Name:
Location: Whitby, Ontario, Canada

Born in Malta but in Canada since age 5. Has written three books and presently does several columns about wine and food for various magazines.

Friday, February 6, 2009

January Was Slow But February Has Flown Out The Gate!!

It Started With Sommelier
If this was a horserace the month of January 2009 is well behind February as far as wine events are concerned. My article about sommeliers (aptly called "Sommelier") with five top sommeliers (Zoltan Szabo, Corey Ladouceur, Lindsay Groves, April Kilpatrick and Daniel Giosu) took some time to write since after finishing the first draft two days before my deadline, I decided I did not like it and redid the whole thing. I must also thank John Szabo MS (no relation to Zoltan) for his advice and suggestions. John as many of you may know, is the only Master Sommelier in Canada.

Fortunately for me, I did not have many events other than the Wine Writers' Circle Dinner to go to so I could concentate on "Sommeliers". One thing, I must learn how to use my camera. Poor Corey Ladouceur, Sommelier for The Granite Club, spent part of a morning babysitting me at 'The Club' while I took pictures of him. It was sort of embarassing though. I came prepared with my new 12.5 Mega Pix Cannon only to find that my 8 GB memory card was missing. Corey came to the rescue with an 8 MGP camera ----and we got some nice shots but to no avail since the shots were only of a 1.5 MGB size and I needed (according to my editor) at least a 2 MGB resolution. Now since the only bites I understand are those of the "mosquito" genra this does not compute with me. Fortunately there was one super great picture submitted by Lindsay Groves (which is hot!) that was good enough to use.

February Events!

The first event I went to was the launch of the 2003 Osoyoos Larose. Now please don't tell me that this was yet just another launch! First of all, I regard Osoyoos Larose at the same level as that magnificent wine Le Clos Jordanne (though I always will question why the masquiline "Le" is used with the femine spelling of "Jordanne")---both of which are putting Canada on the International Wine Map and I personally regard each as a bargain when it comes to price. Equal wines anywhere are at least in the $150 dollar per bottle range (and I'm being conservative).

The event featuring a vertical tasting of wines from 2004 through 2007 Osoyoos Larose, (as well as barrel tastings of the singular varietal components of the 2008 Larose) once again was handled exceptionally by wine maker Pascal Madevon and Technical Project Manager and Consultant Alain Sutre (I committed a "faux pas' when saying good bye to Mr. Antoine Merlaut of Group Taillan who is Osoyoos Larose's co-founder along with Vincor Canada) when saying good bye! I was thinking about Mr. Sutre and instead of saying Mr. Merlaut, I said, "Mr. Sutre"----life goes on!)..

What can I say that I haven't said before? The 2005 is an amazing wine that will out pace the 2004 (though the 2004 is no slouch by any means). The 2005 is bigger and more complex to the leaner 2004 which is at this time a bit more integrated compared to its more powerful younger peer evolving as we speak. Each year the wines seem to be better and I know that there will be vaiations. For example, I found the 2004 elegant and lovely to drink, the 2005 as I mentioned has some growing to do but it already has big mouth feel with the flavours to go with it. Once integrated it will evolve far past the 2004. 2006 seems to be "blend" of the two years. I am not sure if it has the same development possiblilities of the 2005 but time will tell. 2007 shows much promise of being another winner with great flavours and the tannins to go with them.
I also had the pleasure of tasting the 2008 component varieties consisting on Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot. Each wine could stand on its own as a single varietal. I was especially amazed at the Cabernet Sauvignon! In any region, this wine could stand on its own as being superb. The Osoyoos Larose tradition is to blend two third merlot with about 23 percent cabernet and about 4 percent each of Malbec, Cab Franc and Petite Verdot. Just for fun, I blended my own concoction while at the 2005 Osoyoos tasting
launch increasing the Cabernet to about 35 percent with a 55 percent Merlot, 5 percent Cab Franc, and a 4 percent each of Malbec and about 1 percent Petite Verdot. I liked it but----!
I think that I will leave the blending to those who know what they are doing.
Le Repas
The following lunch produced at the St. Andrews Club was a truly Bordeaux inspired! We were served three wines, the Petales d'Osoyoos (second wine of Larose) again, was a wine that could easily stand up to the wines of any region and priced at $25(B.C.) is a true bargain for wines under $30. The 2004 and 2005 Osoyoos Larose (circa $45) for what you get are practically a give away (even in these economic times). The wines were exceptional with the meal matching the main course of Lamb perfectly. I had the pleasure of sitting with Mr. Sutre, wine writer Michael Vaughan and wine writer Alan McGinty. There were many who attended this fine tasting and meal. Fellow wine writers, Tony Aspler, Konrad Ejbich, Edward Finstein, Bill Munnely, Michael Pinkus, Sheila Swerling-Puritt, Hrayr Berberoglu (not to mention picture Sommelier Lindsay Groves) were there to name a few!

Ageability

There are those who believe that Canadians wines can't age! Then, there are those who believe in the tooth fairy! The fact is that Canada has produced and will continue to produce wines that age well. I opened up a bottle of 2000 Jackson Triggs Proprietors' Reserve ($11.45) the other night and found it excellent. I did the same with a 1997 Hillebrand Lakeshore Vineyard Chardonnay ($22.) and found it equally excellent. The Osoyoos Larose 2005 will definitely be around and showing well in 2015 and probably in 2020 or better. The one problem that it faces is that with it showing such delicious promise----who would want to wait that long to drink it.

It has the added disadvantage of matching well with a variety of fine foods such as Lamb, beef and game. I plan to get several bottles of the 2004/2005 and match them to some Venison, Moose and Duck. Can hardly wait.



Bruce Nicholson's Commemorative Icewine

To move on to another subject which is that of the 2010 Olympicss, the 2006 Vidal Inniskillin Icewine (Inniskillin is the Official Wine Supplier of the Vancouver 2010 Olympics and Paralympic Winter Games) features the artwork of Gordon Halloran on its label. A portion of the proceeds of each bottle sold will supoport the Canadian Olympic Team and the Vancouver 2010 Olympic and Paralympic Games.

The wine itself was produced from grapes picked later on in January 2007, as the weather was somewhat mild. This must be a bit scary---especially since the making of Icewine so depends on the cold (-10 Celcius) and since so little can be made from each vine. Enemies of Icewine productions: rodents, birds, pest, rot etc. all come to play when the weather gets too mild. Keep in mind that these grapes have been hanging around and fully ripe since maybe August through September. Icewine is a risk and a good crop rewards that ones that risk but bad crops and mild weather act as a reality check that the risk is always there. Luckily this Icewine is just great.

With the intese flavours that are common to excellent Icewine: peaches, sweet pear, appricots and a hint of oak, the wine is a must for desserts such as some chocolates, fruit and cheeses. This may be a bit off the wall but I experimented by dipping some blue cheese in white chocolate and then tasting Icewine with it. Y-U-U-M-M-M! For those who like Chocolate and Strawberry dips, -------you must try.

My congratulations go to Inniskillin and Vincor for assisting with the Olympic and Paralympic and am sure that the Canadian Athletes competing all appreciate what they have done!