July 2nd----Day Four---Terras do Sado/Estremadura
For a whole account of the trip, scroll down to June 28th.
On To Terras do Sado!
Terras do Sado is a wine region that is almost surrounded by Alentejo. It is a designated VR or Vinho Regional very similar to the French Vin de Pays.
I woke up with a terrific appetite---still thinking about the delicious dinner we had the night before. Breakfast was welcoming and excellent. Martta joined us and we chatted about the Quinta, its horses, chapel and farm. Then it was time to go. We bid Martta and the staff a big thank you and good-by. We were off to Torres do Sado and Jose Maria Da Fonseca.
Greg and I took the time to snooze a bit while travelling the 2 hours to Azeitao.
We were met by Miguel Azevedo Remedio who I had met at the same location some three years prior. He escorted us to the old but picturesque courtyard of the Quinta and then beckoned us to a room which serviced like a museum of sorts.
The over 200 years of wine making by the same family was displayed in this room and had many artifacts and documents dating back to antiquity. For example: There were Bronze Medallions from the 1855 Paris Exhibition. I pointed out that this had special significance since it was during this year that the famous Bordeaux Classification was held----a classification that would affect how wine was treated and judged for the next century and more!
There was a thank you letter to Mr. Fonseca from then President Dwight D. Eisenhower as well as many photos going back nearly a century.
We toured the grounds and Mr. Remedio took us into the wine cellar.
A Real Wine Cellar
This was a true cellar. Very dark, lit by large iron chandeliers and "cobwebby", the cellar was what one imagines a wine cellar to be musty smell and all. There were barrels up to the ceiling We made our way through old barrels, some over a century old, with wine still sleeping inside. Throughout all this could be heard the soft voices of monks singing the "Gregorian Chant"! Of course it was piped music. but it was soothing and so "apropos"!
We made our way back to a wooden tablet with various dates dating back to the early 19th Century inscribed on it. "Are you getting this," I asked Greg who was busy filming as best he could in the dark. The reply was the quiet affirmation of a nod!
Beyond the tablets was an old----ancient iron gate through which we saw bottles obviously, very old. "This is the private family reserve!", Miguel mentioned. The door was locked and only one person had the key------The Key Keeper.
Apparently the Key Keeper is an ancestral position of an employee of the company. It was a father and son thing where by the Key would be passed down through the ages. Employee Turnover was not a problem at Jose Maria Da Fonseca. Only family members were allowed to go into this part of the cellar.
To our surprise Miguel Remedio called for the Key Keeper and within a few minutes were were strolling around visiting with sleeping history going back some 100 to 120 years. Dust covered the bottles. We were in awe. The monks chant was well chosen in this hallowed place!
Miguel mentioned, "Someone came in and wanted us to clean up the dust and cobwebs! We refused. That would alter the whole cellar and disturb the wine!" We all were glad that the cellar remained as it was!
Wine
Lancer's White: Made with a blend of Portuguese grapes it is light, citrus and off dry with a bit of pettiance.
Lancers Rise: An undermined blend of Portuguese varieties. Pinkish orange in colour. Light, strawberry, raspberry and cherry on nose with the same on palate. A bit of pettiance and gently acidity making it refreshing on own of with some spicy food!
Periquita: Made with Castelao, Trincadeira and Aragones grapes, this wine has red berry, black currant flavours. Medium bodied with forward tannins. Considered the oldest table wine produced in Portugal.
Quinta Da Camarante: A blend of Touriga Nacional, Aragones and Castelao. Plum, coffee, chocolate and raspberry flavours.
Fonseca/Van Zeller Vintage Port: A collaboration between Christiano Van Zeller and JMF resulted in a superb Port with exotic black fruit, figs and lush. Very lush!
After the tasting we were treated to lunch by Miguel at a "Buffet" style Portuguese restaurant called Alcanena were I gorged on fish/calamari/bean dishes. I even had my favourite soup Caldo Verde or cabbage soup. I think Alex Eberspaecher would have liked this place since he makes some awesome Caldo Verde!
The time came to say good-bye once again and we were off with good memories and full stomachs to meet with my old friend---Miguel Catarina of Quinta Da Cortezia in Estremadura.
Estremadura is like Terras do Sado is a VR or Vinho Regional. It is the largest producer of wine in Portugal.
Quinta Da Cortezia
Though the Quinta has been owned by the same family since the turn of the 20th Century (a very short period of time compared to some estates throughout Portugal), the actual estate goes back many centuries. The person in charge of the estate, my friend Miguel Catarina welcomed us first to his winery located in the village/town of Aldeia Gavinha not far from Miguel's actual home. The vineyards are located some kilometres away.
There is much history here at the estate vineyards which house an old 17th Century winery complete with actual presses. The iron gates of the winery were meant to keep unwanted people out as it took a fair amount of strength to move/open one gate. The gates are very unique not only because of their size but also their design. Thus they are pictured on the Cortezia website and bottle labels as well as becoming the emblem of the winery.
However the presses and gates are not the only historic artifacts on the property. A aqueduct that is reputed to have been built by the Arab/Moorish occupation still works perfectly. Miguel mentioned that he did not know where the source was as the spring that feeds the system is sealed but it still flows and the water is succulently sweet. Miguel says that water is never an issue here. Still on the subject of water, there is a very ancient pre-Roman (maybe Etruscan) fountain that up until 2008 was intact and working. However, time marches on and the fountain has given way but the water that flowed through its small "pipe" now flows more freely. I imagined about what other secrets lie beneath the soil of this estate vineyard.
Back at the old winery, Greg was busy taking shots of this and that. I decided to check out the press which obviously was operated via a long piece of hardwood that fitted into a hole within the press proper. To move it one had to push on one end of the hardwood which then turned the "screw-like" mechanism that operated the press. Greg got his camera on me and I pushed. The press started to give a bit and then the unthinkable happened. I snapped the lever piece! It snapped in two and I, like the kid who was caught stealing candy, tried to put these pieces together. Miguel came to my embarrassing rescue as he explained for me not to worry since it was just a piece that he had put in press to explain how the press worked.
With that Kodak moment done, me, Greg, Andreia and Miguel went to his home for a tasting and then dinner.
Quinta Da Cortezia White Wines
Arinto: Nice acidity with citrus flavours. Some butter in the middle (probably from small additions of Chardonnay and Fernao Pires).
Vinha Conches White:Fernao Pires and Arinto with a bit of Serra Nova. Nice light wine with mild acidity and melon/apple/citrus flavours.
Quinta Da Cortezia Red Wines
Vinha Conches Red: Wine is made with Tinto Roriz, Touriga Nacional and Trincadeira with touches of Castelao and Alicante Bouchet. Red fruit, medium bodied wine. Mellow and smooth.
Vinha Conches Special Edition: Touriga Nacional, Merlot, Alicante Bouchet. The wine has black fruit and chocolate flavours. Elegant and silky.
Quinta Da Cortezia Reserva: Touriga Nacional, Tinto Roriz, Merlot. The wine is quite dark. On the nose: Ripe red and dark fruit with toast and vanilla. Palate: Full in body, ripe red and black fruit flavours. Some fruit sweetness. Well integrated.
Touriga Nacional: Always my favourite with 100% TN. On the nose: Ripe fruit, plum, blackberry. Palate: Spice and more spice, concentrated and structured. Ripe cherry, raspberry with pepper spice and anise on the finish. Full in body and a keeper.
Quinta Da Cortezia Rose: 100% Touriga Nacional, lively, fresh and made for early drinking.
Ripe red fruit with a nice acidity throughout!
Dinner
After our tasting and after I played with Miquel's three dogs for several minutes, we were called to dinner. On the table were some of the wines tasted. The meal turned out to be one of the favourites on this trip. It was Chicken Pot Pie and it was delicious. I found it went very well with the Rose.
We all had an after dinner drink and then it was again time to bid my good friend, Miguel, God's be! The group of us then took off once again to the Westin Camporeal Golf Club and Spa where we would spend the night.
End Of Fourth Day
On To Terras do Sado!
Terras do Sado is a wine region that is almost surrounded by Alentejo. It is a designated VR or Vinho Regional very similar to the French Vin de Pays.
I woke up with a terrific appetite---still thinking about the delicious dinner we had the night before. Breakfast was welcoming and excellent. Martta joined us and we chatted about the Quinta, its horses, chapel and farm. Then it was time to go. We bid Martta and the staff a big thank you and good-by. We were off to Torres do Sado and Jose Maria Da Fonseca.
Greg and I took the time to snooze a bit while travelling the 2 hours to Azeitao.
We were met by Miguel Azevedo Remedio who I had met at the same location some three years prior. He escorted us to the old but picturesque courtyard of the Quinta and then beckoned us to a room which serviced like a museum of sorts.
The over 200 years of wine making by the same family was displayed in this room and had many artifacts and documents dating back to antiquity. For example: There were Bronze Medallions from the 1855 Paris Exhibition. I pointed out that this had special significance since it was during this year that the famous Bordeaux Classification was held----a classification that would affect how wine was treated and judged for the next century and more!
There was a thank you letter to Mr. Fonseca from then President Dwight D. Eisenhower as well as many photos going back nearly a century.
We toured the grounds and Mr. Remedio took us into the wine cellar.
A Real Wine Cellar
This was a true cellar. Very dark, lit by large iron chandeliers and "cobwebby", the cellar was what one imagines a wine cellar to be musty smell and all. There were barrels up to the ceiling We made our way through old barrels, some over a century old, with wine still sleeping inside. Throughout all this could be heard the soft voices of monks singing the "Gregorian Chant"! Of course it was piped music. but it was soothing and so "apropos"!
We made our way back to a wooden tablet with various dates dating back to the early 19th Century inscribed on it. "Are you getting this," I asked Greg who was busy filming as best he could in the dark. The reply was the quiet affirmation of a nod!
Beyond the tablets was an old----ancient iron gate through which we saw bottles obviously, very old. "This is the private family reserve!", Miguel mentioned. The door was locked and only one person had the key------The Key Keeper.
Apparently the Key Keeper is an ancestral position of an employee of the company. It was a father and son thing where by the Key would be passed down through the ages. Employee Turnover was not a problem at Jose Maria Da Fonseca. Only family members were allowed to go into this part of the cellar.
To our surprise Miguel Remedio called for the Key Keeper and within a few minutes were were strolling around visiting with sleeping history going back some 100 to 120 years. Dust covered the bottles. We were in awe. The monks chant was well chosen in this hallowed place!
Miguel mentioned, "Someone came in and wanted us to clean up the dust and cobwebs! We refused. That would alter the whole cellar and disturb the wine!" We all were glad that the cellar remained as it was!
Wine
Lancer's White: Made with a blend of Portuguese grapes it is light, citrus and off dry with a bit of pettiance.
Lancers Rise: An undermined blend of Portuguese varieties. Pinkish orange in colour. Light, strawberry, raspberry and cherry on nose with the same on palate. A bit of pettiance and gently acidity making it refreshing on own of with some spicy food!
Periquita: Made with Castelao, Trincadeira and Aragones grapes, this wine has red berry, black currant flavours. Medium bodied with forward tannins. Considered the oldest table wine produced in Portugal.
Quinta Da Camarante: A blend of Touriga Nacional, Aragones and Castelao. Plum, coffee, chocolate and raspberry flavours.
Fonseca/Van Zeller Vintage Port: A collaboration between Christiano Van Zeller and JMF resulted in a superb Port with exotic black fruit, figs and lush. Very lush!
After the tasting we were treated to lunch by Miguel at a "Buffet" style Portuguese restaurant called Alcanena were I gorged on fish/calamari/bean dishes. I even had my favourite soup Caldo Verde or cabbage soup. I think Alex Eberspaecher would have liked this place since he makes some awesome Caldo Verde!
The time came to say good-bye once again and we were off with good memories and full stomachs to meet with my old friend---Miguel Catarina of Quinta Da Cortezia in Estremadura.
Estremadura is like Terras do Sado is a VR or Vinho Regional. It is the largest producer of wine in Portugal.
Quinta Da Cortezia
Though the Quinta has been owned by the same family since the turn of the 20th Century (a very short period of time compared to some estates throughout Portugal), the actual estate goes back many centuries. The person in charge of the estate, my friend Miguel Catarina welcomed us first to his winery located in the village/town of Aldeia Gavinha not far from Miguel's actual home. The vineyards are located some kilometres away.
There is much history here at the estate vineyards which house an old 17th Century winery complete with actual presses. The iron gates of the winery were meant to keep unwanted people out as it took a fair amount of strength to move/open one gate. The gates are very unique not only because of their size but also their design. Thus they are pictured on the Cortezia website and bottle labels as well as becoming the emblem of the winery.
However the presses and gates are not the only historic artifacts on the property. A aqueduct that is reputed to have been built by the Arab/Moorish occupation still works perfectly. Miguel mentioned that he did not know where the source was as the spring that feeds the system is sealed but it still flows and the water is succulently sweet. Miguel says that water is never an issue here. Still on the subject of water, there is a very ancient pre-Roman (maybe Etruscan) fountain that up until 2008 was intact and working. However, time marches on and the fountain has given way but the water that flowed through its small "pipe" now flows more freely. I imagined about what other secrets lie beneath the soil of this estate vineyard.
Back at the old winery, Greg was busy taking shots of this and that. I decided to check out the press which obviously was operated via a long piece of hardwood that fitted into a hole within the press proper. To move it one had to push on one end of the hardwood which then turned the "screw-like" mechanism that operated the press. Greg got his camera on me and I pushed. The press started to give a bit and then the unthinkable happened. I snapped the lever piece! It snapped in two and I, like the kid who was caught stealing candy, tried to put these pieces together. Miguel came to my embarrassing rescue as he explained for me not to worry since it was just a piece that he had put in press to explain how the press worked.
With that Kodak moment done, me, Greg, Andreia and Miguel went to his home for a tasting and then dinner.
Quinta Da Cortezia White Wines
Arinto: Nice acidity with citrus flavours. Some butter in the middle (probably from small additions of Chardonnay and Fernao Pires).
Vinha Conches White:Fernao Pires and Arinto with a bit of Serra Nova. Nice light wine with mild acidity and melon/apple/citrus flavours.
Quinta Da Cortezia Red Wines
Vinha Conches Red: Wine is made with Tinto Roriz, Touriga Nacional and Trincadeira with touches of Castelao and Alicante Bouchet. Red fruit, medium bodied wine. Mellow and smooth.
Vinha Conches Special Edition: Touriga Nacional, Merlot, Alicante Bouchet. The wine has black fruit and chocolate flavours. Elegant and silky.
Quinta Da Cortezia Reserva: Touriga Nacional, Tinto Roriz, Merlot. The wine is quite dark. On the nose: Ripe red and dark fruit with toast and vanilla. Palate: Full in body, ripe red and black fruit flavours. Some fruit sweetness. Well integrated.
Touriga Nacional: Always my favourite with 100% TN. On the nose: Ripe fruit, plum, blackberry. Palate: Spice and more spice, concentrated and structured. Ripe cherry, raspberry with pepper spice and anise on the finish. Full in body and a keeper.
Quinta Da Cortezia Rose: 100% Touriga Nacional, lively, fresh and made for early drinking.
Ripe red fruit with a nice acidity throughout!
Dinner
After our tasting and after I played with Miquel's three dogs for several minutes, we were called to dinner. On the table were some of the wines tasted. The meal turned out to be one of the favourites on this trip. It was Chicken Pot Pie and it was delicious. I found it went very well with the Rose.
We all had an after dinner drink and then it was again time to bid my good friend, Miguel, God's be! The group of us then took off once again to the Westin Camporeal Golf Club and Spa where we would spend the night.
End Of Fourth Day
posted by Chuck Byers - Wine Consultant | 7:17 AM
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