Name:
Location: Whitby, Ontario, Canada

Born in Malta but in Canada since age 5. Has written three books and presently does several columns about wine and food for various magazines.

Friday, February 13, 2009

Creekside Winery Progresses Onward

Creekside Revisited
I remember some years ago when Creekside Winery came into existence. I visited the winery in 1998/9 and met then winemaker Marcus Ansems. Given a tour of the then winery as well as areas of what it was to become left me saying to myself, "If this all happens, then it will become a major contender not only on the "Bench" but also the Niagara Peninsula as a whole. If I can recollect well enough, it was the Sauvignon Blanc and other whites that impressed me the most about this new kid on the block.
Years have gone by and things have happened since that initial visit. Marcus now heads the "Hemispheres Wine Guild" in St. Catherine's and two fellow Aussies (What is it about these Aussies----they're everywhere---the movies now wineries. What next?) Craig Mcdonald and Rob Power have a firm hold on the Reins! These "Wine Makers Of The Year 2008" at the Ontario Wine Awards" have done remarkable things with the production.
Broken Press
Before I go on, I'd like to tell all of you a story! A several years ago, I think it was 2004, the twosome was pressing some Viognier grapes when their press broke. They didn't exactly know what to do with them so they decided to add them to fermenting Syrah grapes and called the resulting wine, very aptly, "Broken Press". In tasting this wine, I was an immediate convert and have that inital taste of and power, roundness, spice/chocolate taste with just the right amounts of oak has remained with me to this day.
St. Lawerence Centre For The Arts
Hobbs and Company wine representative, Johnaton Hostick invited me to visit the Creekside display at the "St. Lawerence Centre For The Arts" and a fine display it was. Of course what I had in mind was "Broken Press Syrah" and that is exactly what I was thinking of when I walked in with dad Dan Hostick in tow! However, I found out that Broken Press as great as it was, had some serious, serious competition and that Creekside had grown a great deal since my initial tasting.
The first wine I tried was a red 2007 Shiraz which typical of the year was big, round, spicy and deliciously forward but with excellent tannins that forcasted several years development. Both red and white Laura (named after Creekside owner Laura McCain-Jensen) were excellent. The 2006 Laura red consisted mainly of Cabernet Sauvignon (39%), Cab Franc (28%), Merlot (27%) and Malbec (6%) showed great fruit and good structure with enough strength to last for four to seven years depending on storage. The 2007 Laura white consisted of a rather unique blend of Sauvignon Blanc (38%), Chardonnay (27%), Pinot Gris (18%), Viognier (7%), Muscat (5%) and Riesling (5%). The tropical fruit/floral/herbal nose was also evident on the palate with citrus, leechy fruit, lemon and vanilla. I was very impressed with the wines I tried but my biggest treat was yet to come!
Estate Reserve 2005!
The first wine I tried was the 2006 Broken Press Shiraz. That's what I came for and that's what I wanted to try! The 2006 was leaner than what I remember the 2004 being but it was still elegant with the depth to keep it improving over the next several years. The practice of adding Viognier (3%) to the Shiraz (97%) has been kept and contributes to the light floral nuance that one gets when the wine has stood for a few minutes and one get over the power of the Shiraz.
My true surprise came when I tasted the Creekside Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon Reserves.
The 2005 Merlot Reserve (100%) was deep coloured with a mouthfeel that made it very hard to hold in the mouth without swallowing. The wine nose was still somewhat closed but allowing the scent of plums and blackberry to come out. On the palate were currant blackberry/blueberry and plum flavours with some pepper and oak toast. There seemed to be a bit of anise on the finish.
The 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon was just as big with a nose that will open up in the near future but allows black fruit, herbal nots and some vanilla/oak . The mouthfeel is large and full with black cherry, plum, Eucalyptus and sweet wood on the palate. A truly nice wine. Both the Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon Reserves have long aging capablity and I look forward to trying them in five years time and possibly at the twelve year margin.
Ice, Ice Baby!!!
The final wines I tried were a Select Late Harvest Pinot Gris with sweet pear, peach, citrus mandarin flavours and remarkable Riesling Icewine that had a tremendous balance to it with toffee, citrus orange and oak hints. Tasted with chocolate coated Strawberries, the Pinot Gris was quite good. The Icewine was remarkable again as it was tasted with cheesecake/white chocolate pastry.
When it comes to a tasting, there are times that I think twice before taking the time to travel some 75 kilometres both ways to my home. In this case, the effort was exceptionally rewarding.
Congrats to Creekside and their agents Hobbs & Co.