Day Six: July 4th----Pousada Restaurant,Obidos, Obidos Castle, Luis Pato and Quinta do Encontro
Obidos and Obidos Castle
We registered at the Estalagem do Convento, a fabulous hotel that was built in 1830 as a Nunnery for a religious order of Nuns. Plans fell apart however and the nuns did not come so the place was turned into an inn and then a hotel which it is today. After we registered we were off to Obidos Castle and a restaurant within its walls.
The town of Obidos is a spectacular scenic spot where one sees narrow cobbled streets, terracotta roof tiles, flower covered walls, and of course, in the middle of it all, Obidos Castle which was originally built by the Romans. Legend has it that King Dinis offered it to his wife, Queen Isabella of Aragon in the 13th Century.
The Moors (Turks) had control of the castle until 1148 when the King and his men disguised as trees------TREES!!!!-----trees took back control and renovated it. The castle was severely damaged by the Earthquake of 1755 (which incidentally, caused a huge Sumani which destroyed much of Lisbon. One can see the newly restored buildings as compared to the old untouched ones in the lower quarter!
Obidos Castle is walled all the way around with many homes and businesses within it. One enters the castle through a very narrow gate that probably existed as a draw bridge of sorts in the past. Since the streets are very narrow and look very 17th Century, it is easier for people to walk to the main castle rather than drive.
The castle proper has been turned into a hotel (some of the rooms were in the actual castle and very inviting---talking about sleeping in history! The restaurant complex was called "pousada do castelo"! The restaurant is fine dining and the service is absolutely excellent. Our treat for the night is when we went there and ate a superb Grilled Sea Bass. Our wine was a phenomenal Luis Pato White. We had a fine evening and then a great sleep at the Convento as I called it. Unfortunately there were no nuns to tuck me in!
The following morning we had quite the breakfast at the Convento's restaurant and then off we went to visit the great Luis Pato----Mr. Baga! The Curia region within Bairrada is a lush oasis which has been known for its "thermal waters" since Roma times. It is here that Mr. Pato makes his fine wines and has become known as "Mr. Bairrada" and "Mr. Baga "for the grape he loves so much!
Luis Pato!
Hes a living legend and had the manner of one when Greg, Marcio and I went to meet him at his winery at Ribeirro da Gandara. He walked dignified towards us with a welcoming gesture. His family have been producing wine at Quinta do Ribeirinho since the 18th Century. Luis followed his father, Joao who started making the wine in Bairrada in 1970 and inherited his pioneer spirit, introducing many new styles and technologies that were alien to the area at the time.
Mr. Pato exclusively has Portuguese grapes in his 65 hectare winery. The varieties he has re Baga, Touriga Nacional, Maria Gomes. Bical, Cerceal, Sercialinho and Arinto.
We toured his wine cellars with their natural coolness and saw his impressive library which contains his wines from various vintages. Pato wines are noted for their longevity and complexity.
There is also lodging at the House of Ois where viistors can stay and eat in what was the old wine cellar of the house.
Lunch
For lunch, Mr. Pato took us to Sangalhos to have the "Pride of Bairrada, Roast Suckling Pig". Roast Sucklling Pig is a 2 to 6 week old "Pigglet" (sorry "Winnie") that is still sucking milk from its mother. It is roasted slowly until very tender. This dish in various incarnations has been a delicacy since at least Roman times and has been perfected in Bairrada. I must say that it goes well with the Luis Pato Wines.
Wines
The wines of Louis Pato are truly amazing. Tasted from barrel they come out as though they were meant to be enjoyed immediately but his wines last and last. The white wines such as the Maria Gomes are fresh, with honey and apple flavours. His Reds, especially the Touriga Nacional and Baga have raspberry, blackberry and chocolate tastes which become jammy as they age.
Here are three wines now available at the LCBO in Ontario, Canada.
Vinha Barossa: Made from 80 year vines, this wine is full, round and meaty. Excellent.
Vinha Pan:Medium bodied with ripe red fruit. Nice structure!
Quinta Do Ribeirinho Baga: Bold, well integrated fruit flavours, very long finish. This wine is made from ungrafted vines.
Not much more can be said of Pato and his wines other than that he is a veritable genius who uses the best in science and tradition to make excellent and age worthy wines.
After we were finished at Luis Pato, we were off to Quinta do Encontro!
Quinta do Encontro
Quinta do Encontro was established in 2000 and the actual winery was designed to look like a barrel. The actual winery had started operation in 1930. A new cellar was construted in 2005!
Through the cylindracal shape of the building, one could easily view the continuous scene of the area and vineyards whereas within the building, the lounge, bar, restaurant with its meals based on wines and finally the winery, preparee and informed us about the wines and vines of the area as well as the mechanics of winemaking.
Just before we went to have dinner we were treated to some great "Traditional Method" Sparkling Wine. We then went to the new cellars where the state of the art fermenting and storage equipment was. The area was competely computerized------so much so that it figured that Spock and Kirk could easily fit in. So--------they did in the form of Chuck and Greg. The skit lasted some ten minutes and then we were off to taste the wines with dinner.
Baga, Touriga Nacional, Casteloa, Tinto Roriz, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot for red wines and Bical, Maria Gomes, Arinto for white wines are the target grapes in this winery.
Carlo Lucas put us through a fine wine and food match up.
Wines Of Quinta do Encontro
White
Bical: Pleasant, fresh and nice fresh flavours of citrus melon with a nice acidity and some minerality.
Encontro One:Made from Arinto and Bical. Fresher than the previous wine with more acidity and citrus and herbaceousness. Nice fresh finish with a rounder mouthfeel than the above.
Encontro Red:A blend of Baga and Merlot! Wine is round, firm as per mouthfeel Flavours of ripe red and black fruit with a reference to power that only Baga can emit. Merlot makes the wine far more approachable and the two wines blend together to give a nice concentration that was a result of the heat of that vintage.
Encontro Preto Brango: Bical is a white grape that can be blended with other whites to flesh out the resulting wine. It achieves the same with reds and in this case they are heavy weights. Touriga Nacional and Baga. It does tame them a bit but in this case, a bit is enough. The ripe fruits come out and the smoothness of the wine is evident when one drinks it. Yet, the Baga and Touriga manage to keep their identities in tact albeit a bit smoother and less tough.
Grande Encontro: This is a potential block buster that has three tough and versatile grapes-------all of which by themselves will make fine and long lasting wines but the three is like having the Three Muskateers earnestly swordfighting with a child beginer---all at one time! Touriga Nacional, Merlot and of course that wine from Bairrada, Baga! The result is a mixture of very ripe and powerful fruit flavours with a great potential of being class contenders. Red and Black fruits plus a lovely stenght and inner core that will last for a very long time!
Quinta Do Encontro One (red). Baga and Touriga. Nice wine with capablity of longer keeping plus a chance to weigh in a fair bit of power.
Sparkling White: Made made with Arinto and Bical via the Classical Method. Small bubbles, bread/yeast/some floral and pleasant sparkling acidity.
Sparkling:T0uriga Naciaonal, Refute, Castelao! Group of heavy weights who are having a desire to make some very light ones. The wine has various fruit indicators from the baga, TN, Refute and Casteloa grape. The wine is well rounded and very well integrated.
We had a fine meal with the wines provided and then went to the Curia Palace to register for the night!
End Of Day Six!
We registered at the Estalagem do Convento, a fabulous hotel that was built in 1830 as a Nunnery for a religious order of Nuns. Plans fell apart however and the nuns did not come so the place was turned into an inn and then a hotel which it is today. After we registered we were off to Obidos Castle and a restaurant within its walls.
The town of Obidos is a spectacular scenic spot where one sees narrow cobbled streets, terracotta roof tiles, flower covered walls, and of course, in the middle of it all, Obidos Castle which was originally built by the Romans. Legend has it that King Dinis offered it to his wife, Queen Isabella of Aragon in the 13th Century.
The Moors (Turks) had control of the castle until 1148 when the King and his men disguised as trees------TREES!!!!-----trees took back control and renovated it. The castle was severely damaged by the Earthquake of 1755 (which incidentally, caused a huge Sumani which destroyed much of Lisbon. One can see the newly restored buildings as compared to the old untouched ones in the lower quarter!
Obidos Castle is walled all the way around with many homes and businesses within it. One enters the castle through a very narrow gate that probably existed as a draw bridge of sorts in the past. Since the streets are very narrow and look very 17th Century, it is easier for people to walk to the main castle rather than drive.
The castle proper has been turned into a hotel (some of the rooms were in the actual castle and very inviting---talking about sleeping in history! The restaurant complex was called "pousada do castelo"! The restaurant is fine dining and the service is absolutely excellent. Our treat for the night is when we went there and ate a superb Grilled Sea Bass. Our wine was a phenomenal Luis Pato White. We had a fine evening and then a great sleep at the Convento as I called it. Unfortunately there were no nuns to tuck me in!
The following morning we had quite the breakfast at the Convento's restaurant and then off we went to visit the great Luis Pato----Mr. Baga! The Curia region within Bairrada is a lush oasis which has been known for its "thermal waters" since Roma times. It is here that Mr. Pato makes his fine wines and has become known as "Mr. Bairrada" and "Mr. Baga "for the grape he loves so much!
Luis Pato!
Hes a living legend and had the manner of one when Greg, Marcio and I went to meet him at his winery at Ribeirro da Gandara. He walked dignified towards us with a welcoming gesture. His family have been producing wine at Quinta do Ribeirinho since the 18th Century. Luis followed his father, Joao who started making the wine in Bairrada in 1970 and inherited his pioneer spirit, introducing many new styles and technologies that were alien to the area at the time.
Mr. Pato exclusively has Portuguese grapes in his 65 hectare winery. The varieties he has re Baga, Touriga Nacional, Maria Gomes. Bical, Cerceal, Sercialinho and Arinto.
We toured his wine cellars with their natural coolness and saw his impressive library which contains his wines from various vintages. Pato wines are noted for their longevity and complexity.
There is also lodging at the House of Ois where viistors can stay and eat in what was the old wine cellar of the house.
Lunch
For lunch, Mr. Pato took us to Sangalhos to have the "Pride of Bairrada, Roast Suckling Pig". Roast Sucklling Pig is a 2 to 6 week old "Pigglet" (sorry "Winnie") that is still sucking milk from its mother. It is roasted slowly until very tender. This dish in various incarnations has been a delicacy since at least Roman times and has been perfected in Bairrada. I must say that it goes well with the Luis Pato Wines.
Wines
The wines of Louis Pato are truly amazing. Tasted from barrel they come out as though they were meant to be enjoyed immediately but his wines last and last. The white wines such as the Maria Gomes are fresh, with honey and apple flavours. His Reds, especially the Touriga Nacional and Baga have raspberry, blackberry and chocolate tastes which become jammy as they age.
Here are three wines now available at the LCBO in Ontario, Canada.
Vinha Barossa: Made from 80 year vines, this wine is full, round and meaty. Excellent.
Vinha Pan:Medium bodied with ripe red fruit. Nice structure!
Quinta Do Ribeirinho Baga: Bold, well integrated fruit flavours, very long finish. This wine is made from ungrafted vines.
Not much more can be said of Pato and his wines other than that he is a veritable genius who uses the best in science and tradition to make excellent and age worthy wines.
After we were finished at Luis Pato, we were off to Quinta do Encontro!
Quinta do Encontro
Quinta do Encontro was established in 2000 and the actual winery was designed to look like a barrel. The actual winery had started operation in 1930. A new cellar was construted in 2005!
Through the cylindracal shape of the building, one could easily view the continuous scene of the area and vineyards whereas within the building, the lounge, bar, restaurant with its meals based on wines and finally the winery, preparee and informed us about the wines and vines of the area as well as the mechanics of winemaking.
Just before we went to have dinner we were treated to some great "Traditional Method" Sparkling Wine. We then went to the new cellars where the state of the art fermenting and storage equipment was. The area was competely computerized------so much so that it figured that Spock and Kirk could easily fit in. So--------they did in the form of Chuck and Greg. The skit lasted some ten minutes and then we were off to taste the wines with dinner.
Baga, Touriga Nacional, Casteloa, Tinto Roriz, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot for red wines and Bical, Maria Gomes, Arinto for white wines are the target grapes in this winery.
Carlo Lucas put us through a fine wine and food match up.
Wines Of Quinta do Encontro
White
Bical: Pleasant, fresh and nice fresh flavours of citrus melon with a nice acidity and some minerality.
Encontro One:Made from Arinto and Bical. Fresher than the previous wine with more acidity and citrus and herbaceousness. Nice fresh finish with a rounder mouthfeel than the above.
Encontro Red:A blend of Baga and Merlot! Wine is round, firm as per mouthfeel Flavours of ripe red and black fruit with a reference to power that only Baga can emit. Merlot makes the wine far more approachable and the two wines blend together to give a nice concentration that was a result of the heat of that vintage.
Encontro Preto Brango: Bical is a white grape that can be blended with other whites to flesh out the resulting wine. It achieves the same with reds and in this case they are heavy weights. Touriga Nacional and Baga. It does tame them a bit but in this case, a bit is enough. The ripe fruits come out and the smoothness of the wine is evident when one drinks it. Yet, the Baga and Touriga manage to keep their identities in tact albeit a bit smoother and less tough.
Grande Encontro: This is a potential block buster that has three tough and versatile grapes-------all of which by themselves will make fine and long lasting wines but the three is like having the Three Muskateers earnestly swordfighting with a child beginer---all at one time! Touriga Nacional, Merlot and of course that wine from Bairrada, Baga! The result is a mixture of very ripe and powerful fruit flavours with a great potential of being class contenders. Red and Black fruits plus a lovely stenght and inner core that will last for a very long time!
Quinta Do Encontro One (red). Baga and Touriga. Nice wine with capablity of longer keeping plus a chance to weigh in a fair bit of power.
Sparkling White: Made made with Arinto and Bical via the Classical Method. Small bubbles, bread/yeast/some floral and pleasant sparkling acidity.
Sparkling:T0uriga Naciaonal, Refute, Castelao! Group of heavy weights who are having a desire to make some very light ones. The wine has various fruit indicators from the baga, TN, Refute and Casteloa grape. The wine is well rounded and very well integrated.
We had a fine meal with the wines provided and then went to the Curia Palace to register for the night!
End Of Day Six!
posted by Chuck Byers - Wine Consultant | 5:14 AM
<< Home