Name:
Location: Whitby, Ontario, Canada

Born in Malta but in Canada since age 5. Has written three books and presently does several columns about wine and food for various magazines.

Sunday, May 6, 2012

April 19th: Villagio Grando and a View From The Top

Breakfast At Tirol
Today was one of those rare days that we were not scheduled to leave at 6:30, 7:30 or 8:30 AM but at 10:30 AM. I woke up around 7 AM and spent some time on the room balcony over looking over at the uniquely shaped swimming pool four floors below. I could see a major part of the city from this height and from the looks of the streets, gardens, church steeples and symbolic statues such as the one of a man, woman and child dressed in traditional costume not far from the hotel . For all intents and purposes I could have easily been some seven thousand kilometres away in Austria which ironically we visited almost one year previous. The day was sunny and we were so very fortunate on this trip that the weather gods were very good and considerate.
The hotel did intrigue me. It was established in 1972 and in 1985 a new hotel was built. This hotel has undergone renovations ever since. Hotel Tirol was to be a symbol of Austrian decoration, culture, cuisine and architecture. I knew that it had achieved this end.  If one were to see this city from the air, it could easily be mistaken for an Alpine village.
I took the elevator to the first floor and made my way to the very spacious dining room. German/Austrian music filled the air. The on air disc jockey spoke in German. Large ceiling beams and heavy wooden tables and chairs gave a warm feeling to the area. A large hot and cold buffet complete with traditional food and pastry was at hand and of course there was a copious amount of coffee.
After breakfast I made my way back to my room and made ready for the trip to our next destination: Villagio Grando. At 10 AM I met Roy in front of the hotel. A few minutes later Sandie and Paula met us. Marcio was waiting for us in the van.
Soon we were off to Villagio Grando!
Villagio Grando Winery 
After being on the road for quite some time and ascending to some very high land, we arrived at a pair of beautiful interlocking wrought iron gates.There was a good sized VG in the middle where the two gates met. There was also a larger VG on a very large, seemingly granite frame.Once passed this gate, we drove down a long road bordered by tall, trellised grapevines still heavy with their Cabernet Sauvignon fruit.
As we came upon the actual building another large sign signified that we had reached Villagio Grando and before us was a large modern building overlooking a massive man made pond.
We were met by Guilherme Grando who was the Commercial Director and son of Mauricio Carlos Grando who was the owner. Both were exceptionally hospitable.
We were given a tour of the winery where we tasted some exceptional blend of wines. For example the gorgeous classic Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier Sparkling blend. The Merlot/Pinot Noir Brut Rose was equally good. The other still whites tasted Riesling, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc were exceptional also. The reds were also amazing. The Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot yet again as in other wineries were something to speak about with depth, power and grace.
On our tour of this modern facility, we barrel tasted some exceptional blends of both red and white wines.
One such blend involved, a trio of grapes Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Malbec. We also tasted a seven wine blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, Petit Verdot and Marcella. In addition, we tasted a white blend of late harvest wine with Gros Menseng and Petiti Menseng.  We also tasted an amazingly new brandy. We met the young or seemingly young winemaker whose humility was as great as his wines. Antonio Jose Saramago makes great wines.
Lunch
We were then led back to the main building where we were seated in the spacious dining room. The room was arranged with a large buffet lunch that was spread out in front of a massive stone fireplace. We sat down and looked out of the huge "picture window" that overlooked the pond. "Any fish?" I asked.        
"Black Bass", replied Mauricio Grando.
Ducks and water birds were also enjoying the scene as the afternoon sun shone on the glimmering pond.
Mauricio described some of the history of the winery. Apparently a friend of the family had come down and took a look at the area. He declared that the area was excellent for wine production. Soon afterward the founder Mauricio met with Jean Pierre Rosier (Where have we heard that name before???).
In 2000 Rosier brought down some seedlings and thus started a foundation for what was to become a testing area for vines. The resultant 42 Hectares produce some 240,000 bottles.
The success of the wines was exhibited in the wines we tasted for lunch. One such wine was called "Alem Mar" or "Over Seas" (Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Malbec) and "Innominable" (Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, Pinot Noir and Petit Verdot).     
After lunch we were told that we were going to pick grapes and then go to the highest point in the area.
We went back from whence we had come and obtained a couple of baskets where we pretended to pick grapes as a rather disdainful Commercial Director looked on. Guilherme just watched as we picked a bit from here and a bit from there. My basket kept on falling sliding off my shoulders. In Portugal the baskets were larger and kept on the ground. We took some pictures and then went to the point where we were to have our breaths taken away. Almost 1330 metres above the valley floor the view was magnificent. We took several pictures of Canadian Ice Wines next to the sign and on top of the high point we were at. A bottle of "Equifera" made by co-founder of Inniskillin Winery, and Canadian Wine Ambassador, Dr. Donald Ziraldo was left with our Commercial Director Host.
We bid our farewell to Guilherme and his father. Soon we were off back to our hotel in Treze Tilias.
 Back To The Hotel
Roy and I got together to observe some of the pictures and opened one of the majestic wines of Santa Catarina. By mistake we opened the top wine given to us by Nazario dos Santos of Quinta Santa Maria. It was a shame to open a magnificent bottle so young but when tasted all I could say was "Oh My God! Imagine what this will taste like in another five or six years if not twenty??"  It was already approachable with a roundness, elegance and depth of an ultra premium wine. Of course it was the Amarone style wine and it was a delight. I had a glass and said "This must be eaten with some food!"
So we went down to the hotel's restaurant and waited for the Sandie, Paula and Marcio to show. The wine accompanied the varied buffet that the hotel so competently prepared. Deli meat sausage, cheese, chicken, beef, vegetables and some super bread all made tremendous partners.  It was a highlight of the day.
The night went well and soon it was time to prepare for our final visit to a winery and our long trip back to Florainopolis. It was time to get some sleep.
End of Day Nine
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