Name:
Location: Whitby, Ontario, Canada

Born in Malta but in Canada since age 5. Has written three books and presently does several columns about wine and food for various magazines.

Sunday, September 11, 2011

September 5th, Day Six: Visit To Local Wineries Of Eastern Townships

Many Upscale Wineries
The Eastern Townships sports some 24 wineries which includes some of the best in Quebec. After a delicious breakfast at the Estrimont we were off to our first winery. The weather was an on and off rain but the cieling was a bright one thus enabling us to take some good footage.
Bleu Lavande
Our first visit was to Bleu Lavande, a Lavender grower perched atop an almost 1000 foot hill at a place called Fitch Bay. We were informed that this was largest Lavender farm in Canada and the second largest in North America with some 300,000 true lavender plants. Lavender products in the form of refined oils, plants, soaps, creams and perfumes were produced here. There were other venues also. One could have a massage in the fields, visit the interpretation centre for an explanation about what goes on in the growing and harvesting of lavender as well as the making of lavender products. Picnics, cooking classes and relaxing walks were all on the agenda.
Owner Pierre Pellerin originally became interested in this type of work due to his desire to produce and work in a healthful scenario. He obviously had some inside information.
Vignoble Cep d'Argent
Years ago, when I was writing my book "Rendezvous For Dinner" I picked a winery for inclusion in this book for three reasons. First of all, its then owner, Dennis Drouin, contacted me back when I inquired. Second, his two partners from Champagne intrigued me as to their experience and third of all, the description of his whole terroir looked ideal for wine. I was correct and my gut instinct once again proved right. Dennis was originally from Ontario and after much research, founded Cep d'Argent in a superb microclimate. The name actually means "Vine of Silver" referring to the grapevines and the silver glow that Lake Magog gives.
I wanted to visit "Cep" in person and was not disappointed at what I found----a vibrant winery with lovely grape varieties, excellent knowledgeable staff and exceptional surroundings. One major disappointment was that Denis was not there as he had retired some time ago and had sold the property to the two the two brothers. The two owners, Jean Paul and Francois Scieur put much work into the winery and made it into one of the best functioning wineries in Quebec and Canada.
This winery became a centre for Agro-Tourism as well as fine wine. There were many activities that involved everything from the usual weddings, to ice wine berry picking in winter to special events to entertainment with a theme such as a Minstrel playing his flute and making fine music. There are two large halls for dinners and other activities and if one loves scenery, there are strategically placed lookouts that span the vineyards and lake.
The winery produced an excellent Champagne style sparkling wine in the traditional method. It's reserve red wine "Reserve du Cep d'Argent" was excellent as were the superb whites and sweet wines. Jean Paul and Francois have capitalized on all the assets of this great winery and it will always remain my favourite----after all, we never forget our first love---do we?
Roy and I had lunch at "Cep" and then moved on to the next winery. I couldn't help going back for one more look at the talented Minstrel playing the flutes. "Cep" indeed is my first winery love in Quebec.
Vignoble Le Domaine les Brome
Important people often buy wineries but in this case it came in the form of the former head of the Bank of Canada. Leon Courville. An innovator as well as a businessman, Mr. Courville set out a team that produced interesting combinations for wine blends. Combinations such as the hybrid Geisenheim grape blended with Seyval and Chardonnay. Each variety vinified separately and then kept on the lees until the blending took place. The fact that Courville grows vinifera species such as Chardonnay, Riesling, Cabernet Franc and Pinot Noir shows enterprise and courage since these grapes would be difficult to grow and ripen in this kind of terroir. However, he has done it and done it well.
In addition to the above, Leon Courville has purchased a different type of storage and fermentation tank. They are square! This saves on space as well as heating requirements.
The old sugar original building has been refurbished as a winery and boutique. It retains it character while moving forward with the times. As we left the winery, I couldn't help but feel a bit of jealousy at the exceptional view that the his winery offered overlooking the 60,000 vines that lay before us. Leon Courville has done a magnificent job with his wines and I am sure will do so in the future.
Abbaye de St. Benoit-du-Lac
Religion and cheese may seem like an odd couple but at the picturesque Abbaye de St. Benoit
they go hand in hand. The Abby is a superbly built overlooking Lake Memphremagog. It pays tribute to the harmony of natural forms along with multicoloured bricks. Services here are held in Gregorian Chant.
Father Dominique Mimier met us and took us aback at his youth though his actual age would be around 70. He took us to the cheese making factory which was responsible for making some ten different types of cheese, cider and maple products. He also took us to the storing facilities which housed some of the blue cheese that was slowly being inoculated with the bacteria that makes it so and gives it its odd flavour.
All through this the rain kept on pouring as the skies opened up even more. We obtained a brief tour of the building before leaving. On our way out we passed many who were there in some form of pilgrimage. We also met a very young looking monk whose name was Patrick. The youngster was all smiles and could speak quite good English. He mentioned that he has spent a couple of years in Toronto but felt he was drawn to the priesthood. This youngster that looked around sixteen or seventeen was actually thirty years old soon to be thirty-one. We both left wondering if there was something in the water.
We returned to our hotel and both were not very hungry. We decided to forgo dinner. The rest of the night was spent relaxing and writing.
End of Day 6