Name:
Location: Whitby, Ontario, Canada

Born in Malta but in Canada since age 5. Has written three books and presently does several columns about wine and food for various magazines.

Wednesday, September 16, 2009

Day Three: September 15: Vini Rocca di Fabbri

"Adventures In Wine Country" with Co-Hosts Chuck Byers and Greg Rist is a new series airing on April of 2010 on CHEX Television Durham and the Greater Toronto Area.



Rocca di Fabri Winery
Not far from Villa Subretia, our hotel, was Rocca di Fabbri--a winery owned by the same individuals who were the proprietors of the hotel. Rocca di Fabbri is situated high on a hill at the centre of the town of Fabbri. The winery proper is a 14th Century fortress and is a fitting reminder of the history in this area. Roberta Vitali is in charge of the production in this winery that not only produces superb wines but does it in style.
The vineyards in this area were planted by Benedictine monks where they planted the Sagrantino and Grechetto vines and made wine. These wines which were sweet for centuries and served on religious occasions, found their way to the homes of many who were both of noble and simple birth. Now, with the introduction and addition of the great dry Sagrantino wines, they are reaching out to those across the world and Fabri is at the helm both historically and viticulturally.
As a student of both wines and history I was impressed by the dominance of the magnificent Fortress that stood resplendent in the sun with its white walls shimmering. The history was evident but what was equally evident was the seriousness in the way the building has been modernized to show its wines without changing its historical significance. Indeed, Roberta and her sister have done a splendid job in blending not only the wine but the old with the new.
Romeo Mancini
Having a name like the above should be enough to be a romantic but Romeo Mancini is also a passionate man. His passion is wine and he proves it with every word he says in describing wines---especially the wines of Fabbri.
An accountant by trade, he is also an accomplished Sommelier with a credentialed knowledge of wine. I had the fortune to go to one of his tastings and felt quite comfortable being there as he described the wines of Fabbri.
The Wines
Montefalco Rosso 2007: Quite young but already pleasant. Red cherry, vanilla, some herbal spice and a touch of anise on the nose. On the palate: round in the mouth, red/black fruit with cassis and some pepper on the finish. What I like is that Sagrantino always seems to come up in the end and say "forget the Sangiovese and Merlot, I am here!"
Montefalco Rosso 2006: The tannins of this one were a bit more aggressive. The wine had red cherry on the nose with some currant and strawberry. On the palate there seemed to be sweet berry fruit and vanilla with a good form of concentration.
Montefalco Rosso 2005: The wine seemed a bit more elegant with blackcurrant, cassis and raspberry on the nose with a palate of ripe black and red fruit. The tannins were softer though still there. The wine had a good mouth feel and nice lingering finish.
Sagrantino 20h4: Ripe red and black fruit (black cherry, blackberry, plum) with a tannic palate but well integrated. Elegant with power still.
Sagrantino 2003: This time the wine seemed darker than the 2004 but had a mushroom aroma (which isn't bad) and earth. I also got leather and black currant. The palate had ripe cherry/raspberry flavours and a long finish of earth scents.
Sagrantino 2005: This was my favourite! Massive fruit and violets with mixed spice. The palate oozed of eatable tannins, ripe fruit flavours, pepper spice and an anise/liquorice finish.
A truly amazing wine that has years of life left and one that I would include in my collection of wines any day!
Passito de Sagrantino: Those who think that sweet wine is not serious must try this wine. Made from the Sagrantino grape in the style it was made years ago for Easter and special celebrations, this wine is not cloying at all. It has a refined sweetness that shows its qualifications. On the nose: liquorice/anise, cinnamon spice, berry and cherry aromas!
On the palate: sweet raspberry, cherry and liquorice. Pleasant sweet finish that lasts but does not overwhelm.
I look on the wines above as special wines for food and meditation. The Rosso di Montefalco is certainly one that matches well with many foods such as pork, beef and steak or even tomato pasta. The Sagrantino is a wine for serious food or special cheese. I like it with Boar in its own Sagrantino wine sauce. I would like it also with Elk or Buffalo---in other words it is a wine for big game yet can be a cheese specialty also. Older Sagrantino's such as the 2001's, 2's, 3's and 4's are also meditation wines. The 2005---I'll take anytime,anywhere on any occasion!!!!!!