Southern Ontario's Successful Difficult 2019 Vintage
General Topography
of Southern Ontario
Wine
Country in Ontario lies between 42 and 45 degrees North Latitude which is well
within the common wine making regions in the Northern Hemisphere and
corresponds with those of the Southern Hemisphere though there are some
Geographic differences which in turn affect the vineyards.
The
greatest influence to the vineyards and climate of Southern Ontario is the
nearness to the large bodies of water. The Great Lakes affect the Southern
Ontario climate all year long.
The
Niagara Peninsula, Lake Erie North Shore, Prince Edward County are all
influenced by the nearness to Lake Ontario which moderates the climate. Each in
turn are also affected by land topography.
The
Niagara Escarpment which is the remnant of a weathered slope and also an ancient sea
shore, stretches East/West from New York State, through Ontario, Canada and
Wisconsin, Michigan and Illinois.
The
air current movements caused because of the escarpment basically cool the
region in summer and warm it in winter though that is the most simplistic of
answers.
As
Lake Ontario affects Niagara so does it affect the climate of Prince Edward
County ---making it much milder than it would be but accounting for much snow
in winter. Lake Erie has the same effect on its North Shore vineyards.
Description of Wine
Regions
Lake Erie North
Shore:
This
is easily the warmest of the three appellations and includes a group of islands
called the Southern Islands one of which was an appellation unto itself, Pelee
Island, until 2016 when it was made a sub appellation.
Lake
Erie North Shore has influences from many rivers and stream though the main
influences are the unobstructed south west breezes which come from the warm,
shallow lake near them thus resulting in vines that mature earlier than the two
other appellations.
The
soils which are the result of glacial deposits and loam left over from past
bodies of water. Limestone forms the bedrock.
Prince
Edward County:
The
newest viticulture area and designated appellation is arguably said to much
resemble Burgundy in both climate and wine though that is just an opinion.
Certainly the temperature variances are great with as much as with 30 degrees
Centigrade during some summers and minus 30 degrees Centigrade in some winters.
Once
again the area is strongly under the influence of lake breezes which moderate
the climate.
An
example of the huge amount of water permeating the limestone base of the region
is the "Lake on the Mountain" which appears to have no outlets. The
lake is a "Collapsed Doline" ------ a limestone dome which had
numerous streams grinding their way through it and under it. The dome finally
collapsed due to the continuous carving by the streams and formed what is now a
large lake in the middle of the County.
In
addition, due to the many slopes, ridges and escarpments that line the region
there are many microclimates and soil structures that provide grounds for
distinctive wine.
The
soil consists of clay loam on top of broken and cracked ancient limestone
bedrock which allows for vine roots to go deep.
As an example is the remarkable differences between wines found in
Waupoos as compared with those of Wellington or Picton areas.
Niagara Peninsula:
By
far this is the largest and most versatile region in Wine Country Canada. As
mentioned prior it is mostly influenced by Lake Ontario however the Niagara
Escarpment with its height (nearly 600 feet) affects the off shore/on shore
breezes which in turn affect the development of the vines.
Once
considered its own appellation, the Peninsula has now been divided into a
number of appellations with their own distinctive "terroir" and thus
producing their own distinctly typical wine.
Several
micro clime sub-appellations exist under two main regional appellations of The Niagara Escarpment and
Niagara-on-the-Lake!
Some
of these are named: The Beamsville Bench, Four Mile Creek, Niagara Lakeshore
and St. David's Bench.
Soils
are well drained and glacial in nature atop of shale and limestone bedrock with
silt and clay deposits in Lakeshore vineyards.
General Climate of
Southern Ontario
Monthly Weather Patterns
During 2019
2019
began on a mild note with mild temperatures throughout Southern Ontario.
However the temperature turned very cold from the middle and towards the end of
January with very low minus
temperatures. The up and down
temperature patterns continued throughout February
with some very mild daytime temperatures and some low minus temps towards
the end of the month.
March began well below average
temperatures and aside from a period of mild temperatures around the middle of
the month, it hovered around the average until its end.
April continued the cool
trend below average daytime temperatures though SW Ontario did enjoy some high temps.
The general cool trend continued in May
with daily highs well below average.
June temperatures
remained below average for the most part with a resurgence of temperatures
towards the end of the month and into July.
July proved a warmer
month with temperatures slightly to much above average.
August with a bit of a fluctuation
towards the end, registered generally average to above average daily
temperatures.
September proved to be a slightly
below average until a warming trend became established from the middle of the
month towards the end. October generally showed average to
slightly below daytime temps. November started the month with some
sharp drops in temperature for most regions during the most of the month. The
cold trend continued until middle of the
month when they plunged even further to low double digit minus temperatures.
From the 21st of December to the present (January
5th) there has been a mild trend of above average temperatures.
Precipitation in
2019
Southern
Ontario received an above amount of total precipitation in 2019. March,
April and May were rather wet followed by a drier June, July and August though August was not the
normal hot month. September was dry but October was unusually high with 136 mms
or rain alone. November was intensely cold as was the beginning to mid December
with accumulative snow. Late December saw mild temperatures and rain.
Grape Development
During 2019
Grape development was slow due to the cold spring and delayed warm
weather. The fluctuation of temperatures from "frigid" to
"thaw" caused me to feel that the vines could be in danger. This was
substantiated in an earlier article that I did by winemaker Paul Batillana
concerning the cold weather and subsequent warming he stated:
“We hit minus 27 Celsius at the winery. We only tied down
(covered) whatever we wanted to keep the following year. Any of ours left above
ground will be dead!”
On the same article I had interviewed Gerald Klose, Viticulture Director for Arterra Wines in Niagara who had this
to say:
"Winter in Niagara was
cold! … some slight bud damage on vinifera varieties. We do not anticipate any
loss of vines or …potential crop----!"
Caroline Granger at the Grange of Prince Edward County Winery
stated
while they had
"---four significant and extended thaws, it was early in the
season and there was little risk of dormancy being disturbed."
The
cooler than normal March, April and May certainly would have affected bud
formation and break.
Daniel
Lafleur, Representative for Tawse Winery on the Niagara Bench and Michelle
Saba, Director of Communications (through Paul Kassebaum, SVP of Operations and
Head Winemaker for Arterra Wine) both said that the Spring was wet and cold and
vine growth was delayed!
Reports
from all viticulture areas had "an unusual spring", "delayed
start to season" and "challenging weather".
While
spring was wet, the "Sun Gods" did shine their glory from the middle
of June to September.
Alex
Sproll of Trail Estate Winery in Prince Edward County reported
"contrasting dry weather" in the following months!
"
We seemed to be in a pocket of dry weather
during June/July/August which stressed the vines considerably with smaller
fruit and yellowing leaves. Not quite as dry perhaps as 2016, but we did hand
water later in august and this helped preserve some of the fruit. Certainly
after the wetness of the spring, the dryness of summer proved this was a season
of contrasts. Anecdotally, deeper soil levels certainly paid dividends"
During
the summer months of July/August and into September reports from various
vineyards ranged from "catching up" and "excellent growing
season-----normal crop" from the Niagara Bench and Niagara- on-the- Lake
respectively to an August struggle with Veraison and an estimated harvest start of mid October
in Prince Edward County.
Luckily,
surprise was on hand and in spite descriptions of "Fall setting in by
September and delaying the ripening process" (Niagara Bench) and predictions of an early frost/snow, the
vintage was basically "saved" by a warm period in mid September and
fast work by vineyard owners.
Harvest
Success
at the harvest depended on the type of grape variety harvested. The hybrid Baco
Noir grape was among the first harvested (NOTL) while early ripening grapes
such as Pinot Noir, Riesling and Chardonnay were harvested on time however on
the Vineland Bench:
"A few of the later
ripening varietals did not make it to full ripeness because the colder
temperature and frost came quickly at the end of October and early November... …"
Prince
Edward County was a surprise on two fronts.
Near
Wellington Caroline Granger of The Grange Winery noted the following :
"--- --- the summer was warm and dry. Maggie (daughter/winemaker) and I
watched and tended the plants hoping we would be able to ripen before the snow.
It seemed too much to hope for never had a year been so late and as August
waned and the fields struggled through Veraison late we estimated harvest might
begin mid October. The first round of brix testing in the third week of
September though was surprising the Pinot Gris was ripe and ready to go and so
with one days notice harvest began. While the crop was lighter than usual the
fruit was exceptional and over the next 4 weeks we began to fill our tanks with
the sticky bounty nature and the vines had so generously provided. The warm
fall gave us warm fruit with lively yeast cultures on the skins; natural
fermentations were spontaneous and smooth. This year all of our whites from
Pinot Gris through Sauvignon Blanc saw extended skin contact giving us a
colourful array of white wines.
As with every vintage by the
time the fermentations have ended and the wines have been racked and tucked
away for their rests the work and worry of the season is replaced with a sense
of awe for the beauty these humble fields offer up year after year."
Not
far from The Grange but having a somewhat different topographical make up Trail
Estates Winery indicated that their reds had a higher amount of acidity and
that it is using Geotextiles to increase soil
stability, provide erosion control or aid in drainage and thus assist in future
vine development. .
"This past year was also the first
year we had our entire vineyard under geotextiles and we’re confident this will
help in the future. Certainly from a vine and soil health POV there are
benefits as we now avoid turning the soil over and can plant complimentary
cover crops. Vines are also not buried now, so they should be happier long
term. From a vineyard practice POV, it makes Spring less hectic as well as
preserving more buds, which once the vines are older should mean more fruit —
not as much as in other regions but we may one day approach 2T/acre after
1-1.5T/acre in past harvests. Additionally, as weather becomes more
unpredictable (global warming IS a thing) in shoulder seasons, this
flexibility, we think, will become essential and provides insurance against a
late frost or a wet or hot spring"
As
mentioned previously much of seasonal development and harvest success depended on the actual grape
varieties. Even in a similar location, choosing the correct grape for the
region may have made the difference.
The
general climate of Waupoos not far from Cape Vessey where Delgatto Estates Winery
is located is warmer than further "up" near the region near
Wellington. The grapes used generally are those of a hybrid nature though wine
maker Patrick Delgatto has come up with some rare surprises such as an awesome
"Pinotage!"
"Weather-wise,
we had timely rains through the season. Vines were able to grows without
water stress.
Throughout the summer we had very few
degree days over 30, which typically makes the vines shut down into
preservation mode.
Rains did come in the late summer and
early fall. We had to wait for windows of opportunity to continue
harvest. Additional rains will drop the Brix (sugar) levels in the grapes
and so a few days have to go by to regain those desired brix levels.
The introduction of the Marquette to the VQA
has validated the hard work of many vineyards and winemakers in producing high
quality wines.
The vine itself is well suited for
the Ontario climate and will no doubt be a big part in the development of other
DVA regions in the province.
It's exciting to know that with the
introduction of cold hardy varieties such as the Marquette, it will allow grape
growing to expand into northern regions like the Ottawa valley and the Kawartha
region".
According
to most wineries contacted harvest was completed as early as the end of October
to mid to late November.
Due
to the extreme November cold, many wineries made Icewine in November. Donald
Ziraldo, Canada's ambassador of wine; the man who started the whole boutique
winery craze going in 1975 as well as the man whose Inniskillin 1989 Vidal Icewine
put Canada on the World Wine Map said that while no Icewine was made from the
original Inniskillin vineyard this year, he did have a regular Reisling harvest
and his Vidal would be picked later in January. He now makes a stupendous
Ziraldo Icewine.
Prognosis
The general attitude for 2019 seems
optimistic of a large to medium harvest with good quality wine. Niagara
Peninsula, Lake Erie North Shore and Prince Edward County vineyards are all
seeing positive harvests. Delgatto seems to summarize the general feeling of
this difficult vintage! "The 2019
harvest provided both quality and quantity (much like 2012). The sugar levels
were good, the acidity was slightly higher than normal (but certainly easy to
work with).
Our white grapes will be as great as
the 2012 harvest. The aromas are off the charts.
Reds are aging nicely in barrels and
all indications show these will be stellar vintages as well.
Our barrels of Pinotage have
outstanding aromas of chocolate and mocha, blackberry/black cherry.
Seemed to be the case throughout most
of the grape growing regions in Ontario."
Many are predicting a marvelous Pinot
Noir year!
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