Portugal: Lovely Vistas--Great Wine (Getting There!)
Toronto: Sunday, June 28th, 2009
The weather was not what you would call the greatest as I left my home in Whitby to begin the second part of my filming journey (remember Nova Scotia which began it all?). It had been spitting rain all day! I had taken pains to make sure that everything I needed for this 12 day trip was securely and carefully packed. This included my suitcase and most of all, my computer bag (which also sufficed as a carry on bag with the usual utensils). I was to meet my business partner and cinematographer, Greg Rist at his home in Thornhill just North of Toronto at 6:35 PM in order to check in for our 9:45 PM flight to Lisbon. My wife, Darlene, drove me to the Rists' home where Greg and his wife Helen were waiting.
Pearson International Airport
Pearson has grown much through the years and I felt overwhelmed when I saw the cacophony of signs and traffic as we approached the airport. It was a far, far cry from my first experience back in 1963 when it was then called Toronto Airport. I was just 17 then and I was on my way to Amsterdam/France via Royal Dutch Airlines. The airport then had just one small terminal and all parking was outside in a small parking lot. It was all different now! So many terminals and so many planes. I have used this airport many times but never do I fail to be awe struck by the sheer size of the place.
Helen dropped us off at Terminal One where we made sure we were at the correct airline location. I went to get my bags and realized that something was missing. MY COMPUTER BAG!!!! I had left it at home! All my notes and travelling items. My right hand was now missing!
We could not go back and I had to make do.
After I got over my initial shock, Greg and I went on our jaunt to find the line up for our flight. It took us awhile but we finally came up to a small line up of folks waiting for something. I went ahead to see if I could find the airline SATA whose flight 310 was heading to Lisbon.
I curved around the line up to see it stretch to a massive one-----ending at two counters. They were for flight SATA 310 for Lisbon. I went back to inform Greg of the findings. It took about twenty minutes for the line to move but move it did and we finally got checked in and then we were off through security and then to our departure gate. One thing! If you are going to travel, do not wear western boots---especially nowadays! They are hard to take off as well as put on in a pinch and going through security makes them doubly a problem since one has to move fast.
SATA 310 To Lisbon:
It was still raining and cool when we left for Toronto on Fight SATA 310. At least it would be sunny and warm in Portugal I said to myself. The flight was just great! I was prepared for the worse since most airlines have an austerity program that basically cuts outs extras given on flights. This airline which is based in the Azores (Islands that are part of Portugal) did not skimp even a tiny bit.
First of all, the seating was comfortable, with ample leg room. Next the airline offered a full meal that was absolutely delicious with complementary wine and/or beer in addition to tea or coffee. Another meal was served later on in the flight which lasted about 7 hours. We were well taken care of by this airline and I highly recommend it to any who travel. The crew were among the most courteous I have encountered anywhere and the service just great!
Arrival Lisbon International Airport
We "touched down' on time at about 9:30 am on June 29th. It was raining! I couldn't believe it! We were later told that the weather was acting strangely this year and it had been rather cool. Global Warming one person said. "I guess this is going to be the "catch all" phrase that most will use when the weather acts differently from now on", I said to myself. Greg and I made our way through to customs and then to the baggage counter to claim our bags. It showed up after about 45 minutes. We then went out to meet our guide from ViniPortugal!
Andreia
Greg and I left the "Arrivals" quadrant and proceeded to come down the main ramp where dozens of excited local people waited for those arriving from abroad. It was the same ramp that Ana Sofia D'Oliveira met me on my first visit to Portugal in 2006. I looked but this time there was no one there. We parked ourselves in a good location and I went to look for Andreia our host from ViniPortugal.
It took about 15 minutes but when I returned Andreia had found us! We had been waiting for our bags so long that she thought we may have missed our flight and went out to make a call to Canada! My wife sleepily told her that we had boarded our flight and went on to tell her what I looked like. We matched up in the end.
Andreia was/is slim, very pretty and spoke excellent English. She also was new to ViniPortugal and I feel somewhat nervous at meeting the gruesome twosome from Canada. After the introductions the group of us headed to Andreia's car where she whisked us away from the airport and towards our first winery. By that time, the sun started to peak out and I started to feel much better.
Being considerate and congenial as she was, Andreia asked us if we wished to rest but since due to a time SNAFU we arrived a day late, Greg and I decided to forge ahead with our business We were off to the first Region and Winery!
Alentejo Region: Herdade da Malhadinha Nova
Alentejo is located in the southerly part of Portugal and is separated from the rest of the country by the Tagus River. Its name in fact means "Beyond (or across) the Tagus. It is warm, with rolling hills and fertile soil which consists of free-draining shist (important for vineyards). Cork Trees and Olive trees along with many types of cows, sheep, pigs could be seen as we drove
towards Herade da Malhadinha Nova a new and exciting winery with, already, an impeccable and great reputation.
If Andreia wanted to make an impression, Malhadinha Nova was the perfect winery/estate to introduce to us. It was initially part of a family wine business started by the parents of Paulo and Joao Soares. The two brothers decided to turn their attention to a winery and they did so in grand style.
As we drove in to the winery I was impressed with the cleanliness of the architecture and grounds with a mixture of ultra modern and traditional at the same time. The Soares brothers met us and escorted us to their restaurant where, we were told, Chef Vitor Claro was preparing a very special meal to complement their fine wines. I couldn't help but notice the ultra modern winery facilities to the left of us as we walked through the main foyer and into the delightfully lit restaurant. We were seated and I commented on the winery.
"Ah, you noticed our facilities already", Paulo Sores remarked! "We have invested much time in making the best wines possible. We hand harvest all the grapes and bring them in small boxes as as not to damage the grapes. We use gravity (no pumping) to ensure that the process is natural. This ensures that the wine we produce truly reflects our vineyards."
The Soares Brothers use indigenous varieties as well as some imported varieties to make their wines. The labels of their wines are used to signify an important event in the winery for example the drawing on the label on the Monte da Pecequina wines was done by Francisca who was the first born of the family's new generation. The labels of other bottling have a similar story. One relates to the first boy born to this new generation of Soares and is named "Joao". Another, honours the "Marias" that made Portugal great! It is aptly called "mariasdamalhadinha".
One thing is that the wines from harvest to harvest, year to year, never have exactly the same blends unless they are 100 % varietals. The Soares brothers and winemaker, Luis Duarte, seem to take pains to make sure that the wine is the best it can be from one year to the next.
Greg Rist and I had lunch with the family and Chef Victor Claro did not disappoint. We had many interesting and delicious entrees which went well with the Malhadinha wines but the one dish that I most certainly enjoyed was that of "Black Pig" that was slow cooked for 72 hours. The meat literally melted in our mouths and when tried with Malhadinha red wines, it was perfection.
Agritourism Plus
However, wine is not the only thing that makes Herdade da Malhadinha Nova a great place to visit. There are the Cork Groves, certified cattle and black pig areas which seem to stretch forever. They seem to complete a self sustaining organic type of agriculture that is becoming popular world wide. In many ways they are the leaders.
For those interested in other forms of enjoyment there is a pool, spa and massage parlour for guests of the winery. The hotel on the premises offers first class room accommodations and suites, wine bar, Jaccuzi and thematic events which include riding, biking, fishing and cooking. There are even conference facilities. In many ways the facilities here reminded me of the excellent facilities at Hadsten House in Solvang, California.
Summary
In short, trying to tell me that Portugal's wines are great and that the wineries are innovative in all aspects of the wine trade is actually preaching to the converted. I found this out during my last visit in 2006. However, when I see Malhadinha Nova and what it is doing, I can only attest that Portuguese wineries are reaching for the sublime!
Herdade do Esporao
We left Herdade da Malhadinha Nova and proceeded to our next Alentejo winery: Herdade do Esporao. Again, this is an ultra modern facility with tremendous ambitions----and achievements. Parts of the property go back to the 13th Century in the form of an historic tower which was used for occupation and later shelter. Towers of this type were also ways of displaying military power and standing in the community.
The story of wine in this estate goes back only to 1987 when the winery was built. The following years saw many additions (such as a second winery for white wine only) and ultra modern equipment purchases as well as the building of a huge reservoir close to the winery estate.
Everything was done with quality in mind and in accordance with Dr. Jose Roquette's statement," The pursuit of Quality is a necessary precondition of success in any project!"
There are many projects going on at Esporao! One of the most recent is on of the top hill of the property and consists of a wine bar, wine tasting room, a restaurant featuring local and regional food and a large meeting room for conferences etc. The complex faces the large dam to the reservoir and is surrounded by vineyards.
An Aussie Winemaker In Portugal
Portugal's "Winemaker of the Year", David Baverstock was known as one of the "flying winemakers"----vintners who flew from one area/country to the next consulting and making wine. David stayed long enough in Portugal to accumulate almost 30 years in the Portuguese wine trade.
"I was educated in the Barossa Valley in Australia but came to Portugal. That's were I met my wife. We did go back to Australia but several years later she got homesick and we returned to Portugal. I had the distinct advantage of being an Australian winemaker who could speak Portuguese. The other thing is that I believed in the grapes of Portugal---that they could make great wines. I wanted to make Portuguese wines better!"
So he did! This time, he went down to the Alentejo and became the winemaker for Herdade do Esporao. He invested in Stainless Steel tanks, American Oak and ultra modern equipment to make wine in a "New World" way!
His winery is ultra clean and on many levels. Just outside on the back patio, the horizon viewed a magnificent site of the reservoir with kilometres of land surrounding it. It gave me an unusual feeling of freedom just to see that much open space below me.
David brought out a luncheon snack and some of his wines. You could tell the David was quite proud of his wines. I found that there was something special with a wine that had a blend of Touriga Nacional---the wine grape of Portugal. It is the grape that is used to make great Port and also a grape that lets you know "its there". When blended with other grapes---even if the percentage is lower than most, it still finds a way of letting you know, "I'm here!" So it was with a wine called "Quatro Castas" which was made up of red varieties Aragones, Trincadeira,Touriga Nacional and Syrah. I also enjoyed the 100% red Touriga Nacional and Aragones. The whites of Esporoa also impressed me. I find that the Arinto grape is very much like the Touriga Nacional in as much as it demands to be heard (or tasted). In the Alandra white, which has three grape varieties, Manteudo, Arinto and Diagalves, the refreshing, sharp taste of the Arinto is very pleasing. The same can be said to a lesser degree with the Esporao Reserve White where the Arinto is lower on the percentage scale than its peers Antoa Vaz and Roupeiro but still can be tasted in the finish.
Certainly David Baverstock, whose clients have included the likes of Sir Cliff Richards as well as some well known Port houses in the Douro/Port regions has proven his talents as a winemaker and manager time and time again. He seems to have a special love for the Verdelho grape variety and is thoroughly committed to developing the grape varieties that Herdade de Esporao uses.
Hotel horta da Moura
We bid a sad good-bye to David and were off to find our hotel for the night. Time had gotten away on us and Greg and I were quite tired. Keep in mind that we got off the plane in Lisbon after 7.5 hours of flying, did the customs and baggage routine, met Andreia and left for our first wineries. The time was pressing on to dark so off we went to find the Hotel horta da Moura. The hotel was quaint and pleasant. Most of all it was quiet. The rooms were clean and spacious. One thing I noticed was that most windows had shutters but no screens. I guessed that people did not leave their windows open at night.
I had a shower and off to bed I went. That ended a long day. It was fun but tiring at the same time. I cursed myself one more time for not bringing my computer with me and wandered into the sleep zone!
End Of The First Of 12 Days
The weather was not what you would call the greatest as I left my home in Whitby to begin the second part of my filming journey (remember Nova Scotia which began it all?). It had been spitting rain all day! I had taken pains to make sure that everything I needed for this 12 day trip was securely and carefully packed. This included my suitcase and most of all, my computer bag (which also sufficed as a carry on bag with the usual utensils). I was to meet my business partner and cinematographer, Greg Rist at his home in Thornhill just North of Toronto at 6:35 PM in order to check in for our 9:45 PM flight to Lisbon. My wife, Darlene, drove me to the Rists' home where Greg and his wife Helen were waiting.
Pearson International Airport
Pearson has grown much through the years and I felt overwhelmed when I saw the cacophony of signs and traffic as we approached the airport. It was a far, far cry from my first experience back in 1963 when it was then called Toronto Airport. I was just 17 then and I was on my way to Amsterdam/France via Royal Dutch Airlines. The airport then had just one small terminal and all parking was outside in a small parking lot. It was all different now! So many terminals and so many planes. I have used this airport many times but never do I fail to be awe struck by the sheer size of the place.
Helen dropped us off at Terminal One where we made sure we were at the correct airline location. I went to get my bags and realized that something was missing. MY COMPUTER BAG!!!! I had left it at home! All my notes and travelling items. My right hand was now missing!
We could not go back and I had to make do.
After I got over my initial shock, Greg and I went on our jaunt to find the line up for our flight. It took us awhile but we finally came up to a small line up of folks waiting for something. I went ahead to see if I could find the airline SATA whose flight 310 was heading to Lisbon.
I curved around the line up to see it stretch to a massive one-----ending at two counters. They were for flight SATA 310 for Lisbon. I went back to inform Greg of the findings. It took about twenty minutes for the line to move but move it did and we finally got checked in and then we were off through security and then to our departure gate. One thing! If you are going to travel, do not wear western boots---especially nowadays! They are hard to take off as well as put on in a pinch and going through security makes them doubly a problem since one has to move fast.
SATA 310 To Lisbon:
It was still raining and cool when we left for Toronto on Fight SATA 310. At least it would be sunny and warm in Portugal I said to myself. The flight was just great! I was prepared for the worse since most airlines have an austerity program that basically cuts outs extras given on flights. This airline which is based in the Azores (Islands that are part of Portugal) did not skimp even a tiny bit.
First of all, the seating was comfortable, with ample leg room. Next the airline offered a full meal that was absolutely delicious with complementary wine and/or beer in addition to tea or coffee. Another meal was served later on in the flight which lasted about 7 hours. We were well taken care of by this airline and I highly recommend it to any who travel. The crew were among the most courteous I have encountered anywhere and the service just great!
Arrival Lisbon International Airport
We "touched down' on time at about 9:30 am on June 29th. It was raining! I couldn't believe it! We were later told that the weather was acting strangely this year and it had been rather cool. Global Warming one person said. "I guess this is going to be the "catch all" phrase that most will use when the weather acts differently from now on", I said to myself. Greg and I made our way through to customs and then to the baggage counter to claim our bags. It showed up after about 45 minutes. We then went out to meet our guide from ViniPortugal!
Andreia
Greg and I left the "Arrivals" quadrant and proceeded to come down the main ramp where dozens of excited local people waited for those arriving from abroad. It was the same ramp that Ana Sofia D'Oliveira met me on my first visit to Portugal in 2006. I looked but this time there was no one there. We parked ourselves in a good location and I went to look for Andreia our host from ViniPortugal.
It took about 15 minutes but when I returned Andreia had found us! We had been waiting for our bags so long that she thought we may have missed our flight and went out to make a call to Canada! My wife sleepily told her that we had boarded our flight and went on to tell her what I looked like. We matched up in the end.
Andreia was/is slim, very pretty and spoke excellent English. She also was new to ViniPortugal and I feel somewhat nervous at meeting the gruesome twosome from Canada. After the introductions the group of us headed to Andreia's car where she whisked us away from the airport and towards our first winery. By that time, the sun started to peak out and I started to feel much better.
Being considerate and congenial as she was, Andreia asked us if we wished to rest but since due to a time SNAFU we arrived a day late, Greg and I decided to forge ahead with our business We were off to the first Region and Winery!
Alentejo Region: Herdade da Malhadinha Nova
Alentejo is located in the southerly part of Portugal and is separated from the rest of the country by the Tagus River. Its name in fact means "Beyond (or across) the Tagus. It is warm, with rolling hills and fertile soil which consists of free-draining shist (important for vineyards). Cork Trees and Olive trees along with many types of cows, sheep, pigs could be seen as we drove
towards Herade da Malhadinha Nova a new and exciting winery with, already, an impeccable and great reputation.
If Andreia wanted to make an impression, Malhadinha Nova was the perfect winery/estate to introduce to us. It was initially part of a family wine business started by the parents of Paulo and Joao Soares. The two brothers decided to turn their attention to a winery and they did so in grand style.
As we drove in to the winery I was impressed with the cleanliness of the architecture and grounds with a mixture of ultra modern and traditional at the same time. The Soares brothers met us and escorted us to their restaurant where, we were told, Chef Vitor Claro was preparing a very special meal to complement their fine wines. I couldn't help but notice the ultra modern winery facilities to the left of us as we walked through the main foyer and into the delightfully lit restaurant. We were seated and I commented on the winery.
"Ah, you noticed our facilities already", Paulo Sores remarked! "We have invested much time in making the best wines possible. We hand harvest all the grapes and bring them in small boxes as as not to damage the grapes. We use gravity (no pumping) to ensure that the process is natural. This ensures that the wine we produce truly reflects our vineyards."
The Soares Brothers use indigenous varieties as well as some imported varieties to make their wines. The labels of their wines are used to signify an important event in the winery for example the drawing on the label on the Monte da Pecequina wines was done by Francisca who was the first born of the family's new generation. The labels of other bottling have a similar story. One relates to the first boy born to this new generation of Soares and is named "Joao". Another, honours the "Marias" that made Portugal great! It is aptly called "mariasdamalhadinha".
One thing is that the wines from harvest to harvest, year to year, never have exactly the same blends unless they are 100 % varietals. The Soares brothers and winemaker, Luis Duarte, seem to take pains to make sure that the wine is the best it can be from one year to the next.
Greg Rist and I had lunch with the family and Chef Victor Claro did not disappoint. We had many interesting and delicious entrees which went well with the Malhadinha wines but the one dish that I most certainly enjoyed was that of "Black Pig" that was slow cooked for 72 hours. The meat literally melted in our mouths and when tried with Malhadinha red wines, it was perfection.
Agritourism Plus
However, wine is not the only thing that makes Herdade da Malhadinha Nova a great place to visit. There are the Cork Groves, certified cattle and black pig areas which seem to stretch forever. They seem to complete a self sustaining organic type of agriculture that is becoming popular world wide. In many ways they are the leaders.
For those interested in other forms of enjoyment there is a pool, spa and massage parlour for guests of the winery. The hotel on the premises offers first class room accommodations and suites, wine bar, Jaccuzi and thematic events which include riding, biking, fishing and cooking. There are even conference facilities. In many ways the facilities here reminded me of the excellent facilities at Hadsten House in Solvang, California.
Summary
In short, trying to tell me that Portugal's wines are great and that the wineries are innovative in all aspects of the wine trade is actually preaching to the converted. I found this out during my last visit in 2006. However, when I see Malhadinha Nova and what it is doing, I can only attest that Portuguese wineries are reaching for the sublime!
Herdade do Esporao
We left Herdade da Malhadinha Nova and proceeded to our next Alentejo winery: Herdade do Esporao. Again, this is an ultra modern facility with tremendous ambitions----and achievements. Parts of the property go back to the 13th Century in the form of an historic tower which was used for occupation and later shelter. Towers of this type were also ways of displaying military power and standing in the community.
The story of wine in this estate goes back only to 1987 when the winery was built. The following years saw many additions (such as a second winery for white wine only) and ultra modern equipment purchases as well as the building of a huge reservoir close to the winery estate.
Everything was done with quality in mind and in accordance with Dr. Jose Roquette's statement," The pursuit of Quality is a necessary precondition of success in any project!"
There are many projects going on at Esporao! One of the most recent is on of the top hill of the property and consists of a wine bar, wine tasting room, a restaurant featuring local and regional food and a large meeting room for conferences etc. The complex faces the large dam to the reservoir and is surrounded by vineyards.
An Aussie Winemaker In Portugal
Portugal's "Winemaker of the Year", David Baverstock was known as one of the "flying winemakers"----vintners who flew from one area/country to the next consulting and making wine. David stayed long enough in Portugal to accumulate almost 30 years in the Portuguese wine trade.
"I was educated in the Barossa Valley in Australia but came to Portugal. That's were I met my wife. We did go back to Australia but several years later she got homesick and we returned to Portugal. I had the distinct advantage of being an Australian winemaker who could speak Portuguese. The other thing is that I believed in the grapes of Portugal---that they could make great wines. I wanted to make Portuguese wines better!"
So he did! This time, he went down to the Alentejo and became the winemaker for Herdade do Esporao. He invested in Stainless Steel tanks, American Oak and ultra modern equipment to make wine in a "New World" way!
His winery is ultra clean and on many levels. Just outside on the back patio, the horizon viewed a magnificent site of the reservoir with kilometres of land surrounding it. It gave me an unusual feeling of freedom just to see that much open space below me.
David brought out a luncheon snack and some of his wines. You could tell the David was quite proud of his wines. I found that there was something special with a wine that had a blend of Touriga Nacional---the wine grape of Portugal. It is the grape that is used to make great Port and also a grape that lets you know "its there". When blended with other grapes---even if the percentage is lower than most, it still finds a way of letting you know, "I'm here!" So it was with a wine called "Quatro Castas" which was made up of red varieties Aragones, Trincadeira,Touriga Nacional and Syrah. I also enjoyed the 100% red Touriga Nacional and Aragones. The whites of Esporoa also impressed me. I find that the Arinto grape is very much like the Touriga Nacional in as much as it demands to be heard (or tasted). In the Alandra white, which has three grape varieties, Manteudo, Arinto and Diagalves, the refreshing, sharp taste of the Arinto is very pleasing. The same can be said to a lesser degree with the Esporao Reserve White where the Arinto is lower on the percentage scale than its peers Antoa Vaz and Roupeiro but still can be tasted in the finish.
Certainly David Baverstock, whose clients have included the likes of Sir Cliff Richards as well as some well known Port houses in the Douro/Port regions has proven his talents as a winemaker and manager time and time again. He seems to have a special love for the Verdelho grape variety and is thoroughly committed to developing the grape varieties that Herdade de Esporao uses.
Hotel horta da Moura
We bid a sad good-bye to David and were off to find our hotel for the night. Time had gotten away on us and Greg and I were quite tired. Keep in mind that we got off the plane in Lisbon after 7.5 hours of flying, did the customs and baggage routine, met Andreia and left for our first wineries. The time was pressing on to dark so off we went to find the Hotel horta da Moura. The hotel was quaint and pleasant. Most of all it was quiet. The rooms were clean and spacious. One thing I noticed was that most windows had shutters but no screens. I guessed that people did not leave their windows open at night.
I had a shower and off to bed I went. That ended a long day. It was fun but tiring at the same time. I cursed myself one more time for not bringing my computer with me and wandered into the sleep zone!
End Of The First Of 12 Days
posted by Chuck Byers - Wine Consultant | 7:47 AM
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