DAY ONE: September 13th: Welcome to Umbria
"Adventures In Wine Country" with Co-Hosts Chuck Byers and Greg Rist is a new series airing in April 2010 on CHEX Television Channel 12 Durham and the Greater Toronto Area.
Imagine This!
A country cottage hotel of sorts. Rustically beautiful like the type you would expect in Tuscany or even in Provence. The room is a suite (again of sorts) with terra cotta floors, country furniture, cooking area (fridge, stove, utensils), outdoor patio, the best scenery in the world and a swimming pool to boot! Across the road is a vineyard which the hotel is named after and the scenery below this hill is what the 'Year In----' movies are trying to depict. Add to that a lovely manager with the name of Elisa and I give you perfection.
I got up early this morning and went for a walk. In the dawn hours, when the light was just breaking through the silence that is Fabbri, a small village not far from Montefalco, the only sound was the sweet twitter and songs of the birds and the occassional dog barking. The view from almost any part of the road was of majestic hills partially shrouded in the mist as the prevailing sun tried to force its light past one of them.
On one side of the road was the Rocca di Fabbri vineyard and on the other was a grove of olive trees. I went and had breakfast and then prepared for the coming day.
A small terrier dog could be seen by me about 100 yards ahead of me. It was looking at me and wagging its tail. I gave it a call. The little fellow came scamping down to me and after sizing me up, came up a bit more and greeted me, both paws on my waist and allowed me to pet it.
"Italian dogs are friendly!", I said to myself.
I walked for awhile waiting for breakfast. When there I met some cyclists who were touring Umbria. They were Australian. "Too bad my daughter Taryn was not here" crossed my mind!
Monica
Monica Latini approached Greg and me. She was 5'5" in height and very pretty. I wondered if all the guides were lovely since I had not come across anything but in my travels through Europe.
Her English was ab0ve average and spoken with a cute Italian accent.
Monica was as competent as she was lovely. She had arranged for a superb quarters for us and her itinerary was bang on great. We were off under her care.
Bocale
The first place we went to was a winery called Bocale (which as it turned out was a nick name used for the present owner's grandfather). Valentino Valentini is a young (35) father of one child and a very progressive and achieving person. He had already achieved the position of Mayor of his town as well as starting the Bocale Vineyard in 2002. While the vineyard was of a smaller nature, he was dead serious about making excellent wines. His grape assets were Merlot, Sangiovese and Sagrantino of which he made two wines: Bocale Montefalco Rosso and Bocale Montefalco Sagrantino.
He had already picked the Merlot and was about to pick the Sangiovese while the Sagrantino grape developped much later and was not going to be picked until October.
Picking is done by hand and the wines spend about 14 months in barrel and 12 months in bottle (Sagantino). The blended wine consisting of 15% each of Merlot and Sangiovese while Sagrantino held top dog at 70% consistency. That wine spent 6 months in barrique and 3 months bottle before being released. On thing that truly impressed me was that the vines were meticulously cared for. No haphazard cutting or dying vines here. The rows were perfect and the trimming was uniform. The grapes left on the vines were healthy and showed no signs of stress. Valentino Valentini (how's that for a name) the owner told me it was a pretty good year with ample rainfall and of course lots of sun. The grapes certainly passed the taste test with high sugar levels which I thought would give at least 13 to 14 % natural alcohol when fermented.
We went to the winery which was quite compact yet very functional for an estate this size (they produce about 15,000 bottles a year). The stainless steel fermentation tanks were smaller but it was like a large fully equipped winery shrunk down to a managable size. And it was also meticulous.
I really liked the bottle corker/labeller which, again, fitted the size of the estate. Greg took some shots of the estate/winery/corker and then we were off to taste the wines. (described at the end of this blog).
Cantina Novelli
The Novelli family is a large one and goes back many generations. Originally they were a farming family producing farm products and bread but they also made wine. This is where the present owner now is placing much hope.
Stefano Novelli, all six foot three or four of him, was waiting for us at his very modernistic winery when we drove into the parking lot. Again, he was young and had a young family with a lovely wife, a son and two daughters---all below the age of 12. The family is charming and we had the pleasure of having a lunch with them later.
"We have an agreement in our family that when I work Sundays, we have lunch together. Do you mind?" he asked. Why should I mind? The charm that his family welcomed us with could only serve to make the production better. On hand to meet us were:
The winery was up to date in all its equipment, having been open since 2000. The facility had several tasting areas and meeting places as well as a large formal room for luncheons/dinners.
While it was the Sagrantinogrape that brought me to Umbria, I found out that Umbria used to be known for its white grapes.
The Trebbiano Spoletino was grown for ages around the city of Spoleto in Umbria. The grape variety was much maligned by individual experts who viewed it via the grapes grown in other areas but to be factual, the grape variety in the Umbria area maintains pre-phylloxera genes. Ungraftedvines over 100 years old are grown along with other types of mixed agriculture.
The hope is that the Novelli family will be able to grow the Trebbiano Spoletino and make it a viable variety again.
The other thing that Stefano Novelli has in mind is the building of an Agri-Tourism winery with hotel room for 32 guests, food and wine matches at the winery. The plan is to welcome guests who wish to spend time at the winery and surrounding vineyards and tour the winery as well as buy wine and/or spend time with wine around the winery. The Novelli's certainly have room at this "state of the art" attraction.
Lunch
Lunch was a feast!
1st Course:
Proscuitto and Cheese (Novelli Rose Noir)
2nd Course
Strangozzi
with Truffles (Trebbiano Spoletino)
Main Course
Wild Boar
In Sagrantino Sauce (Sagrantino di Montefalco 2005/2006)
Dessert
Chocolate (Lightly Fermented Wine From Tank)
Cake
The meal was exceptional and I enjoyed it all too well. The matches were perfect and Greg really liked the Lightly Fermented (or fermenting) Wine. I also thought that the dessert chocolate went very well with the Sagrantino though I am not sure if any agreed with me. Taste is so personal!
When you consider that this winery is now only 9 years old but showing the maturity it doe already, I wonder what things will be like in 20?
We bid farewell to the Novelli family and then wet off to Montefalco where we were to visit "L'Alchimista Wine & Co." restaurant which is also a wine bar. Patrizzia, the owner, met us and led Greg---the aspiring chef of the day, to the kitchen so---he could cook. Greg prepared a version fo "Strangozzi with Cheese" If I wasn't so full, I would have eaten it since it actually turned out great.
We were very full to eat so we passed on dinner though Patrizzia prepared some sandwiches for us to take back with us in case our stomachs ever became empty again.
Museum
Finally, we met Maura Baldoni, a rather attractive (do they make anything other than attractive guides here????) who gave us a tour of the local museum and church. The history exhibited in this unique area (mostly middle ages but some much much older) against the backdrop of wine that was obvious, shows that wine and history are almost interchangeable. Sagrantino as a grape is documented to the early 14th Century. Schollars say that the grape was used to make wine by Rome itself. The paintings, statues, murals, artifacts all are a meeting place for wine, culture and history.
We were shown references to St. Francis of Assisi and the monks that served with him in the Franciscan Order which he created. The reality of these people set in when I saw and could touch objects that they may have touched and saw things they may have seen.
Wine making equipment used by the monks to make wine was still there. It was a mind numbing experience to be in the presence of so much history and culture in this magnificent city called Montefalco.
The day ended with Greg and I sharing a bottle of Sagrantino in our little patio just outside our rooms. We muched on our sandwiches and reflected how lucky we were to experience this atmosphere. Indeed: Wine is History. Wine is Geography. Wine is Sceince. Wine is Culture. Most of all Wine is People!!!
Wines
Bocale
Montefalco Rosso: A blend of Sangiovese (70%), Merlot (15%) and Sagrantino (15%). On the nose, red fruit some cassis and violet nuances with a touch of vanilla spice. On the palate, there is ripe red fruit and pepper spice with a powerful tannic touch and finish. The Merlot seems to be the first on the ball here especially on the nose but the Sangiovese follows behind closely with some of the cherry aromas but the Sagrantino gives an uppercut of tannin and power especially at the finish.
Sagrantino di Montefalco: Nice structure to the wine. Black berry, black cherry and plum with some wood vanilla spice. Great tannins to help wine age but also give it character.
Novelli
Rose de Noir: Traditional method wine with very small bubbles, strawberry and fieldberry fruit on nose with yeast nuances. Slightly tannic with good fruit flavours of strawberry, raspberry and cherry.
Trebbiano Spoletino: Nice looking colour with a herbal quality to the nose as well as melon, and nutty citrus flavour.
Sagrantino di Montefalco:Nice mouthfeel with a tannic structure evident clearly on the finish. Black fruit flavours and a touch of pine with some chocolate. Powerful lasting finish.
END OF DAY TWO
Imagine This!
A country cottage hotel of sorts. Rustically beautiful like the type you would expect in Tuscany or even in Provence. The room is a suite (again of sorts) with terra cotta floors, country furniture, cooking area (fridge, stove, utensils), outdoor patio, the best scenery in the world and a swimming pool to boot! Across the road is a vineyard which the hotel is named after and the scenery below this hill is what the 'Year In----' movies are trying to depict. Add to that a lovely manager with the name of Elisa and I give you perfection.
I got up early this morning and went for a walk. In the dawn hours, when the light was just breaking through the silence that is Fabbri, a small village not far from Montefalco, the only sound was the sweet twitter and songs of the birds and the occassional dog barking. The view from almost any part of the road was of majestic hills partially shrouded in the mist as the prevailing sun tried to force its light past one of them.
On one side of the road was the Rocca di Fabbri vineyard and on the other was a grove of olive trees. I went and had breakfast and then prepared for the coming day.
A small terrier dog could be seen by me about 100 yards ahead of me. It was looking at me and wagging its tail. I gave it a call. The little fellow came scamping down to me and after sizing me up, came up a bit more and greeted me, both paws on my waist and allowed me to pet it.
"Italian dogs are friendly!", I said to myself.
I walked for awhile waiting for breakfast. When there I met some cyclists who were touring Umbria. They were Australian. "Too bad my daughter Taryn was not here" crossed my mind!
Monica
Monica Latini approached Greg and me. She was 5'5" in height and very pretty. I wondered if all the guides were lovely since I had not come across anything but in my travels through Europe.
Her English was ab0ve average and spoken with a cute Italian accent.
Monica was as competent as she was lovely. She had arranged for a superb quarters for us and her itinerary was bang on great. We were off under her care.
Bocale
The first place we went to was a winery called Bocale (which as it turned out was a nick name used for the present owner's grandfather). Valentino Valentini is a young (35) father of one child and a very progressive and achieving person. He had already achieved the position of Mayor of his town as well as starting the Bocale Vineyard in 2002. While the vineyard was of a smaller nature, he was dead serious about making excellent wines. His grape assets were Merlot, Sangiovese and Sagrantino of which he made two wines: Bocale Montefalco Rosso and Bocale Montefalco Sagrantino.
He had already picked the Merlot and was about to pick the Sangiovese while the Sagrantino grape developped much later and was not going to be picked until October.
Picking is done by hand and the wines spend about 14 months in barrel and 12 months in bottle (Sagantino). The blended wine consisting of 15% each of Merlot and Sangiovese while Sagrantino held top dog at 70% consistency. That wine spent 6 months in barrique and 3 months bottle before being released. On thing that truly impressed me was that the vines were meticulously cared for. No haphazard cutting or dying vines here. The rows were perfect and the trimming was uniform. The grapes left on the vines were healthy and showed no signs of stress. Valentino Valentini (how's that for a name) the owner told me it was a pretty good year with ample rainfall and of course lots of sun. The grapes certainly passed the taste test with high sugar levels which I thought would give at least 13 to 14 % natural alcohol when fermented.
We went to the winery which was quite compact yet very functional for an estate this size (they produce about 15,000 bottles a year). The stainless steel fermentation tanks were smaller but it was like a large fully equipped winery shrunk down to a managable size. And it was also meticulous.
I really liked the bottle corker/labeller which, again, fitted the size of the estate. Greg took some shots of the estate/winery/corker and then we were off to taste the wines. (described at the end of this blog).
Cantina Novelli
The Novelli family is a large one and goes back many generations. Originally they were a farming family producing farm products and bread but they also made wine. This is where the present owner now is placing much hope.
Stefano Novelli, all six foot three or four of him, was waiting for us at his very modernistic winery when we drove into the parking lot. Again, he was young and had a young family with a lovely wife, a son and two daughters---all below the age of 12. The family is charming and we had the pleasure of having a lunch with them later.
"We have an agreement in our family that when I work Sundays, we have lunch together. Do you mind?" he asked. Why should I mind? The charm that his family welcomed us with could only serve to make the production better. On hand to meet us were:
The winery was up to date in all its equipment, having been open since 2000. The facility had several tasting areas and meeting places as well as a large formal room for luncheons/dinners.
While it was the Sagrantinogrape that brought me to Umbria, I found out that Umbria used to be known for its white grapes.
The Trebbiano Spoletino was grown for ages around the city of Spoleto in Umbria. The grape variety was much maligned by individual experts who viewed it via the grapes grown in other areas but to be factual, the grape variety in the Umbria area maintains pre-phylloxera genes. Ungraftedvines over 100 years old are grown along with other types of mixed agriculture.
The hope is that the Novelli family will be able to grow the Trebbiano Spoletino and make it a viable variety again.
The other thing that Stefano Novelli has in mind is the building of an Agri-Tourism winery with hotel room for 32 guests, food and wine matches at the winery. The plan is to welcome guests who wish to spend time at the winery and surrounding vineyards and tour the winery as well as buy wine and/or spend time with wine around the winery. The Novelli's certainly have room at this "state of the art" attraction.
Lunch
Lunch was a feast!
1st Course:
Proscuitto and Cheese (Novelli Rose Noir)
2nd Course
Strangozzi
with Truffles (Trebbiano Spoletino)
Main Course
Wild Boar
In Sagrantino Sauce (Sagrantino di Montefalco 2005/2006)
Dessert
Chocolate (Lightly Fermented Wine From Tank)
Cake
The meal was exceptional and I enjoyed it all too well. The matches were perfect and Greg really liked the Lightly Fermented (or fermenting) Wine. I also thought that the dessert chocolate went very well with the Sagrantino though I am not sure if any agreed with me. Taste is so personal!
When you consider that this winery is now only 9 years old but showing the maturity it doe already, I wonder what things will be like in 20?
We bid farewell to the Novelli family and then wet off to Montefalco where we were to visit "L'Alchimista Wine & Co." restaurant which is also a wine bar. Patrizzia, the owner, met us and led Greg---the aspiring chef of the day, to the kitchen so---he could cook. Greg prepared a version fo "Strangozzi with Cheese" If I wasn't so full, I would have eaten it since it actually turned out great.
We were very full to eat so we passed on dinner though Patrizzia prepared some sandwiches for us to take back with us in case our stomachs ever became empty again.
Museum
Finally, we met Maura Baldoni, a rather attractive (do they make anything other than attractive guides here????) who gave us a tour of the local museum and church. The history exhibited in this unique area (mostly middle ages but some much much older) against the backdrop of wine that was obvious, shows that wine and history are almost interchangeable. Sagrantino as a grape is documented to the early 14th Century. Schollars say that the grape was used to make wine by Rome itself. The paintings, statues, murals, artifacts all are a meeting place for wine, culture and history.
We were shown references to St. Francis of Assisi and the monks that served with him in the Franciscan Order which he created. The reality of these people set in when I saw and could touch objects that they may have touched and saw things they may have seen.
Wine making equipment used by the monks to make wine was still there. It was a mind numbing experience to be in the presence of so much history and culture in this magnificent city called Montefalco.
The day ended with Greg and I sharing a bottle of Sagrantino in our little patio just outside our rooms. We muched on our sandwiches and reflected how lucky we were to experience this atmosphere. Indeed: Wine is History. Wine is Geography. Wine is Sceince. Wine is Culture. Most of all Wine is People!!!
Wines
Bocale
Montefalco Rosso: A blend of Sangiovese (70%), Merlot (15%) and Sagrantino (15%). On the nose, red fruit some cassis and violet nuances with a touch of vanilla spice. On the palate, there is ripe red fruit and pepper spice with a powerful tannic touch and finish. The Merlot seems to be the first on the ball here especially on the nose but the Sangiovese follows behind closely with some of the cherry aromas but the Sagrantino gives an uppercut of tannin and power especially at the finish.
Sagrantino di Montefalco: Nice structure to the wine. Black berry, black cherry and plum with some wood vanilla spice. Great tannins to help wine age but also give it character.
Novelli
Rose de Noir: Traditional method wine with very small bubbles, strawberry and fieldberry fruit on nose with yeast nuances. Slightly tannic with good fruit flavours of strawberry, raspberry and cherry.
Trebbiano Spoletino: Nice looking colour with a herbal quality to the nose as well as melon, and nutty citrus flavour.
Sagrantino di Montefalco:Nice mouthfeel with a tannic structure evident clearly on the finish. Black fruit flavours and a touch of pine with some chocolate. Powerful lasting finish.
END OF DAY TWO
posted by Chuck Byers - Wine Consultant | 1:43 PM
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