their assistance, patience and above all, their belief in this project...........and Sandie, you were right------!!! It's never that easy---!"----is it Mr. Byers?" Thank you both!!!