Name:
Location: Whitby, Ontario, Canada

Born in Malta but in Canada since age 5. Has written three books and presently does several columns about wine and food for various magazines.

Tuesday, September 29, 2009

Day Six: September 24th: The Dynamic Wines Of Tommasi

"Adventures In Wine Country" with Co-Hosts Chuck Byers and Greg Rist is a new series airing in April 2010 on CHEX Television Channel 12 Durham and The Greater Toronto Area.

Pierangelo Tommasi
We drove up the gateway to the Tommasi Estate in San Ambrogio di Valpolicella. We knew that we were approaching a serious person here since we got a call from the winery to find out what we needed and what we had planned. There he stood-----Tall, slim and intense with a gaze of a Matador. His style and features reminded me of the character of Don Diego in the Zorro movie and like his wine at Tommasi, he seemed elegant yet strong.
To complete the picture Annalisa Armani, his Public Relations administrator, was the epitome of charm and grace. She was quite attractive also. Both of them seemed a team that knew what to do and when to do it.

Conca D'Oro
Literally means "Golden Shell" is in the prestigious hilly zone of the Valpolicella Clasico Region. It is called that because the topography gives the vineyard the appearance of a shell which is then bathed in sunlight. This vineyard is known for its magnificent fruit and has been meticulously researched and planted by Tommasi. This 8 hectare single vineyard "Cru" is planted with Corvina Veronese, Oseleta and Cabernet Franc.
From the summit of this vineyard one could clearly see the expanse of the Valpolicella valley with the Valpolicella hills spreading outward like outstretched fingers. It was a partially cloudy morning and the Sun tried hard to spread its own fingers of light, piercing its way through the mist and upon the interspersed villages below----every so often lighting up the white houses in the distance. The contrasting vegetation of Cypress Trees and vineyards took on new shades of green as the light illuminated them. It was an inspirational site.
"We re-planted and terraced when we purchased this vineyard!" Pierangelo said. "This vineyard is used for making Valpolicella Superiore Clasico Ripasso while our La Groletta vineyard produces the grapes destined to become Amarone."
Apparently, the Coca D'Oro gets a bit less sun exposure during the day than La Groletta and that makes all the difference. Both great vineyards are influenced: the Groletta is closer to Lake Garda and thus gets winds off the lake while the CocaD'Oro is influenced by winds coming off the Lessini Hills.

Villa Quaranta
If the vineayards weren't enough, Greg and i were taken to Villa Quantra, a five star hotel par excellence. This 20,000 square metre facility has 72 exceptional rooms, Conference Centre, Restaurant, Wellness Spa and Fitness Centre complete with Spa.
Outside there are lovely gardens, pools with water lilies, flowers and massive fountains. The whole environment is very grandiose.
Everything is super modern which is truly unique in the fact that this is a 17th Century building which is named after the people who used to own it.
Next to the restaurant and within the confines of the hotel is a functional 17th Century Chapel complete with original works of art including some elaborate "Stations of the Cross" depicting the
Passion and Crucifixion of Jesus Christ. The centre alter painting of the Circumcision is in great condition.
We then went to the Ristorante Borgo Antico where we had lunch.
After lunch we toured the very impressive barrel cellars where the Tommasi wines sleep. Just so well kept!!!
The whole time was an inspiration when one considers the company that we kept that day.
Wines of Tommasi (Lunch)
Valpolicella DOC 2008
Colour: Dark Garnet
Nose: Red Fruit mainly cherry/Vanilla Spice
Palate: Cherry, Nice Mouthfeel, Medium body, Pleasant finish

Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso DOC 2007 (Conca D'Oro Vineyard)
Colour:
Dark Red
Nose: Predominantly Red Cherry though some dark fruit hints. Spice
Palate: Soft, round and nice concentration. Red/dark fruit with lingering finish.

Amorone della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2005 (Groletta Vineyard)

Colour: Very Dark Red

Nose: Black Cherry, Currant, Spice

Palate: Full bodied, black fruit with nice sweetness, very long finish.

Dessert Wine

Recioto della Valpolicella Classico DOC (Fiorato Vineyard Tommasi's Oldest).

Colour: Dark Red

Nose: Sweet sensation, mellow, cigar, fig and sweet black fruit.

Palate: Round and mellow, fig and black fruit, chocolate.

Lunch at Borgo Antico Restaurant.

Appetizer

Lombata all'Amarone (cold cut pork loin refined in the amarone grape skins )
Salamino all'Amarone
( salami made with pork meat and amarone wine )
Main Entree
Bigoli alla Contadina: Home made thick spaghetti with a farmer style sauce made with fresh tomato, olives, aubergines and basil.
Formaggi della Lessinia, Cimbro cheese ( it is an old and typical cheese made with goat and cow milks ) refined 12 months in rosemary and sage
Monte Veronese Ubriaco cheese ( cow milk cheese refined in the amarone grappe skins... it's called "ubriaco" which means "drunk"

Desserts:
Foglie Feuille with Chantilly cream ( it the "flagship" dessert of Borgo Antico )
Chocolate hearts
Apple pie
Amaretto mousse
Home made cookies with raisins
Sbrisolona: short pastry with almonds, honey and a lot of butter ( this is very typical here )

END OF PART ONE