Day Two: September 20th: Verona!
"Adventures In Wine Country" with Co-Hosts Chuck Byers and Greg Rist is a new series airing April 2010 on CHEX Television Channel 12 Durham and the Greater Toronto Area.
Verona With Maria Alias Bulldog Broccoli
(Our guide Maria quickly earned her name as "Bulldog"! Our trip would have been much less fruitful had it not been for her tireless efforts to secure the best in viewing sites and places to go!)
Verona is a city of about 250,000 and owes it importance both geographically and historically to the closeness to the Adige River and Lake Garda. The history of it as a town goes as far back as 550 BC and probably further. It became a Roman municipum (city) in 49BC. The city fell into many hands along the way: Visgoths, Lombards, a whole succession of city states and families, France and Austria. Finally, in 1866, it became part of Italy. The rest as we say, is history!
At 9 AM Maria picked us up and we formally began our tour of Verona. What struck me immediately was the extreme cleanliness of this city. The air was fresh and people where everywhere riding their bicycles, walking, talking, going to church, having ice creams, sitting on benches and just enjoying life. There seemed to be a love of life here!
The other thing that struck me was the conformity of buildings. No obtuse "sky scrapers", no mismatched buildings----everything seemed to fit. History was at every turn and every turn had a history.
The first place we went to was the lookout at Castel S. Pietro that overlooked the River Adige. One could see the City of Verona stretched out below including the bridges built by the Romans.
Maria also pointed out the ancient Roman theatre that was being restored and the Decumano Romano---a very straight road coming from Rome in ancient times. You could tell Roman roads because they were straight--all of them.
Roman ruins were found everywhere as a matter of fact, many present buildings were built upon the ruins. Every time a road is repaired or a building dug, ruins are found. It seems
that Verona is built upon a Roman city.
Carni Equine
At some point in history, when Verona was under siege, starving people had to eat and ended up eating the horses. The enjoyment of horse meat persisted (including donkey meat) and we found horse butchers called "Carni Equine" in the medieval part of the city. Maria recounted the story of one person who was eating at a restaurant and someone suggested that he have horse meat. "I am not a cannibal," he retorted. I didn't think that we as beef eaters could point the finger at those who ate meat I could see my daughter's Hunter horse staring me in the face every time I thought I could try some.
We then went to the Piazza delle Erbe where lovely frescoes from the 14th Century abounded. Across the road was the old 13/14th Century Jewish sector---now colourful buildings still in use as homes. Within the Piazza, the market flourished with all types of products for sale including some excellent Amarone which was standing upright in the hot, humid sunshine---why didn't I buy it? I wonder!!!
Romeo and Juliet
Every where we went there were references to Romeo and Juliet. Yes, these were fictitious characters in Shakespeare's (busts of him all over) famous play. However, they are supposedly based on real people and as Maria pointed out, the saga of "star crossed lovers" is not a rare one and was still going on to this day!
At the market and most other places could be seen "T" shirts with Romeo and Giulietta printed on them or on cups or on ash trays. Figurines abounded also. I felt like I was in dust collector's menagerie!
The Piazza also had its share of amusements. A large fountain was the focal point of many children that played within its flowing waters. Dogs jumped in and out of it and parents shook their heads at it. Watching from above were ancient statues who seemed to be laughing at the whole amusement scene below.
The Balcony
We decided to follow up the Piazza with a visit to the Balcony where it all started. There were myriads of tourists in this one little square underneath a balcony. It was hard to move since everyone wanted to take a look at the platform where the famous words were sounded. Greg couldn't help it and said "Okay Chuck, say the words!" That was the cue for the HAM in me to come out and while he filmed, I hammed up the words----"But soft! What light through yonder window breaks? It is the East and Juliet is the Sun!"
This was in front of a hundred or so tourists who probably couldn't have given a care what was said by anyone.
Then, there is the statue episode! There is a statue of Juliet right under the balcony. I guess legend has it that the persons who touch Juliet's breast will be lucky in love. People were fighting to get in line to touch this girl's boobs. Greg wanted to get a shot of it!
He did and then he wanted us to do it. Again, I hadn't touched a girl's breast for some time and even though it was an inanimate and much older woman, I succumbed to the temptation. Besides she looked okay to me. I touched them---didn't feel any different. Greg did it and smiled, smiled and smiled. Somehow I felt that I came out second in that venture!!!!
Juliet's Tomb
Okay! First of all Juliet's tomb is empty! Don't know where she is but she ain't there. Don't know why but we got the third degree from one of the officials about taking a television camera into the tomb. There was NOTHING else there but this empty piece of stonework that really looked like a feeding trough for horses. But---our guide Maria had to call some supervisor because her staff did not want us to take shots of an empty tomb. Can't figure it out. Hell! there wasn't even a statue with breasts to feel. Nope---an empty tomb and we got the third degree.
Where ever she was, I hope Juliet was happy. Maybe she was somewhere with Elvis and Michael Jackson but in her tomb she wasn't. Not that it would stop people from coming mind you. Many came and starred and took pictures---of an empty tomb. Bizarre!!!
If I were the persons in charge, I would at least cover the tomb and MAKE BELIEVE that there was a body in their. At least put a skeleton or something. But all there was and I guess will be is------an empty tomb. Not far from the tomb was a bust of Shakespeare and a dedication. Maybe he knew where Juliet was!
Piazza Dei Signori
Maria then took us to the Piazza dei Signori, a market square that housed buildings from the 13th, 14th, 15th and 16th Centuries. Buildings around it once belonged to those who held the seat of power in Verona and basically made up all the rules. A statue of Dante stood watching as multitudes of people walked around.
We stopped to have lunch at the Impero Pizzeria/Tattoria/Bar located within the square. I had a great "Smoked Veal With Tuna Paste and Capers" and Greg had the "Pizza With Sausage" and of course, I had coffee!
We then went on to see part of the "City underneath a City". Every time they dig it seems that Roman ruins are found. To prove this, all one needs is to walk along the excavated and "glassed"
areas where whole streets and buildings were exposed showing a way of life that existed two or more thousand years ago.
We parlayed about this and how people being people, whether it was two years ago or thousands of years ago, would talk about the usual things---government, wars, the economy and gossip.
One could imagine that instead of recent events in the Middle East, Elections and who was seeing who or got caught seeing who, the Romans would talk about the problems in the Middle East, Elections and who was seeing who and got caught seeing who. Nothing changes except the names and dress. People are people.
Roman Amphitheatre/Arena
Being over two thousand years old didn't stop this ancient one from having a rock concert that night. Dozens of persons were lining up to attend the event which was held in the almost intact amphitheatre. We took some great shots of the outside which, incidentally, was actually the inside supporting part of the arena. It seems that the rocks that made up the outer wall had been carried away over the centuries.
Wall or no wall, the place was fascinating to see and imaginations did stir. There were a couple of kids/men dressed as Roman soldiers as they greeted the public. I had a feeling that the the average Roman soldier could have easily taken ten like them in about ten minutes but they were there to publicize the concert.
We tried to go in to do some shots and again a government official rudely refused us permission to go in. Hello! The building is made of rock! We could in any way harm it any more than the Rock Band Crew workers did in facilitating the placement of speakers etc.
We just left. If the powers to be did not want positive marketing and publicity, who should we be to argue!
Maria showed us other sites such as the Ponti Pietra, a Roman era bridge that spanned the Adige river and the Ponti Scaligero where the view was outstanding. Castelvecchio, from the outside was also an interesting site both visually and historically. The red brick bridge and old castle looked almost an artists conception in a painting than a real thing. Almost too perfect to be real. Maria also pointed out the S. Zeno Basilica built in 900 AD.
There were other interesting items that caught my eye while touring with Maria and Greg.
First of all were these tiny piles of locks, attached to each other certain sections of the ponti or bridges. They were put there signed by lovers to signify undying love. The other was the state of family that one seldom sees in North America any more. Sunday was for families to roam and do things with each other. This seemed to be a central theme in Europe. "Only in Europe!" you say.
Pity!
Evening Dinner
Evening came quickly and we were picked up at 7 PM to go for dinner. Mr. Fasoletti and Maria took us to the Trattoria alla Ruota, a restaurant with a view to die for overlooking Negrar (part of Valpolicella. The establishment inside was eye catching and you could tell that the owners were proud of what they had.
The meal started with a special type of crisp bun with a type of Prosciutto or Lard on top. Delicious. I ordered as a first course Meat Filled Pasta with a Black Truffle Sauce. My second course was Lamb Cutlets. A salad selection with a cornucopia of various salad items including: Stuffed Zucchini, Stuffed Tomatoes, Pumpkin, Grilled Red Pepper, Broccoli, Green Salad and like was wheeled down and we chose what we wanted.
A special bread made at the restaurant and more reminiscent of small cookies in a way was also brought. The whole meal was decadently good. Greg, being the adventurous one, had the Rabbit Meat Balls as his main squeeze. Me---well I can be a bit of a "Gourmet Pansy" when it comes to these things. But, yah know! I want a good time also!!
The wine of the night chosen by Mr. Fasoletti was a Valpolicella Classico Superiore from Campo Morar by the great estate of Viviani.
This 2005 is from a single vineyard or "Cru". The wine was elegant and soft on the nose with hints of ripe fruit and toast. On the palate it had concentration, poise and elegance with black fruit flavours and a lovely, class finish.
Mr. Fasoletti also pointed out that since we were going to certain vineyards on our visits, he would choose only wines from vineyards we were not going to.
Nice choice!
END OF DAY TWO.
Verona With Maria Alias Bulldog Broccoli
(Our guide Maria quickly earned her name as "Bulldog"! Our trip would have been much less fruitful had it not been for her tireless efforts to secure the best in viewing sites and places to go!)
Verona is a city of about 250,000 and owes it importance both geographically and historically to the closeness to the Adige River and Lake Garda. The history of it as a town goes as far back as 550 BC and probably further. It became a Roman municipum (city) in 49BC. The city fell into many hands along the way: Visgoths, Lombards, a whole succession of city states and families, France and Austria. Finally, in 1866, it became part of Italy. The rest as we say, is history!
At 9 AM Maria picked us up and we formally began our tour of Verona. What struck me immediately was the extreme cleanliness of this city. The air was fresh and people where everywhere riding their bicycles, walking, talking, going to church, having ice creams, sitting on benches and just enjoying life. There seemed to be a love of life here!
The other thing that struck me was the conformity of buildings. No obtuse "sky scrapers", no mismatched buildings----everything seemed to fit. History was at every turn and every turn had a history.
The first place we went to was the lookout at Castel S. Pietro that overlooked the River Adige. One could see the City of Verona stretched out below including the bridges built by the Romans.
Maria also pointed out the ancient Roman theatre that was being restored and the Decumano Romano---a very straight road coming from Rome in ancient times. You could tell Roman roads because they were straight--all of them.
Roman ruins were found everywhere as a matter of fact, many present buildings were built upon the ruins. Every time a road is repaired or a building dug, ruins are found. It seems
that Verona is built upon a Roman city.
Carni Equine
At some point in history, when Verona was under siege, starving people had to eat and ended up eating the horses. The enjoyment of horse meat persisted (including donkey meat) and we found horse butchers called "Carni Equine" in the medieval part of the city. Maria recounted the story of one person who was eating at a restaurant and someone suggested that he have horse meat. "I am not a cannibal," he retorted. I didn't think that we as beef eaters could point the finger at those who ate meat I could see my daughter's Hunter horse staring me in the face every time I thought I could try some.
We then went to the Piazza delle Erbe where lovely frescoes from the 14th Century abounded. Across the road was the old 13/14th Century Jewish sector---now colourful buildings still in use as homes. Within the Piazza, the market flourished with all types of products for sale including some excellent Amarone which was standing upright in the hot, humid sunshine---why didn't I buy it? I wonder!!!
Romeo and Juliet
Every where we went there were references to Romeo and Juliet. Yes, these were fictitious characters in Shakespeare's (busts of him all over) famous play. However, they are supposedly based on real people and as Maria pointed out, the saga of "star crossed lovers" is not a rare one and was still going on to this day!
At the market and most other places could be seen "T" shirts with Romeo and Giulietta printed on them or on cups or on ash trays. Figurines abounded also. I felt like I was in dust collector's menagerie!
The Piazza also had its share of amusements. A large fountain was the focal point of many children that played within its flowing waters. Dogs jumped in and out of it and parents shook their heads at it. Watching from above were ancient statues who seemed to be laughing at the whole amusement scene below.
The Balcony
We decided to follow up the Piazza with a visit to the Balcony where it all started. There were myriads of tourists in this one little square underneath a balcony. It was hard to move since everyone wanted to take a look at the platform where the famous words were sounded. Greg couldn't help it and said "Okay Chuck, say the words!" That was the cue for the HAM in me to come out and while he filmed, I hammed up the words----"But soft! What light through yonder window breaks? It is the East and Juliet is the Sun!"
This was in front of a hundred or so tourists who probably couldn't have given a care what was said by anyone.
Then, there is the statue episode! There is a statue of Juliet right under the balcony. I guess legend has it that the persons who touch Juliet's breast will be lucky in love. People were fighting to get in line to touch this girl's boobs. Greg wanted to get a shot of it!
He did and then he wanted us to do it. Again, I hadn't touched a girl's breast for some time and even though it was an inanimate and much older woman, I succumbed to the temptation. Besides she looked okay to me. I touched them---didn't feel any different. Greg did it and smiled, smiled and smiled. Somehow I felt that I came out second in that venture!!!!
Juliet's Tomb
Okay! First of all Juliet's tomb is empty! Don't know where she is but she ain't there. Don't know why but we got the third degree from one of the officials about taking a television camera into the tomb. There was NOTHING else there but this empty piece of stonework that really looked like a feeding trough for horses. But---our guide Maria had to call some supervisor because her staff did not want us to take shots of an empty tomb. Can't figure it out. Hell! there wasn't even a statue with breasts to feel. Nope---an empty tomb and we got the third degree.
Where ever she was, I hope Juliet was happy. Maybe she was somewhere with Elvis and Michael Jackson but in her tomb she wasn't. Not that it would stop people from coming mind you. Many came and starred and took pictures---of an empty tomb. Bizarre!!!
If I were the persons in charge, I would at least cover the tomb and MAKE BELIEVE that there was a body in their. At least put a skeleton or something. But all there was and I guess will be is------an empty tomb. Not far from the tomb was a bust of Shakespeare and a dedication. Maybe he knew where Juliet was!
Piazza Dei Signori
Maria then took us to the Piazza dei Signori, a market square that housed buildings from the 13th, 14th, 15th and 16th Centuries. Buildings around it once belonged to those who held the seat of power in Verona and basically made up all the rules. A statue of Dante stood watching as multitudes of people walked around.
We stopped to have lunch at the Impero Pizzeria/Tattoria/Bar located within the square. I had a great "Smoked Veal With Tuna Paste and Capers" and Greg had the "Pizza With Sausage" and of course, I had coffee!
We then went on to see part of the "City underneath a City". Every time they dig it seems that Roman ruins are found. To prove this, all one needs is to walk along the excavated and "glassed"
areas where whole streets and buildings were exposed showing a way of life that existed two or more thousand years ago.
We parlayed about this and how people being people, whether it was two years ago or thousands of years ago, would talk about the usual things---government, wars, the economy and gossip.
One could imagine that instead of recent events in the Middle East, Elections and who was seeing who or got caught seeing who, the Romans would talk about the problems in the Middle East, Elections and who was seeing who and got caught seeing who. Nothing changes except the names and dress. People are people.
Roman Amphitheatre/Arena
Being over two thousand years old didn't stop this ancient one from having a rock concert that night. Dozens of persons were lining up to attend the event which was held in the almost intact amphitheatre. We took some great shots of the outside which, incidentally, was actually the inside supporting part of the arena. It seems that the rocks that made up the outer wall had been carried away over the centuries.
Wall or no wall, the place was fascinating to see and imaginations did stir. There were a couple of kids/men dressed as Roman soldiers as they greeted the public. I had a feeling that the the average Roman soldier could have easily taken ten like them in about ten minutes but they were there to publicize the concert.
We tried to go in to do some shots and again a government official rudely refused us permission to go in. Hello! The building is made of rock! We could in any way harm it any more than the Rock Band Crew workers did in facilitating the placement of speakers etc.
We just left. If the powers to be did not want positive marketing and publicity, who should we be to argue!
Maria showed us other sites such as the Ponti Pietra, a Roman era bridge that spanned the Adige river and the Ponti Scaligero where the view was outstanding. Castelvecchio, from the outside was also an interesting site both visually and historically. The red brick bridge and old castle looked almost an artists conception in a painting than a real thing. Almost too perfect to be real. Maria also pointed out the S. Zeno Basilica built in 900 AD.
There were other interesting items that caught my eye while touring with Maria and Greg.
First of all were these tiny piles of locks, attached to each other certain sections of the ponti or bridges. They were put there signed by lovers to signify undying love. The other was the state of family that one seldom sees in North America any more. Sunday was for families to roam and do things with each other. This seemed to be a central theme in Europe. "Only in Europe!" you say.
Pity!
Evening Dinner
Evening came quickly and we were picked up at 7 PM to go for dinner. Mr. Fasoletti and Maria took us to the Trattoria alla Ruota, a restaurant with a view to die for overlooking Negrar (part of Valpolicella. The establishment inside was eye catching and you could tell that the owners were proud of what they had.
The meal started with a special type of crisp bun with a type of Prosciutto or Lard on top. Delicious. I ordered as a first course Meat Filled Pasta with a Black Truffle Sauce. My second course was Lamb Cutlets. A salad selection with a cornucopia of various salad items including: Stuffed Zucchini, Stuffed Tomatoes, Pumpkin, Grilled Red Pepper, Broccoli, Green Salad and like was wheeled down and we chose what we wanted.
A special bread made at the restaurant and more reminiscent of small cookies in a way was also brought. The whole meal was decadently good. Greg, being the adventurous one, had the Rabbit Meat Balls as his main squeeze. Me---well I can be a bit of a "Gourmet Pansy" when it comes to these things. But, yah know! I want a good time also!!
The wine of the night chosen by Mr. Fasoletti was a Valpolicella Classico Superiore from Campo Morar by the great estate of Viviani.
This 2005 is from a single vineyard or "Cru". The wine was elegant and soft on the nose with hints of ripe fruit and toast. On the palate it had concentration, poise and elegance with black fruit flavours and a lovely, class finish.
Mr. Fasoletti also pointed out that since we were going to certain vineyards on our visits, he would choose only wines from vineyards we were not going to.
Nice choice!
END OF DAY TWO.
posted by Chuck Byers - Wine Consultant | 9:19 AM
<< Home