August 4th, Niagara Day Two: Inniskillin, Olde Angel Inn, Queen's Landing, Cave Spring Cellars, B&B House By The Side Of The Road Party

Waking Up To Country Living

The first night at the B&B, House By The Side Of The Road was a charm----peaceful, quiet, relaxing and very comfortable. I cleaned up and went to breakfast and met Christine's niece, Monika, who was cooking up a storm of great looking food. Monika was working at the "House" for the summer and was slated to go back to Amhurst University which she was attending on a basketball scholarship. You will have guessed that Monika was tall. Being 6'4" tall had its

advantages! Christine mentioned that in addition to being in shape to do the house work required, Monika could easily reach areas out of the way to more height challenged individual.

Monika was a lovely girl with a personality to match----intelligent, mature, respectful and

common-sensical. She seemed a true credit to her family. Oh one thing, her boyfriend was the same height so I wouldn't want to "cross" them in any way.

After a hearty breakfast of Italian sausage, scrambled eggs, home fries, great coffee and mango/orange juice we were off to our first stop, Inniskillin.

If it was correct to start with Jackson-Triggs the day before, it was doubly so to start the next day with Inniskillin. This was the winery that started it all. It was the winery that began the whole boutique winery and later Canadian wine revolution back in 1974. The story is now legend when Donald Ziraldo and Karl Kaiser obtained the first winery licence in almost forty years and did so taking great risks. But risk is the name of the game for someone like Messrs. Ziraldo and Kaiser and they made it work. Their winery became a massive hit and proved all the naysayers and detractors wrong. The experts said "It can't be done----you can't grow vinifera grapes in Ontario and make it work!!!!" Can't however was not in Ziraldo's vocabulary and he and Kaiser did it and did it well with their 1989 Vidal Icewine-----enough to win the Platinum Best Of Show Medal at VinExpo in 1991. This time it was other countries namely the French that gave credit where credit was do---and boy, did they give credit!!! This was the proverbial "wine shot" that was heard around the world and it is still sending reverberations because with that acknowledgement, Canada's wine industry took a flying leap forward and has not looked back.
Inniskillin has forged ahead and in addition to its massive high quality wine portfolio, it has become a culinary hot spot.
Sandy met with Executive Chef David Penny who we had already met at Jackson-Triggs. He introduced her to the "cool" vineyard smoker and discussed the use of local foods in cooking. David mentioned how he smoked whole pigs, fish, meats and matched them with wine dishes as well as his favourite----cooking with Ice Wine. David and Sandy discussed in detail usage of Ice wine in a variety of dishes. While watching this it occurred to me how Sandie has a way of making individuals feel quite comfortable while David seemed the perfect guest. His speaking voice was exceptionally clear and it was very apparent that David and the "film" camera were good friends. After the interview with David, Sandie went on to interview Head Winemaker, Bruce Nichols and Debi Pratt in the Vidal Ice wine vineyard. Surrounded by the Vidal grapevines full of maturing grapes, the award winning winemaker who made a majestic name for himself in the Okanagan Valley discussed several of his wines including: A Pinot Noir Rose, Three Vineyard Chardonnay, Three Vineyard Cabernet Franc and a Vidal Icewine. The Three Vineyards series are wines from three different vineyards and fermented separately with the best wines blended together to best express the terroir and character of the grapes. The Pinot Noir Rose is not made from inferior grapes that are not good for any other use but purposely made for the purpose of a great rose. Of course there was the Vidal Icewine. Icewine has been regarded as a particular forte of Bruce and the Vidal is no exception. After our meeting with Bruce and Debi in the vineyard, it was Debi's turn to go it alone, seated in a very comfortable chair located between the Inniskillin wine tasting area, the patio meeting centre and the vineyard.

Debi and I go back several years and she has proven to be one of the great strengths to not only Inniskillin but sister winery Jackson-Triggs as well. She is an amazing person that continues to exhibit great and positive influence on whomever she comes in contact with. I have certainly gained much respect for her and her abilities to the point that I often seek her counsel when I am "stuck" on a wine problem. She never fails.

Debbie discussed the philosophy and history behind Inniskillin as well as the changes over the years. She also mentioned of the hard work and risks that the initial owners took in coming up with Inniskillin. Visitors come and see the final product and have virtually no idea of what went on behind the scenes to produce the vibrant work that exists now.

After the interview, expertly conducted again by Sandie, we bid our adieu and l left for The Old Angel Inn.

The Old Angel Inn

Built in 1789 because of a land grant given to the deputy surveyor general, the Inn was the host of many a famous individual such as: John Graves Simcoe, Alexander MacKenzie, Prince Edward (Father of Queen Victoria) and Irish Poet Thomas Moore.

The Inn was rebuilt in 1815 as it was a victim of the War of 1812----burned down by American Troops in 1813. Another victim was a certain Captain Colin Swayzie. This British officer delayed meeting his troops so he could meet his female friend but was found out and killed by the invading force. Strange things started to happen at the Inn around 1820 and have continued on to this day.

Staff at the Inn have been hit by flying objects and have had doors "push" back at them with no one seemingly on the other end. Visitors staying in one of the rooms have awakened in the early morning hours to find all the water taps in the washroom turned on. They turned them off but awoke again to find them "on" again. This does not even take into account the number of people who "felt" presences around them. And what would one say if he/she awoke to boisterous laughing and other noise at three am and only to find the building locked up tight? That happened to some guests.

While the Inn certainly had an interesting history, the original decor with three gas fireplaces for a nice warm mood----especially on those cool Fall and Winter eves------and witty dialogue on doors was truly supreme. The atmosphere in the Inn was great but the best thing was the food, wine and selection of 24 types of draft beers. I could certainly attest for the quality and amount of food that was provided guests (as can Sandie and Roy). The five rooms available to guests with en suite bathrooms and period beds were quite lovely. They were aptly named with "special meaning" concerning the Inn itself: Colonel's Suite, Generals Quarters, Governor's Room, Captain's Room and Sweethearts' Room. One thing, Captain Swayze is not a malevolent spirit. He is just a little prankster as long as -----as the legend goes----the Union Jack remains on the flag post. If it's taken down----what will happen? Does one want to find out?

With our bellies full of fish and chips plus a pint of draft, we went onto Queen's landing. Our thanks to Stephanie, Jean, Tim, Phil and all the staff for a great and informative stay!!!

Queen's Landing
We were met at Queen's Landing by Lily Kszan, General Manager of the hotel and Laura Stoner, Marketing Coordinator. I was impressed by their professionalism and their open hospitality. I was also very impressed that they both did their homework on both me and the television series. I couldn't help feeling that Queen's Landing and its parent company of Vintage Inns was very well represented and looked after!!!!!

The large Georgian Mansion that was situated on Byron Street in Niagara On The Lake

was/is one the town's (and Ontario's) most elegant residences. Built in 1990 on a property that was once "The Old Niagara Harbour and Dock Company (1831) it was designed in the style of Kings George 1st through 4th. The Dockmaster's house one of Niagara's historical landmarks and which dates back to the early 19th Century has been historically restored. With a staircase that cried for "Gone With The Wind' and an entrance that displayed marbled floors and stained glass ceilings the mansion was a true showpiece.Just being there was enough yet there is so much more.

The location was what Romance is made of. Located where the Niagara River and Lake Ontario converge, the best of both worlds was/is truly consummated. Here one could have a romantic interlude and/or do business. The Mansion reeked class in its spacious high ceilings, huge beds, lovely en suites, magnificently decorated halls with marble, carpet, frescoes, paintings and sculptures that would make any palace or museum jealous.

In addition to all this was the wine cellar that was temperature controlled and with wines from all over the globe and the dining areas where one could dine formally at the Tiara Restaurant which specialized in French Cuisine, casual dining at the Bacchus Lounge or light fare at the Waterfront Patio where one can meet friends and look our over the boat docks towards the panoramic view of the river. In all, Queen's Landing was truly an experience for us all. A big thank you to Lily and Karen for their gracious assistance.

Cave Spring Cellars

I remember my first meeting with Angelo Pavan and Len Pennachetti in the late 1980's (circa 1988) when they were at the York Mills Plaza at the intersection of Bayview and York mills. They were introducing their new wines which happened to be a 1986 Riesling. Somewhere I have the empty bottles with their signatures on them and if I find them I will make sure to give them back as a memento.

This meeting started a love affair between me and Cave Spring Cellars which for awhile developed into a business relationship whereby I filmed them for my series Wine Companions and Wine Dining as well as brought tour buses to the locale. My memory takes me back to the construction of the restaurant and inn as well as the old winery which used to have a different entrance.

While a few years would go by between visits, Ange and I always kept in touch and today was no different. I have always looked on Ange as more than a friend so whenever I did a series, article or tour, Cave Spring has always been in my thoughts----and actions.

The one thing that has always got me regarding Cave Springs was that while at other wineries you hear about the soil and the rocks and the drainage, at Cave Springs all you have to do is walk up to the escarpment next to the vineyard, jump across the little spring that emanates from the caves and then-----you are in it. You see the rocks both giant and little. You see the drainage and you know that what is above ground is also underneath it. No wonder Len Pennachetti's grandfather bought the land in the 1920's and then furthered the families grape history by planting grapes there. Little wonder that Len decided to grow European varietals in the late 70's.

Between them. Angelo the "Philosophical Winemaker", Len the "Visionary Viticulturist" and Tom the "Pragmatic Marketer" changed a group of dilapidated buildings into what is now a bustling and dynamic village-----Jordan Village with its art shops, flower nurseries, Inn on the Twenty, On The Twenty Restaurant, Antique Shop, Wine Boutique and of course winery.

We arrived later in the afternoon and met Angelo just outside the meeting room where a meeting was going on regarding the winery. Gracious as ever, he withdrew from the meeting to give us a tour and interview concerning his winery. Sandie interviewed him as he moved from the boutique to the cellars below where he explained why this vineyard of Cave Spring was the best location of all the wineries in Niagara. It had to do with air flow and lake influence but I am not going to try to explain it here. Angelo did a much better job on camera. Sandie and Angelo then moved up to the boutique where he brought out his wines for a tutored tasting. Once could see the passion still in his face as he described the Chardonnay, Riesling, Pinot Noir, Gamay and Sparkling Blancs de Blancs Traditional Method wine. I have always admired Angelo for this and I am sure that he would say, "It's not just me but every winemaker is passionate about his wine!" However, Angelo's passion and capability has always rang true. I purchase a bottle of "Blanc de Noirs" Traditional Method Sparkling with plans of having with my two companions and friends that evening. With that we ended our stay at Cave Spring Cellars and Jordan. Angelo, being the consummate host, brought over several bottles for us to taste later. Thanks Ange and hopefully next time I'm around, I'll get a chance to pay my respects to Len also.
Cave Spring Cellars Vineyard
We then went to the actual Cave Spring Vineyard which was a few kilometres West of the winery and Jordan proper. After taking some general pictures, we drove to the foot of the escarpment and Sandie did an segment on the twenty-five year old vines while I, knowing that the segment was in very capable hands, decided to scout for picture locations. What I found was utterly amazing.
I crossed the little stream (more like jumped across) and after fighting my way through a tangle of tall weeds, found myself in a prehistoric looking scene with huge rocks ascending up to great heights. All around me was moss covered rock as the twilight of the day tried to shine through the cover of trees. Not an inch of the ground was left uncovered by all shapes and sizes of the Dolomite limestone. Being a rock collector for my fishpond back home, I found a nice moss covered flat piece that would make a great addition to the back yard. Due to the obstacles in the way, I concluded that it was not worth the risk of falling with the camera and equipment thus damaging our chances for finishing our project so discretion being the better part of valour, I decided to leave this ancient site and go back to the group.
As sloshed across the stream and entered the land of the sun once more, I could see vultures in the air and wondered what was happening since most of the time one sees hawks. Nothing seemed out of the ordinary. I went back to Sandie and Roy who were packing the cameras in the truck and then we were off----first to take more pictures of Greenland Estates and then to a grocery store to buy our dinner. That night we had decided, was going to be a finger food and cold cut night.
We arrived back at the House By The Side Of The Road around 6 PM and immediately put the bottles we obtained into the cooler for later. A shower and change was definitely in order and then Sandie, who had purchased the food, prepared it on a table while Roy and I opened the goods. We joined Christine McAlpine and her friend Carol, on the veranda.
The night turned into a great party where discussion flowed as easily as the wine. Christine shared her Greenlane Estate Greetings Cabernet/Merlot Red with us. The wine was excellent with Blackberry, currant and raspberry flavours that had some great anise spice along for the ride. Sandie and I committed local sacrilege by opening up a Rosemount Estate Shiraz from Australia which was juicy with spice, plum, cherry and chocolate and a California Cline Syrah which was quite good with pepper, plum/cherry/black berry flavours with a touch of vanilla, mocha and coffee notes. However, We redeemed ourselves by opening up the Blanc de Noirs from Cave Spring Cellars. The wine was absolutely marvelous. Powerful with a myriad of flavours that hit the senses with strawberry, citrus, hazelnut and a general nuttiness on the finish that lasted and lasted. The food and wine matched well and what food! Goat cheese, kielbasa, ham, crusty bread, mortadella, strawberries---it was a feast!
The evening went very well and soon it was time to give our eyes and taste buds a rest. Tomorrow was another day and much to do. We cleaned up and turned in!!!!!