Four Fast Days In Vienna (May 29th through June 1st)

May 29th! Seminars, Castles, Shallow Lakes and Gourmet Fare!!!
At first I resisted the idea of having compulsory meetings. After all, it was too much like school. A visit to the Weinakademie Osterreich (Austrian Wine Academy) cured that. The school is a revelation and modern is the word with state of the art class rooms and grounds that would make a groundskeeper jealous. The inside was as impressive as the impeccable outside but what else would one expect from Austria. Our driver and guide arrived us in plenty of time. Tibor (his name) was already becoming invaluable both for his professional approach and his willingness to help in any manner. He did not fail.
Sandie and I attended the lecture about the "Wine Wonderful Austria" presented by AWMB Managing Director Willi Klinger and Christian Zechmeister of Wein Burgenland.
The lecture offered insight into the Academy which is not only the largest of its kind in Europe but also offers wine courses from Basic to a Master of Wine. One of the newest additions is the Rare Wine Specialist Course.Here were tasted some fourteen wines ranging from Sauvignon Blanc, Gruner Veltliner, Pinot Blanc and Riesling to Zierfandler, Gemischter, Zweigelt and St Laurent to Blaufrankisch to blended wines (Zweigelt, Blaufrankisch, Merlot) and (Furmint/Muskateller). Style also varied from fresh, dry and mouth puckering whites to earthy, fruity reds to the sumptuous and delicious sweet dessert wines. Regardless of what was the style, the wines produced were well made and (this is what I liked best) especially suited to food which of course is what I think wine should be all about.
Burgenland is absolutely beautiful with many tiny villages in the area and vineyards abounding. It has Two main cities Eisenstadt and Rust. In many ways, this area reminded me of California's Napa and Sonoma of earlier times.
Here it seems that the Gruner Veltliner is king of grapes. This grape certainly reflects its soils very well and for the most part offers at the basic level excellent mineral laden wine while at its best provides an experience that is both exciting and seductive with a fresh flinty nose and tropical flavours. Indeed this up and coming new comer is a must for those in North America wanting value and long lived charm. Some may not like the fresh acidity of this wine but as for me and many other professionals at various tastings, it proved a winner.
Esterhazy Castle
After the seminar we headed to Eisenstadt, the capital of Burgenland, where we had lunch and a tour of Esterhazy Castle. Lunch consisted of Burgenland specialties such as local salads, roast beef and dessert (Biscuits with Vanilla Cream and Chocolate Sauce). First can an aperitif of sparkling wine (Pinot Noir and Chardonnay).
The Salad was a perfect match to the Sauvignon Blanc from Estoras whose herbal qualities and bright acidity dealt well with the greens. The main course of Roast Beef (Joint) with Vegetables and Potatoes was well matched to an excellent Blaufrankisch (a dark wine with a definite fruity and spicy character). Finally the dessert was matched to an amazing Trockenbeerenauslese.
All the wines were from the Esterhazy Winery and exceptional in both their makeup and food matching quality. Once more the food and wine merge into sublimity.
Tour
The castle was built in the 13th Century and came under the Esterhazy ownership in the 17th. They added many of the Baroque features. As with many 300 year old castles, the history displayed here is massive with representations from different periods of the castle's (and families') evolution. A wine tasting was held with several more representations of the areas wines and then we went on a boat tour
Lake Neusiedlersee Boat Tour
Sparkling Wine Tasting
We drove from Eisenstadt to Rust where Illmitz (Drescher) Lines were waiting with a "shallow water" boat to take us across a very shallow but wide lake. The lake was basically four feet deep and almost surrounded by tall, bamboo type plants about six feet high. On the boat was held a wine tasting of sparkling wines presented by Szigetti along with some very fine pastry cakes.
The wines were from Gruner Veltliner, Muskat Ottonel and a blend of Zweigelt and Blaufrankish grapes which produced a very nice Rose.
Sweet Wine Tasting
Austria certainly enjoys a history of making sweet wines. We went to the Weinkulturhaus in Gols to taste 14 sweet wines from various styles. The wines ranged from a Spatlese and Auslese to Beerenauslese, Eiswein and Trockenbeerenauslese wines. My favourite was a Ruster Ausbruch which had a lovely nose of burning leaves and a palate of smoke, honey, minerality and some citrus.
Pannonian Dinner at Nyikospark Restaurant
A fine wine and food match was presented by the above restaurant with the following menu:
The evening started with a Small Hill Rose from Lentsch Franz
Chantrelle Mushrooms with Mushroom Soup. followed with a match of
Pinot Gris and Weissburgunder from Andeas Liegenfeld and Kaiser.
Fillet Of Pike-Perch mit Maize
Chardonnay and Chardonnay/Gruner Veltliner Blends.
Lamb With Shallots In Red Wine
Blaufrankisch and a blend of Zweigelt, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.
Cream Slice With Berries
Beerenauslese (Velich) and Ruster Ausbruch (Gunter Triebaumer).
This meal was decadent and after a day of drinking wines, we drank still more wines.
With that in mind, we ended our day by checking in at the Hotel Pannonia Tower -------and by the way, we were all driven and not one person that drove was drinking that night.
To be continued!