Discovering The Azores In Sao Miguel
Arrival in Ponta Delgada
The
trip from Pearson International took just over five hours. The time was just
after 6 am as the anticipation grew that soon we would be landing on the Island
of Sao Miguel which is part of a chain of volcanic islands in what seems to be the middle of the Atlantic
Ocean. They were discovered by Portuguese sailors several hundred years ago and
have remained Portuguese since.
We
had visited the island last year and "dipped our feet" in the warm
waters of hospitality and beauty of the Azores (Acores in Portuguese). We found
the feeling very inviting.
As
the Azores Airlines Airbus 330 made its way to Joao Paulo 2nd Airport I looked
out the window to see the bright red glow of the rising Sun rising against a
sky that was transforming from the darkness of night to the blue beauty of a
seemingly lovely day.
As
the plane made its final decent I could make out the volcanic hills silhouetted
in the distance giving a primitive "Kong Island" look to the approaching
land mass.
Ponta
Delgada is a smaller airport which suited me just fine. Less security hassle
and much less walking to find out where one was situated.
Customs
and baggage procedure where a breeze compared today's security conscious
mainstream.
We
found our transportation in the form of Rui Pavao waiting with a sign "Chuck and Darlene" which our hosts
Remi and Joao Chakraborty of Quinta Minuvida, a resort/travel lodge, had sent
to greet us. Some twenty minutes later we were greeting them and being escorted
to our suite on the grounds on a very (200 year) old orange orchard now
transformed into an ecological wonder with a myriad of trees such as fruit
producing lemon, orange, guava, banana, cherry trees among many varieties.
The
work that they had done since the last year was amazing and as we found out,
much work was still to be done including a thematic Gazebo style solarium in
the midst of their large property.
In
addition to running their lodge, they also do tours and Rimi is a certified
Yoga instructor who has a flourishing business with her classes.
It
was nice to see this young couple doing so well and after we were settled in
our spacious suite which came complete with kitchen and wood burning fireplace
it was time for breakfast.
I
was famished and the bread, cheese, fruit offerings which came from either
their property of local establishments was delicious. Coffee as usual was much welcome to my palate!
Later
in the day we were given a formal tour of the property and then set out for a
tour of the island first stopping for lunch.
Lunch At Emigrante
Emigrante
is a little restaurant in the village which features exceptional food both from
the sea and land. Pork, beef or fish such as the Fried Cod Fillet or Grouper
were cooked to perfection.
My
lunch consisted of a fabulous Rock Fish done to perfection accompanied with
roast potatoes and vegetables. The sauce with this sublime fish was one that
will water my mouth with the mere thought.
Pico do Carvao: Lago do Carnario
After
lunch we did the scenic route driving to Lagoa de Canario where we saw some
amazing views consisting of a group volcanic craters with a multiple of crater
lakes. The stretch of protected conservation area included foreign invasive plants such as Hydrangeas
and Azaleas which added a colourful
charm to the country side. Japanese Cedar Forest is picturesque as well as
commercially productive to the region. The incredible view from the (1500 metre)
top volcanic crater was quite impressive. Whole villages complete with roads
and tiny vehicles can be seen as microscopic entries in a Lilliputian scene.
One point
I should mention, the climb to see these lakes from the bottom of the
ecological park that is part of the protected sanctuary is high and one needs
to be in decent shape to do.
As drove
to our next destination we encountered an old aqueduct that used to transfer
water to the villages.
Sete Cidades: King's View
Sete Cidades (Seven Cities) is composed of two
lakes in the center of a large volcanic crater measuring
several kilometers in length and
width. The green and blue lakes are
famous for their colours as well as their legend.
According
to folklore they were
created by the tears of a princess and her lover involved in a forbidden love .
During their final visit they shed tears that formed the two lakes, each with a
colour matching their eyes.
In
reality, the blue lake is much deeper than the green lake thus affecting the
colour it reflects from the sky.
These
two lakes are part of a chain of volcanic craters and are full of lush
vegetation such as flowering plants.
Ponta do Escalvado
Remi and
Joao then drove along a volcanic ridge looked down at the landscape below.
Two
places of unique spots that we stopped at were Ferraria where the ocean
washed upon the huge expanse of lava rock. Hot springs made the ocean water
quite warm and though the air surrounding us was mildly cool, the ocean was
much warmer allowing for bikini clad girls to swim quite comfortably.
The
lava rock made walking a chore since one slip could mean a couple of nasty
cuts. Next to the beach were signs announcing the danger of potential rock
falls since the lava roak was quite brittle and loose in places.
Our
final tour spot was in a town called Mosterios. The surfer infested beach was
sandy but the sand was all volcanic and black. I was told that during hot
days the sand was very difficult to walk on as it retained the heat of the
sun.
We
drove home along the north shore. Having been up for 36 hours straight since
I did not sleep on the plane, I sleepily made my way to bed as soon as we got
to Rabo de Peixe where we were staying.
Sleep came quickly!
END OF DAY ONE
|
posted by Chuck Byers - Wine Consultant | 5:18 AM
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