Day Four (Part ONE): September 22:The World Of Pasqua

"Adventures In Wine Country" with Co-Hosts, Chuck Byers and Greg Rist is a new series airing in April of 2010 on CHEX Television Channel 12 Durham and the Greater Toronto Area."

San Felice
Located in Montoria withing the Valpantena area just north of Verona the San Felice Winery was certainly a dominating sight as entered the grounds. Carlotta Pasqua, daughter of Carlos Pasqua, welcomed us to the winery and led us into the main building which was the essence of modernity. The reception room reminded me much of Vincor's entrance at its headquarters in the City of Mississauga, Ontario. Large, spacious, professional and yet welcoming.
Carlotta took us on a visit to the San Felice Vineyard---an alluvial soil/limestone mix with a north/south exposure with a mixed type of canopy of Pergola and Espalier type. The vines looked quite healthy---especially those on the Pergolas.
We were then met by Carlos Pasqua. It was a very quick and informal introduction but the dignity of it was not lost. Mr. Pasqua was the epitome of elegance with an aristocratic and refined look. Soft spoken but authoritative, he gestured us to his vehicle. As we drove to the Castello di Montorio vineyard, which along with San Felice and several other vineyards makes up the Cecilia Beretta---a company that was created in the 1980's as an independent station dedicated to research and advancement towards the traditional wines of the Valpolicella and Soave regions.
Castello di Montorio
This vineyard intrigued both Greg and I from both a historical perspective as well as a pictorial and viticultural one. It is known for its archaeological finds that date back at least 2000 years. A wall reputed to be a boundary wall some 2 metres high is dated back to the Romans and many artifacts are constantly being found here.
We passed a large Mulberry tree just before we parked. The tree leaves were used to feed silk worms when these caterpillars were used in the production of silk. Atop the hill, the ancient castle or Castello still stood--a testament to the passage of time and a friendly reminder of our mortality. The grove of Olive trees, all quite old accentuated this. The Montorio vineyard had a north to east exposure and was used for the making of Amarone and Valpolicella Superiore as well as other quality wines. The grapes were harvested by hand carefully as not to damage the skins. Damage to the grapes could result in needless spoilage by starting fermentation early as well as attracting wasps, fruit flies or mosquitoes. Tractors followed the harvesters as they carefully filled the plastic pallet containers with grapes.
Mr. Pasqua brought attention to two facts that have happened quite recently. The first is that the Molinara grape variety had been deregulated to a subordinate status. The main grapes of Valpolicella now were the Corvina, Rondinella and Corvinone with several other grapes, including Molinara being used in much smaller percentages. The second thing he introduced us to was the Oseleta grape variety, a local red grape which was quite ancient and now making a comeback and now could be used as one of the alternatives. We were told that instead of the late ripening
and light coloured Molinara, other grapes such as the Oseleta, Croatina, Sangiovese, Rondinella and Corvina are being planted.
Tasting Wine
We went back to the San Felice where Carlotta and Mr. Pasqua spoke to a group of German wine merchants and distributors. Then we went on a quick tour of the winery proper. The winery was as it looked initially----a very up to date winery with many stainless steel fermenting tanks as well as large 30 hectolitre oak aging barrels mainly for Amarone . Other barrels ranged from 500 litre barriques to 25 litre oak.
We then ended up at the tasting room where we tried some of Pasqua's wines;
La Soraie
Select grapes from the "soravia" or top of the hill hence the name are dried for three months where they lose 30% of their water thus having a concentrate of much more sugar. This blend of
40/30/30 percent Merlot, Corvina and Cabernet Sauvignon in that order has a nose of black and red fruit mixed as well as vanilla and pepper spice. The palate has similar flavours and is so very soft and smooth enticing one to have another glass.
Surani, Primitivo di Manduria
Over ripened grapes left on vines and pressed immediately after picking and barrique aging for six to eight months gives a wine to red fruit with spice and a great mouth feel of roundness and mellow, soft but strong tannins. The finish is lingering.


Amarone Villa Borghetti
Nose: Black fruit such as currants, berries and vanilla. Palate: same as nose but with a rich taste that will develop as the wine ages.
Amarone "Terre di Cariano" single vineyard. 60% Corvina, 30% Rondinella, 5% Corvinone and 10% Croatina. Picked in September and dried on racks 'till January then fermented and aged up to two years in barriques and aged in bottle for another 12 months. Nose: Rich black fruits such as cherry and berry with chocolate, fig spice. Palate: Rich, full and round with similar fruits and fruit sweetness. Excellent length.
Lunch
Lunch was held at the winery where both we and the German guests were entertained. Carlotta sat with us where we started the meal with an aperitif wine
Wine: Pasqua Rose
Pleasant and refreshing with strawberry and cherry flavours. Nice refreshing finish.
Food Platter: Prosciutto, salami, cheese, porketta, polenta went well with the rose and what followed.
Wine: Pietrariccia Fiano from Campania (Naples): Nose of citrus/apple with some minerality. Easy on the palate but a bitter/refreshing finish that goes well with the food.
Meal: Tortalini
Wine:Villa Borghetti Ripasso 2007 Valpolicella Classico Marano:
Sweet tannins and wild cherry/currant flavours make this wine ideal with the tortalini. The wine is medium bodied and has a refreshing acidity.
Fruit Platter/coffee followed.