Name:
Location: Whitby, Ontario, Canada

Born in Malta but in Canada since age 5. Has written three books and presently does several columns about wine and food for various magazines.

Sunday, May 31, 2020

Those Etna Wines Can Be Quite Exciting!

In his astounding book on Volcanic Wines, Master Sommelier, Author and Wine Consultant John Szabo mentioned that there was enough "sensory data" to justify a "volcanic wine" category! While I have not studied volcanic wine to any great degree, I do very much agree. What little experience I have has been with several volcanic regions such as the Azores where I personally  have traveled and my tastings of wines from some other volcanic regions.
Wines from volcanic regions have a special way about them. They have the ability to be both fruit forward, easy on tannin and yet, long lived. The experience I have had with Quinta da Jardinete from the island of Sao Miguel, Azores which, by the way, is an active volcanic area proves the point.
It's reds are full, round with active fruit and a mineral finish that is very pleasing.
Recently I was asked to taste and rate several red wines from the Etna wine region of Sicily.
White
label

Occhi di Ciumi        Carricante/Grecainico  grapes    2019
Nose: Floral with tropical fruit
Palate: Medium, fresh with a fullness of flavour         
Great with shell fish, veggie dishes and as an aperitif                                                          92/100

label

Red
Lu Veru Pieciri       Nerello Cappuccio/Nerello Mascalese grapes 2016
Nose: Red fruits, nuts, coffee, spice, cinnamon, chocolate
Palate: Smooth and full with a fresh dry finish  
Indeed a very pleasing wine that should be tried with Pork Roast, Capon or  light meat.           93/100

label

O'Scuru, OScuru    Nerello Mascalese/Cappuccio        2017                                               
Nose: Ripe black fruit, vanilla, rich with nuances of coffee
Palate: Full, round and smooth with a persistent finish
This is a meat wine that demands roast beef, lamb or Osso Buco.                                      96/100  

label
Muddichi di Suli      Nerello Mascalese variety           2016                                                        
Nose: Elegant with cherry and red fruit flavours, spices, some smoke
Palate: Easy tannin, medium body, mineral and nice long finish
Pasta with meat sauce, Pasta with mushroom sauce or beef.                                               90/100
label

La Fata Galanti       Nerello Cappuccio                   2016                                                                           Nose: Rich with cherry and red fruit and clove spice
Palate; Medium body with moderate tannin, smooth and pleasant finish                             
Try with grilled meat and tiger shrimp and found it quite adaptable to many foods.        95/100

label
Lu Disiu                    Nerello Mascalese Appasimento         2017                                                                Nose: Rich nuances of caramel, raisins, apricot with ripe black fruit
Palate: Fresh, round with elegant sweetness. Lasting finish
After dinner drink or with medium sweet dessert                                                                  94/100

The wine of Al-Cantera Winery near Etna are indeed as special as their poetic labels and deserve to be tried. Here's to raising a glass to Volcanic Wine!