Madeira Is Exceptional Anyway you Put It!
Greg Rist, Producer at Rogers Television is always a fun guy to hang around with and yesterday was no exception. Greg and I met up at the Oshawa station and took off to The University Club Of Toronto located at 380 University Avenue, Toronto for a Madeira Tasting.
Geography and History
Known as the "Pearl of the Atlantic", tropical like Madeira is actually an Archipelago in the Atlantic that is made up of the islands of Madeira, Porto Santo, Desertas and Selvagens. The only inhabited islands are Madeira and Porto Santo while the other two are Bird Sanctuaries. The climate with ample sun, rainfall, spring like (between 60 and 80 degrees Farenheit) and lush vegetation make it a must for tourists.
The volcanic Archipelago, which is in the North Atlantic about 375 miles NW of Africa and 600 miles SSW of Portugal, was discovered in 1419 by Portuguese seamen (Remember Prince Henry in your studies?) and has since been a part of Portugal. Joao Goncalves Zarco and Tristao Vaz Teixeira both Portuguese sea captains followers of the mighty Navigator, Henry are credited with the colonization of this jewel. The rest, so to speak was history!
Wine
Colonizers (basically merchants and nobility) cleared the land and built water systems. They planted sugarcane, vines and wheat and within 25 years of their coming, were exporting wine. Madeira was an immediate hit and was enjoyed by such historic figures as George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, Benjamin Franklin, John Marshall (Chief Justice 1800) and Winston Churchill enjoyed it. The U.S.S. Constitution was christen with it in 1797 (It still floats to this day) and the brother of King Edward The Fourth of England was even executed in it!!!!
Madiera wine was initially fortified with sugar cane distillate in order for it to survive the long voyages to places such as India and East Indies. The wine, which was kept in barrels stacked in the ship's hold, went through changes being transformed by the actual voyage and tremendous heat that accumulated there. A movement that liked the taste of this wine grew and began preferring it. Since it was quite costly to send ships on expeditions just to develop the wine, more inexpensive methods where developed. These methods involve heating the wine in stainless steel vats with temperature of 113 degrees to 122 degrees Farenheit (45 to 50 degrees Centigrade) for periods of no less than 3 months and then let rest for 90 days or Canteiro where the wines are placed in barrel casks (usually French Oak) and stored in the top floors of the wine cellars where great heat accumulates. Here the wines remain for two years. The wines go through an oxidizing process and can be sold once three years elapses.
Depending on the style of wine that the wine maker wants to have, the wine fermentation is usually stopped by the adding of almost pure alcohol. The wines can be a blend or single varietal with vintage wine having 85% of the grapes come from the same harvest and in the case of a single variety wine (i.e. Malvvasia or Malmsey) 85 % being of that variety.
Madeira wines are classified as Dry, Medium Dry, Medium Rich or Rich. These levels usually coincide with the grape varieties used such as Sercial (dry), Verdelho (M/D), Boal (Rich/Sweet) or Malvasia (Rich/Very Sweet) though other grapes such as Negra Molle, Terrantez, Complexa, Bastardo and Moscatel. There may references describing the colour and richness (fino (fine), Aveludado (velevty), Macio (soft) in the wines.
The Event
The University Club of Toronto is a palatial looking building that is surrounded by modern Toronto. The building was built in 1929and is full of historical artifacts, bronze statues. The elaborate Greco Roman frescoes, columns and high ceilings depict a time when great pride was taken in one's education and degree. It's Neo-Georgian style of architecture was made in the tradition of London's (England) Boodle's Building.
There to meet Greg and I was William Delgado of the Portuguese Trade Commission was there to greet us and introduce us to the winery owners, winemakers and officials at this tasting.
Descended from some of the original colonists in the 15th Century and established in 1850, the family of Henriques & Henriques--Vinhos continues the 500 year history of making fine wine.
The Madeira Wine Company can be traced back to 1913 and the family of Vinhos Justino Henriques, Filhos has been established since 1870. These enterprises produced a cornucopia of wines that were amazing on the palate. Julio Fernandes of Vinhos Justino Henriques, Filhos took me on a journey through the various forms of Madeira starting with the Fine Dry Light Coloured 3 year Madeira to the Fine Dry 10 year, Fine Rich 3 year, Fine Rich 10 year, Malmsey 10 year old and finally the Justino Madeira Colheita 1995 which was truly amazing.
I found that even the Fine Dry sample to be somewhat fruity and sweeter than expected but dry enough with good acidity to be refreshing on the palate. The fine dry 10 year old was more elegant but equally refreshing. The two Fine Rich where higher in body and I denoted more caramel sweetness on the palate on a progressive scale. The Malmsey 10 year old was full bodied with sweet fig, burnt sugar, caramel and toffee nuances. Finally, the Justino Madeira Colheita 1995 was dark, elegant and aromatic with some magnificent flavours of dry fruit, toffee, coffee, nuts. Sweet with a lasting mouth feel.
I tasted other wines from the other contributors and came out with a super feeling of satisfaction. My satisfaction was even more pleased when I met Alex (Eberspaecher) at the tasting. Alex agreed to do a television interview concerning Madeira---informing the viewers of its history and formation. Always full of knowledge he continues to be ever productive in the wine and travel business. One point, Alex will never admit this but he is also a fine cook. He informed me that sprinkling Madeira on a roast, brings out the flavour and add much to it. So take it from the Alex and do so!
Conrad Ejbich well known for his writing and columns also dropped by to "learn more about Madeira". Here is a guy who could rightfully say he is an "expert's expert" when it comes to wine and food but insists he is on a quest for knowledge. Aren't we all! In fact, he is well respected by his peers and public alike. We all could stand much to learn from his example.
Greg and I finalized our trip by taking shots of us drinking some very expensive Blandy's Baul 1977 Madeira (light amber gold, sweet with lucious dry fig fruit and honey flavours tempered with live acidity. The wine had a great refreshing finish that lasted and lasted) with hostess Aniko (Pronounced A-nee-ko) I think that is the way she spelled it. On our way home, Greg suggested passing by his home for a fine lamb dinner co-assisted by his beautiful wife, Helen!
So ended a very eventful day!
Geography and History
Known as the "Pearl of the Atlantic", tropical like Madeira is actually an Archipelago in the Atlantic that is made up of the islands of Madeira, Porto Santo, Desertas and Selvagens. The only inhabited islands are Madeira and Porto Santo while the other two are Bird Sanctuaries. The climate with ample sun, rainfall, spring like (between 60 and 80 degrees Farenheit) and lush vegetation make it a must for tourists.
The volcanic Archipelago, which is in the North Atlantic about 375 miles NW of Africa and 600 miles SSW of Portugal, was discovered in 1419 by Portuguese seamen (Remember Prince Henry in your studies?) and has since been a part of Portugal. Joao Goncalves Zarco and Tristao Vaz Teixeira both Portuguese sea captains followers of the mighty Navigator, Henry are credited with the colonization of this jewel. The rest, so to speak was history!
Wine
Colonizers (basically merchants and nobility) cleared the land and built water systems. They planted sugarcane, vines and wheat and within 25 years of their coming, were exporting wine. Madeira was an immediate hit and was enjoyed by such historic figures as George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, Benjamin Franklin, John Marshall (Chief Justice 1800) and Winston Churchill enjoyed it. The U.S.S. Constitution was christen with it in 1797 (It still floats to this day) and the brother of King Edward The Fourth of England was even executed in it!!!!
Madiera wine was initially fortified with sugar cane distillate in order for it to survive the long voyages to places such as India and East Indies. The wine, which was kept in barrels stacked in the ship's hold, went through changes being transformed by the actual voyage and tremendous heat that accumulated there. A movement that liked the taste of this wine grew and began preferring it. Since it was quite costly to send ships on expeditions just to develop the wine, more inexpensive methods where developed. These methods involve heating the wine in stainless steel vats with temperature of 113 degrees to 122 degrees Farenheit (45 to 50 degrees Centigrade) for periods of no less than 3 months and then let rest for 90 days or Canteiro where the wines are placed in barrel casks (usually French Oak) and stored in the top floors of the wine cellars where great heat accumulates. Here the wines remain for two years. The wines go through an oxidizing process and can be sold once three years elapses.
Depending on the style of wine that the wine maker wants to have, the wine fermentation is usually stopped by the adding of almost pure alcohol. The wines can be a blend or single varietal with vintage wine having 85% of the grapes come from the same harvest and in the case of a single variety wine (i.e. Malvvasia or Malmsey) 85 % being of that variety.
Madeira wines are classified as Dry, Medium Dry, Medium Rich or Rich. These levels usually coincide with the grape varieties used such as Sercial (dry), Verdelho (M/D), Boal (Rich/Sweet) or Malvasia (Rich/Very Sweet) though other grapes such as Negra Molle, Terrantez, Complexa, Bastardo and Moscatel. There may references describing the colour and richness (fino (fine), Aveludado (velevty), Macio (soft) in the wines.
The Event
The University Club of Toronto is a palatial looking building that is surrounded by modern Toronto. The building was built in 1929and is full of historical artifacts, bronze statues. The elaborate Greco Roman frescoes, columns and high ceilings depict a time when great pride was taken in one's education and degree. It's Neo-Georgian style of architecture was made in the tradition of London's (England) Boodle's Building.
There to meet Greg and I was William Delgado of the Portuguese Trade Commission was there to greet us and introduce us to the winery owners, winemakers and officials at this tasting.
Descended from some of the original colonists in the 15th Century and established in 1850, the family of Henriques & Henriques--Vinhos continues the 500 year history of making fine wine.
The Madeira Wine Company can be traced back to 1913 and the family of Vinhos Justino Henriques, Filhos has been established since 1870. These enterprises produced a cornucopia of wines that were amazing on the palate. Julio Fernandes of Vinhos Justino Henriques, Filhos took me on a journey through the various forms of Madeira starting with the Fine Dry Light Coloured 3 year Madeira to the Fine Dry 10 year, Fine Rich 3 year, Fine Rich 10 year, Malmsey 10 year old and finally the Justino Madeira Colheita 1995 which was truly amazing.
I found that even the Fine Dry sample to be somewhat fruity and sweeter than expected but dry enough with good acidity to be refreshing on the palate. The fine dry 10 year old was more elegant but equally refreshing. The two Fine Rich where higher in body and I denoted more caramel sweetness on the palate on a progressive scale. The Malmsey 10 year old was full bodied with sweet fig, burnt sugar, caramel and toffee nuances. Finally, the Justino Madeira Colheita 1995 was dark, elegant and aromatic with some magnificent flavours of dry fruit, toffee, coffee, nuts. Sweet with a lasting mouth feel.
I tasted other wines from the other contributors and came out with a super feeling of satisfaction. My satisfaction was even more pleased when I met Alex (Eberspaecher) at the tasting. Alex agreed to do a television interview concerning Madeira---informing the viewers of its history and formation. Always full of knowledge he continues to be ever productive in the wine and travel business. One point, Alex will never admit this but he is also a fine cook. He informed me that sprinkling Madeira on a roast, brings out the flavour and add much to it. So take it from the Alex and do so!
Conrad Ejbich well known for his writing and columns also dropped by to "learn more about Madeira". Here is a guy who could rightfully say he is an "expert's expert" when it comes to wine and food but insists he is on a quest for knowledge. Aren't we all! In fact, he is well respected by his peers and public alike. We all could stand much to learn from his example.
Greg and I finalized our trip by taking shots of us drinking some very expensive Blandy's Baul 1977 Madeira (light amber gold, sweet with lucious dry fig fruit and honey flavours tempered with live acidity. The wine had a great refreshing finish that lasted and lasted) with hostess Aniko (Pronounced A-nee-ko) I think that is the way she spelled it. On our way home, Greg suggested passing by his home for a fine lamb dinner co-assisted by his beautiful wife, Helen!
So ended a very eventful day!
posted by Chuck Byers - Wine Consultant | 7:21 AM
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