Discovering The Azores Day 6: Trying Out The New Car, Tea Time, Porto Formoso, The Search For Pescadore, Time With Rimi and Joao!

The Day Begins
Morning came! It was cloudy and the rain did come earlier that night. One now knows why this island is so green. It rains at the drop of a hat but one can also count on the sun shining and it did.
As I awoke I was filled with apprehension as today was the day that the rental car came and as everyone knows my love of driving at any time is limited to the phrase "Why do I have to drive!?"
I have never been one who enjoys driving and the mere thought of trusting a machine ---even a phone----was in the negative quadrant.
Breakfast was enjoyable as I met with Darlene and Amit and enjoyed a discussion.
Shortly afterwards Joao came over to the suite and informed us that the car had arrived.
The sales person was there with the usual paperwork and I made sure we had over the necessary insurance--just in case!
I was taken to the vehicle and shown how to operate this machine. It was a bit different than I was used to but got the hang of it and then Joao reiterated the operation of the vehicle.
Within minutes we were on our own.
Driving
The Mazda eased itself ever so carefully down  toward the awaiting open gate. I made sure that the narrow borders of the concrete wall that bordered both sides of the street did not come anywhere near the vehicle. We were off!
The Willy Nelson song "On The Road Again"came to mind as I stepped up the speed and made my way to the first left hand turn of the day. We were on the highway!
Cha Gorreana
We stopped off at the Teas Factory and was treated so some special tea again as we did the day before  with Andy Tomlin. We stopped off at the Formoso Factory, a smaller operation but a nice one, the day before.
We tried some tea, bought some custard tarts and enjoyed. Then we decided to search for the Tomlin's place which we were to visit the next day.
We drove through Porto Formosa and came within striking distance of the home. We then back tracked and went home.
The rest of the time was spent exploring Rabo do Peixe along the water front and then we went home of the evening.
Later Rimi contacted us and we all got together for a nice glass of wine.
End to a good day----End of Day Six!

        
    

Discovering The Azores Day 5: Lombadas, Porto Formoso, Park Naturale Dos Ribeira Caldeiros, Ponta do Sossego

Breakfast came fast this morning even though I went to bed late for me at Midnight. Breakfast came in the form of the usual bread and cheese with a bit of Granola mix on top plus fruit from Minuvida's own garden.
The Nordeste
Later on at 10:30 AM Andy Tomlin of the "Azores Connection" tour group picked us up and took us for a day's romp around the island. Andy and his lovely wife Laura had fast become friends of ours since our last visit in March of 2016. Laura stayed home this time since she recently gave birth to their first child, a handsome boy named George!
We were heading to the northeast part of the island called Nordeste which was full of rugged beauty, high peaks, deep forested valleys and many interesting stops along the way. In many ways it was a testament to the power of Nature and the Tectonic forces within our globe.  
Heading to Lombadas
We headed first to an abandoned water distribution area called The Valley of Lombadas. Years ago carbonated mineral water surfacing  from springs deep inside the earth was collected and brought down by horse and wagon.
Now it is a conservation area surrounded by forest and full of historical remains of buildings from years gone by.
Andy took us to a secluded house not far from the parking lot where with a bit of careful footing around rocky streams and other barriers we entered the building and found a large tap from which was flowing exceptionally clear water. Andy collected water in several bottles and allowed us to taste this crystal clear sparkling liquid. The taste was better than any mineral water ---or water for that matter----that I had ever tasted. Almost sweet with a natural carbonation. Just superb!
Porto Formoso and Tea Plantation  
Tea was on the agenda when we stopped off at the Porto Formoso Tea Factory which not only produces tea, but also preserves the memories of tea production in the Azores islands from the very beginning to the last quarter of the 19th century.
There were many varieties of tea to choose from but we stopped in and tasted a mild blend and then we were on our way.
Parcque Naturale Dos Ribeira Caldeiroes
Andy then drove us to the Parcque Naturale Dos Ribeira Caldeiroes which is another conservation area based on old mills and rugged scenery.  Here a beautiful series of waterfalls, framed by the looming cliffs and lush rain forest offers sports individuals many challenges.. The waterfront is also dotted with historic water mills, many of which have been restored.
For those who wish more information there Ethnographic Museum housed in one of the mills. The old miller’s house is a handicrafts shop.
We stopped and had a quick coffee and sandwich before we left for a favoured place where cats were king----well sort of! 
Jardim do Miradouro da Ponta do Sossego
Ponta do Miradouro da Ponta do Sossego is one of the finest lookouts in the north part of the island. Manicured gardens and well groomed trees greeted us and other visitors. The garden here is multi-leveled and full of colourful flowers and interesting plants. The view of the Atlantic expanse high up above the sea is amazing.
Cats were also on the agenda. The area is home to many resident cats ---all neutered and all well fed if not by the tourists; by the gardeners. The cats are as famous an attraction as the view and truly have a good home!
Andy did more than his share in showing us the sights and we are so grateful to him for his time. It was a super day.
End of Day Five
    

Discovering The Azores Day 4: Caldeira Velha en Ribeira Grande!

Another Sunny Morning
Another sunny morning and nothing was planned however I knew a visit to Rabo de Peixe was in order to get some more groceries but the Sun shines intermittently at times and even on super sunny days the clouds do move in quite quickly many times bringing rain, I thought ti best to take full advantage of the nice weather.
I contacted Rui Pavao who was the driver who picked us up at the airport and got him to drive us to Caldeira Velha which is a conservation area with springs heated by volcanic activity.
Caldeira Velha  
Located on the northern slope of  Fogo Mountain this conservation area comes complete with a wide assortment of native and and non native flora along with several species of fauna such as bats, frogs, song birds and  buzzards. The greenery is lush   
There is a warm waterfall which flows into a pool that is large enough to swim in. Just below is is a "pool" of bubbling water/mud to the tune of 100 degrees centigrade.
Just below is another pool which flows into a nearby creek. This pool is much warmer than the waterfall above (38 degrees centigrade) and allows people to wade in as the water streams by.
Next to the hot springs is a curio shop and change rooms.
The place is a veritable jungle of ferns, hanging plants, moss, lilies, trees and shrubs.
I had given Rui the word to come back in two hours. Rui was prompt as usual and got me back to the Minuvida! I came home and immediately had to run down to Rabo de Peixe to get some groceries. The trip down to the town was not a problem since it was downhill all the way.
I stopped off at the local grocery store which was closing for the day. I thought that that was quite curious since it was just going on six o' clock! I hurriedly picked up some buns and a bottle of local red and started my trek back to the Minuvida.
Now remember that I said the hill down was easy. However the walk back up the hill was so hard. Event though I work out I found that going up this hill was a challenge. Half a mile on a steep  hill truly worked my leg muscles and breath!
Soon however I was home and had a small meal.
Not too many things happened today and I decided to veg a bit!
End of Day Four  

Discovering The Azores Day 3: Santa Barbara Beach, Salto do Cabrito, Caldeira Ribeira Grande and Botequim Acoriano Restaurant and

A New Day
The Sun was shining brilliantly as I awoke. To my surprise I had slept in and the time was 9 AM. A quick shave and brush followed and off I went to Minuvida for breakfast. Today we had a plan to do a tour with Remi and Joao. Shortly after breakfast we were on our way to our first location of Santa Barbara Beach.
Praia de Santa Barbara
The beach was located on the north coast of Sao Miguel and is one of the longest beaches in the Azores. It is frequented by serious surfers as the waves are consistent and large. Just outside of the area of Ribeira Grande it is usually warmer than the surrounding area as it is quite sheltered by huge volcanic walls of eruptions gone by.
Interesting things about this beach as it harbours the only Azores endemic Genus of the Vidalia plant. It grows among the many lava rock outcroppings near the beach. Close to the beach are very old protective stations used in years gone by to stave off pirates and like.
The beach also homed "Toka Tula", a restaurant of high repute. The name meant "Over here;over there!"
 We then went to another beach called Piscina Naturale di Ferreira
Piscina Naturale di Ferreira
The way down is steep! Parking is easy and there is a nice refreshment bar just before the beach. The lava rock is sharp and can be treacherous to the careless and the volcanic walls near the beach have been known to have rock slides. However, the ocean water is warm and heated by volcanic activity at the bottom. If one is careful, the adventure is in the water and the beauty surrounds in the form of many shapes of lava deposits.       
After Ferreira we were off to Salto do Cabrito.     

Salto do Cabrito
The road to Salto do Cabrito was an interesting one which saw us go up and down some exceptionally winding roads and up (and) down some very high hills.  We arrived at what appeared to be a small river that was being fed by a very high waterfall. We made our way through some dense, heavily treed areas to arrive at the waterfall which was some 50 metres in height and dropped into a pond area.
The clear cool water seemed inviting but none of us went in. Instead we climbed up a staircase which went up to 37 metres to a spot where part of the waterfall was fed. Huge amounts of water pushed its way through a small space and over lava rock smoothed by the constant powerful flow.
The area seemed an ideal picnic spot but was often used by hikers on a circular trek around the falls.  The massive amount of flora here made it an interesting space to dwell for several hours in one had time. Trees and plants such as eucalyptus, acacias and ctryptomerias  abounded.
After some serious exercise up and down a large number of steps we were once again in the car heading for our next destination.
Caldeiras de Ribeira Grande
Lunchtime was spent near some natural volcanic hot springs  in a small village that was once quite active on the tourist front. The air seemed drenched with the small of sulfur and of course there were an ample number of baths and spas as well as a restaurant at which seemed to be having quite a party at the time we were there.
Lunch was in the form of a  lunch basket made prior to the trip. It consisted of a large Hummus sandwich, orange, drink and small desert.
After viewing the Hot Springs we were off to the Town of Ribeira Grande.
Ribeira Grande
Located about 18 kilometres northeast of Ponta Delgada is the City of Ribeira Grande which was settled around the 15th and 16th Centuries. The old town is made up of two parishes, Matriz and Conceicao. There is much architecture from the 17th and 18th Centuries which includes the Town Hall and the parish church of Espirito Santo.
The municipal garden with its huge New Zealand Fir trees is a must see. The city has a charm all its own. Some time was spent touring the lower area near the river plus the garden/bandstand area.
Then we were off for home!   
 Botequin Acoriano
Almost settled for the night when a knock came to our door. Klaus and Yuli who we were to have a glass of wine with later, came to the door and asked us if we wished to go to dinner. Not planned but certainly a marvelous idea we freshened up and soon we were heading to  the Botequin Acoriano which is a highly regarded restaurant in the area.
We had a superb meal with some fine local wine. I had a wonderful fish soup followed by a phenomenally cooked Red Snapper. My pal Klaus had Octopus with potatoes and veggies while Chicken stuffed with bacon and ham was he other choice.
It was a super night all round.
Back at Minuvida
The celebrations did not stop there. Later that evening I promised Klaus a taste of Canadian Riesling. I brought out an Inniskillin Pinot Grigio/Riesling blend. It met with super approval and went well with the cheese and olives supplied by Klaus and Yuli!
Then it was time to go to BED!
End of Day Three 

Discovering Azores Day 2: Around Peixe Do Rabo

Visit Downtown!
Morning came quickly for me as I was up around 5 AM and began my work on the last blog. Around 8:30 I went for the typical cheese, jam and fruit breakfast at Minuvida followed by heaping amounts of coffee.
Shortly after breakfast a walk was in order and off it was to the downtown area of Peixe Do Rabo which was a half mile or so down the steep hill from Minuvida.
Peixe Do Rabo
The name literally means "tail of the fish" and according to sources it was so named for either the shape of the land mass which seems to be the tail of a fish or because a tail of an unknown species of fish was discovered in the area. I would opt for the former explanation.
The town is well known as a fishing village and the market is a very busy place when open. Grocery stores carry a wide variety of goods as does the local pharmacy. The town is small but has much to offer.
One thing that never escapes me is the hospitality the local citizens show those who are visiting. The other thing that always confounds me is the preoccupation that Europeans etc. have with Espresso coffee. I stopped in a snack bar to have a coffee. The counter person gave me an Espresso in a cup that looked like a thimble. One shot and it was gone. I have been told to explicitly state Cafe Americano if  I wanted a regular coffee. Good to know! You would think that with all my travels I would now be privy to that but one does forget!
One point of interest in town was the local church "Senhor Bom Jesus" which was started in the mid 17th Century and finished some one hundred years later in the late 18th Century. The fish market with myriads of fish brought in by the local fishermen is also a place to visit.
Dinner With An Amazing Group
The day was basically a lazy do nothing day unless you would call the walk back UP the hill lazy! One thing that are not available on the city streets is sidewalks of any sort. One has to be aware while walking up the narrow wall lined streets of any European nature and this town was no different. Cars zip around at quick pace speeds and walking up a steep hill while trying to watch out for wayward vehicles can be unnerving. Survival was successful however.
Minuvida treated its guests to a dinner night with a marvelous meal made up of local appetizers, home grown greens, delicious soup made from home grown products, a superb fish dinner and home made chocolate dessert with a citrus orange bottom entree. Here is the menu:
Appetizer: Cheese, wild herbs, Bolo de Serta, Pear, Meloa
Soup: Wild Spinach, Potato Cream
Salad: Fresh Organic Greens with sauteed Loquat, Pumpkin Seed and lemon-chocolate mint vinaigrette
Main Course: Sauteed Black-tail Comber (fish) over Courgette-Inhale sauce with Molho de Vilhao and Lemon air.
Desert: Dark Chocolate mousse with Orange Jam and Maria.
Wine: A Quinta da Jardinete Sauvignon Blanc/Fernao Pires was exquisite with both salad and soup while a Quinta da Jardinete Chardonnay was superb with the fish. Dessert was accompanied by home made Guava Brandy and Liqueur.
Endless Life Experiences 
An awesome array of life experiences was displayed by the group of people at the dinner table. There was Klaus and his partner Uli who were visiting from Cologne, Germany. He was a carpenter/cabinet maker who did complicated work for large companies such as "Glock" of pistol weapon fame. He was also a Bag Pipe Band player who took part in many events featuring the bag pipe instruments of Scottish fame. A Bag Piper from Germany?! Imagine that and him playing "Amazing Grace" to booth!  He was a super interesting person who also had experience working with the disabled. A great conversationalist.
His partner Uli is equally interesting with a very responsible job. She is a Radiation Physicist who works for a Cancer Laboratory and Treatment Centre. She is in charge of the treatment machines and does the minute calculations for all patient treatment. Wouldn't want that job's responsibility. Apparently she is magnificent at it!  
There was Hilary and her partner Cormak both Buddhists who run a retreat centre in Massachusetts and with a world of experience in other parts of the Globe. Cormak dealt with some pretty serious topics since he did work with those who had terminal illnesses.
I was astounded to learn that Hilary at the young age of 33 had been to so many parts of the World including Nepal, India and Thailand. Hilary who was also a Harvard graduate, came also to do a Meditation Class for Minuvida. 
Then there was Amit from Israel who ran a Publishing Company in Israel but had just come back from working on a conservation/animal protection project in South Africa.
Of course one cannot omit Minuvida owners Rimi and Joao who met in Boston and came back to Joao's home country to develop a business at Minuvida. So many stories and so many interesting people who came from various parts of the World to meet at this place. Life is surely so interesting.
We ate! We consumed!We shared stories! We laughed and we enjoyed the night.
We then went to bed and no pun intended-----"Bid each other a very good night!"
End of Day Two    

Discovering The Azores In Sao Miguel

Arrival in Ponta Delgada

The trip from Pearson International took just over five hours. The time was just after 6 am as the anticipation grew that soon we would be landing on the Island of Sao Miguel which is part of a chain of  volcanic islands  in what seems to be the middle of the Atlantic Ocean. They were discovered by Portuguese sailors several hundred years ago and have remained Portuguese since.

We had visited the island last year and "dipped our feet" in the warm waters of hospitality and beauty of the Azores (Acores in Portuguese). We found the feeling very inviting.

As the Azores Airlines Airbus 330 made its way to Joao Paulo 2nd Airport I looked out the window to see the bright red glow of the rising Sun rising against a sky that was transforming from the darkness of night to the blue beauty of a seemingly lovely day.

As the plane made its final decent I could make out the volcanic hills silhouetted in the distance giving a primitive "Kong Island" look to the approaching land mass.   

Ponta Delgada is a smaller airport which suited me just fine. Less security hassle and much less walking to find out where one was situated.

Customs and baggage procedure where a breeze compared today's security conscious mainstream.

We found our transportation in the form of Rui Pavao waiting with a sign  "Chuck and Darlene" which our hosts Remi and Joao Chakraborty of Quinta Minuvida, a resort/travel lodge, had sent to greet us. Some twenty minutes later we were greeting them and being escorted to our suite on the grounds on a very (200 year) old orange orchard now transformed into an ecological wonder with a myriad of trees such as fruit producing lemon, orange, guava, banana, cherry trees among many varieties.

The work that they had done since the last year was amazing and as we found out, much work was still to be done including a thematic Gazebo style solarium in the midst of their large property.

In addition to running their lodge, they also do tours and Rimi is a certified Yoga instructor who has a flourishing business with her classes.

It was nice to see this young couple doing so well and after we were settled in our spacious suite which came complete with kitchen and wood burning fireplace it was time for breakfast.

I was famished and the bread, cheese, fruit offerings which came from either their property of local establishments was delicious. Coffee as usual was  much welcome to my palate!

Later in the day we were given a formal tour of the property and then set out for a tour of the island first stopping for lunch.

Lunch At Emigrante

Emigrante is a little restaurant in the village which features exceptional food both from the sea and land. Pork, beef or fish such as the Fried Cod Fillet or Grouper were cooked to perfection.

My lunch consisted of a fabulous Rock Fish done to perfection accompanied with roast potatoes and vegetables. The sauce with this sublime fish was one that will water my mouth with the mere thought.  

Pico do Carvao: Lago do Carnario

After lunch we did the scenic route driving to Lagoa de Canario where we saw some amazing views consisting of a group volcanic craters with a multiple of crater lakes. The stretch of protected conservation area included foreign invasive plants such as Hydrangeas and Azaleas which added  a colourful charm to the country side. Japanese Cedar Forest is picturesque as well as commercially productive to the region. The incredible view from the (1500 metre) top volcanic crater was quite impressive. Whole villages complete with roads and tiny vehicles can be seen as microscopic entries in a Lilliputian scene.    

One point I should mention, the climb to see these lakes from the bottom of the ecological park that is part of the protected sanctuary is high and one needs to be in decent shape to do.

As drove to our next destination we encountered an old aqueduct that used to transfer water to the villages.Top of Form

Sete Cidades: King's View

 Sete Cidades (Seven Cities) is composed of two lakes in the center of a large volcanic crater  measuring   several kilometers in length and width.  The green and blue lakes are famous for their colours as well as their legend.

According to folklore they were created by the tears of a princess and her lover involved in a forbidden love . During their final visit they shed tears that formed the two lakes, each with a colour matching their eyes.

In reality, the blue lake is much deeper than the green lake thus affecting the colour it reflects from the sky.

These two lakes are part of a chain of volcanic craters and are full of lush vegetation such as flowering plants.   Ponta do Escalvado Remi and Joao then drove along a volcanic ridge looked down at the landscape below. Two places of unique spots that we stopped at were Ferraria where the ocean washed upon the huge expanse of lava rock. Hot springs made the ocean water quite warm and though the air surrounding us was mildly cool, the ocean was much warmer allowing for bikini clad girls to swim quite comfortably. The lava rock made walking a chore since one slip could mean a couple of nasty cuts. Next to the beach were signs announcing the danger of potential rock falls since the lava roak was quite brittle and loose in places. Our final tour spot was in a town called Mosterios. The surfer infested beach was sandy but the sand was all volcanic and black. I was told that during hot days the sand was very difficult to walk on as it retained the heat of the sun. We drove home along the north shore. Having been up for 36 hours straight since I did not sleep on the plane, I sleepily made my way to bed as soon as we got to Rabo de Peixe where we were staying.  Sleep came quickly!   END OF DAY ONE

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This Wine Country Is Situated Between Two Large Oceans

South Africa is situated between the Atlantic and Indian Oceans. Its generally Mediterranean climate makes it an ideal spot for vines to flourish.

The wine areas of South Africa stretch over the Western and Northern Cape for 500 kilometres (310 miles) west to east, and 680 kilometres (420 miles) north to south. There are many macro climate and vineyard soil types influenced by unique geography, which includes several inland mountain chains and valleys.    

A unique dry gale force wind known as the 'Cape Doctor' occurs during the spring and summer months, having a generally beneficial effect on the vines — protecting them from diseases which depend on moisture.

The 'quality control' system of South Africa called 'Wines of Origin' (WO) breaks down the wine areas into 'geographical units' which are broken down into 'regions', then 'districts', and then into 'wards'.   

Constantia, a suburb of Cape Town, is the oldest wine producer in South Africa (circa 1650) while the 'almost as old' Stellenbosch area, a few kilometres east of Cape Town, is regarded as one of the most important.  

Paarl, Tulbagh, Robertson, Worcester, Swartland, Wellington and Walker’s Bay are among other important districts.

The main grape grown is the white Chenin Blanc or 'Steen'. Cabernet Sauvignon is the most planted red variety, though other international types are making headway.

The one true South African 'crossing' of Pinot Noir and Cinsault grapes called Pinotage can make a variety of wine styles depending on the winemaker’s whim.

In the last 10 or so years, South Africa’s wine prominence has grown remarkably, making it one of the most important wine countries in the Southern Hemisphere.

South African wine can be very reasonable. The white Two Oceans Sauvignon Blanc (LCBO #340380, $9.95) offers great quality and price ratios with gooseberry, herbal and citrus flavours. It would go very well with fish dishes, nuts, oriental food and shellfish.

The red Two Oceans Shiraz (LCBO #699249, $10) has flavours of plum, spice, cherry and vanilla, making it ideal with pork, stews, pizza and pasta dishes.

Some of my very favourites is Nederberg Winemaster’s Sauvignon Blanc (LCBO  #382713 $11.95)  which is herbal, citrusy, gooseberry in flavour; Nederburg  Winemaster’s Shriaz (LCBO #427527, $12.95) which has dark fruit flavours of plum and blackberry and Nederburg Cabernet Saurvignon ( LCBO  #111526, $12.95) having red and dark fruit flavours of plum, cherry and red currants as well as anise! Some fine wines at some great prices.       

Other inexpensive, good quality South African wines are Durbanville Hills Sauvignon Blanc (LCBO #22251, $11.95), Flat Roof Manor Pinot Grigio (LCBO #27128, $11.95), Fleur du Cap Chardonnay (LCBO #358960, $12.95) and Fleur du Cap Cabernet Sauvignon (LCBO #457101, $12.95). All are great with the above mentioned meals.

Enjoy.

Chilean Wines Are Affected by the Humboldt Current

 The San Antonio and Casablanca Valleys in Chile are located within 80 kms of the Pacific Ocean and just west of the City of Santiago. Both are sub regions of the Aconcagua Wine Region and official cool climate viticultural areas. In addition to this, many wineries practice either sustained or organic viticulture whereby they are either certified as organic having fulfilled regulatory demands or operating according to the dictates of the local ecosystem (sustained).

The reason for the crisp, fresh Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir is the closeness of the two wine sub regions to the Pacific Ocean where the cool, Antarctic driven Humboldt Current brings on conditions more similar to that of a cooler Mediterranean climate than what their actual location (South Latitude 30 degrees). This puts it much closer to the Equator than other important vineyards in various parts of the World.

The cool morning fog and frequent clouds that cover both valleys is a boon to the production of crispy white and spicy red wine by allowing slower ripening of the grapes.

Along with Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir within both areas, Casablanca also cultures Merlot, Malbec, Cabernet Franc, Gewurztraminer, Riesling, Viognier and Pinot Gris.

Many a fine---and affordable--wine comes from these sub regions.

Last week while browsing around the Taunton Road Whitby LCBO, I found some very affordable Chilean wine under the Adobe “Banner” from the Emiliana Organic Vineyards located in the Casablanca Valley. 

The Adobe Reserva Sauvignon Blanc (LCBO #266049, $12.95) is affordable value that will please. The wine comes with herbal/gooseberry/apple/citrus lime flavours with a light to medium body and a crisp cleansing finish.

The Adobe Reserva Merlot (LCBO #322024, $12.95) has vegetal, dark fruit, pepper spice and vanilla flavours with a medium plus body and a combined blackberry/cedar finish. Hint if you get this wine open and decant about two hours prior to serving at a temp of 16 to 18 degrees Centigrade.

Excellent quality and reasonable price makes Chile something to consider for the upcoming Easter Season.