Day Four: Benjamin Bridge, Tempest and Fine Dining

Dining At the Blomidon
The weather had finally cleared so that we could do some filing outside of the Inn and go into the garden to film the lovely flowers and ponds in its back garden. The film went successfully and the film trio of Christine White, Greg Rist and me then went indoors to prepare the shoot simulation of the dinner at the Inn. Sean and Michael Laceby prepared a fine meal consisting of a surf and turf sort of meal for me while Greg got the Caribou meat with all the trimmings along with a great red Lucy Kuhlmann. The wine was well suited for the meat and even went well with the lobster and steak.
After the meal, we were off to Halls Harbour to take shots and also to get more filming shots. It didn't take us long to get to the site and it had not changed for several years since I had not seen anyone. Halls Harbour lies at the shores of the Bay of Fundy. Lobster boats continually (come in and out of the of the wharf deck) depending on the tides with their catches of lobsters. Greg and I went to the lobster tanks to select the meal of the day. They were placed in boiling water and cooked for 20 minutes. Meanwhile, Greg went out to the fishing boats to gain more film footage while he was waiting for the food. Christine was as usual discussing the meal with the owners of the restaurant where we were about to eat.
I felt sorry for the poor crustaceans that were looking so helpless but they proved to be quite delicious eating when Greg and I took our meals to the rocks and enjoyed.
We returned Wolfville where we dropped in to see Chef Michael at the Tempest Restaurant. Chef Michael decided to accompany us to Benjamin Bridge, a winery that was so new that while it could make its own wines, it was not yet fully functional!
Benjamin Bridge and Jean Benoit Deslauriers Share Their Wine
Owners Gerry McConnell and Dara Gordon have their piece of heaven in the Gaspereau valley which is about five to ten minutes away from Wolfville, Nova Scotia----just off the Gaspereau Road. We met with Benjamin winemaker Jean-Benoit Deslauriers at the winery to taste some of the Benjamin Bridge wines. Sauvignon Blanc that somewhat blindsided me with its New Zealand style yet with a lean and fresh style all its own.
Jean-Benoit then introduced us to a vertical tasting of Nova 7---a wine that has taken Nova Scotia by storm. One of its many attributes is the the fact that it is mildly effervescent. Add to that a touch of fruit sweetness and refreshing acidity and little wonder that the wine has been selling itself off the shelves. There seemed to be a progression of effervescence with each year accompanied by an increased leanness and elegance by the time we reached the 2008.
Nova 7 is a blend of Csaba and New York Muscat that is done in the Asti style but without the somewhat cloying sweetness that many Astis have. The wine is welcoming, slightly sparkling with a clean refreshing acidity that comes with the Muscat. I see continuing success with this wine.
The next wine we tasted was an example of the wine that will be the signature wine of this estate and that is a Methode Champenoise or Traditional Style Sparkling Wine. The wine is made from estate grown Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Meunier. The wine had not yet been disgorged (sediment removed from the bottle Champagne style) and there was no dosage or sweetness selective added to it as yet. In other words the wine was bone dry and fresh from barrel but it had all the attributes of what was going to be a fine sparkler---typical yeast/bread nose, clean and fresh. Little wonder that none of us decided to "spit" it out but savoured every last drop.
Another wine was also from barrel and this was a rose full of delicious effervescence. It was delicious to drink now but I am sure Jean-Benoit had plans for it!
Jean-Benoit learned that we were having a dinner at Tempest---Chef Michael Howell's fine dining establishment in Wolfville! We were going to taste the Benjamin Bridge Taurus Reserve but decided to try the wine at the Tempest Restaurant later on that evening. The final wine tasted was a delicious Icewine made from estate grown Vidal grapes. The wine was full of apricot, peach and honey flavours with a marvelous acid bite.
I wondered out loud about the plight of vinifera grapes and if they could grow in the Gaspereau. Jean-Benoit stated that while there are challenges to growing vinifera, the temperature in the Gaspereau may get to as much as minus 17 or 20 but it should not hurt the vines though some winter kill does occur. I do hope he is correct since the wines I tasted were quite good!
Dinner At The Tempest
Chef Michael Howell's Tempest Restaurant is certainly initially welcoming to those who enter its foyer but no one is prepared for the magnitude and imagination that comes in the form of his cooking or the service that his staff bring to the clientele.
Christine White, Greg and I entered the abode carrying our bottle of Taurus Reserve. We were seated and the lovely sommelier called Sarah poured a glass of L'Acadie Reserve for us. This went very well with the initial appetizer of Parsnips and Apple as well as the Vegetable, Sausage and Fish Soup with an ever so good "arribbiata" taste to it! This was followed by a Riesling that matched a lovely Garden Salad as well as the sublime Lobster Risotto. The lovely acidity of both wines cut through the challenges of all the dishes following up each with lovely fruit brought to the forefront as the acid equalized the playing field.
Though all the dishes were exemplary examples of what Chef Michael could do, the prize came in the form of Lamb with Purple/Blue Mashed Potatoes. The wine matched was the Benjamin Bridge Taurus Reserve Marechal Foch. Lamb is always a match for the a wine that exhibits black fruit and wood flavours as well as having the benefit of pepper spice with a touch of anise. This seemed to be the case with the Taurus---a reserve wine that puts the Marechal grape on a different playing field. A super match and a super day.
One thing I would like to say is thanks to Dean Tudor of the Wine Writers Circle Of Canada whose daughter happens to be Chef Michael's wife. On hearing that I was coming to Wolfville, he suggested that I come and visit the restaurant. Of course, the Tempest and Michael Howell both having such a great reputation as well as being part of "Taste of Nova Scotia" were included in the itinerary of my visit!
Next: Grand Pre and on to Annapolis Royal