Name:
Location: Whitby, Ontario, Canada

Born in Malta but in Canada since age 5. Has written three books and presently does several columns about wine and food for various magazines.

Tuesday, September 6, 2011

September 3rd Day Four: Last Day In Quebec City

Visiting The 'Marche de Vieux Quebec"
It was the last day in Quebec City and Sharon was determined that we have a peek on what makes Quebec "tick" by taking us around the city itself. Our first stop was the old market. The Old Port Market of Quebec dates back about 300 years and the model of the present market goes back to the early 19th Century.
The present market place has been part of the Quebec event repertoire since 1987. It has over one hundred exhibitors and some of the best fruit and vegetable stands anywhere. Things like purple, blonde and red carrots as well as huge amounts of cheeses, pates, wines, fish, bread, pies, meat, deli's, cookeries, art work, sculptures, pastries, currant shops etc.
It seems that chefs such as Jean Soulard and Francois from restaurants in the city all shop for their vegetables there.
Our guide was a pleasant and personable you man by the name of Johnny. This seventeen year old boy gave us a bit of comic relief as he was just on the cusp of his birthday next Tuesday and he seemed quite excited about it. His knowledge about the market was extensive and his energy was infectious. I couldn't help laugh when we tried the wines and invited him to do so, we really did not have to twist his arm. He exhibited all that I found great about Quebec---maturity with a quiet and youthful charm.
From the market, we were taken to a unique place---prison! The history here is quite unique as prisons of the day back in the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries were not the prisons of today. They were based on punishment without any form of rehabilitation.
Morin College
Morin College was originally built as a prison in 1808. It is an ominous four story structure that was in use as a prison until 1814. It was the first prison to reflect the ideas of British reformist John Howard. It was designed by French architect Francois Baillaigre.
It seems that John Howard, while travelling, was imprisoned by a privateer and later the French. This experience is believed by many to have influenced his ideas concerning prison reform.
Up until that time, prison was not a place for the weak of heart. Men, women and children were enclosed in the same area and treated the same. The mentally ill were lumped in the same group as the violent criminals. Though this prison was still archaic by today's standards, it had vast improvements. First of all the prisoners were segregated according to severity of crimes in separate cell blocks. There was rehabilitative attempts and personal hygiene was imposed (such as bathing once per week), Latrines or toilet areas very crude by today's standards were constructed.
The prison was converted to a college in 1868 and has served to the present day as the library and archives of the Literary and Historical Society of Quebec.
Going To Jail
Roy and I went to visit the old prison and were taken for a tour by Jonathan Rousseau, a college student studying law. The young lad was impressive with his knowledge and his presentation and he did have a great personality.
Dressed in period clothing he took us to the old jail where upon he described conditions of the time. He said that the jail had four levels and the residents were classed according to the crime committed. The four levels were as such: The top level was for Debtors. The second level was for those who were deemed untrustworthy i.e. not honouring contracts. The third level was for thieves and the fourth level (lowest) was for violent criminals and/or the insane.
Now it makes one wonder as to why the levels---it seems that the toilet system used was such that the top level got the least amount of "smelly returns" and each subsequent level got just a bit more with the lowest level being unbearable. So it seems those with the most shameful crimes got the most smell for their actions.
The tour was in deed interesting revealing various artifacts such as the "chain and ball" placed around the legs of prisoners plus "cat of Nine tails" used for punishment. Also observed were the graffiti of the day produced by bored prisoners and/or those wishing to play games i.e. a chess table carved into the wooden floor.
Of course there was the original jail cells which one such as I could hardly move in. I had to try the cell and it was an very unnerving feeling thinking that men/women and some children spent some or most of their lives in the cell. One thing, there were only 17 hangings for crimes. Much less than I suspected.
Church Of The Holy Trinity Anglican Church
The church was competed in 1804 as an answer to the strong Catholic congregation and their Church of Notre Dame. It was the first Anglican cathedral built outside of the British Isles and was patterned after St. Martins Church in Trafalgar Square in London, England. King George III agreed to fund the church as long as he was granted a permanent pew in it. He also provided a folio Bible, Communion silverware and prayer books. One thing not commonly known is that the church was designed to have a steeple/bell tower which was taller than that of the Catholic Church in the area.
Notre Dame Catholic Church
This church is a masterpiece of design and decoration. The ornateness challenges some of the best in the world and it has a crypt that has the bodies of faithful Catholics buried in a crypt after being moved there from an old cemetery. Samuel de Champlain's body is said to be among those entombed there. Also the bodies of Laval and Frontenac are entombed there.
The church was fully restored in 1922 when a suspected arsonist burned it down. The church was again restored from plans and photos taken. The exact copy is now in its place.
The church was both a great place and a sad one since we had to say good-bye to Sharon. She was an exceptional guide who endeared us and took care of our needs. Thanks Sharon.
A Bit Of Morocco
That night we had dinner at a Moroccan restaurant. The food was quite good. Roy had Lamb and Couscous which came with a Baklava dessert and coffee. I had Vegetables and Couscous and the same dessert. The coffee was great-----strong.
We then retired and prepared for our trip to the Eastern Townships.
End of Day Four