Ask Chuck

Frosty Icewine Harvest At Inniskillin Winery Done Early In The Morning

2012-01-07T17:54:00.000-08:00

The Call
Tuesday, January third, was a regular day as I worked on an assignment for "This Week", one of Metroland's (TorStar) local newspaper/magazines. The call came just as I was completing the rough draft of the article.
"Chuck? Debi Pratt! Just wanted to tell you that Bruce (Nicholson) has decided to do the Icewine harvest tonight as it is expected to go down to minus thirteen and he likes the grapes well frozen!"
Deborah Pratt is the Media Relations Manager/Director for Inniskillin Wines and had promised to contact me in relation to their Ice wine harvest as soon as the word came from the Chief Winemaker, Bruce Nicholson.
Picking Icewine grapes is one of those things that can be "iffy" when the temperatures fluctuate as much as they had been the previous days. Daytime "highs" close to the +10 degrees Celsius degree mark were not conducive to picking grapes that were especially left on the vines to be picked at a temperature of at least -8 degrees Celsius----preferably for at least three consecutive days. We had a couple of quite cold days and that evening the temperature was supposed to plummet to at least -13 degrees or colder. To make sure, they were going to pick at the ungodly hour of One AM! Would we like to come?
Since the whole purpose of our visit was to film the picking of the grapes, that time in the morning would not be suitable for getting good visuals (thank God!) and since the romanticism
of Icewine picking by mechanical harvester did not do the trick for me, I opted to choose a much more hospitable (and much more visual) time of getting there by seven thirty AM. Even so we had to leave by five AM to arrive in time to start filming.
Cold Filming
Roy and I were off dark and early and managed to get there on time with about ten minutes to spare. The winery was basically deserted with the exception of the harvest crew which were bringing over containers filled with frozen Vidal grapes freshly brought from the Montague and Woerthle vineyards (both vineyards are part of the newer Four Mile Creek Sub-Appellation) over to the destemmer crusher which ironically did not need to destem the grapes since the mechanical harvesters were not only quick in their picking of the grapes but also left most of the stems on the vines while the berries were shaken into the containers.
Debi stated that "Bruce actually waited until he felt the weather was at its coldest and that the grapes were all frozen." At -11 and -13 I guess they would be.
The berries went from the crusher to cylindrical containers which in turn were taken to pneumatic presses that pressed the grapes----their juice running into a catch basin flowing into storage containers. This was all done outside while the temperature was still -7 degrees.
Mechanical Harvesters
The romantic notion of freezing one's hands (as well as other very special and sensitive parts of the body) while picking grapes in the dead of night during the equally dead of winter only lasts until that first frost bitten finger tip and/or bit of snow/ice melts one's boot! Then the reality hits and the word "insanity" comes to the fore!
Mechanical Harvesters not only do the work of a multitude of people but in the dark of night and being insensitive to pain or cold, they also do a better job. Looking at the grapes in the containers. the harvesters completed all the vineyards in one night under pretty optimum conditions.
Tasting The Juice
Debi brought over several glasses so we could taste the freshly pressed juice. Bruce commented:
"I am very pleased with these levels of concentration. We have 39 Briks!" (One Brik is equal to one gram of sugar per 100 gram solution and is a measure of sweetness). The juice was indeed very sweet-----almost like a liqueur itself. I was imagining how it would taste as a fully fledged Icewine.
The filming sequences went well and we managed (just barely) to keep out of the way of the forklift trucks transporting the containers back and forth while doing our interviews. we were later escorted by Debi to the staff lounge for a much needed coffee and snacks.
Since it was still morning we took our closeness to Niagara-on-the-Lake to head down to head down to Jackson-Triggs Winery and take have a quick visit with Del Rollo, Stacey Mulholland and Jen Cowan having a delicious breakfast at the Little Red Rooster Restaurant.
We ate and then hightailed it home arriving around one PM!
Inniskillin Icewine
Inniskillin Icewine has long been recognized as one of the World's greatest wines. The original event that put this wine on the world map was in 1991 when the Inniskillin Vidal Icewine won the best of show Platinum Medal in Bordeaux beating out many of the World's iconic sweet wines such as the famed Chateau d'Yquem. The original co-founders Dr. Donald Ziraldo and Dr. Karl Kaiser have now achieved legendary status among Canadian and World wine enthusiasts.
Award winning winemaker Bruce Nicholson is now taking their efforts to new heights.
Dr. Ziraldo has become a Canadian Ambassador of wine as well as a world class consultant.

Tuesday October 11th: Return To Prince Edward County----The Harvest Route!

2011-10-13T13:28:00.000-07:00

The Gang Together Once Again
Roy picked me up early on that Tuesday morning and we headed to Oshawa to pick up Sandie Kraft. It would be good to have the three of us together again after such a long hiatus with Roy and I exploring Quebec and Prince Edward Island by ourselves. As we drove up to the "Shake Shingled" house Sandie stuck out her head saying it would be a couple of minutes.
Within a brief period of time, out she came sporting a very "Autumn" coloured outfit that looked very good on her. Her long blond hair and white skin was certainly complimented by the golden browns and yellows in her outfit.
Bright and quite lively for that time in the morning, she made it seem like we had never been apart. Off the three of us went to the 401 east to Prince Edward County. Our first stop was at The Grange of Prince Edward County and a meeting with beautiful owner, Caroline Granger. Caroline was busy with harvest but was gracious enough to meet us in the vineyards and allow us to shoot the grape picking.
The Grange of Prince Edward Island
"My father named the place the Grange as part of a play with words!" Caroline Granger stated as we were standing amidst the mature, sweet Gamay Noir grapes that were being picked by the Mexican vineyard workers.
"The Grange was a farm and the workers of the farm were called "Grangers" so since our name was Granger we called this farm/winery: The Grange." At the time I also noted that the word "Grange" had its origins from the Latin word for "grain". Regardless of the meaning, it was evident that the name used for the winery was exceptionally well chosen.
The farm's history went back to the beginning of the 19th Century with the barn that now houses the winery and boutique being built in 1826. Caroline's father, Robert, purchased the property and it was thus named.
Caroline has always had her finger on the pulse of every aspect of this winery in addition she was elected as a director and Secretary of the Executive Committee of the Wine Council of Ontario and a director of the Canadian Vintners Association. One of her pet projects has been the "Harvestin' The County Program" which promoted local sustainable agriculture and local consumption. Caroline has also been known for her almost single handed and tireless efforts to have the area given a Designated Viticultural Area status which happened in 2007.
It has never ceased to amaze me what this former Ford model has accomplished in her still short lifetime.
Victoria Block
The Gamay Vines bore sweet succulent fruit with large berries. They were ripe and ready to make their way to the wine baskets once cut by the adept Mexican wine harvesters who come here from their country as part of a federally sponsored migrant workers program. These guys were fast. Sandie tried her hand at it and proved good but no match for the pros.
Boutique
Back at the boutique inside the old barn Sandie did a great "one on one" interview with Caroline where they tasted and discussed a new wine called "Paint The Town Red"! It was obviously a wine made to capitalize on the new wines that have come out similar to "Girls Night Out", "Strut" and "Open" but with a difference since it is carrying on a brand name "Trumpour's Mill" but with a byline of "Paint Your Town Red". The wine is Gamay Noir from the very grapes that we were watching being picked. It is light, easy but with great flavour. Another wine tasted was a late harvest Sauvignon Blanc which at thirty brix sweetness was not your average Sauvignon. A "Brix" is a sugar level measurement used by winemakers. It is the sugar content in an aqueous solution. Scientifically speaking one brix is the measure of one gram of sucrose per 100 grams of the solution.
Caroline called it "Lemonade" since it was a specialty with the intent of not to repeat. However, intended or not, it was almost sold out. The taste was superb and I would wish that similar "quirks" could be repeated--------often!
The visit went well. We found out that the Pinot Noir had already been picked and next on the agenda were the Cabernet Franc and Pinot Gris.
Weather worry were primary on most peoples' minds since the following day (Wednesday) rain was supposed to rear its ugly head. The rest of the week was supposed to be a "write off".
Rain at harvest produces a number of problems mainly that the grapes absorb water and become saturated with liquid plus the drops of water may not amount to much on a single grape but multiply that by thousands of berries and then you have a water problem on hand. Then there are the possibilities of mold and other moisture related maladies that may set in on grapes that are not picked. The worries are endless.
Looking out the window at the vineyard that stretched out for acres and of course that wonderful sunshine, everything seemed so good. I crossed my fingers as we said our good-byes and went on to our next destination.
Casa-Dea Estate Winery
We were met at the at the front door of the magnificent estate winery of the above name. Paul had just finished using the crusher/destemmer with the freshly picked Pinot Noir and placed the crushed grape must into big holding tanks or vats to ferment. Contact with the skins of the grapes was essential to colour and flavour. However, carbon dioxide forming as a result of the chemical fermentation brought the skins to the surface. Using a specialized tool called the "plunger" a rectangular flat board with a handle that acted as a press of sorts on the liquid, he was about to "plunge" the "grape cap" down to ensure that the skins which were buoyed up to the surface via carbon dioxide gas, kept in contact with rest of the fermenting liquid.
Balancing himself precariously on the edges of the holding tanks (vats) he would take hold of the handle and push the flat board down into the liquid right to the bottom and then back up. He repeated the procedure until certain that the mix was done correctly. The main "trick" was to "plunge" the "wine skin cap" down without making a splash or else grape juice would be sprayed all over the area and clothes. (Right Sandie: "It's not so easy is it Mr. Byers!!!!")
Both Sandie and I tried the task and could appreciate the size of the task at hand considering that he had so many to do. No wonder he was in such great shape.
Paul then took us up to the boutique where Paul did what he liked best----showing off his wines. I found that his Pinot Noir to be a great as ever as did Sandie. Cabernet Franc and Paul's pride and joy---the Pinot Gris were super also. I have always had a penchant for his Pinot.
With the tasting done, we drove down the road for a brief visit at Norman Hardie Wines.
Norman Hardie Winery
Norman Hardie experienced much in his journey with wine. He has gone to wine regions all over the world and worked with the legends of winemaking. Bringing this experience to Prince Edward County, he has culminated all these experiences into award winning wines. The challenge was great but so were the rewards. His wines have become much sought after especially his Pinot Noirs and Melon de Bourgogne.
When we arrived (unexpected) Norm was on the phone but joined us very shortly. I always found him very hospitable even when he was obviously busy and tired such as he seemed the day of our visit.
We discussed the season that had just passed and while Norm admitted that it was a challenging one, he also stated that challenging years many times produce wines that are better than those years that are ideal. "We are more caring for the vines, selective with the grapes and work harder to produce a better wine thus we achieve a better product."
I recalled the old saying that one cannot make good wines out of bad grapes but one can make bad wine out of good grapes and applied it to this scenario and concluded that the caring of the vines and selection must have worked well since the grapes in the vats looked very healthy and with good sugar. The myriad of wasps around the vats also made me think that these "hive bombers" agreed with me.
We did not stay long at Norman Hardie as we were somewhat expected at By Chadsey's Cairns and I wanted to get some shots of the cemetery and also of them picking grapes. So we were off to our last winery of the day.
By Chadsey's Cairns
The Sun was favourable when we filmed the scene at By Chadsey's Cemetery Plot. Here grave stones dating back to the late 18th Century were still visible. Of course the time of year, the leaves falling from coloured trees, the black birds on the trees all gave a feeling somewhat like that of an Edger Allen Poe story. It was ideal for what I had in mind. By now I would think that I retold the tale of Ira Chadsey and his reincarnation story many times but truthfully I never get tired of it. The story went something like this:
Ira Chadsey was born in 1823 and raised on the property eventually inheriting all of it. He was a bit (a bit!!!!) eccentric and believed that he would some day be reincarnated after death and come back as a white horse. To make sure that he could find his way home, he piled a series of stones leading to the settlement. These cairns were to guide him (as a horse) home. To add more intrigue to the situation, Ira committed suicide several years after his wife died in 1898. he so planned it that he shot himself in such a way as to fall into a huge fire that he had started. It is said that there was nothing left of him and that the only thing that was found the next day was the metal barrel of the gun he used to kill himself with.
The story does not completely end there. Some years later either in the late 1940's or early '50's, a white horse escaped from a local barn and found its way to the Chadsey property. Local residents were somewhat unnerved to see the stallion running through the old estate------they thought it was Ira returning. Interestingly enough the story does not say who actually owned the horse that got away------maybe Ira did get his wish.
Richard Johnston of By Chadsey's Cairns is an amazing fellow. This former politician (MPP) and academic (Council of Regents, Trent University Board of Directors and Pres. Centennial College), native issues (First Nation's Technical Institute). In spite of his acclaim, Richard is a very easy person to talk to and one can only surmise that this accomplished man is happiest by just being himself around those he likes.
Prior to meeting Richard, we did a few scenes on the back deck of the wine tasting boutique where the ambiance was perfect. Richard met us there and we got directions to the site where a group of persons were picking grapes----- Gamay to be exact. Richard went on ahead.
We drove the van over to the harvest site where we found Richard in a kneeling position with a cluster of Gamay in his hand. He inspected every cluster and carefully picked off parts that were not suitable. "You don't want anything but the best part of the grape to be used," he said, "so I make sure that only healthy parts of the cluster go into the basket."
Roy did some general shots and then it was time to leave. The day was fruitful and we accomplished much. I sometimes wonder what keeps me going to these same spots and filming things that I had seen so many years in a row. The answer was actually supplied by Roy who remarked, " We always come out of a shoot with something different----something that we never filmed before-----that's so cool!!!"
I realized that he was so very correct. Things may be similar but in reality they never are the same. New things kept on happening and that is what I loved about this business. It is always surrounded by an aura of discovery!!!

September 22nd Day Eight: Breakfast and Voyage Home

2011-09-30T05:10:00.000-07:00

Breakfast With Sebastian
It was a sad departure from the place that I called "Home" for over seven days. Platter House would forever be in my memories as one of the nicest experiences in my travels for three reasons. The first was that I actually stayed in one place more than one night. It was such a relief to have a place that I was familiar with and not to have to pack and unpack my clothes on a constant basis. The second was that I could leave my work on a table and go back to it without having to organize my "desk" every day. Most of all, the third and most important was that I simply fell in love with the building, the area, the sea, the birds, the tranquility, the smell, the silence------everything that was the Platter House. My whole hearted recommendation to anyone who is going to PEI for a visit is to check out this place. You will never be sorry!!!!!
Roy and I left the house around 8 AM to meet Paul Knox just outside of Charlottetown. Paul was going to drive and we follow to a restaurant where we were to meet Sebastian Manago for a final breakfast. We arrived in plenty of time to take a few pictures including one of me talking to a seated statue of John A. MacDonald. Funny!!!!!
We met with Sebastian and discussed the trip. The trip was amazing and Prince Edward Island certainly is one of Canada's beauty spots. The great things we saw and did would forever be remembered by both Roy and me. Sadly we only got six hours of footage compared to the 14 hours in Austria and Quebec but the footage was good and usable. Sebastian Manago deserves a great deal of credit for helping us achieve this goal and I will forever be indebted to him and the Government of Prince Edward Island.
Shortly before 9:30 AM Tara Jackson met us and we drove to the airport. Saying good-bye is never a pleasant thing because one never knows if future meetings will happen but in this case I knew that I would be in contact with Tara, Paul, Jan and Sebastian as well as Ken, Julie, Lynn, John, Mike, Sterling, Perry, Lucas, Melvin and all the others I met and made such friendship with.
We departed for Toronto at 12 Noon on September 22nd and somehow I left Prince Edward Island not feeling that I was from "Away" but from "Here"!
End Of Day Eight and Tour

September 21st Day Seven: Last Full Day In Prince Edward Island

2011-09-28T19:17:00.000-07:00

Off To PE Distillery

It was early in the morning when PEI Tourism representative Paul Knox picked us up at the Platter House. Tara Jackson was tied up with some work and he replaced her. Enthusiastic and full of excellent suggestions, Paul seem to be a veritable "go-getter" with an seemingly endless set of ideas. We were off to Prince Edward Distillery in Hermanville, not very far from where we were staying.
Owner/Distiller Julie Shore had a disarming smile that wouldn't quit. She greeted us like long lost friends making it difficult not to feel that we knew each other for years. I'm sure the others felt the same way. Julie and her partner Arla (who was away at the time) came up from North Carolina and decided to found a distillery based on potatoes.
They soon were making Potato Vodka and came up with the idea of making a vodka from wild blueberries. The result was that in 2009 their Potato Vodka won the Gold Medal at the San Francisco World Spirits Competition and the Blueberry Vodka won the Silver Medal at the United Kingdom International Spirits Challenge.
Julie gave us a tour which revealed a very complicated and impressive looking Column Still and then showed us the aging equipment and explained the process of making highly refined Vodka.
The tour ended with a small sampling of the product. I enjoyed meeting Julie and left feeling good that such people exist such as Ken Mill of Myriad View and Julie Shore of PE Distillery. Good stuff and both great products.
Prince Edward Island Railway
Construction of the Prince Edward Island Railway started in 1871, my guess as part of the plan for P.E.I.'s entrance into Confederation in 1873. On entry into Canada, the railway came under government control and later became part of the Canadian National Railway (CNR). The railway served many purposes and was continually upgraded. Cars, trucks and even airplanes eventually proved the demise of the railway which was "abandoned" in 1989 and dismantled in the early nineties. In 1994 the government purchased the existing land that was used for the railway, making recreational trails and paths along the former rail spots.
Elmira Railway Museum
In 1975 the Elmira Station/Railway Museum was opened. A number of stations in P.E.I. are being restored for posterity though many of the stations and rail way cars have been scrapped. Lynn Morrow, Manager of the Elmira Train Station Museum, mention that there were seven such restoration sites in the Province.
The original train station had five railway spurs, a coal shed, barn, bunkhouse and separate waiting rooms for men and women. Only the wooden station house with its telegraph and separate rooms had been restored.
The restoration had many attractions and artifacts dating back to "railway life' in the 19th and early 20th centuries. A model train ran around a model Prince Edward Island depicting the extent of the PEI Railway. A portion of the actual track was on display as were items such as telegraphs, clothing, utensils etc. People could sit on he platform and wait for a train that would never show up but they would get an idea of how it felt in those days and try to imagine what the railway meant as a form of transport before autos and planes took over. It was a slower time but not necessarily an inferior time.
Known as the "end of the line" Elmira's tracks have become another kind of track but now it's for recreation with some 23 kilometres of hiking, biking and sight seeing trails known as the Confederation Trail. The Elmira Station has become regarded as the gateway to this "Rails to Trails" system with a "Track's End Takeout" restaurant located next to the station present for those travelers needing sustenance after a hard afternoon of biking or hiking.
The station also has a gift shop and restroom facilities but note----be careful---I understand from very good sources that a "witch" has been spotted in that little room -----probably making sure that visitors do not have a "ghost" of a chance in forgetting their Elmira Train Station Museum experience. The train station will be holding it's 100th birthday in 2012. I wish it luck for the next 100 years. Thanks to Lynn Morrow for her great tour and information.
Tuna Capital Of The World
We made our way to the North Lake Harbour, which is known as the Tuna Capital of the World. North Lake is situated in a sheltered inlet in the Northeastern part of Prince Edward Island where tuna boats can seek refuge from the Gulf of St. Lawrence. There were no tuna coming in that day, though the boats were out---no one called in with a catch but this is where the tuna were brought and considering some could be over 1000 lbs in weight, it did not take much to come in with a catch. Tuna are caught with rod and reel and there are limitations to how many can be caught. Paul suggested that we go to lunch and then go back later.
Lunch at Sandstone
Paul took us to the Sandstone Restaurant situated overlooking the water of North Lake.
The restaurant was an amazingly nicely decorated and very clean. The food on other tables looked great. I ordered "Scallops on a Bun" along with a chowder while Roy ordered a "Lobster Sandwich". Paul ordered "Fish and Chips" but when the meal came out it was apparent that the fish being served was the size of one huge fish!!!! Paul could not finish it.
After lunch we contacted North Lake Harbour but no fish were coming in as yet so we decided to move on to the Eastpoint Lighthouse and the Pirate's Galley Cafe!
Eastpoint Lighthouse and Pirate's Galley Cafe
The area around Eastpoint is said to be very difficult to navigate with the "meeting of three tides" (being the Atlantic, Northumberland Strait and Gulf of St. Lawrence) and "three reefs" just off the point. In 1883, the lighthouse was actually moved to a location which was more appropriate after a British War Vessel ran aground following erroneous charts the year prior.
The lighthouse was constructed in 1867 and was 64 feet high (19.5 metres).
Next to the Eastpoint Lighthouse was the Pirate's Galley Cafe which was a restaurant with a twist.
Owned by Don Spear, this restaurant/cafe was famous not only for its food and delicious chowder but also for Don's recanting of old ghost stories. For example there is the tale of the burning ship.
The three masted ship is often seen off the coasts of Prince Edward Island and Nova Scotia usually in October in the Northumberland Strait. One account had it that one clear night a person was walking on the shore of Prince Edward Island's Northumberland Strait when he spotted a burning ship of which he could make out its three masts and outline. He watched it for twenty minutes and then it disappeared. On another occasion, some men tried to get to the ship but it vanished completely before they could get to it.
The restaurant's owner went on to tell of pirate history in the area and of how pirates used to wait for shipping to come around the point and then attack. He said that the likes of Blackbeard, Bluebeard and Captain Kidd were familiar with P.E.I.'s waters and some made their homes in the area.
Whether you believe in ghosts and ghost ships or not, these incidents did happen and while explainable in one way or another, they are intriguing.
Basin Head "Singing Sands" Beach and Fisheries Museum
The beach harbours some intriguing "exhibits" one of which was the "Singing Sands" which seem to produce a singing sound as one walked on it. The sound is not fully explainable but is said to be attributed to a reaction of the quartz sand on the feet and on the other sand much like the rim of a glass when rubbed with a wet finger. The Fisheries Museum focused on the fishing industry and its evolvement during the ages. It had exhibits and artifacts as well as video demonstrations concerning P.E.I.'s fishing lifeline.
With that, Paul Knox took us back home to the Platter House where we would spend one more night and then be off to Ontario.
We did have some surprise visits and both were welcome. Ken Mill popped in and while he could not imbibe as he was on duty (on call with the Coast Guard) he did have a coffee and a bite to eat with us. We also had a visit from Melvin Ford who was taking care of Platter House. Nice way to say good-bye.
End Of Day Seven

September 20th Day Six: More Winery Visits and Deep Sea Fishing

2011-09-27T09:47:00.000-07:00

Lovely Morning
In Italy I would wake up and marvel at the view from the top of Castelrotto, a high hill overlooking the valleys that make up Valpolicella. I have stayed in lovely Umbria where mornings sounded with the enchanting calls of song birds and a view that would speed up any heart. I have seen the mountain hills of Portugal's Douro region and the splendor of Styria in Austria. Added to this list of hypnotic beauty was the mystical and peaceful view that I would wake up to at the Platter House in Souris. Prince Edward Island. Everyone on a trip takes something with them wherever they go. For me it was this memory of mornings----and evenings at Platter House.
Hemingway had his Loire Valley in France....... I had my Platter House. Energized after a few minutes of meditation overlooking the dock and the water, I went into the building and soon Roy and I were off to our first visit.
Percy Hill, Montegue
The name Montegue is derived from the Montegue River which, in turn inherited from George Brudenell (later Montegu after 1st Duke of Montegu). The area has a claim to fame for being the first to have both a Wendy's and Tim Horton's cohabit in the same location. Apparently, the executives of both enterprises met and immediately liked each other and the rest is history. Percy Hill is the name of a cottage that is rented out to various individuals for private use. It lies atop a gorgeous hill with a view that rivals many resorts. The 3000 square foot cottage came with all amenities such as closeness to recreational facilities, view, Internet, television, 1.5 baths, four bedrooms and much more. I was very impressed at the location and the building but that was not why I was up there for. I was up there to see a new little vineyard just planted this year.
To my astonishment, the vines looked over one year old already and in top notch health. The vineyard was one of hybrid varieties which would do very well with the southern slope and excellent spacing. Apparently, a retired person was coming in on a regular basis and keeping the vines spotless. In addition a five foot brick wall that stretched about sixty feet along the width of the vineyard acted as a barrier for winter months.
I had brought a Sauvignon Blanc vine with me just to try out. The vine from Ontario had a full root system and was planted right next to the wall which also served to collect heat and keep it during cool evenings. With the heavy snowfall that PEI winters get and with the warmer weather (though this year was abysmal) that the changing climate seems to be bringing, it may survive if given tender loving care.
Rossignol Vineyard
Soon we were off and away from Percy Hill and were off to Rossignol Vineyard in an area called Little Sands just South West of Murray River. The vineyard overlooks the Northumberland Strait and the combination of vineyard and water makes a great looking view. We met John Rossignol at the front of his building and he showed us his vineyards of Lucy Kuhlman, Marechal Foch, Seyval Blanc, Minnesota 78, Valient (which suffered a bit from salt spray and will be replaced) and Muscat grapes.
The wine boutique also served to show some excellent artwork as well as "knacks" that one could buy and take home. Sculptures out front depicted various forms of wine enjoyment and a Pagoda in the vineyard seemed a very relaxing place to "escape into one's own thoughts".
We tasted John's wines and found all his blends, varietals and fruit wines delicious.
As I looked upon what John had accomplished, I thought to myself that it must have been both courageous and very hard/risky to be first. There were those probably with too eager a finger to point and say "see we knew you couldn't do it" or the others would come after and say "we don't like your stuff---why bother!" John probably heard it all but kept on going. Congratulations to a true pioneer who had the guts and fortitude to move ahead and keeps on going. Nice job! Nice Winery! Great Guy!
Lunch At Brehault's
We dropped in at Brehault's Restaurant and ordered some bites to eat. Food was good and the coffee was great. We then went over to visit a Bed and Breakfast called My Father's House which I had included in my book "Rendezvous For Dinner" in 2006. Unfortunately, Joe its proprietor was not there and did not return while we were in Murray Harbour so I missed him. I did talk to his wife however and I relayed a message to him.
Newman Estate Winery
Michael Newman is only 30 years old but his vineyard and ten acre winery in Murray River was full of activity. Mike was busy working on his vineyard, bottling his blueberry wine, building his almost 3000 square foot home/boutique/winery and if that was not enough, making plans for future expansion. The man was on a mission and I was so surprised that he was not overwhelmed. His lovely girlfriend Christie along with Mike's twin brother, Rob, were there to lend a hand. Rob was invaluable to Mike in his work around the winery and Christie was excellent as a host.
On the ten acre plot which is reputed to have the warmest temps in PEI, he grows Marechal Foch, Lucy Kuhlman with plans for Vidal and Seyval Blanc. At the time of the visit he was bottling his blueberry wine. Each bottle was hand labeled and painted. The wine was not the cloying blueberry that many make but a medium dry, medium to full bodied wine reminiscent of Merlot with nice berry and chocolate. It was a good wine and with that experience I could hardly wait for a future tasting of his grape wines. His vines were healthy though needed to be tied and pruned somewhat but his strength is time itself and he is young with good friends to help.
The young man was full of dreams and positive energy and what is important, he was shopping for ideas and seriously listening. Older than his years dictated, he definitely was a man with a mission.
We tasted his wine with some hor d'oeuvres and it went well with cheese, oysters and other combinations. We were given a tour of his winery and though spartan, it was in excellent condition. My only observation is that Michael was doing so many things at one time that he may in fact at some point become overwhelmed. Somehow, I was also sure that he probably had the resources to handle it and handle it well. Job well done Michael!
With Newman Estate Winery ended our visit to the wineries for that day but we had something truly special coming up and that was a visit and tour with Tranquility Cove Adventures.
Tranquility Cove Adventures
The minute we drove into Tranquility Cove I knew that this was going to be fun when I met Perry Gotell who was the "skipper" of the tiny ship. His mate Lucas was a mighty sailing man and I liked him too. We all set sail on a deep sea fishing tour----a three hour tour! But here is where the comparison to Gilligan's Island ends. The going did not get rough and the tiny ship did not get lost. A fearless crew they were but we were never in need of help 'cause the water was as smooth as glass and the weather was just fine.
We went out about five miles or so although that was just a guess. I was allowed to take the boat controls and must admit, it was fun. The depth indicator to my right was telling me the depth of the water and a gauge on the same side indicated life such as schools of fish at various depths.
The boat had anything and everything to make us comfortable: food, fruit and soft drinks. On the way we made several stops at points of interest: One was to a Rock Crab trap. Another was to a Mussel sock where live mussels were suspended on mesh like sleeves called "Socks". These socks were anchored to the bottom and gave the mussels a place to grow. The mussels were removed by a brush and the sleeves were reused. We then went to a Lobster Trap but the surprise was on us since the lobsters had broken out of the cage which showed signs of deterioration. I couldn't help feel a bit happy for the lobsters since the alternative could have been a cooking pot and a quick change of colour to Red Lobster.
We kept on heading out past the outer point. The Skipper finally stopped the boat and gave us fishing rods. We were fishing for Makerel! Me, I never had the patience to fish and much of the time, when I did go, I would last maybe half an hour at best. Roy on the other hand loved the whole idea of fishing and took to this like a ----well-----fish does to water!! The first catch was made by Skipper, followed by Lucas and Roy. The pattern remained until I exchanged ends with the Skipper. I then started catching a few but not many. I gave in and called it a fishing day after about an hour or so. Roy on the other hand was the last one to put down the rod.
The funniest thing that happened was while we were fishing and the Skipper was catching some nice sized fish. Every so often a small one would come in and be thrown back by Lucas. The Skipper caught several small ones in a row and then on huge sucker of a fish. Lucas was talking to Roy as the big fish was caught by Skipper. Lucas proceeded to unhook the monster and without realzing what he was doing-----he threw the fish back in!!!! Skipper went into a frenzy and jokingly saying, "Hey boy, what the %#@$ are you doing. You want your pink slip do yah! This was all in fun but I am sure he did not and will not let Lucas forget this for a long time to come.
The trip was a great one and on our way back we roasted some Mackerel on the ship's barbecue which was attached on the side. The fish were great but it was then that I wished I had a bottle of good Chardonnay, Seyval Blanc or L'Acadie Blanc on hand!
Tranquility Cove Adventures had other packages such as "The Cork Adventure" where by landlubbers can see what the life of a Lobster Fisherman's helper (Cork) does from early morn' until about Noonish. "The Highliner Adventure" is similar to the Cork but it includes all you can eat lobster---------"Have ya' ever been to see Billy?"
"The Giant Bar Clam Dig Adventure" is for those who like to visit private deserted islands and swim/snorkel/hunt for clams which are collected and then steamed. Finally for those who love Eagles there is the "Bald Eagle Adventure" where sightings are guaranteed.
The way back was as much fun as going out but the thing I will remember the most is Roy's face as he caught those fish and the Skipper's face when Lucas threw the "Big One" back. As for the experience-----I actually steered the ship for a very long and enjoyable time!!!
By the time we said our good byes to Perry and Lucas, the gravol that I really did not need to take started to take effect (I took three) and shades of the "I Love Lucy" episode on the ferry, I was going down for the count fast. The night was not a long one and the bed was very, very welcoming.
End Of Day Six

September 19th Day Five: Poritz and Matos Winery Visits and Rocky Shore Pemium Seafood

2011-09-26T09:52:00.000-07:00

Trip To Historic Clyde River: The Poritz Vineyards
Sydney Poritz was a likable fellow. When Tara, Roy and I drove into his home/vineyard we did not anticipate setting our feet on such hallowed and historical ground. The house he lived in went back some 200 years plus to 1810 and, until 1989 when Sidney purchased the house. Part of the original farm is still owned by the great granddaughter, Doreen Pound still lives with her spouse.
Such history! So much must have happened and so much experienced during those years.
Sydney lived in the house for twenty two years and then about four or five years ago decided to plant a vineyard.
His land sloped down towards the south onto the river and is planted with newer vines on the southern end and progressing to older vines as one moves back and towards the west of the house.
I mentioned that the whole setting reminded me of the Blomidon Winery in Nova Scotia's Annapolis Valley area. The only difference was that the land at Blomidon sloped into salt water where as the influence at the Poritz estate was fresh. The scene otherwise is much the same though the Blomidon vines were much more progressed and older.
The grape varieties raised were Marechal Foch, Marquette, Frontenac, L'Acadie Blanc and Joffre vines.
The one thing that amazed me was that this man was basically doing the work himself and this included his netting which is a tough job to begin with. For a young guy this would be a chore but this man Sydney Portitz was 73 years old. All I could say was God bless him. His enthusiasm, humility and genuineness was inspiring and refreshing to say the least.
Having finished with the Poritz Vineyards we went to visit a completely different winery that was taking significant risks and accepting new challenges.
Matos Winery
In 2007 Jamie and Heather Matos bought 50 acres of land in St. Catherine's (P.E.I.) to plant with vinfera vines bought from Burgundy France. Prior to that Jamie had run a 'Brew Your Own' business and did it well for 20 years. He decided to follow a dream and looked for places to plant a vineyard. He settled on Prince Edward Island and now has vinifera vines growing----some 16,000 of them. He says that his soil is loaded with the best nutrients and that he cares for the vines with TLC (Tender Loving Care) giving them what they need to survive. The Gamay, Chardonnay and Rose. Apart from the Chardonnay being a bit light, the wines were quite palatable. One suggestion I had was to allow the Chardonnay to gain some complexity and reduce acidity by leaving the wine on its lees for a period. Just a suggestion! I am sure that Jamie and Heather know what they want.
The equipment was first class and top of the line. His vines seemed healthy and he used some natural and artificial controls for weeds etc. Jamie stated he had no real insect problems.
Vinifera in Prince Edward Island seemed a risky proposition but I have been proved wrong before and will be very happy to learn that the Matos Winery has had a string of successful vintages. Only time, hard work and good weather will tell the story.
After the winery we headed up to Victoria By The Sea and to the Landmark Cafe. This place used to be a Grocery Store called Craig's Grocery but was turned into a restaurant. The atmosphere had a tinge of the middle-east with some ethnic dishes and music. I had a delicious soup and meat pie. Soon it was time to get on the road and go to the Rocky Shore Premium Seafood company which was also known as the Tong & Shuck.
Here Ted Boutiller showed us how to shuck oysters. i am afraid that I was not that good but Roy seemed a natural. Tara did well also. I sat in the corner waiting for my dunce cap but Erskine Lewis called us out to go on an oyster hunt. Actually, he took us to the oyster beds were and you could see them on the bottom when the boat we were in went over the beds.
They use a natural method of cultivation whereby dime size shells or "Seeds" are placed in the beds which have constant exposure to the tides which results in big, cup shaped shells. These shells remain on the bottom for about three to five years and then they are harvested. Because of the way they are naturally treated, such oysters can withstand being out of water for a period of up to three weeks. In fridges, they tend to hibernate. This means good quality for the consumer.
Collection from the boat was by rake like "Tongs" which look like two rakes facing each other. These tongs are light and open and close via hand/arm manipulation. They "grab" at the oyster bed entrapping groups of oysters from the bottom and are pulled up via the handle of the now closed tong. They are then released into a container and sorted. It was interesting to see that young oysters or seeds can attach themselves to anything that will support them such as mussel shells, rocks or even other oysters.
With oysters now picked, we headed back to land and back to the car. It certainly was interesting and fun. Most of all I enjoyed tasting the fresh oysters. We then drove back to our abode of the week and relaxed with our paperwork.
END OF DAY FIVE

September 18th Day Four: A Delicious Appleicious And A Drive Up The North Cape!

2011-09-26T03:51:00.001-07:00

Some Facts About Apples

I never knew that apples were not native to North America. In fact they are an import from the Middle East. The fruit has a history of some 5o0o years and was known in places such as Ancient Greece. Normans brought the apple with them to the British Isles. The French also were responsible for bringing the fruit to Canada in the 17th Century. The rest as they say is history.

Apples have been part of PEI's history for over 150 years. Presently there are seven apple orchards in PEI growing over 40 varieties of apples.

On To Appleicious

Our drive that morning was going to be a long one---about 2 to 3 hours and would take us from Souris on the East Coast of PEI to Arlington on the West Coast. Since our scheduled time was to be around 11:45 AM we needed to hustle and were off on the road by 8:30 AM. The drive was a lovely one and of course took us through Charlottetown. We also made our way through the City of Summerside, Wellington, Richmond and on to Arlington. Though never lost, we did have to stop and get directions to make sure we were on the correct route.

Appleicious

Appleicious is part of the PEI Fall Flavours Festival, a month long culinary celebration which highlighted authentic island tastes and traditions in various communities throughout PEI. The celebrations included guest chefs, culinary tastings and competitions, games, songs and other attractions for both young and old.

Appleicious was held at Arlington Apple Orchards owned by Barry and Carol Balsom. On the property are grown some 31 types of apples plus seven types of plums and four types of pears.

There was some 35 acres with fruit trees close to the protective waters of Malpeque Bay.

The land which covers over 70 Acres has been in family for over 200 years and had gone through various incarnations from wood servicing and ship building.

Fun activities range from full blown events such as Appleicious and The Annual Shriner's Scarecrow Festival to Hay Rides and Farm Days when people come to look around and have fun.

Such things as Scarecrow making contests, pie eating, balloon animal making, face painting and

just plain old sausage and food cooking/tasting takes place. A portion of every thing sold goes to

a charity.

Open every day of the week from September to October and with apples available at various markets in Miscouche (Monahan Street) and Charlottetown (Ellen's Creek Plaza) from August to December. patrons can enjoy their fresh apples on a constant basis.

Guest Celebrities

Guest Celebrities included Chef Lynne Crawford known for her hosting of "Pitchin' In & Restaurant Makeover"for Food Network Canada and "Iron Chef Competition", Chef Crawford is always her humorous and gracious self. She has attracted much attention for her new restaurant "Ruby Watchco" and is the only female to have been crowned with the "Executive Chef" position at the Four Seasons in New York City.

Chef Crawford was a dream of a person and exhibited her gracious manner and humour in an incident when I was interviewing local Durham personality (and Appleicious Moderator) Christian Pritchard.

Coming over to the interview area, she asked to "shoot" the scene. We obliged and Roy gave her some points about the workings of the camera----not that she didn't know! She "shot" us and then turned the camera onto herself. It was fun and of course she graciously spent time with locals who had their pictures take with her. We couldn't resist either!!!!!

Christian and I who have known each other for some time now did a great "serious" interview about what was happening. He flew down every week of the "Fall Favours" month long celebrations and moderated/introduced for such celebs as Chef Curtis Stone, Lynne Crawford, Corbin Thomaszeski, Mark Mckwan and Thomas Moore.

Lennie Gallant a native of Rustico PEI and well recognized as a great songwriter was also on hand with his band. Mr. Gallant had nine albums and many awards including JUNO and East Coast Music Award nominations to his credit. Well known internationally, he had a great welcome at the event.

Also at the event Roy and I heard an opening series of songs by song writer/singer Norman Bowser who was excellent in both word and music. We got his permission to record him on the series.

The event went very well with other interview such as: Chef Jeff McCourt and his assistant Carolyn who gave us a great "Pork Belly" hors oeuvres and caterers "Two Friends Catering" with their delicious mussels and apple pie. The event, cooking, food, entertainment and all that went with it was fun. The only drawback to the whole event was the sneaky and insidious mosquitoes that didn't even have the courtesy of letting you know that they were going to land on your head and bite until you had been bitten. I got a couple but some got away!!!

With the event under our belt we decided to leave and make our way down the North Cape Coastal Drive which offered a unique and picturesque scenery and secluded beaches.

We also took pictures such as the bridge from PEI to Nova Scotia, French Cemetery and various

other landmarks.

We got back to Souris and decided to do some scenic "takes" of the area. First we went to the lighthouse and did a segment on it including mentioning the trawler heading out to catch herring. The lighthouse, a tall (14.3 metres) tapered, red and white building constructed of wood was built in 1880 and preceded the incorporation of Souris (1910). The lighthouse has been the symbol of the area ever since. From its top lookout that people can climb, one could see the Cape Breton Highlands on a clear day.

With the segments done and the day wearing on, we went back to the Platter House and spent a delightful supper and relaxing evening preparing for the next day.

End Of Day Four

September 17, Day Three: Myriad View Artisan Distillery, Cheese Ladies Gouda Cheese, Blue Mussel Cafe, Lucy Maud Montgomery, New Glasgow Lobster

2011-09-22T07:25:00.000-07:00

Platter House Morning

Mornings at Platter House Retreat are something that one either dreams about or sees in the movies. The morning was silent and still on the large deck that surrounded the house. A wisp of wind would brush against my face ever so gently as I looked out across the little bay that separated the house from Souris and the causeway.

A Great Blue Heron waded in the shallow water as it looked for small fish and other food while on the dock Cormorants landed and took off much like at a city airport. Two Sandpipers tagged along with each other as they searched for their share of the goods and on the red sand that lined separated the beach from the water two Ravens lurched their ugly heads looking for any scraps.

In the air gulls of all types glided as if in an air demonstration just for me. Mornings at Platter House-----just like the evenings----were something very special and I had to drag myself away from the view as Roy prepared breakfast.

Breakfast in my tummy and with Roy getting the car ready, I made my way down the stairs of the two story Platter House and got into the car. Our first destination: Myriad View Distillery.

Myriad View Artisan Distillery Inc.
Driving from Platter House in Souris to Myriad View took only about ten minutes. Ironically the distillery was very easy to miss---not because it was tiny or hidden but because it had an enchanting and lovely view as a rival. One could get overtaken by Myriad View----a seductive scene overlooking the seashore and all it offered that the other side where the distillery was located got missed.
We did not get caught up in all this drama however and spotted the vineyard stretching down to the road and drove up the long roadway to the distillery boutique.

Six foot four inch Ken Mill was a very friendly, gregarious fellow. His enthusiasm was infectious and his sincerity unquestionable. We met Ken outside his distillery and he quickly went into a how he got started.
It seems that islanders have made distilled products or "Moonshine" on Prince Edward Island throughout most of its history. Ken was encouraged by his peers to make it on a legal basis and he applied for his license. He ordered a copper still which was held up at customs in Halifax until he could prove he actually had a license. He stated that superstitions run high in P.E.I. concerning making your own "Shine" for a wedding in your family. The best way you can tell who makes the best"Shine" is to see who people go to to make their wedding spirits since they did not want to take a chance of making a bad batch and ruining the event. It seems that Ken certainly must have been asked quite a bit since his "stuff" is so smooth.
The term "Moonshine" refers to the smuggling of illegally made liquor under the cover of darkness or under the illumination of the moonlight, hence "Moonshine". This happened a great deal when Prohibition was the day. Ideas of Al Capone types doing this in the 1920's and '30's came to mind but that was quashed because apparently Prince Edward Island was under it until 1948----longer than any other province.
Ken gave us a tour of the building and explained the spirit making process. While it seemed very straightforward, I imagined that there was more skill and talent that went into the business or else everyone would be into it.
Ken makes several products for sale: Strait Gin---made with triple distilled grain Vodka and distilled a fourth time with carefully wrapped herbs. Strait Lightening----made with double distilled sugar cane and high quality molasses--the end product ended up with a 75 proof for purchase. Strait Rum------made from cane sugar and molasses, distilled and available in two strengths----40 percent or 100 proof (57.1%) . Strait Shine----made with an alcohol level of 50 percent.
The other life for Ken is that he is a part of the Coast Guard which protects Canada out at sea! He is part of that all important group of people who continually protect and often put their lives on the line to enforce the law and protect those in need. Ken was to become a good friend and Roy and I felt privileged to meet this gentleman.
Blue Mussel Cafe
Roy, Tara and I then went for lunch at the Blue Mussel Cafe in Cornwall. I enjoyed the Smoked Salmon on a Bagel with the Seafood Chowder while Roy had Steamed Mussels and Tara had the Chowder and Quiche. The food was good as was the service from a hostess by the name of Gail.
Our tummies settled and fed, we made our way to Jan Holmes Vineyard located in Kingston. Jan with her husband Allan had an exceptional cattle/beef /sheep business but she also wanted to try her hand at raising vines. With experience at Grand Pre Vineyard and a degree in Plant Sciences from Nova Scotia Agricultural University she planted and keeps up a small vineyard with hardy hybrid vines. Her first vintage was in late September of 2009 and though this year was a tough one weather wise her hopes are to make fine wine from such vines as L'Acadie Blanc in the future. Her vines looked healthy and I was sure that with further good weather, her vineyard will flourish. Strictly organic! I am sure with all the sheep and cattle fertilizer will not be a problem.
Lucy Maud Montgomery
After lunch we were off to Cavendish to the house where famed Anne Of Green Gables author, Lucy Maud Montgomery was raised after the death of her mother from Tuberculosis. She was born in nearby Clifton in 1874 but at the age of 21 months was given to her grandparents by her father who moved to Saskatchewan. She had a lonely childhood but endured to achieve a teaching certificate. She achieved further university training in Literature at Dalhousie in Halifax Nova Scotia.
She later moved to Ontario, settled in Uxbridge but did move to several other areas including the Halton Hills and Swansea (Toronto). Lucy Maud Montgomery died in Toronto in 1942 at the age of 67. Her body was buried in Cavendish Cemetery.
She published some 500 stories and 20 books and became famous the world over for the story of a orphan child who became a teacher and a writer.
Cavendish
We visited her Cavendish home and then went off to the cemetery to find Montgomery's grave.
Her burial plot was simple by design with a chain barrier keeping idle curiosity seekers away. Buried at the same plot was her husband. We did several photo and televised scenes for the series and then moved to other areas of the cemetery. Also buried at the cemetery were her mother and grandparents.
Anne Of Green Gables House
After the grave we spent time filming at the representative house and barn. The Green Gable House/Farm operated by Parks Canada was located in Cavendish. A great public attraction, this home is the one Anne was thinking of when she wrote the famous book. It actually belonged to her cousins, David and Margaret MacNeil but ironically, was not used for the feature movie because its popularity made it impossible to film there. Instead, two separately owned houses located in Southern Ontario sufficed----Ah! The wonder of television!!
Filming there was great fun and touring the site with Tara and Roy was a special event since the connecting of such a historic masterpiece of both a tourist and literary concern and the world of wine was the concept I had in mind when I started this Trek in 2006 when I visited Fess Parker (Davy Crockett/Daniel Boone star) at his winery and filmed "The New Wine Frontier" series.
Lobster A Go-Go!!!
We made our way to New Glasgow, a tiny village located in Queen's County amongst some picturesque scenery of hills and with the River Clyde in the background. Originally supposed to be a fundraiser back in 1958 with a building that was transported from another community, the fundraiser started to take off---first once per week in 1963 to seven days a week in 1970 to a huge following that has kept them busy enough to run it as a business rather than a fundraiser.
In 1980 the remaining four partners took over the business and in 2008 after much expansion and many pounds of lobster later, the business celebrated its 50th year in business.
Sterling MacRae was as nice a person as you would want to meet. It was obvious that he loved his work and still, at almost 80 years of age, enthusiasm for life and his business was infectious. Sterling took us for a grand tour of the establishment which was operated by people from the community as well as managed by family members. The one thing I noticed was that they all had smiles and working like a well oiled machine but in this case the machine knew that it liked its job.
The customers had smiles also but it was not work that they were smiling about but the great food. You name it, there was all you can eat (delicious) chowder, soup, desserts, drinks and of course there was the main course of either lobster, salmon, chicken, ham or scallops. Everything was being done to perfection and the home made rolls were a delicious meal in themselves.
It was great looking at the process that went into obtaining the products and following them through the cooking and finally serving. As I said, the customers really seemed to be enjoying it.
After dinner, we were entertained by a young man named Jonathan Horrocks, whose piano talent was beyond his years and it seemed that this person was destined to develop into a celebrity some day.
We also met the Mayor of Summerside, Basil Stewart, whose distinguished career would be legend in most communities. Summerside was a community a couple of hours away and his very attractive family seemed to be enjoying the evening. It was an honour to meet him and in general----- it was a great day!
Then it was time to go back to Platter House and prepare for the next day.
End of Day Three

September 16th Day Two: Travelling Through Charlottetown!!

2011-09-19T16:58:00.000-07:00

Hurricane Alley
The night was peaceful but the wind she howled and the rain it fell in torrents! The day began cloudy and rainy as the Hurricane that was heading towards Newfoundland gave a swipe at the island. We were right on the shore so we felt more of the effects. Morning was peaceful enough and Roy and I prepared to meet Tara Jackson.
Charlottetown
Charlottetown was a lovely little city with a plethora 0f unique and older buildings depicting the architecture of a gone by era. The city seemed a monument to the history of Prince Edward Island and Canada and it seemed very apropos that the Canadian story began here.
The Confederation Centre Of The Arts
Our first stop was at the Confederation Centre Of The Arts which was built in 1964. It of course was a tribute to the "Founding Fathers Of Confederation" but it also was a tribute to all that is cultural, intelligent and precious to Canadian ideals, social endeavours and the human saga!
The "Centre" was erected on the location where the old Charlottetown Market was and consisted of several lovely theatres, art gallery, Mavor's restaurant and a gift shop.
A superb courtyard, in the middle of the building housed a large Magnolia tree and two Hawthorne trees. Not far, near the gift shop stood a complete copy of the "Anne of Green Gables" house made entirely from sugar and donated by a fan club in Japan.
Art Gallery
The exhibits at this gallery were amazing and done in great themes. The one thing that really caught my interest was a huge painting done in three parts and exhibited midway to the second floor at the steps leading to the Art Gallery. The painting done by Native artist Jane Ash Poitras, is powerful, inspiring and emotional. It tells the story of Native People in Canada in art form.

Jane Ash Poitras was raised by an adoptive mother after her mother passed. She attended university obtaining a BSC degree and later obtained degrees in fine arts. A talented artist, she reconnected with her native culture and began painting symbolic art such as the one that I was looking at.

The piece that affected me so was or seemed to be a depiction of historic events combining both native and non native events and the effect that they had on both. To say that this magnificent piece was an important work to all Canadians is not doing it justice. It was and is a piece that the whole world and human society in general can learn from----very powerful and moving!

However, the Art Gallery at the Centre had more than native art. There were exhibits from famous Canadian Artists such as Robert Harris known best for his painting "Fathers of Confederation" but his other works such as "Local Heroes" and "The Studio Boy's Private View" have impact on a part of Canadiana gone by---but in many cases a part of human emotion and interaction that is common to all us now. Other art in this exhibit included self portaits by native and non native artists, art depicting community life in northern communities and photographs of such.

The above art was part of a thematic presentation called "Depictions" which looked at Canadian artwork from various artists linked in a common thread of the diversity yet commonality of all peoples within this great country. It showed that the representation of ideas of/about culture had many forms of expressions but always reflected towards one very human goal or attribute.

Throughout the Confederation Centre included many abstract items such as a question to "what is or what is not art?!" Example: A ceramic engine of a vehicle in an exhibition called "Rural Readymade". Could everyday objects have a place in the world of art? Could they be classed as artistic? My take on this was that art is in the eye of the beholder. I have seen many things that are of everyday use which I could call artistic. For me the arrangement of produce in a grocery store in many cases was a work of art. Could a comb, a pop bottle or similar piece be "art".

I can only draw your attention to the many museum pieces of everyday life exhibited world wide and their classification of "ancient art" to help answer the question.

Other interesting exhibits featured at the Centre Gallery were "Guestworks" by Aganetha Dyck and featured a live beehive and works of art featuring bees.

What did all this have to do with wine and what "Two In A Vineyard" was filming within PEI or anywhere for that matter. The expression of wine as art in both the abstract sense and the organoleptic sense has been part of reason for this series from day one. At the Confederation Centre Of The Arts relationships and themes have shown the importance of art as part of contemporary everyday life. Wine, with its far reaching effects on civilization from the agricultural aspects in the vineyard to the blending of grapes by the winemaker to the depiction of the wine in a bottle and finally to the enjoyment of wine by the uses has been and will always be a form of art. Thus the comparison and inclusion of all the above in the series.

The Confederation Centre For The Arts had more than just the Art Gallery. Theatre in the form of plays and education in acting, singing, dancing, sculpting is dedicated to the next generation through camps and school programs. There are performance areas in several theatres such as the Homburg Theatre, The Mack, Studio One and Two and the Aphitheatre with many theatrical and musical events.

After our visit to "Confederation Centre For The Arts" we went to the "Shellfish Festival" where famous chef Curtis Stone was giving a demonstration in cooking shellfish and shucking oysters. It was a fun time and one that was particularly enjoyed by the female sector of the audience both for the cooking and-----Curtis Stone. On hand to help out was Durham celebrity Christian Pritchard who is a chef in his own right and host of the popular Rogers television program "Daytime".

We then had lunch with Sebastian Manago and Jan Holmes of the Prince Edward Island Tourist

Board/Culinary Alliance at a restaurant called the "Gahan House" which was an 1880's home of John Gahan. We then visited "Province House" and took many pictures of the place where the "Fathers of Confederation" met in 1864 to hash out the Articles of Confederation. We saw the exact room and chairs that they used.

We also saw the area where the Legislative Assembly meet and where they sit. One interesting fact came out was that the ruling party was supposed to sit to the right of the speaker but in this case the ruling party traditionally sits to the left. Why? Because when they first met in 19th century, the stove was on the left hand side of the room and that is where heat was. Winner's prerogative eh!!???

By the time we finished our tour of "Province House" we were off back to Platterhouse and made ready for the next day to come.
End Of Day Two

September 15th Day One: Hello Prince Edward Island!

2011-09-17T21:15:00.000-07:00

Leaving Pearson One More Time
It is no secret that I hate airports and being cooped up in a plane for any amount of time. Only a couple of weeks ago I had arrived from Quebec and now I was away with Roy on yet another adventure. This time it was to Prince Edward Island. Why PEI? Of course the show was called "Two In A Vineyard" so what does PEI have with wine or vine?
The fact is that grapes have been grown and wine has made in this area. However, as mentioned before, my concept of wine is more than the sum of wine's parts. Not a heck of a lot of wine has been made in PEI but if one takes a historical and geographical perspective, the fermenting of many products has been a part of the provinces history for many years and that fact includes wine in the mold.
Historical Perspective
Named after the Duke of Kent and Stratheam who was the father of Queen Victoria. PEI is the 104th largest island in the world. It is Canada's smallest province with a population of 143,000. The island consists of deposits first made by streams some 300 million years ago that deposited the silt, sand and gravel into the area. This was added to by glaciers in the Ice Age. When the glaciers disappeared the land rose to form the island.
The island usually had cold winters and moderate summers with lots of precipitation. Weather varied depending on the other weather patterns from other regions but was usually moderate.
The island was settled by Mi'Kmaq people and first "discovered" by Jacques Cartier.
The island was obtained by Britain from the French as part of the "Treaty of Paris" in 1763.
In 1798, the island's name received its name of Prince Edward Island(which was St. John's) to distinguish it from other places with the same name. In Mi'Kmaq the island is called "Abegweit" or "Epikwetk" meaning "land cradled in the waves."
The island is also known as the "Birthplace of Confederation" due to its hosting (1864) of the meeting that designed the "Articles of Confederation" and eventually led to the formation of Canada in 1867.
Arrival Charlottetown
The jet landed in Charlottetown airport around three thirty in the afternoon. Waiting for us was Tara Jackson. Soft spoken with smile that would charm the most grizzly of characters (moi) she introduced herself and went to get the car. The weather was warm----around 24 Centigrade and it was sunny-----a far cry from what we left in Ontario. However we were told that this wasn't typical weather for what was happening this summer in PEI. If fact, it was supposedly one of the coldest and wettest on record with average daily high temps barely making it into the upper teens.
By the time we left the airport grounds it was getting on to dinner time so we stopped off in Charlotteown to have a bite at a restaurant called "The Merchantman Pub" before we treked to our home for the next seven days----Platter House next to Souris Bay. We chose a great little restaurant in the downtown and then proceeded to our Platterhouse destination.
One Super Place To Shack Up!
We arrived at the Platter House located in Souris Bay. The South East part of Prince Edward Island is certainly full of lovely homes all stately in manner. Not far from the house is a magnificent Light House that is still functioning. The Platter House itself was huge! Five Bedrooms, a huge living area, an even larger dining area complete with a board table and chairs, many closets and laundry room, five bathrooms and a monstrous eat in kitchen-------just for the two of us!!! The house also had a wrap around balcony and was on a lovely red beach that faced Souris. I looked outside and the fog was rolling in----could this be a sign of things to come??
I sat out on the balcony and looked around me. Nature was everywhere. The clouds reddened by the setting Sun seemed to hang as if suspended and timeless. The reddened blue sky "back grounded" the feeling of quiet solice as sea birds: Gulls, cornets and ducks flew silently and effortless in the air---landing and taking off at will. One lone Heron hunted in the shore below me.
The Sun itself transformed Souris with all its buildings into a glowing Mediterranean port---aglow in the luminous light surrounding it. Shortly after the image was slowly replaced by the cool blue of a darkening sky and then---darkness.
Then it was Souris' turn to light up the shoreline with diamonds of light sparkling. The sky had its own sparklers shining down and decorating the night sky and the Light House spoke its warning to any on-coming ship. I lit up a cigarette as I do from time to time when I ponder the day and the events. A fog was rolling in from outside of the bay area. Could this be a sign of things to come??

September 9th Day Ten: In The Laurentians----Last Working Day In Quebec!

2011-09-16T15:14:00.000-07:00

The Beginning Of The Last Day!
I woke up early---too early but knew that this was the last day. Pierre who had stayed over was going with us but not staying over as he was to meet some other journalists later that evening. Pierre was the king of guy that you immediately developed a nice rapport with. He was humourous, flexible and organized. Pierre was also very sensitive to the needs of a film crew. He really appeared to be enjoying his work with us and of course we loved having him around.
We were soon off to our first visit of the day which was an interview and tour with Jean Pierre Belisle
Vignoble la Roche des Brises
We drove to the above winery and were met by Mr. Jean Pierre Belisle. He introduced himself and when I asked him of his occupation he retorted "Wait and try to guess! I will tell you later! But first, I will ask you what you think I am!"
That is how the relationship between JP as he asked me to call him and me started. I knew immediately that JP was no man's fool and his calm appearance hid a strong aggressiveness that was both competitive and yet methodically intelligent.
The man took us to his vineyards where he had been experimenting with a computerized weather/seasonal warning system which home base was in Austria. This system warns of temperature fluctuations and potential harms allowing vineyards to begin preparing for such things as frost. With wires 30. 60 and 90 centimetres above and below ground, temperatures can be closely monitored thus giving data to the main computer in Austria. Compared to the wind turbines that circulate the air above the vineyards, the twenty five thousand dollars for installation the wine turbines are far more expensive. There was only one occasion to use the computer so far but it worked and worked well.
JP took us and showed us his remarkable vineyards in top shape and full to the brim with clusters of grapes. "Look at these grapes!" he said with a passion that was infectious, "They prove that I am on the right track. Why spend a fortune when one only needs to use this technology!" I could not disagree. Results show! We then went to his wine boutique and tasting area to sample his wines. We started with his whites.
Fourigole: Made from Giesenheim 318 grapes nice apple and citrus with a refreshing acidity. Winner Gold "Coupe Des Nations".
Maribriand: Made from Marechal Foch and Lucy Kulhman. Nice red with strawberry/field berries. Integrated with nice acidity. Long finish. Gold medal winner.
Ste-Croix: Made from 100% Ste-Croix grapes. Toasted oak and cherry flavours with smoke and pepper spice. Gold cup winner.
Rosee du Matin: Made with Marechal Foch and Ste-Croix. Strawberry/Raspberry flavours with a touch of sweetness.
Derniere Danse: Made with Geisenheim 318 fortified with alcohol. A nice aperitif with appricot and peach flavours with secondary apple and pear. Gold Medal Winner.
Ete Indien: Made with Marechal Foch and Lucy Kulhman. A port style wine that is fortified with alcohol nutty and full of ripe dark and red fruit. Figs and chocolate. Gold Medal Winner.
Vignole Vents d'Ange
We went to visit our last winery called Vents d'Ange and owned by Andre Lauzon. Andre is an innovator as are many of the Quebec wineries. He believes in natural only and does organic farming. He also uses grapes not normally used in wine making such as the table grapes Montreal Blues.
In some of his wines he uses a blend of 70% Montreal Blues and 30% St. Croix. In another he makes a Rose of 100% Montreal Blues and yet in another he uses virtual unknowns Kay Gray and Prairie Star in a 50% blend. Yet in others he uses the 100% Kay Gray---such as in his Ice wine.
Andre had a long discussion with me over good coffee and explained that his passion is from the heart as compared to his pocket book. I wish him well.
A Meeting Of The Bees At Intermiel
Pierre Bessette took us to a Mead Winery in an impromptu venture. What resulted was an amazing experience with me interviewing a fully clothed Bee Keeper while I was still in short sleeves and light clothing. The company makes honey wine and even has a distillery to make liqueur type honey products. The result is a luscious drink that comes in a variety of taste levels.
The company also produces Royal Jelly, bees wax, Apiflore, natural honey and honey products.
The owners Christian, Eleonore and Viviane Macle are a family operation.
Look them up and if you have a chance---go there. www.intermiel.com
Adieu Quebec
With this ended our visit to Quebec. The next day we would be heading to the airport and fly from Pierre Elliott Trudeau to Toronto Pearson. I would certainly suggest that you visit and try a first hand visit to the wineries in these great wine regions. Some use grape varieties not known or should I say not used in Ontario or some other areas but a good wine is a good wine. In addition, the people, the scenery the diversity, the cuisine, the encounters, the fun and the relaxation as well as the history, the geography, the science and the culture all are part of one great province. Quebec.

September 8th Day Nine: Off To The Laurentians!!!!!!

2011-09-15T05:06:00.000-07:00

Good-bye Eastern Townships and Auberge & Spa!
Breakfast was good and as usual the staff quite helpful. We befriended Kim Whittier who always had great suggestions and in addition was very attractive---intelligent, charming and good looking----some guy is very lucky!!! This made our stay much more pleasant but it made it also very difficult to say good-bye!
The two and a half hour drive to the Laurentians took us through Montreal and then north. We did not have a problem getting there but one thing----our GPS drove us crazy! "Turn right in 800 Metres!" the female voice would say! "Turn Right!" It would come on again. "Turn Left, then right and then left! Turn now!!!" It usually was accurate but being told what to do by a machine on a continual basis did have its drawbacks.
We arrived at our first destination Aux Cassis D'Argenteuil early and were met by Paul Hebert. Paul was a very nice person who had great pride in his establishment. In 1995 he purchased 32 acres and planted it with various forms of grain on a rotating basis to give the land back some nutrients. His first planting of Black Currants took place in 2002 with disease resistant plants.
Black Currants
Black Currants are a very hardy type of plant indigenous to the the Northern Hemisphere. They have a great many health aspects such as having a very high vitamin C content plus many Omega 3 fatty acids. Their anti-oxidant level is also quite high. Being hardy, they grow quite well in the cold climate of Quebec.
We were invited in to taste some of the products and what we tasted was quite good. His first product was called "Ruby". The sweet wine was quite tasty and an excellent accompaniment to things such as pate, cheeses and foie gras. I was also under the feeling that it would go well with fruit such as figs etc. The "Rastel"reminded me of Port in a distant way and it should since it, like Port was a fortified wine where alcohol is added to stop fermentation. Again it was a nice wine with aged cheeses and chocolate. Again sweet fruit also was on the menu. "Creme de Cassis" was excellent also and a match for such things as ice cream, cake, waffles etc. It could also be matched with fruit and other drinks.
Other products such as Jelly, Chocolates and Gift Baskets.
At that time our guide and tourist representative, Pierre Bessette came to meet us. Looking very athletic the good looking fellow was charming and I knew that we would get along well during our stay. After our visit to the winery we went to town and ate lunch at a Thai Restaurant.
Then it was off to Vignoble Des Negondos where we met with Carol Desrochers, a very attractive winemaker/owner who although shy in appearing in front of the camera, did a great job talking about her wines. She did the interview in French and was articulate that it was no problem of understanding what she was talking about.
The winery was started in 1993 with her partner Mario Plante. The vineyard had about 10,000 vines in gravelly limestone rock soil. The winery was certified organic and produced a group of eight wines. Wines are made from Seyval Blanc, Chambaudiere, Cayuga, Geisenheim, Vidal, St. Croix, Marechal Foch, Frontenac, Marquette, Baco Noir, Dechaunac and a unique grape called Kay Gray which was developed by a grape breeder called Elmer Swenson in the 1980's. The plant is female and requires a pollen source. It is exceptionally hardy.
The wines from dry white to dry red were all superb but our favourites where The Rosois a rose wine that would go especially well with appetizers, salmon, cold cuts and pork loin, the Suroit which would go very well with red meat, spicy Italian and cheese and the the Chesnaie which I would like to try with game, duck and/or lamb. For a dessert the port type wine called Nirvana would go great with dark chocolate, figs or soft cheese such as Brie.
We interviewed Mario Plante who came in during the discussion and then we were on our way. Great people all round.
Pierre suggested that we try a garden exhibit called Angelica where Lucilia Albernaz met us for a tour. This non profit venture was the initiative of a group of 16 professionals who purchases 94 acres which blended a group of theme gardens: One was something that reminded me of an English Country Garden reminiscent of a walk in the country. This led into a Fairy Garden which allowed one to dream and go back to his/her childhood with ideas of Peter Pan and Tinkerbell----at least that was what I thought of. The Pavilion Observation deck was a rest place where one could listen to the music and/or sounds of children piped in or just look out on the garden items themselves. The Discovery Garden was full of shapes and other art.
Soon we were in the Bird Garden which had numerous birds attracted by the many berries planted especially to attract them. Another one was similar to some of the formal gardens seen in Versailles or Austria with the shaped bushes and lovely plants. The Grass and Rose Gardens followed and were pretty well self explanatory with their various varieties of superb items.
My favourite was the Zen Garden complete with waterfalls, ponds and statues of Buddha which served to recharge one's energy after a hard day at work. The final item on the tour was another English Garden dedicated to the young adults from Mirabel in 2009.
Other activities were the availability of flowers to be cut and taken home as well as Children's Garden, a new berry picking area, wedding planning and execution, corporate parties and much more.
While this place was not on our itinerary, it is a place that should be visited if you are in the area. Look them up at www.gerbesdangelica.com .

Gite La Capucine

This was our last hotel and place of rest until we were due to leave for Toronto. It was a Bed and Breakfast operated by Julie and Acide in an English style manor house at a little town called St-Placide. The place was clean and well decorated in period (19th Century) work and had spacious rooms with very comfortable beds. The reputation of the food is what brought the folks from all over to stay. Julie is a chef that worked with some of the best chefs in the area and her meals are to absolutely die for without question. You must make reservations for dinner but it would be more than worth it----take my personal guarantee.

We were in for a very interesting stay. Our hosts were the greatest.

End of Day Nine

September 7th, Day Eight---Last Day In The Eastern Townships----And A Full One!!!!

2011-09-14T05:11:00.000-07:00

Off To Sutton, Quebec!
We had a great breakfast at the Auberge & Spa West Brome, there is one thing I truly enjoyed about this place and that is the genuine & friendly manner of the staff from the desk clerk right to the chef/cook. Most of the places that we stayed at were exceptionally fine but the Auberge seemed to go beyond just being professional and pleasant. They were disarmingly charming and so very helpful in all that they did and what we required.
Le Rumeur Affamee
Kelly and Wayne Shanahan met us at the door of their gourmet store which was located in a former general store which itself was part of a historical building. They handled a wide range of products including 150 types of cheese---over half (including some from Abbaye de St. Benoit). In addition they served a variety of tempting bread (not that my stout belly needed it!) and special maple pie baked on site. In the summer they also served a famous Bilbouquet ice cream.
Kelly seemed to be a friendly but no nonsense individual who managed the store. Wayne seemed lay back but under that friendly exterior was the businessman who spearheaded Boston Pizza's successful venture in Quebec. He did what others failed to do by knowing his potential customers. Such things as his increasing the amount of wine labels from a mere 8 to 25 indicated that he was in sync with the traditional needs of his clientele. He furthered this by making sure that cheeses were incorporated into the menu. His success as Executive Vice President of Marketing for Boston Pizza was understanding his clientele. This obviously followed him to his present ownership of Le Rumeur Affamee with his wife, Kelly. Together they made a greater whole.
Roy filmed Kelly making cookies and I spoke to Wayne somewhat in awe of his accomplishments and that resonant voice of his. It was great meeting them but we soon had to be off to our next meeting.
Domaine de Bresse
Not far from Sutton on top of Draper Hill sits Domaine de Bresse. This winery and beef farm was not on our list to visit and indeed we basically just went and took a quick look see since we were under a time constraint but enough people mentioned them that they were worth inclusion in this blog. However, an informal visit is better than none. The place looks great and very well kept. To the best of my understanding, they have approximately 15,000 vines planted with St. Croix red hybrids and Vandal-Cliche white. Their cattle are totally naturally kept and meet the highest government standards of keeping.
The domaine has just made it to inclusion on the vine route of the area and now has rooms available for persons to stay. It seems like a great place to stay and my thanks to Kim at the Auberge & Spa and Kelly at the Le Rumeur Affamee for suggesting it.
Chapelle Ste-Agnes
Driving down the winding road to Chapelle Ste-Agnes, I did not suspect that I was going to come upon one of the most scenic as well as most interesting sites that I have ever seen. Picture this,
A small chapel designed in traditional field stone construction sitting amidst the splendour of the Green Mountains of Appalachia. From the Chapel, one can view high rolling hills full of trees that carpet them as far as the eye can see and then some more.
"Over there are the Green Mountains of Vermont!" said owner John Anthony as we looked above the eighteen or so terraces one atop of the other----each supported by stone walls and harbouring lovely vines. The almost three dimensional effect of us looking down at the terraces was only eclipsed by the three dimensional effect of us looking up from below. At the bottom of the terraced slopes were two ponds which had an effect on the temperature as did the stone walls which heated up during the day and released the heat at night. All this created a micro climate that extended the season enough for vines to ripen and develop the sugar they need.
It came to no surprise to me to learn that Christian Barthomeuf was involved initially with the vineyard's creation as the whole structure of the vineyard has his mark. The fact that no synthetic materials or artificial fertilizers and a totally organic method was used certainly was Christian Barthomeuf. It is no surprise to me that the sweet wines and ice wines made here are so very very good. The wines had been entered in many world wide highly reputed contests and came out on top.
The vines are cared for in a very special manner. Each vine is carefully pruned in a vertical manner and insulated once the harvest is done. Again there is the Barthomeuf approach.
One thing however, while there is certainly a touch of Christian B. in the vines and wines, the building is all Henrietta Anthony a former antique dealer who had the chapel built in 1993.
The Romanesque structure was built to last. Many antiques were used in its construction such as the Louis Fourteenth Doors main doors, 17th century stained glass windows. paving stones from Quebec City's founding in the 17th century.
Within the Chapel were antique religious artifacts from various countries in Europe. The cellars of Chapelle Ste-Agnes descended some twenty feet where the temperature and humidity was a constant. The cellar--though constructed in modern times---had an air of medieval times around it. It was multifaceted with different levels and tasting rooms as well as a press room gallery where the photographic history of the cellar project was kept.
I was so amazed at the whole "picture" that I forgot that there was wine to taste. One could get lost in semantics.
We tasted some very luscious wines that were prize winners in international competition. These wines made from Riesling, Geisenheim, Vidal and Gewurztraminer are some of the best sweet wines that I ever tasted. These wines were award winners in competitions such as the International Wine and Spirit Competition (IWSC) winning Silver and Bronze as well as Decanter World Wine Competition winning Bronze.
In addition they offer a wide range of other products such as gift sets, glasses, icewine chocolates, coaster as well gift certificates.
Time went by so fast at this location that we did not notice that we were over one hour late.
Cafes de Village
The cafes de village is a select group of cafes that offer local coffees, seasonal and local products and a relaxing charm. This is what is offered but if there ever was a stressful period in our whole trip, it was this one AND it was my fault!!!!
Here is what happened. After we left the Gourmet Shop in Sutton, I noticed a Cafe next door. It was a Cafe de Village. The street was rue Principale. I made an assumption (you know what "assume" means----something as ass of u and me!!!) that that was the place to go. I wondered why we had to go all the way back to Sutton. Did I check the itinerary---of course not!!!
Thinking that the cafe in Sutton was the actual place we had to be in, we drove back and looked for number 16 because the cafe I went to was 14. We drove up and down. Up and down the street to no avail until I decided to look at the itinerary which gave the real name and town.
Right street name and similar cafe de village but----no cigar. Our cafe was on the other side at a town called Frelighsburg.
We got to Les Sucreries de l'erable for lunch but neither the assistant nor the owner (who was not there). We had a delicious lunch and pie and then we were on our way. Considering that we did not spend much time at the cafe, we were now on time for our next visit.
Domaine Pinnacle
We arrived at Domaine Pinnacle about a half hour to forty five minutes late but it could have been worse. I apologized and after I ate a bit of crow, I met with Charles Crawford who owns it with his wife, Susan.
Charles had a vast amount of food in the form of cheeses, nuts, fruit and bread ready for our tasting. He also had a large amount of wine. We stepped to the bar for a food matching tasting. We tasted his Ice Cider which was made from a blend of different apples and made with no additions. I preferred it with goat or blue cheese. We moved on to his Sparkling Ice Cider which was he world's first sparkling ice cider. It struck me as a fine dessert wine or with figs etc.
The Signature Reserve Special Ice Cider, which had a warm caramel flavour as well as that of a baked apple went very well with a nutty fruit cake that was over one year old. The Reserve 1859 Domaine Pinnacle was a blend of ice cider and apple brandy. It also was excellent with pecan pie or fruit or nut cake dessert. The two following Maple products were also great. The Coureur des Bois Maple Cream. To make it Maple Syrup, fresh cream and grain alcohol/rum are used. The Coureur des Bois Maple Cider, also had a following and the wine came out with great integrity. It could accompany nuts. various cheeses and other sweet deserts. These are truly great dessert and aperitif wines and as a testament to how great they were thought to be, when I told my mentor and good friend---travel, food and wine writer Alex Eberspaecher about my Quebec adventures, the one winery in the Eastern Townships he asked about was----Domaine Pinnacle!
Charles also told us a bit of history behind the house next to the winery. It was built in 1859 and it was used in those days to keep an eye on Vermont and as time went on it was used to keep an eye on smugglers. The house has been kept in good shape.
One of the last things that Roy and I did was to take some closeup shots of the house.
Clos Saragnat
Christian Barthomeuf was mentioned previously as one who makes great wine and cider. He used to work totally organic and did not skimp on the organic utensils. When he bought the land which is on the southern edge of Mouth Pinnacle in the Appalachian Mountains and about one mile from the Vermont border. He and his partner Louise purchased the land that had lay fallow for some years----which was okay with him since he wanted the land in in its natural state so as to employ his own organic/bio dynamic techniques. Christian was well known to the area as a great winemaker. He started the first vineyard at Cote d'Ardoise in the early '80's and created the first ice cider. We have already mentioned his work at Chapelle Ste-Agnes. Barthomeuf was also once employed by Domaine Pinnacle. Christian is highly thought of in the community and seeing what he did and how he did it, I could understand. In order to be successful his way, one must be committed to a great deal of hard work.
Christian does not do anything half way. He uses his horses to spread their manure in the fields as well as in tilling the soil as in times of old. He insulates his vines in the winter and depends on nature to take care of his vines in the summer. I recall that he mentioned at least a dozen birds that he calls his helpers. They eat the insects that hurt his vines.
Christian's wines reflect this and we tasted some of his icewines which were quite special. He considers Clos Saragnat as a research facility for his vines and fruit based products. He hopes that he can leave his mark on Quebec wine making. I think that has already done that and more.
This visit marked an end to a very, very long day. On getting back to the Auberge, we were too tired to eat at the restaurant (although true to form in being considerate, the restaurant called to see if we were coming.) so we opted on purchasing some bread and cold cuts at the grocery store and had it later with some wine. I think it was a bottle of "Cep d'Argent'!
Then---it was bed and an early rise the next day.
End Of Day Eight!

September 6th, Day Seven: Eastern Townships One More Time

2011-09-13T11:15:00.000-07:00

One Great Scenic Spot!
The Eastern Townships of Quebec have already been described as reminiscent of Austria's southern province, Styria. The lovely green mountains and many lakes enable one's spirit to roam at will through the space of fresh air and imagination. That's what I felt looking out at the top of the high mountain hills. The night before I watched the retreating Sun fall behind the mountain's huge bulk. Now the Sun was shining on top of the mountain----its rays reflecting the multi-faceted colours of the huge fold.
Vinoble de La Bauge
We were on our way to Vinoble de La Bauge located in Brigham and not far from the Appalachian Mountains. Here time seem ed to stand still and visions of Ichabod Crane came to mind however it also occurred to me that I soon would be standing on the same spot that was occupied by the Champlain Sea and before that another ocean millions of years ago. "Stand Still" alright. Change is the only unchangeable truth.
The name La Bauge is taken from the original concept of what the winery was to be----a place where wild boars lived or their lair. Initially the winery was going to be a supplier of boar meat to the local people of Brigham and area. In 1987 grapes were planted. The vineyards and a growing menagerie of animals including the original Swedish boars was inherited by the son of Alcide and Ghislaine Naud, Simon, continued in their path. When we visited the winery Simon took us out to the vineyards which now had over 26,000 vines planted. The menagerie of exotic animals had also grown from just boar and cattle to include: Yak, Obelix,Llamas, Emus, Deer, Mountain Goats and Jamaican Goats, exotic cattle etc. He had also introduced experimental vines and made some very special wines. They take agro-tourism to a new level offering guests a chance to experience Nature by visiting these exhibit animals while enjoying a chance to experience the art of viticulture and winemaking.
Wines
Wines range from dry whites made from Seyval Blanc and dry reds made with blends of Chancellor, St. Croix, Sabrevois and Frontenac to sweet and semi sweet wines made from both single and blended wines. The fortified wines are also very excellent.
Vignoble Les Pervenches
We left La Bauge in Brigham and drove over to Les Pervenches in Farnham. This was a unique place in that many of its vines were of vinifera stock. Chardonnay and Zweigelt as well as French Hybrids: Seyval Blanc, Marechal Foch and Frontenac.
The vineyard is not huge but it is certified organic and bio dynamic. The owners, Veronique Hubin and Mark Marler purchased the property and business in 2000 though the property has been in production since 1991.
When we arrived, the netting was just being placed over the Zweigelt Vines to protect them from birds. Veronique and Mark met us and discussed their philosophy of wine in Quebec. They dismiss the idea that grapes of a vinifera calibre cannot grow in this region primarily because they know that good grapes require work and sacrifice as well as the fact that many areas in the Eastern Townships have micro climates that are conducive to the growth of good grapes. They believe that they have it at Pervenches.
Mark took us in to taste some of his wines and I must admit, his Chardonnay was magnificent and his red wine was not far behind. Mark and Veronique did not propound theories or talk a great deal but they just let their wines do the taking for them. The place may not be big but man this is a case where big things come in small packages.
L'Orpailleur
Vignoble del'Orpailleur was our next stop and if Pervenches was small, then l'Orpailleur was gigantic in comparison, This vineyard is one of the oldest in the Eastern Townships and Quebec. The name means gold referring to the prospecting for gold in the many rivers in the Eastern Towns. Dunham. where the winery is located. is a gorgeous area and was known as the centre of wine in Quebec.
We were shown around the large complex which had now over 100,000 vines planted consisting of Seyval Blanc, Seyval Noir, Vidal, De Chaunac, Marechal Foch, Frontenac, Geisenheim and New York Muscat.
The winery is a cornucopia of activities that range from the excellent restaurant and decor to the vast tasting boutique. guided tours, special catering events and the Economuseum which houses written, photographic and physical exhibits depicting the wine trade, wine making and the historical aspect of wine and l'Orpailleur. The name itself reflects a piece of history as it was a name given to the first wine from the first harvest in 1985 by Gilles Vigneault. The name means "Gold Gatherer"!
History
L'Orpailleur was one of the first wineries established in the first township (1845) of Lower Canada. Dunham became closely entwined with wine---being the first to have large vineyards growing in it and the first to win international awards. It is by far the largest winery.
The founders of the winery established ways of "hilling up" areas around the vines thus protecting them from the ravages of winter. They borrowed this technique from vintners in Northern Europe and the then Soviet Union. To many in Canada the method became known as the "Quebec Method" and has been used in new areas such as Ocala Winery in Port Perry and more recently in the region of Prince Edward County of Ontario. Other areas in Nova Scotia, New Brunswick and Prince Edward Island are familiar with this method which has inspired many to proceed with wine making in areas that would otherwise not be productive.
They have a lot to thank the founders of L'Orpailleur who had the conviction and intestinal fortitude to move ahead when others probably told them to stop.
The rest is of course history and l'Orpailleur is still going strong with its various wines ranging from dry white Seyval Blanc to a delicious Rose to an excellent dry Red blend. The other success story is of course Icewine which l'Orpailleur produces from Vidal grapes. It is a challenge being first! The challenge comes from the major risks taken both financially and physically as well as the challenge to maintain success once established with the inevitable competition from late comers. L'Orpailleur it seemed to us had not only met the challenge but seemed quite able to move forward in the future. After a delicious lunch served in the restaurant we moved on to the next winery.
Vignoble Domaine Cotes d'Ardoise
The oldest winery in Quebec is Vignoble Domaine Cotes d'Ardoise founded in 1980 with the first plantings in 1981 with Marechal Foch, Seyval Blanc and Pinot Noir. Further plantings followed with Chardonnay, Gamay, and more Pinot Noir. The winery was a trail blazer since when it was established there were no rules or regulations to cover the growing, marketing and selling of wine products in Quebec so technically it was illegal. However, common sense prevailed and at a meeting in 1984 a group of government officials showed great surprise at the quality of wine being made. The first licence was issued in 1985 and the first medals awarded to it in 1987.
Today the winery has some 30,000 vines planted on roughly 8 Hectares of land. It produces wines from Gamay Noir, Riesling, Foch de Chaunac, Chelois, Lucy Kullman, Seyval Blanc and Noir, Vidal and Aurore.
The wine products cover a range from Dry white and red to sweet dessert and Sacramental wine made by a Portuguese method of adding alcohol to the grape juice. An icewine is produced as well as a rose icewine made from blending the wines of red and white icewine.
The winery is reputed to have the oldest vines in Quebec with an age of 33 years.
Tour
We were taken on a tour of the facilities by Linda Barabe the Boutique Manager. Here we saw marvellous sculptures from various artists as well as amazing photographs. The art was displayed throughout a self guided tour path and was for sale---some of the objects costing in the thousands of dollars. Vignoble Domaine Cotes d'Ardoise is still trail blazing its path.
With that tour, Roy and I headed for Auberge & Spa West Brome. The hotel was welcome to us as it had spacious rooms, a fine balcony and superb accommodations.
We had a delicious steak dinner courtesy of the hotel and Quebec Tourism.
End of Day Seven

September 5th, Day Six: Visit To Local Wineries Of Eastern Townships

2011-09-11T18:01:00.000-07:00

Many Upscale Wineries
The Eastern Townships sports some 24 wineries which includes some of the best in Quebec. After a delicious breakfast at the Estrimont we were off to our first winery. The weather was an on and off rain but the cieling was a bright one thus enabling us to take some good footage.
Bleu Lavande
Our first visit was to Bleu Lavande, a Lavender grower perched atop an almost 1000 foot hill at a place called Fitch Bay. We were informed that this was largest Lavender farm in Canada and the second largest in North America with some 300,000 true lavender plants. Lavender products in the form of refined oils, plants, soaps, creams and perfumes were produced here. There were other venues also. One could have a massage in the fields, visit the interpretation centre for an explanation about what goes on in the growing and harvesting of lavender as well as the making of lavender products. Picnics, cooking classes and relaxing walks were all on the agenda.
Owner Pierre Pellerin originally became interested in this type of work due to his desire to produce and work in a healthful scenario. He obviously had some inside information.
Vignoble Cep d'Argent
Years ago, when I was writing my book "Rendezvous For Dinner" I picked a winery for inclusion in this book for three reasons. First of all, its then owner, Dennis Drouin, contacted me back when I inquired. Second, his two partners from Champagne intrigued me as to their experience and third of all, the description of his whole terroir looked ideal for wine. I was correct and my gut instinct once again proved right. Dennis was originally from Ontario and after much research, founded Cep d'Argent in a superb microclimate. The name actually means "Vine of Silver" referring to the grapevines and the silver glow that Lake Magog gives.
I wanted to visit "Cep" in person and was not disappointed at what I found----a vibrant winery with lovely grape varieties, excellent knowledgeable staff and exceptional surroundings. One major disappointment was that Denis was not there as he had retired some time ago and had sold the property to the two the two brothers. The two owners, Jean Paul and Francois Scieur put much work into the winery and made it into one of the best functioning wineries in Quebec and Canada.
This winery became a centre for Agro-Tourism as well as fine wine. There were many activities that involved everything from the usual weddings, to ice wine berry picking in winter to special events to entertainment with a theme such as a Minstrel playing his flute and making fine music. There are two large halls for dinners and other activities and if one loves scenery, there are strategically placed lookouts that span the vineyards and lake.
The winery produced an excellent Champagne style sparkling wine in the traditional method. It's reserve red wine "Reserve du Cep d'Argent" was excellent as were the superb whites and sweet wines. Jean Paul and Francois have capitalized on all the assets of this great winery and it will always remain my favourite----after all, we never forget our first love---do we?
Roy and I had lunch at "Cep" and then moved on to the next winery. I couldn't help going back for one more look at the talented Minstrel playing the flutes. "Cep" indeed is my first winery love in Quebec.
Vignoble Le Domaine les Brome
Important people often buy wineries but in this case it came in the form of the former head of the Bank of Canada. Leon Courville. An innovator as well as a businessman, Mr. Courville set out a team that produced interesting combinations for wine blends. Combinations such as the hybrid Geisenheim grape blended with Seyval and Chardonnay. Each variety vinified separately and then kept on the lees until the blending took place. The fact that Courville grows vinifera species such as Chardonnay, Riesling, Cabernet Franc and Pinot Noir shows enterprise and courage since these grapes would be difficult to grow and ripen in this kind of terroir. However, he has done it and done it well.
In addition to the above, Leon Courville has purchased a different type of storage and fermentation tank. They are square! This saves on space as well as heating requirements.
The old sugar original building has been refurbished as a winery and boutique. It retains it character while moving forward with the times. As we left the winery, I couldn't help but feel a bit of jealousy at the exceptional view that the his winery offered overlooking the 60,000 vines that lay before us. Leon Courville has done a magnificent job with his wines and I am sure will do so in the future.
Abbaye de St. Benoit-du-Lac
Religion and cheese may seem like an odd couple but at the picturesque Abbaye de St. Benoit
they go hand in hand. The Abby is a superbly built overlooking Lake Memphremagog. It pays tribute to the harmony of natural forms along with multicoloured bricks. Services here are held in Gregorian Chant.
Father Dominique Mimier met us and took us aback at his youth though his actual age would be around 70. He took us to the cheese making factory which was responsible for making some ten different types of cheese, cider and maple products. He also took us to the storing facilities which housed some of the blue cheese that was slowly being inoculated with the bacteria that makes it so and gives it its odd flavour.
All through this the rain kept on pouring as the skies opened up even more. We obtained a brief tour of the building before leaving. On our way out we passed many who were there in some form of pilgrimage. We also met a very young looking monk whose name was Patrick. The youngster was all smiles and could speak quite good English. He mentioned that he has spent a couple of years in Toronto but felt he was drawn to the priesthood. This youngster that looked around sixteen or seventeen was actually thirty years old soon to be thirty-one. We both left wondering if there was something in the water.
We returned to our hotel and both were not very hungry. We decided to forgo dinner. The rest of the night was spent relaxing and writing.
End of Day 6

September 4th Day Five: Welcome To The Eastern Townships

2011-09-09T15:19:00.000-07:00

Good-Bye Quebec City

It is always hard to say good-bye to a friend and that is what Roy and I felt, when we left Quebec City. We had said our farewells to our new friend on L'Ile D'Orleans the day before as we did to Sharon. One becomes close when dealing in such a concentrated manner for four days but all good things must come to an end. We got up early and were on the road by 8:30 am. We had a two hour trip ahead of us so we had to get out early and stopped only once for coffee on the way up.

A Veritable Garden of Scenery, History, Wine and Cuisine

The Eastern Townships are a veritable garden of adventures for the tourist and/or film maker.

In many ways it reminded me of Styria---that gorgeous part of Austria that is the preamble to the Alps. The area is dotted with mountains, many lakes and rivers, little villages and forested areas. The wildlife is diverse. Here the churches are many----some very ornate and the history very pronounced. One had to be careful of the many bicyclists and riders who frequented back roads as well as pedestrians who were not afraid to walk a few kilometres.
The history of the area goes back to the 18th Century where it was settled by the British and then the French, Dutch, Swiss, Belgians, Polish and Germans. It is most definitely French Canadian now and very colourfully so.
Our destination was Magog, a city in southeastern Quebec, just 75 miles (12o kls) east of Montreal. Just prior to the reaching the city we took a back road to an old woolen mill near a small village called Ulverton. The area was settled by British Empire Loyalists around the beginning of the 19th century. The mill, complete with fully functional equipment for the processing of wool and took a few clips of the roaring rapids and the mill itself. We also were impressed with the covered bridge that spanned the creek/river the was responsible for the waterfall. I said to myself, "This must be a great Halloween vista!"
Getting back on the highway, we then made our way to Magog where we met Danie Beliveau at the hotel we were going to say in called the Estrimont Suites & Spa. We registered and then went to the "Fete des Vendages" which was a wine, cider, food, gourmet food, cheese, children's entertainment, music and celebrations in Magog. The celebrations took place near the scenic beauty of Lake Memphremagog and spilled over to the Main Street of the city. I particularly enjoyed the wine, cider, beer and liquor tent sponsored by the SAQ, which was the equivalent of the LCBO of Ontario. Many of the wineries and cideries that we were going to visit in the future were there and we also tried other products that were not on our agenda.
We also visited the "Cafe de village de Cantons-de-l'Est" which were a select group similar to the "Cafes de pays" in France. Located throughout the Eastern Townships they commonly served good coffee and an excellent, healthy menu.
We also visited the singing entertainment area and were treated to rock music via the "Troublemakers" and the harmonic songs of "A Voix Basses". As we moved down toward the food areas we looked upon a sand sculpture of a somewhat large "Jabba The Hut" type which was excellently done.
We then made our way to the city where we met with absolutely beautiful Pauline Larouche the Director General of the festival which was started in 1993 by that grand winery Cep D'Argent.
Pauline and I shared a lovely glass of Sparkling l'Orpailleur wine and discussed the great festival in an interview.
After the meeting Danie parted company with us as we made our way back to the Estrimont. We later met with her at the Estrimont dining area to have a meal made up of the tasting menu of the "fete de Vendages". The wine of the night was l'Orpailleur.
After the delicious meal that included great soup, jumbo shrimp, veal salad, venison and dessert, we said our goodbyes and went to our rooms. We did not see Danie again after that, unfortunately, but were grateful for her assistance and work on making up the itinerary.
This was a super day with super wines. It was a full day but one that was full of new experiences and great taste!!!
End of Day Five

September 3rd Day Four: Last Day In Quebec City

2011-09-06T15:17:00.000-07:00

Visiting The 'Marche de Vieux Quebec"
It was the last day in Quebec City and Sharon was determined that we have a peek on what makes Quebec "tick" by taking us around the city itself. Our first stop was the old market. The Old Port Market of Quebec dates back about 300 years and the model of the present market goes back to the early 19th Century.
The present market place has been part of the Quebec event repertoire since 1987. It has over one hundred exhibitors and some of the best fruit and vegetable stands anywhere. Things like purple, blonde and red carrots as well as huge amounts of cheeses, pates, wines, fish, bread, pies, meat, deli's, cookeries, art work, sculptures, pastries, currant shops etc.
It seems that chefs such as Jean Soulard and Francois from restaurants in the city all shop for their vegetables there.
Our guide was a pleasant and personable you man by the name of Johnny. This seventeen year old boy gave us a bit of comic relief as he was just on the cusp of his birthday next Tuesday and he seemed quite excited about it. His knowledge about the market was extensive and his energy was infectious. I couldn't help laugh when we tried the wines and invited him to do so, we really did not have to twist his arm. He exhibited all that I found great about Quebec---maturity with a quiet and youthful charm.
From the market, we were taken to a unique place---prison! The history here is quite unique as prisons of the day back in the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries were not the prisons of today. They were based on punishment without any form of rehabilitation.
Morin College
Morin College was originally built as a prison in 1808. It is an ominous four story structure that was in use as a prison until 1814. It was the first prison to reflect the ideas of British reformist John Howard. It was designed by French architect Francois Baillaigre.
It seems that John Howard, while travelling, was imprisoned by a privateer and later the French. This experience is believed by many to have influenced his ideas concerning prison reform.
Up until that time, prison was not a place for the weak of heart. Men, women and children were enclosed in the same area and treated the same. The mentally ill were lumped in the same group as the violent criminals. Though this prison was still archaic by today's standards, it had vast improvements. First of all the prisoners were segregated according to severity of crimes in separate cell blocks. There was rehabilitative attempts and personal hygiene was imposed (such as bathing once per week), Latrines or toilet areas very crude by today's standards were constructed.
The prison was converted to a college in 1868 and has served to the present day as the library and archives of the Literary and Historical Society of Quebec.
Going To Jail
Roy and I went to visit the old prison and were taken for a tour by Jonathan Rousseau, a college student studying law. The young lad was impressive with his knowledge and his presentation and he did have a great personality.
Dressed in period clothing he took us to the old jail where upon he described conditions of the time. He said that the jail had four levels and the residents were classed according to the crime committed. The four levels were as such: The top level was for Debtors. The second level was for those who were deemed untrustworthy i.e. not honouring contracts. The third level was for thieves and the fourth level (lowest) was for violent criminals and/or the insane.
Now it makes one wonder as to why the levels---it seems that the toilet system used was such that the top level got the least amount of "smelly returns" and each subsequent level got just a bit more with the lowest level being unbearable. So it seems those with the most shameful crimes got the most smell for their actions.
The tour was in deed interesting revealing various artifacts such as the "chain and ball" placed around the legs of prisoners plus "cat of Nine tails" used for punishment. Also observed were the graffiti of the day produced by bored prisoners and/or those wishing to play games i.e. a chess table carved into the wooden floor.
Of course there was the original jail cells which one such as I could hardly move in. I had to try the cell and it was an very unnerving feeling thinking that men/women and some children spent some or most of their lives in the cell. One thing, there were only 17 hangings for crimes. Much less than I suspected.
Church Of The Holy Trinity Anglican Church
The church was competed in 1804 as an answer to the strong Catholic congregation and their Church of Notre Dame. It was the first Anglican cathedral built outside of the British Isles and was patterned after St. Martins Church in Trafalgar Square in London, England. King George III agreed to fund the church as long as he was granted a permanent pew in it. He also provided a folio Bible, Communion silverware and prayer books. One thing not commonly known is that the church was designed to have a steeple/bell tower which was taller than that of the Catholic Church in the area.
Notre Dame Catholic Church
This church is a masterpiece of design and decoration. The ornateness challenges some of the best in the world and it has a crypt that has the bodies of faithful Catholics buried in a crypt after being moved there from an old cemetery. Samuel de Champlain's body is said to be among those entombed there. Also the bodies of Laval and Frontenac are entombed there.
The church was fully restored in 1922 when a suspected arsonist burned it down. The church was again restored from plans and photos taken. The exact copy is now in its place.
The church was both a great place and a sad one since we had to say good-bye to Sharon. She was an exceptional guide who endeared us and took care of our needs. Thanks Sharon.
A Bit Of Morocco
That night we had dinner at a Moroccan restaurant. The food was quite good. Roy had Lamb and Couscous which came with a Baklava dessert and coffee. I had Vegetables and Couscous and the same dessert. The coffee was great-----strong.
We then retired and prepared for our trip to the Eastern Townships.
End of Day Four

September 2nd: Day Three: Bilodeau Ciderie/Verger,Vignobles du Matin, Les Fromagerie de L'isle d'Orleans, Poissonerie Joseph Pacquet, Place Royale

2011-09-04T14:59:00.000-07:00

Back To Orleans!
Back again we went to L'Ile D'Orleans to visit more wineries and several other related vineyards. The first on the agenda was a Ciderie/Verger which made apple cider and different styles of apple wine and icewine as well as having apples for the picking. The Bilodeau Ciderie was that first stop. The family ciderie was the first mill erected in the island of Orleans and is a family run operation. The decor was that of a country theme and the atmosphere----very welcoming.
We were met by Sandra who gave us an escorted tour of the premises. Sandra was cute as a button in her way of expressing herself but she did a great job of it. She showed us the murals on the roof which pertained to various stages of making cider and close to that was the very old press that they used to use to crush the apples.
We then went into the kitchen where her mother and a group of ladies were engaged in making the pastry crusts and fill for apple pies that they were making. The pies looked delicious and I could hardly wait to taste but first we had to try some of the many types of ciders that the Bilodeau family makes. We went over t0 the "bar".
The two three first ciders that we tasted were all Gold Medal winners. The 'Fine Pleasure' was made with maple syrup and seemed an excellent aperitif. The 'Temptation' was just that---a temptation to keep on drinking the refreshing drink made with apple cider and strawberry juice all afternoon. And the 'Fascination' was an apple mistelle with maple syrup.
The Bilodeau family also produce a 'Raspberry Mistelle', a black currant mixed with cider drink called 'Reflections of Black Currant' as well as an ice cider called 'Ice Nectar'. They also produce a cider sparkling wine 'Symphony' in which the secondary fermentation is in the bottle such as they do in Champagne, France. For those who like a light and low alcohol cider there is 'The Little Apple' with 6 percent alcohol.
The fun came when I tasted the cider along with a slice of apple pie. I must admit that I have never tasted apple pie so delicious and with the cider--------perfection!
The cider making is very judicious where the apples are washed carefully, pressed and allowed to sit for three days filter out impurities. Then yeasts are added and fermentation takes place in stainless steel vats much like grape wine.
As mentioned before a sparkling cider is also made as per traditional methods and the iced cider begins its life on the orchard trees where apples are left on the tree until the temperature goes down to a chilling -15 degrees Celsius. The apples are then crushed and fermented. After fermentation the ice apple cider is aged for a year in oak barrels.
In addition to the ciders and apple pie, a number of other products were available at the farm such as a phenomenal apple butter.
I can attest that a visit to the Bilodeau family's business is well worth the trip and it's only 15 minutes from Quebec City.
Vinoble Du Matin
From cider we then went to grape wine in the form a thoroughly charming family. The family Turcotte operates Vignoble du Matin not far from the Bilodeau farm. The vineyard was founded in 1998 on land that has been in the family since 17th Century. A house on the property dates back to that time and though is of great historic significance presently is unoccupied.
The family has 8,000 vines of different varieties planted and make a wide variety of wines which can be tasted on their terrace where the wine can be enjoyed with food. The wines----all good---range from a charming white 'La Barrique', a very nice mid sweet white called 'Le Mi Temps whose citrus, spice and lychee flavours reminded me of a Gewurztraminer, a superb rose 'L'Aube', and a very strong red 'Le Rigolet' made for meat and wild game. Winemaker Marcellin
also makes an outstanding icewine 'Ice Storm'. He also makes two fortified wines which are excellent as well as a sparkling rose.
I found his daughter very charming. Maria Christina is young, attractive and full of 'Joie de Vivre'. We had great fun in doing the initial introduction scene. It was great to see such a close family but soon we had to be off again to visit several other places----one of which was right down the road.
Les Fromages De L'Isle D'Orleans
A special cheese made from recipes that were brought back by French colonists is made at this 'fromagerie'. It was around the 17th Century that residents of the island began to make their own cheese. Up until the late 1970's this type of cheese was still being made but then it disappeared----some say that government regulations prohibited the making of this cheese and thus put an end to it. The cheese however made a comeback in 2004.
Apparently the big hubbub was about the use of pasteurized milk in its usage as well as the use of the equipment. The problem was solved by the isolation of a particular bacteria that gives the cheese its taste. This allowed for the bacteria to be sprayed onto the cheese and doing its good work.
The manufacture of the cheese works this way: The milk is curdled with rennet---adding the ferment that gives the cheese its taste. At this stage the cheese could be considered "Cottage Cheese" and thus sold as such.
Further the cheese is allowed to drain and it is removed from the mould. The cheese which takes on the appearance of a cake is then placed of a mat made from water reeds and dried for several days---being turned several times to allow it to dry well. This type of cheese is sold under the name of "The Doormat" and used for roasting.
Further work on the cheese such as aging for 28 to 30 days and repeated washings with salt water and its moisture being monitored.
The cheese is then washed and scented and is sold as "Refined".
Tasting Ideas
Cottage Cheese
This type of cheese can be used in various styles with caramelized fruit, syrups, bagels with berries, smoked fish and pasta dishes.
Doormat Cheese
Roast in a skillet without fat over medium heat for a couple of minutes on each side and use it for the following:
As is! Or--on phyllo pastry, fruit, salad (mango), burgers, sausage and peppers, other cheeses.
Refined
Have with crusty bread---Yumm!
See A Bit Of The Past
Eating a bit of the great cheese is great but the whole aspect of the tour came alive when we saw the young ladies and their period costumes. One can see a film presentation on the cheeses of America as well as partake in the tasting of cheese and spruce beer. On sale are various products from other areas which would be of interest to Gastronomic and Gourmet alike. This would be a visit well worth the time.
Visit To The Poissonerie!
We left the Fromagerie and proceeded to visit a place where smoked fish were sold. This was the place that Sharon spoke about the Sturgeon and various other fish are sold as smoked delicacies.
I tasted a few and must admit that I did find the taste great but the one thing that stuck in my mind was that Sturgeons in particular are slow growing fish that are not what you would call very common. Why then are the fish being slaughtered. Should they not be protected? I love my fish and will consume copious amounts of smoked salmon when available but-----not at the expense of the species. Sturgeon are not on my eat list!
Back To Quebec City
We sadly left L'Ile D'Orleans for the last time and went back to Quebec City. Sharon thought that we would be interested in seeing Place Royale in old Quebec. Its history dates back to 1608 and Samuel de Champlain. In fact, the foundation of his second house is within its borders as is the famous Notre Dame Des Victoires (Our Lady Of Victories). Marked in a black lined parameter at the front of the church is where Champlain's fur trading post initially was.
About the church---it got its name when Sir William Phipps demanded that Governor General Frontenac surrender. The Governor replied that his only reply would be from the mouths of his cannons. Phipps did attack but was so pestered by the French forces that he fell into the bluff of psychological warfare and never completed the invasion. Another invasion later on also failed and the city was not tested until the battle in 1759. The city inhabitants were so gratified and happy at the victory that they gave it its present name. The original church was built in 1687 was given it name at the defeat of Phipps in 1690 and again in 1711 after the failure of the second invasion by British Admiral Walker. The church was destroyed by Wolfe in 1759 but restored by 1766.
The Place Royale sports several interesting sites. The bust of King Louis Fourteenth still watches over people moving around the square. Erected in 1686, it still looks in great condition----must be in the genes! A large two or three story high wall mural that faces on coming crowds of tourists. It depicts historical figures within a large hotel of sorts----all looking out the windows. Here we also came upon a dedication to the explorer Louis Joliet who with Catholic Priest and Missionary Jacques Marquette, was the first to explore the Mississippi River area.
Then there are the restaurants! We ate at "Le Petit Cochon Dingue" of the "Little Crazy Pig". There was nothing crazy about the lunch we got. Simple and very tasty.
Before we called it a day, we were taken to the Auberge D'Antoine where we visited the famous restaurant "Panache". We also viewed the wine list of "Restaurant Initiale" a very famous restaurant that is one of the very few that is featured with "Relais et Chateaux" a very prestigious and famous hotel/restaurant group. The wine list was very, very good and no one wanted to believe that I had many wines on their list-----in my cellar at home.
The day was a good one but as they say----all good things-----! Tomorrow was to be our last day in Quebec City!
END Of Day Three.

September 1st: Continued: Chateau Frontenac Adventure

2011-09-03T13:41:00.000-07:00

'Rocky' Goes To The Boardwalk
It seemed like a boxing match it did, trying to figure out who was going to win the traffic match coming back. However, Sharon fought her way over all sorts of obstacles that day to get us safely to the meeting with Richard Seguin who we thought would never see again the night before. Richard had this great idea of meeting under the shadow of the great Chateau Frontenac.
We met and then the brainstorms hit! Richard said, "Why not go up there?" He pointed to the outdoor patio style cafe extension of the Frontenac Restaurant "Le Champlain" with a great view of the St. Lawrence River. Up we went to the Chateau.
As we walked up I could not help but be in awe of the fantastic history of this World Renowned Hotel that I had heard of even when I was a younger---much younger----person.
History
Ever since William van Horne, President of Canadian Pacific Railways decided to build it in 1893 this hotel has been a draw to many famous people, politicians, musicians, film stars and sports personalities. In fact, the daughter of its architect, Bruce Price, was none other than Emily Post. The coat-of-arms of its namesake, Louis de Buade, Count of Frontenac can be seen in many areas of the 679 room hotel. He was a Knight of Malta (having led a command against a Turkish attack on Crete for the Knights of St. Jean/Malta) as indicated on a 300 year old stone of the hotel's vaulted lobby.
Many historic figures have made the hotel their place of residence while visiting Quebec. King George VI and his Queen Elizabeth, Queen Elizabeth II, President Franklin D. Roosevelt, Winston Churchill, William Lyon Mackenzie, Ronald Reagan, Charles De Gaulle, Charlie Chaplin, James Cagney and Anthony Quinn all stayed there and more recently, the likes of Paul McCartney, Angela Jolie, Steven Spielberg and Leonardo DiCaprio visited its halls.
The Interview(s)
I certainly realized that I was in very historic and famous walls when we entered and made our way to the restaurant. Richard suggested that we sit by the window overlooking the river. From the window we could see the two large ferries taking vehicles across the mighty river. One was coming while the other was going and vice verse----each loaded with passengers and cars.
We were next to the Terrace Cafe and conducted the interview sitting down and having a glass of wine. Again we opted for Quebec wine from a vineyard called "Orpailleur". This time it was the white.
During the interview we spoke about Quebec Tourism and the numbers of people who migrate as tourists every year. We spoke about the extent to which the government of Quebec City goes to make sure that the city continues to attract tourists as well as to keep it attractive. Finally we spoke about the outreach of Quebec Tourism which allows its representatives to go abroad to market the region to other countries.
Just as the interview was winding down, Executive Chef Jean Soulard came over and introduced himself. This was a veritable coupe. We arranged to have an interview with him and he suggested the roof top. We went to the very top of Chateau Frontenac, some 200 feet up above the ground level or Boardwalk. There this amazing chef who was/is considered on of Canada's best if not the best, showed us his surprise. His private garden was there consisting of four bee hives, a hen house with five hens, a large variety of herbs and flowers.
Executive Chef Jean Soulard
A fellow who likes to jog every morning and then sits quietly pondering his day's work best described Jean Soulard's idea of his favourite time of the day. This humble and ingratiating person was the first Canadian to be awarded "Maitre cuisinier de France" and has been with the Chateau for eighteen years. Born in La Gaubretiere, France he learned to value natural things and nature itself. He learned that local was best---something that has been making a strong comeback in many areas of the world. He got his practical experience in various hotels all over the globe and has worked under the best chefs anywhere. He has authored seven books on the subject as well as frequently being on television and radio.
Where would he find the time to manage and oversee a four kitchen hotel making 3000 meals a day in addition to a catering service and banquet halls?? Fact was/is that he does so and does so well. His concern with health, good eating and local food sources have been in keeping with the hotel's environmental strategies.
Meeting Genevieve Parent
In addition to Jean Soulard, we had the pleasure of meeting Genevieve Parent, the Director of Public Relations for the hotel. "I look forward to coming to work every day because I am in love with this hotel", she said, "I have always wanted to work here and even when employed elsewhere, my dream was to work at Chateau Frontenac!" Ms. Parent went on to talk about the relationship and commitment of staff and management to the hotel and the hotel to them. She seemed alive and very satisfied. It was so nice to see.
Obliged To Nature And The World!
The Fairmont Le Chateau Frontenac was awarded the "Four Green Key Rating" from the Hotel Association of Canada for hotels that have shown committed national industry leadership to protecting the environment as well as ReserVert for the sustainable development of the Quebec hotel industry. In addition, the hotel supports the conservation of animal life in animal adoption programs (such as adopting Beluga Whales, having a canine ambassador and supporting a Polar Bear) and protecting the Saint-Lawrence Maritime Environment.
What Has This All To Do With Wine???!!!!
The series is called "Two In A Vineyard"! So why all this about a hotel, its history and the environment. Why the Chef and Public Relations interview? Why the local stuff??
The answer is that we live in a global vacuum. I believe that everything we do on this planet affects the rest of it. I believe in the the theory that dropping a pebble on one side of the ocean will eventually create a ripple on the other shore. Thus I see my passion of wine as being a hub of a large wagon wheel with all the spokes being the various related (and some unrelated items) reciprocally affecting its nature and it theirs. I have said many times that a world that is unbalanced can only unbalance its cohabitants. We are seen some of this now with climate change and already many wine making countries are concerned with the effect of this on their vines.
I see many atrocities around the world. In the middle of an ocean, thousands of miles from anywhere there are floating gobs of plastic and plastic line where animals of all kinds are being entangled and die a horrible death. Jungles are being destroyed. Human habitation is being threatened every day. "Two In A Vineyard" recognizes that what affects wine will also affect the world. I have always stated that: Wine is History! Wine is Geography! Wine is Science! Wine is Culture! Wine is People! This meaning is as true today for all its purposes as it was when I first said it!!!!!
End of Day Two (at 108)

September 1st: Part One: Back To L'Isle D'Orleans

2011-09-02T13:41:00.000-07:00

Back To Orleans!

L'Isle de l'Orleans was called the "Island of Sorcerers" by mainland people because of the lights they used to see just above the water. They didn't realize that poachers were using these lights to see where they going and and what they were doing. The rumour spread about the 'sorcerers' and the name stuck.

Domaine De La Source a Marguerite

Owner Conrad Brillant was one of the most colourful persons that I have yet to meet. Standing tall with his black Stetson hat and rugged work clothes and boots, he presented a picture of success in defiance. He did not speak English---though judging from his profession as a banker this may have been a preference rather than an inability. However, his general demeanour was such that the character he presented overcame any language barrier that was presented. I liked him. In a way he reminded me of my friend Tino Fazio of Oshawa who spoke with a strong accent but was liked because of his colourful character.

Conrad told us that the name of the business comes from the fact that years ago there was a drought and a nun by the name of Marguerite came to the spot and knelt down and a spring started flowing ----magically. His vineyard is not far from that spring.

His vineyard was indeed magnificent in both its content and location on the banks of the St. Lawrence River. While visiting we saw many types of flora and fauna----one of which was a Bald Eagle that was nesting close by.

His vineyards are planted with red grape vines: Marechal Foch, Muscat, Leon Millot, Frontenac,

Dechaunac, Mitchurinetz (Russian), Sabrevois (New Hardy USA Grape) plus a list of numbered grape varieties : DM85, ES-5-1-7, ES-4-7-25. From these he produces a red wine by the name of his vineyard and his business. I enjoyed his wines and found his business quite interesting.

He also produces a Mistelle---grape juice fortified by alcohol (brandy) which produces a fine after dinner aperitif or singular sweet drink.

Grape wines are not the only source of products however. He does have various fruit products and ciders from 34 varieties of apples, pears, plums, cherries, raspberries, gooseberries, currants and of course grapes. Also produced are jams and jellies.

The business has been active since 2001 and it seems that the success is just going to grow.

One thing about Conrad is that he is a great inventor and do it yourself person. I had first hand knowledge regarding a vine trimmer that he put together. I touched lightly the blades and so sharp were they that I cut my finger quite easily. I could imagine what would have happened if the blades were more tightly grabbed.

We had a great interview and photo session. Amazing what can be done if one does not get all hung up with semantics.

I truly enjoyed meeting Conrad and wish him every success in the future.

Cassis Mona et Fils

If Conrad was an inventor, Bernard Monna was a passionate artist. He was the first to produce Black Currant Wine and Creme de Cassis in Quebec. He found the area perfect for the growth of the currants. He also proved to be a fine artist, pottery maker and sculpture -----applying his art in his home. Bernard came from a family with a long history of liquor production in his native Southern France. A fourth generation liquorist, he fell in love with Quebec and decided to move there in the mid 1970's.

The tall lanky and soft spoken person looks too young to have two mature young ladies as daughters but Anne and Catherine are indeed beautiful and very capable ladies who are learning to take over the family business. They do so with passion also and ------with a certain pride in their father that is very evident. Catherine does the work of the winery and tractor driving while Anne handles the wine tasting and shows that market the wine. Both do their job very well and their disarming beauty (looks and genes that they obviously inherited from their father) certainly help them quite well.

Our first interview was with Anne in the boutique. We tasted different variations of their Cassis------all deliciously sweet. Each cassis had a different taste and useage: The 'Creme de Cassis' could be used on its own (delicious) or in making Kir (adding Cassis to white wine) or on top of fruit.

'Le Fruite' was lighter but equally delicious. It could be served on ice or as a Sangria along with a fine meal. 'Le Maderise' came with the flavourful unique blend of dates, roasted coffee and wood. Recommended was a match to dark chocolate. 'Capiteux' was more port like in its flavours with a nutty, vanilla and ripe plum/prune taste. Cheese such as Blue Cheese or even a cigar were recommended.

Lunch went very well as I had a delicious marinated chicken sandwich along with the famous fries and salad. The drink-----the Sangria from the Monna special recipe. After lunch we interviewed Mr. Monna in front of the Barn on which was one of his creations----a sculptured, rooster shapped weather vane. We spoke of his life in France and what brought him to Quebec. He did mention that he liked salmon fishing but he fell in love with the area.

Mr. Monna showed us his pottery art as well as some of his other sculptures. Anne brought out his unique artwork from his studio---which he said was a total disaster since he was looking after a rather disruptive canine for his friend. Going back and forth on the tractor was Christine who was working hard getting products ready for loading onto a van. She was heading for a show.

When she did get off and came over to shake my hand I was at once stunned by her good looks, youthful age (she looked much younger than her age) and strong grip. Obviously the two girls are their father's daughters.

Time came to say good bye to the Monna family and soon we were off to another filming destination.

Sainte Famille

We went by the Village of Sainte Famille which was one of the oldest established areas of the island. The church was an 18 Century masterpiece established in 1743 and was in a central location surrounded by the cemetary and a park errected in the honour of those ancestors of present day Sainte Famille and L'Isle d'Orleans. A quick photo session and then we were off to Montmorancy Falls.

Montmorency Falls

From the highway going towards and coming back from L'Ile D'Orleans, one can get a glimpse of Montmorency Falls. Located as part of the Montmorency River and within the park by the same name, this falls is huge. It is 98 feet higher than Niagara plus 150 feet wide. Given its name in 1613 by Samuel de Champlain, he named it after Henry Duke of Montmorency (Viceroy of New France from 1620 to 1625). The falls serves to attract many tourists and served as the location for the Ice Hotel----a hotel made totally of ice, including all furniture, beds and even some untensils such as cups/glasses.

We went to the base of the falls on our way back from Orleans and watched at the awesome site of water cascading down the cliff. Sharon remarked that the view was that much more spectacular since the heavy downpours the week before. Next to the falls but hidden from view is the other smaller falls with the sad legend of lost love and lost life. The legend which has been repeated by different persons and in slightly different manners is generally spoken of this way.

Louis was a soldier in love with Mathilde. The loved each other and he asked her father who was very aware of their love, for her hand in marriage. The father agreed and plans were made for the wedding. It was at that time (1759) that General Wolfe made an assault on the French at Montmorency Falls. The French repelled the attack and Mathilde, on hearing this news, happily went over to greet the victorious French. She found him dead----one of the casualties. So grief stricken was she that she went back to her home, put on her bridal gown and veil and went to the top of the falls from which she threw herself off. A similar story has her being left at the chapel waiting but the ending is the same. Her ghost is said to be seen by the pure in heart. Will ever have a chance to see it-------I wonder!!!!!!

It was time to head back to Quebec City. Roy took some pictures and video and then we were off to meet Richard Seguin for an interview on the boardwalk of Chateau Frontenac.

END OF PART ONE

August 31st: Quebec: A Wine Region That Encompasses History, Geography, Cuisine and Culture

2011-08-31T18:45:00.001-07:00

Getting Started

The day finally came! Soon Roy and I would board a plane heading for the wine areas of Quebec. I had long wanted to write and film Quebec, referred in the history books as Lower Canada. Quebec is probably the first area in Canada where any attempt to grow grapevines was made by missionaries in the 17th Century. Around the same time, Samuel de Champlain attempted planting vinifera species but found that the grapes were neither resistant to the diseases and/or extreme temperatures and climate that affected them. One thing, the grapevines did live long enough to have an impact on the indigenous grape varieties (vitis ripara) that were living there already. These in fact cross bred with the viniferas to produce some mildly different species.

It was Jacques Cartier in the 16th Century who first eyed the multitude of grapes growing on an island in the St. Lawrence River which he named L'Ile de Bacchus for the Roman god of wine and inebriation. He later changed the name to L'Ile d'Orleans after the Duke of Orleans.

The vitis riparia were small, sharp and not easy to work with but they produce some wine for various uses as jams and even Sacramental wine for communion celebrations. The history of wine in Quebec is the story of a struggle against odds for wine to become an accepted product in Canada. However with the increase in technology as well as new wine making techniques began to produce palatable and food friendly wines out of hybrid vines.

In the 1980's viticulture took an upswing in Quebec and in 1987 the Association des Vignerons du Quebec was formed. A quality assurance approach was created in the form of the Vin du Quebec Certification, which among other things had a guarantee of origin and had the task of obtaining a recognizable specificity for its wines.

In Quebec

We were registered at the Hotel Vieux Quebec, a 45 room hotel that is located within the 18th century walls of the old city. Here one could easily believe that this was old Europe at its best with winding cobblestone streets, old buildings, cafes full of people, top restaurants, shops and bakeries. The area is etched in history and culture. Of course the cuisine was also on the menu so to speak. A short distance away was the Chateau Frontenac and City Hall. Staying at the hotel that was voted "best located hotel in Quebec City" had its advantages. Staying at the location of a World Heritage Site was amazing.

Sharon Frenette

Once settled we were met by stunningly lovely Sharon Frenette. Our guide from Quebec City Tourism was immediately likable and soon we were off to the L'Ile D'Orleans for our first visit to a winery. The ride was full of picturesque scenery with a continuous backdrop of the majestic St. Lawrence River. We came to a suspension bridge known as "Le Pont De L'Ile" which was constructed in 1935. Up until then it was a ferry that provided access to the Isle.

Once across, I could see that this was going to be one interesting venture. From a distance I could see Montmorency Falls----a very impressive 275 foot high waterfall some 98 feet higher than Niagara Falls. Not far from it was the Voile de la Mariee Falls which was the site of a sad happening, according to legend, of a bride that was left standing at the alter by her soldier husband to be. Wanting to find out what happened to him she searched the area only to find his dead body due to a military altercation. In anguish, she jumped off the falls to her death. It is said that on a clear moonlit night, those pure in heart can see the ghost of the bride to be standing at the top of this waterfalls.

About L'Ile D'Orleans

This scenic isle is a hub of agricultural treasures. Here new technology combines with old world knowledge to produces some of the finest fruits, berries, plants, vines anywhere. Combined with a natural beauty the is unsurpassed, a historic accent that enlivens the imagination and a cuisine that is to die for, this area seems to offer both locals and visitors much to appreciate. Sharon had a vast knowledge of the area and what impressed me the most was that she also knew and could combine the present with the past to bring about a unique historical perspective.

Vignoble Ste Petronille

Our first visit was to Vignoble Ste Petronille. The area was settled as a mission by the Jesuits in the 1650's and was used by General Wolfe as a headquarters. In 1870 the parish was formed and named after Saint Petronilla who was a Roman martyr. This village has many fine old cottages-------some founded by the British after the Battle of the Plains of Abraham in 1759.

Here we visited with Nathalie Lane who owns the winery along with Louis Denault. Having the winery for almost 21 years, they have produced some exceptional wines. Nathalie mentioned that the climate was not good for certain grapes to grow. So the concentration was on grapes that could mature within the time frame of a shorter growing period. What they have done is excellent and tasting their wines, it seems that they have found their niche.

We tasted a white wine called "Viole de la Mariee" which had a pleasant and refreshing taste. The Vidal and Vandal-Cliche grapes which are a cross of a cross. (Vandal 63 which is a Prince of Wales and riparia cross and Vandal 163 which is an Aurore and Chancellor cross). The Vandal-Clicher are hardy vines can resist temperatures of -35 Centigrade and are earlier maturing grape variety. The wine was citrus/floral in nose and flavour with a refreshing acidity.

"Reserve du bout de l'ile" had the just Vandal-Cliche. Barrel aging gave the wine a sweeter taste from the oak and more complexity with essence of vanilla and toast in the flavours. "Cuvee Ste Petronille" was a red wine made from St-Croix, Sabrevois and Baco Noir. The wine which I thought could use more aging was indicative of a good food wine and one that aging could assist. It showed good sugar and acidity that was fresh and lively. "Vandal--Vin de Glace" showed immediate appeal with peach, apricot and sweet fruit flavours. Picked under perfect conditions with grapes that were ideal for the area, this will be a shining achievement for this vineyard.

I also enjoyed "Insula" an aperitif Mistelle made from grape juice fortified with brandy.

While the vineyard does not have the length of season that may be available in other wine regions, I think that they have done great work with what they have and from what I could see of the scenery, healthy vines, visitors and the boutique---they have a great deal.

Down Through L'Ile D' Orleans

We were then taken down through the island and looked at the sites of the isle. Many of the cottages that were definitely British by design and houses with bright red and pastel roofs that were actually quite pretty. I recall thinking that many reminded me of Laura Berry paintings with their bright colours and style. The houses and roofs were patterned after the houses found in France and have kept up the architectural image.

The history of the island jumped out almost everywhere we went for example in the Village of Saint-Laurent, a group of New England Rangers under General Wolfe came upon the Church of Saint-Laurent to find a note made out to the "The Worthy Officers of the British Army" by the Parish Priest asking them to protect his church and home. It seems that they were so moved by this note that they honoured the note.

We passed by many types of farms some that produced strawberries and others lavender and still others asparagus, raspberries, apples, pears and currants. The island was a wealth of agriculture.

I was thoroughly impressed with the diversity of products on this scenic place.

Back To Hotel Vieux Quebec and Dinner At Entrecote Saint-Jean.

Sharon took us back to the hotel and we prepared for a meeting with Mr. Richard Seguin of Quebec City Tourism. We met him in the lobby of the hotel at 7 PM and proceeded to walk up the street of rue Saint-Jean until we came to the restaurant Entrecote Saint-Jean. The restaurant reminded me of a Parisian Cafe/Bistro and was obviously very good since it was quite full of happy guests----on a Wednesday.

Richard was a handsome, quite slim man with a very mild mannered and pleasant disposition. He seemed to be one who was as the French would say---full of "Joie-Vivre" or "Joy of Life". He said that he was not a native Quebec City dweller but came for one week and ended up staying for over 27 years. We discussed our itinerary and what we had planned to do regarding the filming of the area and then ordered a delicious meal of "Cream of Celery Soup, Steak and Fries" along with a bottle of -----what else?-----Quebec Wine. We picked "L'Orpailleur Rouge" a wine from the Eastern Townships that went very well with the food.

I liked Richard and enjoyed his company. I was sorry to see the evening end. However, all good things------! The night ended and back we went to the hotel. It was the only time that we were to spend with Richard which was unfortunate since he was a most friendly and kind person.

The rest of the night was spent planning for the next day which I was sure, was going to be a very busy day.

End of First Day

August 16: Two In A Vineyard Goes To Niagara With Wine Writers Circle Of Canada

2011-08-31T18:41:00.000-07:00

August 5th Continued: An Interview With Donald Ziraldo

2011-08-20T05:37:00.000-07:00

On Taking Chances
I have always had a deep respect for risk takers---especially those who "bit the bullet" and forged ahead when all common sense and "expert advice" suggested otherwise. I know only too well the sleepless nights, the sudden awakenings at 4 am, covered in a cold sweat with that nagging sensation of forbidding doom and the question, "God! What have I gotten myself into?" and that "nowhere to run and/or hide" feeling in the deep gut of the stomach! It happens to all those who go out on a limb----truly where no one normally dares go-----and just hopes that there is enough strength to go on!!!! It is a lonely feeling because the only person experiencing it is the one involved. Expectations are both very high and yet at the same time full of pitfalls. The well wishers are few and those that would take pleasure of saying "I told you so!", many.
Risk takers are a rare breed. They live on the edge yet flourish in the face of adversity. Many fall behind, discouraged and defeated. Others however, reach down and pull up that needed inner fortitude and belief in one's self thus securing success. Donald Ziraldo is one such person. This is why I am dedicating this blog to him.
The Beginnings
No one can provide a formula as to what makes one person great and/or outstanding and what doesn't. In many ways it comes from the blunt decision "to go for it" and "let the chips fall as they may". I don't think for one minute that when Ziraldo was a boy that he said to himself---"Oh, I'm going to make award winning wine some day!" Not so!!!!
Inspiration and ideas come from a number of sources and then funnel down through a form of spout and emerge in a flow of ideas that seem to gel into one, two or even three visionary items.
Donald Ziraldo's vision started in the area of Friuli before he was born.
His father emigrated to Canada from his native Friuli when he was 16 and worked in the Northern Ontario goldmines. He then purchased some land in Niagara and became a fruit farmer. He worked hard, got married and raised a family.
Moving Forward
Some time later, his son, Donald, decided to attend the University of Guelph from which he got a degree in Agronomy in 1971. According to one source, it was after he graduated that he made up his mind to become involved with wine making. The story goes that he was given a gold ring by his mother and it had an etching of grapes on it. He took this to be a sign and the rest is history.
From his contacts in Europe he theorized that specific vinifera vines would do well in the Niagara area. He purchased land in Niagara after graduation and set out planting vines that he obtained from Italy.
The "Destiny" Partnership
A couple of years later he met Karl Kaiser, a chemist with a wine background. Karl came to buy some "European" grapevines from Donald's nursery and struck up a friendship. They became partners and applied for the a winery licence------the first in some 33 years. That was in 1974 and, after many road blocks and advice from detractors, the license came in 1975. Instrumental in getting the license (and suggesting the name) was General George Kitching who was the Chairperson of the LCBO at the time. Inniskillin was born.
A Historic Name
The name was derived from the Inniskilling Fusiliers, an Irish Regiment that fought during the War of 1812-14. fo A grant of Crown Land was given to a certain Colonel Cooper who aptly named it Inniskillin Farm after the Regiment. The name seemed very apropos so the name stuck. The initial winery was no more than a shed which ironically "shed" a light onto a whole new industry.
Inniskillin-----The Winery
Inniskillin became much in demand and in 1978 the winery moved the the present location of the Brae Burn Vineyard location that came complete with an old barn reputed to have been inspired by Frank Lloyd Wright. At one point Inniskillin made headlines on a proposed sale of 600 cases of Inniskillin Marechal Foch to Chauvenet, a French negotiant. Though the sale did not take place because of European guideline requirements, the fact that a French wine company was willing to buy the wines was huge. In addition, because of the consequential block by the European Market of the wines was somewhat of a challenge. The requirement for an appellation to appear on the label in order to enter the "EU" or European Union led Donald to found the Vintners' Quality Alliance (VQA).
Forging Ahead Towards Destiny
The 1980's were a whiz of activity with vineyard purchases in 1982 (Montegue); a successful Icewine harvest in 1984 (the 1983 was eaten by birds) and the founding of Inniskillin Napa in 1989. However, the best and most powerful accolade was to come in 1991.
Up until that time in 1991, the "naysayers" and detractors kept spouting their negatives about Canadian wines in general. When it came to Inniskillin, they basically played down all the efforts as faddish and that they were doomed to failure. At VinExpo in Bordeaux France---the hub of winedom as we then knew it and with the most scrutinizing and self appreciating judges in the World------Inniskillin 1989 Vidal Icewine was chosen as the best of the show winning the Grand Prix d'Honneur. Out of over 4,000 exhibitors, it was the voted best. This neither happened in Canada nor the United States but in what some would call "hostile" territory where "outside wines from the New World were judged harshly.
Inniskillin, Donald Ziraldo and Karl Kaiser, in fact Canada and Ontario were now thrust into the limelight that so many swore would never be achieved by a Canadian wine and wine company.
Continued Growth
Under the guidance of Ziraldo and Kaiser, Inniskillin went on to grow further with Inniskillin Okanagan in 1994 and to win many other awards such as the "Chardonnay du Monde" contest in Burgundy. Many alliances were formed between Inniskillin and companies around the globe such as a joint venture between Jaffelin, Burgundy (purchased by Boisset Famille des Grands Vins) and Inniskillin which eventually led to the purchase of land in Jordan and the creation of Le Clos Jordanne. New products such as a Sparkling Icewine and Donald's book "Anatomy of a Winery" in 2000 celebrated the Millenium. I also remember quite well when Donald Ziraldo introduced the idea of planting special Riesling vines in 2004 with plans to harvest them in 2010 just in time for the Olympics in Vancouver. Insight and foresight with a good hold on hindsight were always part of Ziraldo's itinerary. However as the phrase, "All good things must come to an end!" says, both Karl Kaiser and Donald Ziraldo decided it was time to move on. Kaiser retired and remained on a consultative basis and Donald Ziraldo became involved as an ambassador for the Canadian Wine Industry and a leader in the research for Canadian Wine. In addition, in 2005 he authored a book "Icewine: Extreme Winemaking" to tell the story of Icewine. He also "gave back" by co-chairing the Cool Climate Oenology and Viticulture Institute at Brock University. This continued with his chairing of the Niagara Culinery Insitute. This made sure that the next generation of winemakers, chefs and viticulturists were being trained in Niagara.
Moving On To Future Exploits
Standing still was not in Donald Ziraldo's blood however.

I'm going to add these couple of lines for progression. Donald could give lessons to the "Energizer Bunny"! His newest project started with his appraisal of a Portuguese winery in the Douro Region of Portugal for a friend of his. This "favour" ended up with him being on its Board of Directors. He will be going back to Portugal to oversee the transition of the classified, 37 acre property, which produces Oporto and Douro wines----soon to start the harvest.The winery comes complete with a 12th Century Cisterian Monastery called Sao Pedro dos Aquias, a winery, Quinta do Convento and cellar. Mr. Ziraldo just keeps on going and going!!!!

Many Awards
For his extraordinary contributions to Canadian Wine he was given Canada's highest honours by being awarded "The Order of Canada". This was in 1998. In 1993 he was awarded the Order of Ontario and in 2002 received the "Queen's Golden Jubilee Award"! The National Post voted him "One Of The Top CEO's Of The Century" in 1999. The awards have been many and could have easily filled this blog. He recently took over as Chairman of the Vineland Research Station and that was exactly where I contacted him while Sandie, Roy and me were at Daniel Lenko's and made arrangements for us to visit him where it all started. We had come full circle and in some ways so had Mr. Ziraldo!
Visit With Donald Ziraldo, August 5, 2011
In an interview I did with him back in 2000 We had talked about Inniskillin and its place in the whole scheme of things. Being a man of few words, he said, in soft spoken voice, "No matter where I plan to go or whatever country I visit, my heart will always be at Inniskillin."
We met him at the place where this love affair began almost 40 years ago!!
We drove North down the ultra scenic Niagara Parkway to Side Road 58 and made a left turn down a narrow road that went between two houses. For all intent and purpose it could have easily been a driveway.
The road opened up to a mass of vineyards to the right of us (North) and meandered through a number of vineyards, orchards and crop fields before heading to what seemed to be a highway of sorts. Realizing that we had come too far, we backtracked to the entrance and this time veered to the South past what seemed to be a Greenhouse/Horticultural business. To the left just a few yards past the greenhouse was a young vineyard with a large white house on the side and a road leading up to it. The lone figure of a man wearing a white wide brimmed hat and dressed in a sky blue shirt seemed to be waiting for us. It was Donald Ziraldo.
He welcomed us with smiles and open arms. Sandie and Roy were immediately "taken" by his charm and genuineness. We took a number of still pictures and then were led what appeared to be a cement foundation not far from the house and young vineyard. Pointing to the large square piece of cement that we were standing on he said, "This is the site of the fruit packing shed that was the original Inniskillin winery in 1973."
When he mention that the whole demeanor of the interview seemed to change. I couldn't help but notice this change within me and making a mental note that the human being are indeed a complicated creature. We attach so much significance to history and relics----being on the spot.
I felt the same way when I visited Umbria and saw Assisi---home of St. Francis. I felt that way when I visited Fess Parker in Los Olivos. Standing amidst the wide expanse of the Little Big Horn had the same feeling as did seeing "The Spirit Of St. Louis" at the Smithsonian. Now it was Inniskillin's turn. In a way it was a place of reverence. This patch of cement amidst a vineyard and a big white house had a sense of reverence about it. And I was there to contemplate!
I picked up what seemed to be a rusty iron flower pot hanger that was amongst the debris strewn on the ground. It had significance also.
"Can I have this? I asked" Donald Ziraldo gave his approval saying, "We have picked up many artifacts and mementos." I felt lucky I had a piece of the original Inniskillin in my hands. Lucky indeed!
Now it was time to "shoot" a formal interview for "Two In A Vineyard". Sandie and Donald Ziraldo sat on the steps leading to the large white house in the background. The house itself proved to be an interesting point itself.
"The house was on the property when I bought it in 1971 upon graduation from the University of Guelph. Rumour had it that General Brock's girlfriend stayed there....!" If only the walls could talk!
The two went on to talk about the beginnings at Inniskillin and then talk shifted towards the vineyard just a few yards away.
"When I became involved with the Research Station I decided that I show that I was practicing what I preached concerning going back to nature," He said. "So this vineyard dedicated to Icewine is totally organic!"
Ziraldo and Sandie talked about the influence and research of various countries and ironically touched on Austria's Klosterneuburg. They spoke about vines that do well in Ontario and various parts of Canada and about the future of wine in Canada. Of course Cool Climate Technology, a pet project and one that Donald Ziraldo had invested a great deal of time in was discussed.
Humour was also a part in the conversation. At one point in the discussion regarding the beginnings of Icewine he remarked, "Making of Icewine was a learning experience, we were excited about our first crop of icewine grapes and went out one day to find the vines bare.Birds had eaten all the grapes. Next time we used netting."
At another point, I became so involved watching the duo converse about Austrian wine and Klosterneuburg that I inadvertently cut into the conversation----completely forgetting that the camera (and sound) was running. That's how good the interview was going. One forgot that he was supposed to be directing/producing and not involving!
The interview went on to discuss future plans for the vineyard and new ventures "Ziraldo Ice Wine" and "Equifera Ice Wine". Ziraldo also mentioned pointing to a pile of large cement decorative pieces that looked as if they had been part of an archway. "Donald Triggs called me one day and said that he had remnants of the old London Winery and since I collected Art Deco would I be interested in it? I had it brought here for future use and now plan to build an entrance leading into the vineyard."
A mental picture of the majestic entrance as pictured on labels of "Chateau Leoville Marquis de Las Cas", the famous and very exceptional wine from the Bordeaux commune of St. Julien, came to my mind. I thought it very apropos that such a structure be erected on such reverent wine ground! Such a fitting way to end one chapter of a famous life and enter another using the same materials------the same venue!
This seemed a fitting end for our visit with Mr. Donald Ziraldo and "Two In A Vineyard's" filming venture in the Niagara Region. As our van turned the corner down Side Road 58, I reflected on the fact that this was a sentimental journey for me and some may have viewed this sentiment as being a bit "over the top". However in my defense, the words of late actor Jack Lemon came to my mind when he said; "When it comes to memories our biggest regrets are the risks we failed to take!"
Memories are our most important possessions and our risks, their greatest influence. Without either, life is not worth living. That old fruit shed had significance and that spot's future will inspire just as much! Well done Mr. Ziraldo!!!
A Bit About Roy and Sandie!
I could not end this blog without thanking Roy and Sandie who have packed their tooth brushes and accompanied me in this venture. Roy is an outstanding camera person and photographer whose sensitivity, initiative and instinct works hand in hand with Sandie's charm, personality and good looks. They both have made this and the Austria trips a true adventure.
They have also made my life a whole lot easier---calmly putting up with "lets do that one more time" or "Sandie----it's the 'Largest Privately Owned Winery not Largest Winery in Austria"!
Their suggestions and comments were always "right on" and our "off" time was as enjoyable as our work time (and vice/versa)!
Because of production schedules and demands, Sandie was "on deck" for all the interviews on this "shoot" and throughout, she proved herself a true pro. Donald Ziraldo made such a comment in an email to me quoting how "good and professional" she was as an interviewer. I must admit, she made it look easy.
Roy, on the other hand, made it possible for this whole venture to take place. Without him, there would be no "Two In A Vineyard" or any other series for that matter. I have heard from many that good camera persons "are all over the place!" Not so! Good camera persons that I can work with are rare! I am a great believer in doing your job and if you can't do it----get out of the way for someone who can! In this case one needs to trust and that comfort does not come easy. I trust Roy and choose to get out of his way when he is doing his job.
So, my heartfelt thanks to both Roy and Sandie for their assistance, patience and above all, their belief in this project...........and Sandie, you were right------!!! It's never that easy---!"----is it Mr. Byers?" Thank you both!!!

August 5th, Niagara Day Three: Malivoire, Daniel Lenko

2011-08-13T14:58:00.000-07:00

Last Breakfast At "House By The Side Of The Road"
There are worse things than to be awakened by a Gold Finch singing its tune like a Canary in a cage. The bird was just outside the sliding patio door on my room's balcony. The sky was blue and the Sun just about to shine. Everything outside was as still as silence. Lovely morning.
It was after 7 AM when i finally made it down to the dining area where Monika was busily cooking breakfast. Roy had "beaten me to the punch" and was already out taking "shots" of the Bed and Breakfast.
I sat down and had the delicious coffee and by the time I had finished the first cup, the morning meal was ready. Bacon, French toast, juice, home fries all were ready and delicious. This was our last day and the camaraderie of the previous night was still in our veins so to speak.

We bid our good-byes to Christine and Monika. However, this was not to be a good-bye but just a "See Yah Later" (Hey that would be a good name for a winery!!!LOL Tsk Tsk) since in reality I knew that we would be back in the future. We made good friends at this lovely "House By The Side Of The Road" and planned to return.

Malivoire

We then crossed the road and went to Malivoire with the initial intent of just taking a few pictures of this forward moving winery. We were not there long before we were approached by Stephen Gash, Director of Sales and Marketing of Malivoire. No doubt he had wondered who these people were, roaming around the vineyards and taking picture and camera shots. Once we introduced ourselves he "clicked-in" to the messages that I and Sandie had left.

Sandie and Stephen did an interview using the rows of vines ascending up the Malivoire hill as a background. They discussed the facts and advantages of going totally organic----in a sense going forward with wine by going back to nature. Harmony is a philosophy that is taught in Oriental Schools of Meditation and Martial Arts and to be harmonious with nature is to be in total sync with the Universe. At least that is the belief. In that case to be harmonious with nature by using only methods that encourage compatibility and synchronization with all inhabitants of a vineyard would certainly be apropos here. This is what Malivoire does. There are no artificial methods used in the propagating, cultivating and collecting of the vines. Everything is natural.

We then went into the "bug shaped"winery which many mention looks like the "ladybug" emblem that is depicted on some Malivoire labels and signs. Sandie, who had done a magnificent job interviewing on this trip, did so again by interviewing Stephen regarding Malivoire wines. They tasted and discussed several wines including my favourite-----the Malivoire Old Vines Foch, which was made from 30 year old Marechel Foch vines. They also discussed the use of "Stelvin" screw caps and why they were becoming one of the main closures on the market today. While I taught that the "Jury" was still out on any major conclusion it is a fact that the "corked" wine syndrome does not exist with closures of this type and the affect of the closures on the wine(s) seems negligible at this time. Could the wines age and develop as with cork closures, we can only find out for sure after older "Stelvin" capped wines are tested five, ten and twenty years from now. I felt that they will do well because I was and still am under the impression that minute bits of air still get in to slowly age the wine as happens with cork. Time will tell!!!

Speaking of time----we were starting to run late and Daniel Lenko was waiting very patiently for us! We bid our farewell and off we went down the road to Daniel Lenko Winery.

Daniel Lenko

Daniel Lenko came out of his barn to meet us. Tall, good looking with an athletic build, he looked more like a sportsman than a wine maker/grower. He is a third generation grape grower who took over the family farm in 1998. Daniel always wanted to make quality wine and with the assistance of two factors----- the oldest Chardonnay and Merlot vines in Canada which give an abundance of quality fruit and his very experienced winemaker, Thomas Laszlo-------he has achieved that.

Daniel runs a very "homey" style of winery. His tasting room is the kitchen of his house located in Beamsville. His well equipped barn serves houses his fermentation tanks and barrels and his vineyards produce the quality grapes. "What more can I ask for?", says Daniel to Sandie Kraft in the interview that she conducted during the visit.

Sandie, as usual, came up with some excellent probing questions as to the making of Lenko wines. All the wines are estate grown by Lenko. Due to the limited production levels, his wines are only sold at the winery and some select restaurants.

His wines include a super 2007 Unoaked Chardonnay and a very interesting label called Chardonngay which is a 2007 Unoaked Chardonnay specifically aimed at furthering AIDS research by not only directing attention onto Canada's diverse Gay population but also donating one dollar of every bottle sold to the cause. Other wines are a 2007 Riesling, 2007 Viognier, 2007 Meritage, 2007 Syrah and a 2007 Old Vines Merlot. His repertoire includes some Select Late Harvest Vidal and a Viognier Icewine. Also available is a small library of older (2006, 2005, 2006) wines as well as an interesting 2008 White Cabernet Rose.

We thanked Daniel for his generosity and for sharing his wines with us and then were off to our last visit---to where it all began----the original site of the Inniskillin Winery which by all accounts should be designated "Hallowed Ground" as the birthplace of Canada's Boutique Wine Industry.

That in itself is a separate and astounding story. Stay tuned!!!!!!!

August 4th, Niagara Day Two: Inniskillin, Olde Angel Inn, Queen's Landing, Cave Spring Cellars, B&B House By The Side Of The Road Party

2011-08-09T05:14:00.000-07:00

Waking Up To Country Living

The first night at the B&B, House By The Side Of The Road was a charm----peaceful, quiet, relaxing and very comfortable. I cleaned up and went to breakfast and met Christine's niece, Monika, who was cooking up a storm of great looking food. Monika was working at the "House" for the summer and was slated to go back to Amhurst University which she was attending on a basketball scholarship. You will have guessed that Monika was tall. Being 6'4" tall had its

advantages! Christine mentioned that in addition to being in shape to do the house work required, Monika could easily reach areas out of the way to more height challenged individual.

Monika was a lovely girl with a personality to match----intelligent, mature, respectful and

common-sensical. She seemed a true credit to her family. Oh one thing, her boyfriend was the same height so I wouldn't want to "cross" them in any way.

After a hearty breakfast of Italian sausage, scrambled eggs, home fries, great coffee and mango/orange juice we were off to our first stop, Inniskillin.

If it was correct to start with Jackson-Triggs the day before, it was doubly so to start the next day with Inniskillin. This was the winery that started it all. It was the winery that began the whole boutique winery and later Canadian wine revolution back in 1974. The story is now legend when Donald Ziraldo and Karl Kaiser obtained the first winery licence in almost forty years and did so taking great risks. But risk is the name of the game for someone like Messrs. Ziraldo and Kaiser and they made it work. Their winery became a massive hit and proved all the naysayers and detractors wrong. The experts said "It can't be done----you can't grow vinifera grapes in Ontario and make it work!!!!" Can't however was not in Ziraldo's vocabulary and he and Kaiser did it and did it well with their 1989 Vidal Icewine-----enough to win the Platinum Best Of Show Medal at VinExpo in 1991. This time it was other countries namely the French that gave credit where credit was do---and boy, did they give credit!!! This was the proverbial "wine shot" that was heard around the world and it is still sending reverberations because with that acknowledgement, Canada's wine industry took a flying leap forward and has not looked back.
Inniskillin has forged ahead and in addition to its massive high quality wine portfolio, it has become a culinary hot spot.
Sandy met with Executive Chef David Penny who we had already met at Jackson-Triggs. He introduced her to the "cool" vineyard smoker and discussed the use of local foods in cooking. David mentioned how he smoked whole pigs, fish, meats and matched them with wine dishes as well as his favourite----cooking with Ice Wine. David and Sandy discussed in detail usage of Ice wine in a variety of dishes. While watching this it occurred to me how Sandie has a way of making individuals feel quite comfortable while David seemed the perfect guest. His speaking voice was exceptionally clear and it was very apparent that David and the "film" camera were good friends. After the interview with David, Sandie went on to interview Head Winemaker, Bruce Nichols and Debi Pratt in the Vidal Ice wine vineyard. Surrounded by the Vidal grapevines full of maturing grapes, the award winning winemaker who made a majestic name for himself in the Okanagan Valley discussed several of his wines including: A Pinot Noir Rose, Three Vineyard Chardonnay, Three Vineyard Cabernet Franc and a Vidal Icewine. The Three Vineyards series are wines from three different vineyards and fermented separately with the best wines blended together to best express the terroir and character of the grapes. The Pinot Noir Rose is not made from inferior grapes that are not good for any other use but purposely made for the purpose of a great rose. Of course there was the Vidal Icewine. Icewine has been regarded as a particular forte of Bruce and the Vidal is no exception. After our meeting with Bruce and Debi in the vineyard, it was Debi's turn to go it alone, seated in a very comfortable chair located between the Inniskillin wine tasting area, the patio meeting centre and the vineyard.

Debi and I go back several years and she has proven to be one of the great strengths to not only Inniskillin but sister winery Jackson-Triggs as well. She is an amazing person that continues to exhibit great and positive influence on whomever she comes in contact with. I have certainly gained much respect for her and her abilities to the point that I often seek her counsel when I am "stuck" on a wine problem. She never fails.

Debbie discussed the philosophy and history behind Inniskillin as well as the changes over the years. She also mentioned of the hard work and risks that the initial owners took in coming up with Inniskillin. Visitors come and see the final product and have virtually no idea of what went on behind the scenes to produce the vibrant work that exists now.

After the interview, expertly conducted again by Sandie, we bid our adieu and l left for The Old Angel Inn.

The Old Angel Inn

Built in 1789 because of a land grant given to the deputy surveyor general, the Inn was the host of many a famous individual such as: John Graves Simcoe, Alexander MacKenzie, Prince Edward (Father of Queen Victoria) and Irish Poet Thomas Moore.

The Inn was rebuilt in 1815 as it was a victim of the War of 1812----burned down by American Troops in 1813. Another victim was a certain Captain Colin Swayzie. This British officer delayed meeting his troops so he could meet his female friend but was found out and killed by the invading force. Strange things started to happen at the Inn around 1820 and have continued on to this day.

Staff at the Inn have been hit by flying objects and have had doors "push" back at them with no one seemingly on the other end. Visitors staying in one of the rooms have awakened in the early morning hours to find all the water taps in the washroom turned on. They turned them off but awoke again to find them "on" again. This does not even take into account the number of people who "felt" presences around them. And what would one say if he/she awoke to boisterous laughing and other noise at three am and only to find the building locked up tight? That happened to some guests.

While the Inn certainly had an interesting history, the original decor with three gas fireplaces for a nice warm mood----especially on those cool Fall and Winter eves------and witty dialogue on doors was truly supreme. The atmosphere in the Inn was great but the best thing was the food, wine and selection of 24 types of draft beers. I could certainly attest for the quality and amount of food that was provided guests (as can Sandie and Roy). The five rooms available to guests with en suite bathrooms and period beds were quite lovely. They were aptly named with "special meaning" concerning the Inn itself: Colonel's Suite, Generals Quarters, Governor's Room, Captain's Room and Sweethearts' Room. One thing, Captain Swayze is not a malevolent spirit. He is just a little prankster as long as -----as the legend goes----the Union Jack remains on the flag post. If it's taken down----what will happen? Does one want to find out?

With our bellies full of fish and chips plus a pint of draft, we went onto Queen's landing. Our thanks to Stephanie, Jean, Tim, Phil and all the staff for a great and informative stay!!!

Queen's Landing
We were met at Queen's Landing by Lily Kszan, General Manager of the hotel and Laura Stoner, Marketing Coordinator. I was impressed by their professionalism and their open hospitality. I was also very impressed that they both did their homework on both me and the television series. I couldn't help feeling that Queen's Landing and its parent company of Vintage Inns was very well represented and looked after!!!!!

The large Georgian Mansion that was situated on Byron Street in Niagara On The Lake

was/is one the town's (and Ontario's) most elegant residences. Built in 1990 on a property that was once "The Old Niagara Harbour and Dock Company (1831) it was designed in the style of Kings George 1st through 4th. The Dockmaster's house one of Niagara's historical landmarks and which dates back to the early 19th Century has been historically restored. With a staircase that cried for "Gone With The Wind' and an entrance that displayed marbled floors and stained glass ceilings the mansion was a true showpiece.Just being there was enough yet there is so much more.

The location was what Romance is made of. Located where the Niagara River and Lake Ontario converge, the best of both worlds was/is truly consummated. Here one could have a romantic interlude and/or do business. The Mansion reeked class in its spacious high ceilings, huge beds, lovely en suites, magnificently decorated halls with marble, carpet, frescoes, paintings and sculptures that would make any palace or museum jealous.

In addition to all this was the wine cellar that was temperature controlled and with wines from all over the globe and the dining areas where one could dine formally at the Tiara Restaurant which specialized in French Cuisine, casual dining at the Bacchus Lounge or light fare at the Waterfront Patio where one can meet friends and look our over the boat docks towards the panoramic view of the river. In all, Queen's Landing was truly an experience for us all. A big thank you to Lily and Karen for their gracious assistance.

Cave Spring Cellars

I remember my first meeting with Angelo Pavan and Len Pennachetti in the late 1980's (circa 1988) when they were at the York Mills Plaza at the intersection of Bayview and York mills. They were introducing their new wines which happened to be a 1986 Riesling. Somewhere I have the empty bottles with their signatures on them and if I find them I will make sure to give them back as a memento.

This meeting started a love affair between me and Cave Spring Cellars which for awhile developed into a business relationship whereby I filmed them for my series Wine Companions and Wine Dining as well as brought tour buses to the locale. My memory takes me back to the construction of the restaurant and inn as well as the old winery which used to have a different entrance.

While a few years would go by between visits, Ange and I always kept in touch and today was no different. I have always looked on Ange as more than a friend so whenever I did a series, article or tour, Cave Spring has always been in my thoughts----and actions.

The one thing that has always got me regarding Cave Springs was that while at other wineries you hear about the soil and the rocks and the drainage, at Cave Springs all you have to do is walk up to the escarpment next to the vineyard, jump across the little spring that emanates from the caves and then-----you are in it. You see the rocks both giant and little. You see the drainage and you know that what is above ground is also underneath it. No wonder Len Pennachetti's grandfather bought the land in the 1920's and then furthered the families grape history by planting grapes there. Little wonder that Len decided to grow European varietals in the late 70's.

Between them. Angelo the "Philosophical Winemaker", Len the "Visionary Viticulturist" and Tom the "Pragmatic Marketer" changed a group of dilapidated buildings into what is now a bustling and dynamic village-----Jordan Village with its art shops, flower nurseries, Inn on the Twenty, On The Twenty Restaurant, Antique Shop, Wine Boutique and of course winery.

We arrived later in the afternoon and met Angelo just outside the meeting room where a meeting was going on regarding the winery. Gracious as ever, he withdrew from the meeting to give us a tour and interview concerning his winery. Sandie interviewed him as he moved from the boutique to the cellars below where he explained why this vineyard of Cave Spring was the best location of all the wineries in Niagara. It had to do with air flow and lake influence but I am not going to try to explain it here. Angelo did a much better job on camera. Sandie and Angelo then moved up to the boutique where he brought out his wines for a tutored tasting. Once could see the passion still in his face as he described the Chardonnay, Riesling, Pinot Noir, Gamay and Sparkling Blancs de Blancs Traditional Method wine. I have always admired Angelo for this and I am sure that he would say, "It's not just me but every winemaker is passionate about his wine!" However, Angelo's passion and capability has always rang true. I purchase a bottle of "Blanc de Noirs" Traditional Method Sparkling with plans of having with my two companions and friends that evening. With that we ended our stay at Cave Spring Cellars and Jordan. Angelo, being the consummate host, brought over several bottles for us to taste later. Thanks Ange and hopefully next time I'm around, I'll get a chance to pay my respects to Len also.
Cave Spring Cellars Vineyard
We then went to the actual Cave Spring Vineyard which was a few kilometres West of the winery and Jordan proper. After taking some general pictures, we drove to the foot of the escarpment and Sandie did an segment on the twenty-five year old vines while I, knowing that the segment was in very capable hands, decided to scout for picture locations. What I found was utterly amazing.
I crossed the little stream (more like jumped across) and after fighting my way through a tangle of tall weeds, found myself in a prehistoric looking scene with huge rocks ascending up to great heights. All around me was moss covered rock as the twilight of the day tried to shine through the cover of trees. Not an inch of the ground was left uncovered by all shapes and sizes of the Dolomite limestone. Being a rock collector for my fishpond back home, I found a nice moss covered flat piece that would make a great addition to the back yard. Due to the obstacles in the way, I concluded that it was not worth the risk of falling with the camera and equipment thus damaging our chances for finishing our project so discretion being the better part of valour, I decided to leave this ancient site and go back to the group.
As sloshed across the stream and entered the land of the sun once more, I could see vultures in the air and wondered what was happening since most of the time one sees hawks. Nothing seemed out of the ordinary. I went back to Sandie and Roy who were packing the cameras in the truck and then we were off----first to take more pictures of Greenland Estates and then to a grocery store to buy our dinner. That night we had decided, was going to be a finger food and cold cut night.
We arrived back at the House By The Side Of The Road around 6 PM and immediately put the bottles we obtained into the cooler for later. A shower and change was definitely in order and then Sandie, who had purchased the food, prepared it on a table while Roy and I opened the goods. We joined Christine McAlpine and her friend Carol, on the veranda.
The night turned into a great party where discussion flowed as easily as the wine. Christine shared her Greenlane Estate Greetings Cabernet/Merlot Red with us. The wine was excellent with Blackberry, currant and raspberry flavours that had some great anise spice along for the ride. Sandie and I committed local sacrilege by opening up a Rosemount Estate Shiraz from Australia which was juicy with spice, plum, cherry and chocolate and a California Cline Syrah which was quite good with pepper, plum/cherry/black berry flavours with a touch of vanilla, mocha and coffee notes. However, We redeemed ourselves by opening up the Blanc de Noirs from Cave Spring Cellars. The wine was absolutely marvelous. Powerful with a myriad of flavours that hit the senses with strawberry, citrus, hazelnut and a general nuttiness on the finish that lasted and lasted. The food and wine matched well and what food! Goat cheese, kielbasa, ham, crusty bread, mortadella, strawberries---it was a feast!
The evening went very well and soon it was time to give our eyes and taste buds a rest. Tomorrow was another day and much to do. We cleaned up and turned in!!!!!

Epiloque: Austria-----A Country On The Edge Of Forever!

2011-08-06T04:33:00.000-07:00

The Passion! The Pride! The Reason! The Being!
Wine has never, ever been a matter of just being a beverage to me! If it were, it would hold little interest other than the immediate gratification of the organoleptic senses. Of course for many who toil at studying, cultivating, blending, crafting, packaging, marketing, writing, eating, sleeping, living eventually dying in partnership this wonderfully philosophical ---and psychological beverage it is a way of life---maybe life incarnate!
Everyone has a reason for taking up the wine banner. For most I think it is the combination of every aspect that is human that attracts most. We all have history! We all live geographically! We create and are part of a culture! Most of all we belong to a world of people!
In every way, Austria represents all that is good about the world of wine and people. The country is a time capsule of history! It is also a compact representation of world topography and social geography----where cultures collide and people interact.
Like every other part of the planet, I am sure that there are the undesirable aspects but for every one of those there are a dozen Tibors that ingratiate themselves to visitors and residents alike.
Austria is a breath of fresh European air that expels the stale molecules and replacing them with vibrant energy. Its wine reflects this in its freshness and consistency. Whichever wine one tries wherever one goes, the aspect of freshness and integration reflect the area that they come from. It is so with the culture, history and people.
It was the pleasure of Two In A Vineyard to visit this amazing land with its magnificent geography and lengthy history. The value of a trip is summed up by what is left and what is taken back. I am sure that part of us was left in Austria with those with whom we interacted. Conversely, so much was brought back that in a way we always remain touched----part of that great land.
Two In A Vineyard would like to thank and acknowledge the following individuals and groups for their assistance in making this production possible:
Mr. Robert Luck, Austrian Consulate General, Commercial Section
Birgitta Samavarchian, Austrian Consulate General, Commercial Section
The Austrian Wine Marketing Board, Mr. Willi Klinger
The Austrian Wine Academy, Dr. Josef Schuller, MW
Esterhazy Palace
Schloss Hoff
Szigeti Sparkling Wines
Gottweig Abbey
Kloster UND and Toni Moerwald
Domaine Wachau, Castle Durnstein
Weinkulturhaus, Gols
Restaurant Nyikospark
Loisium
Restaurant Jamek
Klosterneuburg: Provost Bernhard Backovsky, Dr. Wolfgang Hamm
Wein & Co.
Wiener Riesenrad
Mayer am Pfarrplatz
Hotel am Konzerthaus, Wien
Pannonia Tower Hotel, Parndorf, Neusiedl am See
Hotel Rathaus, Wien
Genuss Hotel, Riegersburg
Steigenberger Hotel, Krems
Arte Hotel, Krems
Wirtshaus im Moserhof Hotel
Wineries of Vienna (Wien)
Wineries of Burgenland
Wineries of Kamptal
Wineries of Kremstal
Wineries of Wachau
Wineries of Weinviertal
Wineries of Styria
Wineries of Traisental
Wineries of Carnuntum
A Big Thankyou to the Government and People of Austria!!!

August 3rd:Two In A Vineyard Goes Niagara: Day One

2011-08-03T19:47:00.000-07:00

A New Adventure Begins!
Lunch and Tasting at Jackson-Triggs Winery
With the Austrian adventure under our belts, a totally Canadian production seemed in order. Our tour started early on Tuesday morning which saw us off to Niagara. The trip up was basically uneventful all the way to Jackson-Triggs winery. Located within five minutes of the town of Niagara-on-the-Lake, the ultra modern and energy efficient winery designed to look like a barn from the outside is the showpiece of Niagara-----and it is an amazing innovative showpiece!
This winery started its life in 1993 as a brand name for Vincor--then a Canadian company under the direction of Donald Triggs and Allan Jackson. A state of the art winery with the same name was built later under. Jackson-Triggs is now under the Vincor ownership of Constellation.
We arrived at Jackson-Triggs at around noon and mere met by Public Relations Manager and my close friend for years---Debi Pratt. Two other individuals that I had much pleasant history with were Del Rollo, National Director of Hospital for Vincor and Stacey Mulholland, Regional Manager of Hospitality, Eastern Estates. A lunch matched with wine had been prepared by Executive Chef, David Penny. David, all 6'6' of him could have easily become an actor with rugged good looks and an excellent speaking voice. His talents definitely flowed into the cooking realm as the food her prepared was delicious.
The Lunch Meal
Lunch started with Golden Beet Soup and Fresh Chive Cream matched with a 2010 Silver Series Sauvignon Blanc. An excellent match--- matching the herbal/apricot/citrus qualities of the wine with the soup.
The Heirloom Tomato Salad withe Ontario Buffalo Mozzarella/Purple Basil/Olive Oil went very well with the 2009 Proprietors' Reserve Sparkling Cuvee Close (Charmat as compared to Classique). It showed the remarkable diverseness of sparkling wines which are really limited in their use as a food wine.
Jackson Triggs Ham and Cheese Sandwich with Smoked Vidal "Canadian Bacon/Upper Canada Haloumi/Icewine Mustard was the final course and matched with 2008 Le Clos Jordanne Village Reserve Pinot Noir---a wine that speaks for itself and an amazing food wine with dishes as the above and also a large number of other food items.
Sandie interviewed David Penny about his career and work at Jackson Triggs.
J/T Amphitheatre
The amphitheatre was built some time after the winery was built but looks like it always was there. Very original in its design, it also had amazing acoustics which did not need the use any sound enhancing device.
Del Rollo was interviewed on stage by Sandie and he discussed his position and career with the Jackson Triggs and Vincor Company. Del as usual was very modest only talked about his important and very responsible position with the company when prodded . However, it did not take much to find out how important his work responsibility was.
The Amphitheatre itself is of Greco-Roman design and is an open air theatre made up of a central slightly elevated stage and surrounded by ascending rock seating arranged in a semi-circular format with up to twelve to fifteen rows and capable of holding up to 700 people.
Many of Canada's best entertainers have performed at the Jackson-Triggs Amphitheatre whose 2011 Concert Series will feature such acts as Serena Ryder, Sam Roberts, Spirit of the West and Gord Downie.
After the interview, Del had to get on with his business and Chef David Penny gave us a tour of his wine garden which was planted immediately in front of the winery. It was then time to go down to the wine barrel cellar and meet Marco Piccoli, the head winemaker at Jackson-Triggs. Here the topic was sparkling wines and Jackson-Triggs' new product made in the classical vein was discussed. Entourage Silver Series Brut Methode Classique is a sparkling wine that is very reminiscent of Champagne. Made in the same method, the final product is fine lasting bubbles, full flavours of apple, nuts, pineapple, citrus and mineral. Marco discussed the making of the wine. Marco also introduced the Jackson-Triggs Entourage Gold Series Sparkling Merlot and Sparkling Sauvignon Blanc offer the characteristics of the grape varieties plus the fine bubbles and toastiness that comes with a Methode Classique wine.
Greenlane Estates Winery
After our visit to Jackson Triggs we went back to the "Bench" along South Service Road to visit Greenlane Estates Winery. The winery itself is a small boutique winery which started out as Birchwood Estates Winery back in 1999/2000. Winery President, Sommelier and self professed "Wine Geek" Robert Paul met us and introduced us to his lovely wine maker Diane Smith.
Robert told us that he worked in the trade for many years and always wanted to own a winery. He also knew that the winery had a reputation for good fruit production and had a good soil structure that had excellent drainage and rocky soil that retained heat.
Greenlane produces premium quality Greenlane Estate Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Riesling and Cabernet Sauvignon. It also produces some "second label" wines (Greetings) from sourced Ontario grapes combined with those of Greenlane.
Winemaker Diane Smith introduced herself and tutored a wine tasting of the Premium Estate Wines along with Barrel samples. All had great fruit and a special minerality that was superb.
Diane, who has degrees from Brock University, became interested in wine and furthered her studies culminating in a BA degree in Biology from South Florida University and Viticulture/Winemaking from Niagara College. Diane practice with many well known wineries in various parts of the globe as well as Ontario. She is also well known advocate of Toronto Animal Rescue, SPCA and Diabetes Foundation. She also makes delicious wines! The practice at Greenlane, under Diane's supervision, is totally organic and bio dynamic.
Robert Paul knew of our plans to visit Prince Edward Island and made a very interesting point was that when doing the legal research for the name "Greenlane", he found that the only challenge that could be made was the house of "Green Gables" of novel fame. He obviously was in the clear to use the "Greenlane" credential.
The day was fast coming to a close so we decided to head back to our Bed and Breakfast called "The House By The Side Of The Road"
"The House", located across Highway 81 from Malivoire Winery was outstanding and one of the nicest B&B's that I have ever stayed in. Roy and Sandie were absolutely thrilled with it also. The new building was built on the site and foundation of an much older establishment. The design is intricate and the display magnificent. Each room is themed accurately to the very last detail all the rooms with excellent views of the spacious garden, Tawse Vineyards and countryside. A spacious veranda surrounds the house and encourages relaxation and discussion. Each of the rooms has a bathroom en suite and is immaculate. Here, cleanliness is the rule and service the smile. There is also a "Spa" in the lower area and an entertainment area complete with a seven foot screen television!!!
The best thing about the place was its owner, Christine McAlpine. This former nurse is a gregarious genuine and generous individual who is a pleasure to be around. Christine went out of her way to make us feel at home and -------we did.
The group of us went to a local diner for supper and then returned to have a sip of wine and sit at the back----enjoying each others' company. It was a great way to start the tour and we know that more good things were to come.

June 5th: Back In Vienna and our last day!

2011-07-31T07:21:00.000-07:00

Vienna-----A City Forever Eternal!
Stadtpark
We slept in that morning just enough to rest up after our long trip back to Vienna. We were to meet Tini for a quick tour of the city and taking a page from the "Book of Tibor" she was right on time for our meeting at the Konzerthaus Hotel. First we went to Stadtpark approaching it from Ringstrasse. It was Sunday and it was great to see that people in this part of the world still celebrated the day with relaxation and fun things. Here it was still a day for families to be together and for children to play and lovers to spend time. We were greeted by a statue monument of Johann Strauss in full musical form and in golden regalia. How appropriate I felt this was. We could not help but take a few shots of us with the master and then moved along through the shady and tree filled park.
It seems that humans will be humans and people watching seemed to be as interesting a past time here as it would be at the St. Lawrence Market in Ontario. People seated on benches watched others waking, laying on the lawn either sleeping, reading or just kissing. Very exhilarating!!
It also seemed that people also preferred to make their own dress statements as some had on very eccentric forms of dress-----the most of which was a man with a cage type hat and feathered female attire sitting on the bench enjoying the day and being pleased to be somewhat the centre of attention.
There was so much to take in with ponds, flower garden arrangements, themes, musical pavilions, dancing areas and the ever present statues and monuments. We could have walked for hours. Of course, Sandie and I hammed it up for the camera and Roy enjoyed himself taking shots and laughing at us making nutty fools of ourselves. I loved it!
Lunch On The Danube
We made our way down to the Danube where we followed the river looking for some places to park ourselves and eat. We settled on a man made beach area next to the river which had some "buffet" specialties where we filled our selves to full capacity. Everywhere was quiet activity and the Danube----well it was the Danube-----Eternally Romantic!!!!
War Memorials And Geyser Fountains
After lunch we made our way to the Konzerthaus Hotel where we said good-bye to Tini and decided to just walk around on our own until supper. We found ourselves spending a fair bit of time at the Soviet War Memorial with its Greek Doric Columns and sombre atmosphere. There was a large fountain that shot water very high into the air that was very impressive. I later found out that the fountain called the Hochstrahlbrunnen was not related to the Soviet structure but was built in 1873 to celebrate the first water pipeline to Vienna from the Styrian Alps.
As the day wore on we realized that no matter what we did, we could not slow time down and eventually like the rain, darkness would fall and the day would end. Sandie kept herself busy looking at all the amazing cars----all top of the line Mercedes, Jaguars and Ferrari's and taking their pictures. Roy filmed and took pictures and I took in the atmosphere wishing that this could last forever.
We had dinner at the Konzerthaus Hotel that evening and decided to eat in the outdoor patio area. We were alone at dinner together for the first time since we started the trip and ordered a fine meal for ourselves. As we sat there, talking, eating and enjoying our beverages, I couldn't help looking at the two people next to me and feeling how important they had become to me. We had done a great deal and the great thing was that we would continue to do so long after this trip would end.
We retired to our rooms and prepared for the eventful trip back to Canada.
Surprise
The morning came quickly and soon packing was done and baggage was in the hotel foyer ready to be picked up. Then came a delightful surprise, Tibor came over on his morning run to say good-bye. I should have expected it. Tibor was/is a very special person who all of us will remember for a long time. I am equally sure that Tini, given time would have proved just as terrific. Tibor did the usual Tibor thing and took our luggage to the waiting vehicle. Then just like Tibor he bid farewell and continued his run. I watched as his running form slowly disappeared into the crowd until it could not be seen. I remarked to myself, "What a truly amazing young lad!"
Shortly thereafter we found ourselves in the airport lineup and just as quickly, on the flight home. Was it real? Did it really happen? As the back of my head rested on the seat pillow I asked myself those questions, it felt so surreal.
We landed in Toronto eight hours later and to my surprise, after spending ten very busy and active days together with the exception of sleeping-----almost always together, Sandie. Roy and I were planning our next venture. Did we get along----I guess that says statement says it all!!!!!

June 4th, Day Four: Meeting Two Greats: Willi Opitz and Toni Moerwald

2011-07-09T20:42:00.000-07:00

Morning At Riegersburg

One knows that his sleep was good when no sooner than his eyes close at night; they open in the morning and all the "in-between" is a void. I awoke to hear more birds uttering their chants of attention. This time is was the Cuckoos with their familiar passage and the "thumping" sound of male ruffled grouse out for their morning mating ritual. I went out to the balcony and looked at the castle distantly majestic, dominant yet subservient----high above the landscape but somehow melding into it at the same time. The stories it could tell, I thought to myself. My eyes left the serene scene and looked at the time. We had a long way to go and it was an early breakfast so I had to hurry.

The Genuss staff had made us breakfast early since they knew we had to leave as such. The buffet breakfast was delicious and the bread was divine. As usual, it was the coffee I sought. My one addiction that I would give my all for--------a good cup of coffee------and the coffee was good!!!!!

We were soon on our way to meet a man that was as overwhelming with his marketing charm as was the countryside we were leaving. We said goodbye to Styria and Riegersburg and were off to Burgenland------back to Neusiedlersee and the lake we once crossed. Back to a town called Illmitz and a marketing genius called Willi Opitz!
Meeting Willi Opitz

Life Is Too Short To Waste It On Bad Wine! (Quote from the "Book of Opitz")

In 1995 Willi Opitz changed occupations from that of a mechanical engineer working for a food company to that of a wine maker and owner of what was to become not only a great winery but also a massive national lesson in marketing. However, Willi's story goes back to 1989 when he perfected a process of drying grapes on reed mats thus accentuating the sugar content within grapes and then pressing them for wine. Willi called this process "Schilfmandel".

If You Are First, You Are Never Late! (Quote from the "Book of Opitz")

It was in the year of 1995 that Willi began to make an impact regarding Austrian Wine. He became the first/only Austrian producer to start a partnership with the McLaren Formula One Racing Team. Also in 1995 he produced a "musical recording" called the "Sound of Wine" where by he recorded the sounds of wine fermenting. Then in 1996 he completed the series of firsts by being awarded "Winemaker of the Year" in London, England.

This Is Not A Wine Tasting But A Life Changing Experience! ("Book of Opitz")

Willi mentioned that after one of his tastings, a client said the above words. It seemed to me that the words were a "Double Edged Sword" as this whole experience has been as life changing for Willi as it is those who had the luck to be present at his wine and food matching sessions and dinners. The only difference here Willi is none other that a self fulfilled prophecy gone very good!

Willi capitalized on every marketing venture be it a meeting with President William Clinton after he gave him a case of his botrytis affected and reed dried (from Lake Neusiedlersee) Zweigelt Wine called very aptly, "Mr. President" or having famous Chef Anton Mosimann or even having his wines praised by Jancis Robinson!The names go on: Rod Stewart, Elton John, Prince Charles, The McLaren Team and more---many more!! The man was and is a marketing genius and a shrewd business person.
I Started In 1995 With No Money And No Fear! ("Book of Opitz")
At around 11 AM, We arrived at St. Bartholomausgasse 18 Illmitz where the Weingut Willi Opitz was located. It was a relatively long ride and we had an even longer ride to go as right after Willi we were to head first to Vienna and then to Kremstal where we were to meet famous Chef Toni Moerwald at his restaurant, Kloster UND.
Tibor, ever aware of our "race against time" was getting nervous about being late almost as soon as we got to the winery. We did our best to calm him but Tibor, ever conscientious, could not be swayed. Willi sat us at his upstairs balcony/patio where he brought out a very refreshing Sparkling Pinot Noir. He named this wine after one of his daughter's, Victoria. The wine was pleasant, well made and oh!---so refreshing---especially on a warm day such as the one we were experiencing. We met two of Willi's friends who also shared the wine with us.
It was then that George Shao, Willi's China representative came in----just arriving from China. I took an immediate liking to George with is lay back style and genuineness of personality. George told us that Opitz wines were selling like "hotcakes" and that he was here to place another order for these wines----especially Opitz One, the Willi Opitz flagship where it was selling for as much as $400 per bottle.
Willi, ever charming, met and escorted us to his winery which from the outside looked like a large garage building but on the inside it was a marvel. First of all, I immediately felt the coolness within the winery. It wasn't air conditioning but fifteen inches of top insulation around the entire building that kept the building so very cool compared with the 25 Centigrade plus conditions outside.
Inside the winery were the usual barrels but in this case many of them were signed by some of the most famous individuals. Barrels with signatures from the McLaren Formula One team, Rod Stewart and just the previous day, Anton Mosimann fresh from cooking a meal for the newly wed William and Kate, Duke and Duchess of Cambridge. Anton is renowned as one of the best chefs in the World.
Here Willi introduced us to his "energy efficient" bottling line. If he was a master marketer, he proved himself ingenious in his construction of a wooden bottle holder which allowed him to manually place corks and labels on his wine bottles. He also showed us his new improved and faster bottling line which consisted of "two' such items.
On to the tasting room we went and he then put us through a food and wine tasting that had no equal. The hors d'oeuvres style food was cooked by his daughter Angela in conjunction with her partner Iain with a company name that reflected good marketing and both their names by guess who---Willi Opitz---called: C.I.A. (for Catering by Iain and Angela) with the caption "Criminally Good Food". The matches were unique such as: Fish, Chips and Mushy Peas matched with a dry Gewurztraminer; Fillet of Beef with Butternut Risotto matched with a Zweigelt Reserve; Boudin of Braised Pork, Red Onion Marmalade and Mustard Ice with Silver Lake Pinot Cuvee and last but certainly not least Rose and Wild Berries Granite with an Opitz Pink Kiss Pinot Noir.
The tasting lasted much longer than Tibor wished. He sniffed his way through the wine tasting match not wanting to drink and drive and was ever sensitive of "how late it was getting". I think my chorus of "Don't Worry!!" might still be echoing in his mind. To his absolute horror, Willi said let me show you the vineyards! I thought that Tibor was going to soil his pants when he heard that.
Willi took us to his vineyard near Lake Neusiedlersee where they enjoyed the moderating effects of the body of water. Willi mentioned his organic farming which bordered on the bio dynamic though he was not certified as such. His original 8 hectares of vine now is around 17 and he produces around 60,000 bottles of wine per year."That is enough," he said. You could tell that the vineyards were well tended and in very good health.
With the vineyards our trip to Willi Opitz's winery ended and Tibor at long last got us moving in the right direction------some three hours late but all in good spirits. The long trip to Vienna and later to Krems began.
The drive back to Vienna was another "double edged sword" since Sandie, Roy and I were fascinated with this marvelous city so full of wonder. However, on getting there, we would have to say good-bye to our companion, confidante and driver, Tibor. We had met him only nine days prior but it seemed a lifetime and his company was very, very comforting to have around. We became very fond of him.
Alas, Vienna came up faster than we wanted and Tibor found that in spite of all his worry, we got there on time. His replacement was a young girl of 24 called Tini---short for Christina. If Tibor was slim in build, Tini was his female counterpart. Tall, athletic and personable, Tini seemed the right counterpart to Tibor. Even their names seemed similar.
Soon we were off to Krems and a meeting with the great chef and business man, Toni Moerwald.
The World of Moerwald
If it were just for the fact that Toni Moerwald has written 26 cookbooks, that would have been considered a massive achievement however, add to that a string of famous hotels, restaurants , cooking schools and vineyards and you find a man who is the pinnacle of success. The question I had in my mind was how could a man have achieved so much and yet look so good and relaxed. Toni does not come close to looking his forty something age. How can a person achieve so much in so little time?? Maybe the questions should be how come many people don't?
Our "new" team made its way to Krems which is in many ways a crossroads. Located on the River Danube, Krems lies on routes that link the Alps, Carpathian Mountains, old cultures and historic avenues. Within Krems lies an area known as UND which is recognized as a separate municipal entity within the larger Krems. Within UND is Kloster Und, a 400 plus year old Monastery turned restaurant now under the banner of the famous Moerwald name. Famous people come here. Arnold Schwarzenegger and Frank Stronach are among the many well known people who visit frequently.
Within its walls can be seen the magnificent courtyard complete with cloister and fountain. The restaurant and lounge have all the comforts including a superb wine list that would make any New York, London or Paris restaurant jealous. On top of all this is a top of the line kitchen and cooking school where Toni proudly shows his staff and students from all over the world.
Here is where we came to interview this high achiever. It was amazing that he had the time to do so.
We were seated in the courtyard where Imperial gatherings used to happen. Toni brought us some superb wine from his own vineyard (a Muskateller) and then proceeded to show us around the kitchen. We then sat and began an interview. It took me several attempts to get the correct pronunciation of Moerwald much to the amusement of Sandie who earlier on had been the focus of my teasing with some of her stuff. "Not so easy Mr. Byers! Is it!" were the words and we all laughed. Interplay such as this was so important on this trip since a trip without humour-----especially when so much time is spent with one another-----can be dreary at best. Luckily we were in sync with each other.
I finally got it right and I was pestering Toni to teach me how to cook a dish for the camera. He misunderstood and made us a dish to eat. It was a long day and I did not pursue the situation.
We got our interview with one of the most famous chefs in Austria if not the globe and that was enough. At the end of it all, Toni awarded me a cook book with many of his dishes. It was huge and I wondered how I could pack it since it must have weighed about five to seven pounds at least. We bid adieu to Toni and then were off to our place of rest, which was a Five Star Krems hotel called, Steigenberger.
Later on we got the hunger pangs and went out to eat in down town Krems. We went to a place called Cafe Brauhof where we had three excellent dishes along with some excellent Austrian Beer. After spending the major part of a day drinking wine, beer does have that refreshing taste.
My mainstay beverage, coffee, was of course part of my meal. What would I do without a coffee.
We discussed the day and couldn't believe that we did so much. After walking around the town, Sandman raised his head once again and the hotel looked----oh so good!------especially a thing called bed.

June 3: Going Wild In Styria

2011-06-29T06:29:00.001-07:00

Morning At Wirtshaus Moserhof
The morning was advanced by a plethora of bird sounds which preceded the first ray of sunshine by about an hour. I am late to sleep and early to rise---have always been and will probably so stay--- the cheerful chants made by my aviary friends was welcome. As light emerged, I went out on the balcony that overlooked the expansive horizon and marveled at the beauty of the landscape. In addition to the bird sounds could be heard the other sounds of country: roosters crowing, dogs barking, the odd barnyard noise and the distant rustle of farm machinery being primed. What a difference from the night before! The dark had indeed turned to light. The ominous had become sanctified. The foreboding was now elation! I thought of a song----the hills were indeed alive with the sound of music.
A quick breakfast and we bed adieu to the Moserhof and we were off to visit our first winery.

Weingut Armin Polz-Keifer

Heading down towards Weingut Erich-Walter Polz we came upon an interesting scene. It was what seemed to be a pleasant farm scene just next to a cottage style winery with ducks waddling around chasing one another and a large dog seemingly standing guard watching the goings on. A couple was sitting just outside the main door apparently enjoying the day. We stopped to take a picture of the scene and ended up talking to the young couple.

Armin and Ida Polz-Keifer were an absolutely charming couple that owned the Weingut and the Gasthaus where people could stay and be treated to a unique and relaxing farm/winery/vineyard experience complete with meals and hospitality.

The brief encounter left us feeling very energized at having had the fortune to "stumble' on this prize scene. We took our film 'footage' and were then off to our major destination.

Weingut Erich-Walter Polz

Not far from Armin and Ida's winery was Weingut Erich-Walter Polz. It seemed a larger operation that the previous winery with a fully functional restaurant, patio, boutique and even a vineyard "under glass" complete with fully formed grapes. Keep in mind that while the weather in Styria was a full month ahead of those vineyards in upper North America, the grapes on the vines were still in their formative bunches.
We were met by Marketing Manager Peter Keller who undid all stops to make us comfortable and give us information. First he treated us to a magnificent lunch made up of local dishes matched with the Polz wines. He then proceeded to describe the operation and the wines with great detail----later taking us on a tour of several vineyards and the winery. Finally, he arranged a "photo shoot" outside, in front of the winery. Bringing out some large bottles, he made sure that the "shots" were perfect. That was a good way of describing Peter. He was obviously one who sought perfection and demanded it. Nothing he did seemed extraneous as all his actions were purposeful and precise.
The winery was founded in 1912 and is looked on as somewhat of a "trail blazer" in the area. They were the first to move from a mass production status to quality products. The vineyards are planted with both white (Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay/Morillon, Rheinriesling, Muskateller, and Pinot Blanc) and red grapes (Cabernet, Pinot Noir, Zweigelt and Blaufrankisch). These innovators also helped organize the first national association of grape production in the late '90's. The Polz's also own major holdings in neighboring country of Slovenia.
From a point overlooking some of the Polz vineyards, Peter pointed to a peninsula shaped group of trees and bushes jutting in between the vineyards. "That clump of trees is Slovenia," he said.
We ended our visit with a toast of Polz Sauvignon Blanc which was superb with its fruit forward nose and equally fruit driven taste.
Weingut Willi Sattler
Sattlerhof consists of three main vineyards: Kranachberg, Seranauberg and Pfarrweingarten. The Kranachberg consisting of mainly chalky soil is planted mainly of Sauvignon Blanc. The Seranauberg with its sandy/gravel soil has mainly Sauvingnon Blanc and Chardonnay (called Morillon in Austria). Pfarrweingarten with its shell and coral/limestone structure is very suitable for and planted with Burgundian style vines. Pfarrweingarten has been rented from the Catholic Church by the Sattlers for a long time and some cases of fine wine go to it as part of the rent. The Pfarrweingarten has mainly Pinot Blanc and Morillon (Chardonnay) but does have one special bottling of Sauvignon Blanc Pfarrweingarten that goes to an Austrian retailer called Gottardi.
Willi Sattler says that the the vineyard/farm has been with the family since 1887. On meeting Willi one gets the impression that he is dealing with an wrestler of sorts. His compact 5'10" frame and stance were certainly reminiscent of such. He introduced us to his son Andreas. While Willi delivered the initial introduction to the winery, Andreas picked up the gauntlet and became more passionate as he related the history and structure of Sattlerhof. We were given a tour of the winery, hotel which is run by Hannes Sattler who is also the chef.
Willi went on to describe how the three different soils in he vineyards made three different types of wine. One which is fruit driven and spicy, one which is mineral and the other that is typical Burgundian.
We went out to examine the vineyards. The vineyards themselves are very steep and a 60 degree angle of slope was about right---ranging from a height of 500 metres to 325 metres. Travelling through the vineyard in Willi's Mercedes Four Wheel Drive Vehicle, we attempted up a steep incline almost at the surface. The night before had been a stormy/rainy one so it crossed my mind that the vineyard could be a bit problematic. I was correct. In spite the magnificent vehicles design and power, the slippery slope almost became our undoing.
The vehicle encountered difficulty in trying to get to the summit but the "grip" was not there and it floundered. Looking down I could see the steep slope that we were on and getting out would have met with some problems. The bottom of the hill was a long, long way down.

At this point, Willi tried to give one last attempt at securing the hill but the Mercedes, as powerful as it was, could not manage and worse, started to slide sideways. Scenes from past movies of cars rolling down hills crossed my mind and, knowing that both Sandie and I needed to move, I was also aware that the vehicle was crucially balanced. Willi got out of the front slowly and I suggested that Sandie get out first since weighed more than she and was at the upward portion of the slope sideways. This way any balance would still be kept. After she got out, I eased out and Willi went to get the tractor. Excitement it was!!!

In spite of all that was going on, I still had the presence of mind to notice the many limestone and coralline rocks around the vineyard and thinking that some samples may come in handy in the future, I picked up a few. At worst, they would occupy a place of honour next to my rather large fishpond in my backyard. At best, they could be used as an example of they type of soil structure and deposit at this vineyard.

We went back to the winery where we tasted some wines from the three different soil structured vineyards. The vineyards have definite if not subtle differences. For example, Sernauberg wines are very expressive and complex and can age many years. Kranachberg and Pffarweingarten are more expressive of the terroir with its minerality and have a distinctive character and complex aroma structure. We tasted many fine wines and found them to have excellent fruit, great freshness with just the right amount of minerality and acidity. Some older vintages showed excellent integrity and capability for more aging.

Sattlerhof also has a unique restaurant and hotel with vineyard views is managed by Willi's brother, Hannes. That and a great hiking trail through the vineyards allows the visitor to get the best out of the magnificent Styrian wine, food and scenery.

Weingut Tement

Off we went again to yet another winery and this one had several unique features. This was a modern winery with open concepts and bold windows showing the vineyard expanse. Once through the meticulously clean and new concept bar and foyer, the eyes immediately went to the huge open window concept that viewed a very large outdoor deck high above the vineyards that sloped down the hill plateau on which the winery was located to a road far below near which was a farm house that looked for all intents, like a miniature toy amidst an artificial roadway.

"One part of this vineyard is in Austria and the other is in Slovenia. If you look to your right you will be viewing the country of Slovenia!" Armin Tement the son of the owner Manfred Tement went on to say that they made two types of wines---one Slovenian (Ciringa) and the other Austrian. In order to make these wines Tement must fulfill the requirements of both Austrian and Slovenian authorities. Two countries and two appellations lead to two equally great wines from one vineyard. Looking down at the mist shrouded valley below the whole setting seemed surreal. It was hard to imagine that such a quiet pastoral setting could exist.

Sandie Kraft conducted a first class interview with Armin who explained the family history and reasons of the traditional yet modern approach to wine making that his family had. Then he beckoned us to go back into the building and showed us the reason for the high minerality and lusciousness of his wine. Sea shell fossils abound in this area and thus are responsible for the complexity and minerality of the wines. Yet his best white wines such as Sauvignon Blanc are long lived and mature very nicely with flavours ranging from citrus lime to passion fruit to floral to petrol.

The labels on the bottles are also equally interesting. The Slovenian Domaine Ciringa Sauvignon Blanc has the Fossil Shell on its label with the term Fosilni Bregg indicating the origin of the wine whose white current, asparagus, pear and minerality is evident. The Tement bottles are quite a sight with the large "T" and cluster of grapes just above the Tement name-----truly well done.

Armin allowed us to taste some more the wines before taking us down into the cellars which uniquely were spotless and well constructed. To show the true construction of the cellar walls, a large portion of the limestone wall was left uncovered and here one could feel the moisture and imagine the ages of time within those walls. I picked up a couple of samples and put them into my bag for future reference. Now I too had a part of Tement in my possession that will accompany my thoughts whenever I look at my ------acquisitions!

Our trip to Tement drew to a close and soon we were off to the Genuss Hotel in Riegersburg.
Genuss Hotel
About thirty minutes from Tement and Sattlerhof is Riegersburg, a village with some serious history but it seems that wherever one went in Styria let alone Austria, one encountered history. In this case, history came in the form of a castle which goes back at least to the 12th Century and probably much further. The location of the castle is representative of the volcanic activity that occurred in this region many years ago. The castle rests on the remnants of an ancient volcano and was built as a protection from foreign invasions. It has been owned by the Liechtenstein family since the early 19th Century and is now a major tourist attraction.

My room at the four star Genuss Hotel had a great view of the castle in the distance as well as a very comfortable balcony complete with very comfortable chairs to sit on. The hotel had an excellent dining room with a balcony patio that also viewed the castle.

The surrounding countryside was a patchwork of vineyard, forest and meadow along with farm houses and of course the lovely village of Riegersburg. It was amazing how quiet it was at night and the stars seemed to jump out of the sky in order to be noticed. So many stars were present that night even though there were periods of rain.

I could feel the day's adventures wearing on my eyelids as I tried hard to stay up and take in the quiet sound of silence. It was no use. Sandman was working just as hard to say to me, "Wait until morning but tonight sleep!" I took his advice!!!!

June 2nd: Dancing On The Street, Weingut Wohlmuth, Wirtshaus Moserhof, Weingut Skoff

2011-06-22T17:08:00.000-07:00

June 2nd: Onward To Styria!!!

Dancing Around Mozart's House

Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart was born in 1756 and died in 1791. He crammed much into his very brief life starting composing at the age of five and setting a track record as one of the most popular composers of all time. He lived for a time in Vienna where he composed some of his most famous symphonies.

With this in mind, I mentioned to Sandie and Roy what was becoming the signature phrase of the tour, "I have an idea!" The idea was to find Mozart's house and film a dance sequence in front of it-----much like that of a musical film. We decided to go ahead with the idea.

Thanks to our ever present "right arm" Tibor, we found Domgasse 5 and set up camera. Sandie and I decided to "dress up" for the event and dress up Sandie did, wearing a flowing sky blue dress that made both male and female heads turn as we walked by. I remember saying to Sandie that even if I were naked, most would not have even noticed since all eyes were on her.

The scene went this way. The camera was set up in such a way that the view was down the narrow cobbled street and ending at an Abby. We would walk up as if just coming out of the Abby on a tourist venture and then coming up the cobbled street and "surprise, surprise", discover Mozart's House which was so labeled. One thing would lead to another which would see us acting on our fantasies and begin doing a waltz in the street.

We carried the whole project through like pros with only one retake. The crowd that assemble around us burst into an applause when we concluded our dance and all were smiles. We did it!

Styria And The Pre-Alps

We were then off to Styria or Steiermark in South East Austria. Most of the wineries we visited were in Sudsteirermark or South Styria whose border with the country of Slovenia was very evident. Some of the vineyards were split---one in Austria and the other in Slovenia. As a matter of fact, it was so close to the border that when we were driving on the highway, the highway was bisected by the Austrian/Slovenian border. Tibor, our driver, was driving in Austria as was Sandie in the left rear passenger seat whereas Roy and I on the right were riding in Slovenia. So much for "Customs and Immigration".

Styria was/is the most southern part of Austria. Here the geography became very interesting since we were entering a more mountainous/hilly area known as the Pre-Alps where heights of 1500 metres were common and for all intents and purposes, we were in a mountainous zone.

There were very little flat vineyards here and I couldn't help but wonder how difficult it must be for the owners to harvest their grapes----especially since many of the vineyards stretched up some 700 metres at a 60 degree angle.

My mind also wandered to the amazing history of the area, having once been a part of the Celtic domain and later a Roman province and of course then it became a stomping ground for warrior nomads like the Huns and Franks until finally settled by Slavs.

Wine was introduced by the Celts and flourished under the Romans. Vineyards fell on hard times under the subsequent Nomad invasions but were reinstated by the foresight of leaders such as Charlemagne. A history of an area is very much the history of its wines and that's what we were there to discover.

Weingut Wohlmuth

With almost 210 (1803) years of history behind it Wohlmuth stands out as a truly amazing winery that makes a variety of fine products. Located in Kitzeck in the heart of South Styria and at the foot of the Kitzeck Mountains, Wohlmuth was the first winery in our stopover in this extremely scenic region of high rolling hills and endless vineyards. We were met by Gerhard Wohlmuth Jr, whose infectious smile portraying the obvious pride that he had in his winery was second only to his extreme enthusiasm and hospitality. It was he who directed us to the tremendous geographical significance of this and other wineries' location. First of all were the microclimates initiated by the topography----each winery enjoying the major overall benefits and then having its own. Then there was the political influences of countries close by such as Slovenia, Hungary and Italy. In addition to this was the popularity the area has for tourists and sports enthusiasts such as bicycling. In fact, next door to the winery restaurant we were eating at, a group of "cycle" racers stopped to rest and regroup. The twenty or so cyclists were gone as quickly as they came. We had lunch delicious meal accompanied by some excellent Wohlmuth wine. The white and red wines tasted displayed a complexity, finesse and subtlety that was quite impressive. They were also "food wines" which in reality could be said of most of the wines tasted in Austria. I have a penchant for Sauvignon Blanc and I was not disappointed. Gerhard was thought well by his father!

Teaching can only go so far however and in order to excel one must have passion and love. Here Gerhard proved that he was first and foremost a winemaker.

Gerhard started his "trade" when he was only five years old, following his father through the vineyards and down into the cellar. His mind was made up by the time he was six his mind was made up and a winemaker was what he wanted to be. By age 15, he was being trained by his father, Gerhard Sr., much the same way that the senior Gerhard's father thought him.

His formal training began at home but progressed to wineries throughout the globe with stints in Italy, South Africa and New Zealand and culminating at the University at Eisenstadt which is the capital of Burgenland. His best teacher though remains his father whose "on the spot decision making" reflected the changes that happen not only year to year but day to day.

With all this experience and knowledge it is little wonder that the 200 year old winery has some top of the line modern facilities from bottling line to fermentation tanks. The wine making decisions are made when the grapes are picked and are at the moment of processing. No preconcepts are made-----a true "hands on' philosophy.

Weingut Walter Skoff

"Wine is Life; Our Life is Wine!" is the motto that is written on the wall of the Walter Skoff Winery which has been a family tradition for almost one hundred years. The winery is managed by Mr. Sauvignon Blanc as Walter is lovingly known as in directly relation to the magnificent Sauvignon Blanc that he makes in addition to other varieties of wine.

Walter, a very handsome and dynamic individual who in many ways would be a "larger than life" character in a novel is assisted in his winemaking duties by his son, Joachim. While Walter's family has been in the wine business for many years, Walter can be credited by revamping the who enterprise and modernizing it. Applying modern techniques to traditional methods, Walter has produced some "striking" wines made from a variety of soils thus giving the product a wide variety of flavour and aroma levels. His single vineyard wines such as the ones where his Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc are grown have a tremendous elegance to them as well as a fine minerality. The elegance increases as the wines age and the fact is that many of Walter's wines age very, very well.

While Walter is the initiator in the wine making, son, Joachim is no slouch either. Joachim obtained extensive experience with various wineries in countries such as Chile, New Zealand and South Africa bringing with him new innovative ideas for his family business.

The winery cellar is a an attractive and highly functional one. Winery cellars do not have to be beautiful but this one with its brickwork and design is quite artistic and well done. As one descends to the cellar, a huge boulder serves as a small waterfall thus introducing the rest of the cellar and barrel room. A room upstairs serves as a banquet room when needed.

Outside the main building area is a patio style restaurant that serves various food dishes---all complimentary to the wines made at Skoff. We settled down to a supper that had many unique dishes that went "Oh So Well" with the wines. The Buschenschank or restaurant worked well!

I found that regardless of the food or wines served, the amazing diverse levels of flavour in each of the wines went well with almost any of the food served---be it anti pasta, cheese, meat or vegetable. What an experience.

Walter gave us a tour of his vineyards and we took several pictures. The main picture on Facebook and the "Two In A Vineyard"website (Sandie and I with grape collecting baskets) was taken at his vineyard.

Hospitality was the word at Skoff and I watched as guests laughed, ate and enjoyed their meals amidst a scenery view that was stunning. The atmosphere was electric and I could see that Tibor, Roy and especially Sandie were having a great time. Walter's father and grandmother came over to our table to pay their respects. His father showed the passion that must have influenced Walter. However, all good things must come to an end as did our visit with Skoff, its wines, vineyards and amazingly labelled bottles. The family came over to send us off and we left as night was descending upon us.

Wirtshaus im Moserhof

We were off to Wirtshaus im Moserhof. The trip became more ominous as we drove through ever progressing dark. We started to drive up a hill that did not seem to quit and it seemed to evolving into a mountain as the car circled on and on up to the heights.

The darkness plus encroaching forest arose primitive ideas fostered by an overactive imagination and a fascination in horror vampire movies as a child. I mentioned to Tibor that if I saw some large bats and wolves, we would be turning back. Tibor gave his usual broken laugh that sounded something of a cross between the squeaky yelp of a small terrier and and the guttural coughing sound a lion makes when in heat. Then after some anticipation that we had made a wrong turn, the hotel appeared.

It was alone at the summit of a 705 metre hill. Surrounded by trees and in the dark, the sense of isolation was ever present. We unloaded the luggage and were issued rooms. When I got to my room all sense of apprehension disappeared, it was just lovely and had a large balcony with a view that would have been, I am sure, stupendous. The room itself was spotless and modern looking even though the hotel itself was built in 1632. There was a swimming pool outside and all the comfort of home on the inside.

I wrote for awhile and then around two thirty in the morning finally lay down to get some sleep. My mind was full of the adventures of the previous day and pleasant thoughts ruled my mind until the Austrian Sandman finally sent me off to pleasant dreams.

June 1st: Continued: Beethoven's House, Weingut Mayer Am Pfaarplatz, Queen's Summer House, Wein & Co., Rathaus Hotel

2011-06-17T06:26:00.000-07:00

June 1st: A Very Busy Day

We were essentially on our own though our itinerary was well planned, we did have the options of the length of time we stayed at any one place. Klosterneuburg was magnificent and would be a hard act to follow but the one thing the three (should I say four) of us found out that new and very exciting adventures loomed around every corner.

Visit To Beethoven's House

Just up from a very artsy winery/restaurant called Hajszan (where our guide/driver and by now friend, Tibor will be having his wedding reception), was the very historic Weingut Mayer Am Pfarrplatz. The Weingut is located in Heiligenstadt which is a sub district in the outskirts of Vienna.

The Mayer family have lived in the area since 1683 and have a combined Inn/Restaurant that is as historic as the family. The house proper predates Beethoven spending his 1817 summer there by over 100 years and the actual history goes back to the 12th Century. Here, Beethoven composed part of his 9th Symphony and earlier he composed his 6th Symphony.

I walked into the building to find Roy sitting down watching Sandie talk to two gentlemen. It turned out that one was Gerhard Lobner of Mayer Am Pfarrpaltz and the other was Fritz Weininger of the famous Weininger Winery. The interview was going so well that I immediately asked Roy to start filming. Sandie was doing such a wonderful job at getting these two giants to talk that it all seemed so natural. Too natural since we were losing precious footage and as my old friend, Greg Rist used to say; "If it is not on tape; It never happened!"

The two had a super conversation talking about the building we were in, their vineyards (Weininger's 'Nussberg Vineyard' is one of the finest as is 'Lobner's Roteshaus'). One of the more interesting things that was discussed is the practice of "Gemischter Satz" which means a Field Blend where vines of different varieties are harvested and vinified together. The wine is thus not having to undergo separate aging and/or vinifying/blending process. The blend is already made within the vineyard. This reminded me of the similar practice in Veneto, Italy where the different vines of some wines are grown, harvested and vininfied together.

Our visit to Mayer Am Pfarrplatz culminated in a delicious meal made by Master Chef (Pfarrwirt Restaurant) Jorchim Graduschl which included the famous 'Schnitzel' along with other superb dishes matched with phenomenal wines from the host winery. Later a visit to the Weininger Winery proved very informative.

Schoenbrunn Palace

Now that our stomachs were full of excellent food and wine as well as major thoughts about viticulture techniques and historic ambiances, we were off to Schoenbrunn Palace which was the summer palace (all 1400 rooms of it) of Emperor Franz Josef and Empress Sissi of Austria. This palace which is also a UNESCO World Heritage site, was originally purchased as a hunting preserve by the Holy Roman Emperor Maximilian in 1549. The property came into the hands of Eleonora Gonzalga about one hundred years later and was used for similar entertainment. Incidentally, the name Schoenbrunn means "beautiful spring".

Through the years many other points of interest were added: French Gardens (1695), a Maze, Tiergarten Zoo (1752), an Orangerie or Conservatory (1755), Botanical Garden (1828) and an Orangutan Enclosure in 2009. The place with its 300+ acres and its many exhibits was overwhelming. Too much to see all at once and certainly much to much to film with just a couple of hours to tour it. We decided to do the next best thing-----Take a Buggy Ride and be escorted through the various spots----in style. Roy could also concentrate on filming rather than mere walking.

We hired a "buggy" pulled by a rather spirited horse to take us around and we covered the area in much less time that it would have by walking alone. We passed by the Gloriette a garden commissioned by Empress Maria Theresa and the Roman Ruins---not really Roman Ruins but built as a garden feature in 1778 and the Obelisk Fountain not far from them. The trip was well worth it as the area was very large and it would have been shameful to miss viewing much of this grandiose palace.Soon the ride was over and we were merrily on our way to our next stop on this ultra busy day.

Wein & Co.

Wein & Co is located in the marketing town of Vosendorf which claims the largest Shopping Mall in Europe and the largest theatre centre in Austria. There amids the many boutiques,narrow but very clean streets and packed cafes lies Wein & Co.

Sandie noticed an orange drink that seemed to be the "in" thing on the street and in the cafes. We met up with Monika Kriwan who was obviously involved in public relations and media marketing. She sat us down and welcomed us with-----the very orange drink. Which was quite refreshing and tasty. It is apparently the rage of the area and all cafes seem to be selling it.

We met Heinz Camera (unique name) who was the owner and conceiver of the whole shop. His restaurant was indeed flourishing but so was his wine shop with 2000 labels from all over the World. "I sell my wines from the shop and allow the patrons to have it with their meals at no extra cost. I cannot understand why the rest of the world such as the USA does not do this." My response was that maybe the legalities of each country is so different that many areas, states and countries do not allow such a thing. In practice it would seem a great idea and ideal for food and wine sales. Heinz and I made a quick interview and then it was time for him to go and teach his staff about wine and for us to have dinner.

We then had dinner at Wein & Co. and I for one enjoyed the Tuna Steak very much so. I was surprised to see that Heinz's favourite wine was a South African but we had one in his honour at the table.

By the time we were done it was time to settle down for the night and we made our way for the final destination of the day----Rathaus Hotel!

What a find it was! The hotel is small but well designed. The rooms are named after a wine theme and music is everywhere. The rooms are also full of wine amenities if one so chose. In the centre of the hotel was a lovely,quaint courtyard that was surrounded---castle style---by the hotel itself. Here one was protected from the wine and sun and quietly could reflect the day's work or whatever he/she wanted. A truly nice find with an ever pleasing quiet night and wonderful breakfast the next morning.

So ended our day---it was a big one and busy one but we got through it. Now on to yet another full day of adventure, fun and wine!!!!!!!

June 1st----On To 900 Years Of History And Wine Making

2011-06-09T11:19:00.000-07:00

June 1st
The night went quickly and I was still quite tired from the previous day's activities. I thought of those that stayed behind at the party the night before and felt some compassion for them as they would have to be up and checked out of the hotel in order to be picked up by the Shuttle to get to the airport. Some did decide to stay an extra two days and I thought that wise. Vienna and Austria were so beautiful that one needed time on one's own to see the sights at a slower pace. There would not be any slower pace for the three of us though. We had much work to do and we had five days to do it in. The AWMB was still involved with the planning of our tour but it was Roy, Sandie and me that were the principals involved. The three of us plus our guide/driver Tibor were off to our first visit at 7:30 AM. A word about Tibor. Of all the driver/guides that I ever came across in my travels, I never met one so goal oriented and time conscious yet he was a pleasure to have around and I appreciated his personality and humour. He was a truly genuine human being and a good sport who took much teasing from me!!!
Klosterneuburg
Klosterneuburg is a 900 year old, still functioning monastery that rises directly from the banks of the Danube River. It is also the largest privately owned winery in Austria making fine wines out of Gruner Veltliner, Riesling, St, Laurent grapes.
Though the St. Laurent is the main red and the Gruner Veltliner the main white grape, the Zweigelt grape was "discovered' at the monastery in 1922 by a Professor Zweigelt.
We were met by Export Manager Christine Hoffman and Managing Director Wolfgang Hamm.
Christine took us to the Klosterneuburg Vineyard which stood on a rise of land just above the Kloster.
It is hard to describe the serenity that the view of the vineyard overlooking the monastery endowed upon me. It all seemed surreal. A few days prior I was in Canada puttering around my backyard fishpond and now, I was looking and being part of a part of history in a country some five thousand miles from there. The grandeur of the day, Sun shining and warm plus the melodic sounds of the birds around us added a spiritual feeling to an already spiritual place. I felt at peace.
Christine was a beautiful young lady. She seemed so young for such an important position. I wondered---was I ever so young? Roy, camera in hand had set up the tripod for the interview. This time I thought Sandie was the best one for the job. It seemed so fitting and ironic that two lovely and talented women discuss the product that was once the sole affairs of men. Times have changed and for the better.
Sandie proved to me the wisdom of her being a co-host for this series. She showed great poise and a knack for asking good questions. Christine, nervous at first, showed her metal also. It was a good interview and with Roy's ability behind the camera, I knew it was complete. We went back to the Kloster.
1000 Years Of History
It all goes back to St. Augustine, born in 354 AD in Algeria. After a life of travels and questions concerning his philosophical existence, he converted to Christianity in 386 and later founded the Augustine Order.
The history of the actual site of Klosterneuburg goes back to the early 12th Century when Leopold 3rd (patron saint of Austria) and his wife founded it. Legend has it that the reason of the monastery being built at the present site is owing to a freak wind that blew away his wife's wedding veil and it seemingly was lost. Leopold vowed that if he found the veil, he would build a monastery at the site. Years later, he found the veil in perfect condition amongst some trees and bushes. He thus kept his promise.
Whether the story is true or not, the success of Klosterneuburg is itself legendary.
Roman Influence
Excavations have revealed a prosperous Roman community and fort around the 1st to 5th centuries AD. The Klosterneuburg itself is built on Roman foundations. While many of the buildings go back to 12th, 13th and 14th Centuries, the major parts of the Kloster were erected in the 18th Century.
Deep Cellars
After the vineyard filming we went back to the main building were Dr. Wolfgang Hamm was waiting. He took us deep, deep, deep into the cellars. The temperature was a constant 13 degrees Centigrade but being 36 metres or roughly 100 feet underground would do that. The limestone walls----many of the supports being the Roman foundations----wreaked of history as did the many artifacts within them. Barrels with dates on them ranging from the early 17th to the 19th Centuries. However there weren't only barrels.

A barrel holder that held the largest of barrels---I could swim in it if need be---was there in two pieces. I easily lay in the curve of one of the halves. In another section of the Kloster was a barrel even bigger and on display in one of the food/beverage buildings.

An interesting thing about the ancient cellar were the wind draft tunnels that rose horizontally from the base at the cellar foundations to the top. This ingenious construction kept the cellar dry but also served in some way as an air conditioning unit to the building above----circulating the cool air from the cellar below. The old cellars also house a unique wine collection as well as a series of older barrels with images of Royalty used in the early 20th Century for expositions.

The Chapel and Verdun Alter

Wolfgang then took us to the Chapel where we visited and watch monks in their prayers. The Chapel was a sensual gyro with so many vivid visual images from top to bottom that in addition to the verbal chant of those praying, was so difficult to take in during the short period of time that we were there. I couldn't help but feel emotional and very honoured to have been granted a visit here.The winged alter piece, the Verdum Alter, found in the burial chapel of St. Leopold, was constructed in 1181 and represented the biblical stories from Creation to the Last Judgement. It was an amazing masterpiece to behold. What I couldn't get over was the fact that we were in a functioning church that existed over 900 years ago but still functions as a religious establishment.

The Treasury

After the visit to the Chapel, off we went to visit the museum which housed some very important works of art as well as artifacts pertaining to the Kloster as well as the older fort that predated it. One of the most interesting items here was the Treasury where the Crown of the Archduke is permanently kept. The Crown, under view in a glass case, is also known as the "holy crown of Austria". Also there was the "Veil of Agnes' as well as many religious order garments worn by the priests as well as ivory carvings depicting the last judgement that were so intricately carved that I could not imagine the time it took towards completion or the tremendous talent of the carver. We also saw the writing equipment of St. Leopold. An interesting story about the crown is that legend has it that should the crown be taken from Klosterneuburg, the monastery and all around it would disintegrated in a massive quake!!!! Remind me not to have any aspirations for souvenir hunting!!!!!!

During our tour, we had the privilege of being introduced to the Provost of the monastery. He would hold the rank of Bishop. His name is Bernhard IV Hermann Backovsky and he is the 66th

person to hold that rank. The Provost(1995)/Abbott General (elected 2002) had a gentle but firm handshake depicting a strong but very gentle nature. His welcoming gestures were very appreciated.

The Wine Shop/Abbey Winery

The Abbey houses the largest and oldest winery in Austria. The methods used are a combination of Traditional and Modern techniques which certainly result in very fine wines. The wine shop is an original de-sanctified chapel from the 13th Century. Inside it were housed the wines produced at all the Kloster vineyards and for sale to the public.

Vineyards
There are four vineyards in four famous wine towns/areas: Klosterneuburg (23 hectares) is the vineyard most adjacent the monastery produces Gruner Veltliner, Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc.
Vienna (25 hectares) produces Weissburgunder, Chardonnay, Gewurztraminer Welschreisling and Pinot Noir. Gumpoldskirchen produces Zirfandler and Rotgipfler. Finally Tattendorf (40 hectares) the Kloster's largest vineyard area produces red varieties such as: St. Laurent and is the largest St. Laurent vineyard in the world (Ried Siftsbreite Vineyard). The first St. Laurent vines were planted in 1890.
I would like to point out that 10% of all profits from Klosterneuburg go to charities and support of projects that assist the street children of Romania and Moldavia. In addition to this many cultural events for people of all ages are presented by the monastery which is classed as one of Austria's most valuable treasures. Monasteries used to be the leaders in education, spirituality, cultural expression and hospitality. Klosterneuburg continues their valiant and sacred path!
Our thanks goes to the Abbott General of Klosterneuburg, Dr. Wolfgang Hamm, Christine Hoffman and the Spirit of Klosterneuburg for a very inviting and hospitable visit!!!!
Wines Tasted
We tasted several wines from the Kloster and my favourite was definitely the red St. Laurent Reserve. An amazing red with both fruit and good backbone for cellaring. The Kloster also makes a fine group of whites and sparkling wines which I enjoyed as did my cohorts.
To Be Continued--------Next Beethoven's House and a great interview/lunch

AWMB Throws A Great Party!

2011-06-09T06:25:00.000-07:00

AWMB ( The Austrian Wine Marketing Board) May 31st Evening
The AWMB was founded in 1986 in response to a very bad press scandal regarding the condition/state in the production of Austrian wine. It was founded to: "Strategically support, coordinate, and maintain quality and sales with a domestic goal to obtain an increased market share of Quality Wine with the export of bottled Quality Wine with particular focus of on the continued increase in value."
Included in its detailed mix of marketing activities is a proactive public relations campaign that is second to none. One of the activities was the one Roy, Sandie and I attended "Discover Wine Wonderland Austria". There were other groups visiting with different wine focus areas.
The game plan of the AWMB is to show the wines of Austria and the areas that produce them in a positive and progressive light with emphasis on quality, sales and a forward momentum to show the world what its wines are made of.
While there are many wine boards and quality control systems around the world, none have done the exceedingly fine job of bringing their plans to fruition as has the AWMB.
I remember feeling a bit "difficult" when told of the four day series of events and lectures. That changed as I became increasingly aware that this was no ordinary presentation but one that would truly introduce the visitor to the family so to speak.
This is something that the Ontario Wine Authorities should closely look at. They may have to spend some money but the result would be very advantageous to sales and credibility.
My congratulations to Mr. W. Kilinger and his fine team.
Party Time
Good byes are hard to do at the best of times but as usual the AWMB team made our goodbyes to the people we had visited with very meaningful. A party, complete with band, buffet food and Austrian Wine, took place at the Waggon 31 Viennese Prater.
We were treated to a ride on a legendary giant Ferris Wheel called the Riesenrad, which was constructed towards the end of the 19th Century and maintained until the present. It was fun to go up and view all of Vienna underneath my feet.
Vienna has so many attractions. Such a device in the middle of a large city would seem not to fit but not only does this fit but it adds to the history and culture of the city.
We had our amazing ride and went upstairs to a party that had already started as we got there later owing to a filming sequence that we needed to do.
To say that this was impressive would be understating the fact. I estimated some 300 people were already there from every country imaginable. No frowns, just the endless smiling faces of journalists, wine writers, agents, educators, students, sommeliers who attended the four day event and were now relaxing and communicating. This is the way it should be done!
We-the three of us--had a long day and would soon have to complete our work schedule starting the next day. While not at theoretical, it would be as if not more intensive for we had a job to do and we wanted to do it well. So we bid our adieus and left a party that would probably go on until the early morning hours. Have fun everyone----you earned it!!!!
On leaving I couldn't help thinking of what I used to open the television show that I wrote and co-hosted in the '90's. It was called "The Wine Companions". I said Wine is History. Wine is Geography. Wine is Science. Wine is People! I also recalled the "7 Elements Of Uniqueness" which were the Climate, the land,the Grapes, the Culture, the People, the respect for/of Nature, the food pairing. In essence we were saying the same thing!!!!!

Four Fast Days: May 31st: Kemptal, Sparkling Wine, Some Local History, Riesling , Boating The Danube and A BIG VIENNA PARTY!!!!!!

2011-06-06T19:32:00.000-07:00

May 31st
Langenios, Kemptal (Two In A Vineyard Visits The Loisium)
The Loisium is a popular destination for those who want to express their interest in wine modernity along with antiquity and history. The Loisium was a welcome spot after a long drive. The Sauvignon Blanc Sparkling wine served on arriving was indeed very refreshing and delicious. The cube shaped building was indeed a modern construction with a vinotheque, Sektbar and shop. Here one could study wine at his/her leisure yet explore his environment by rediscovering the five senses which have to do with wine.
The tour of the cellar was both a visual as well as a sensual experience--from the emergence of the God Bacchus from within his watery slumber to the tickle of a baby's foot towards the end of the tour and everything in between. Some things did get lost in translation but not without humorous misadventures between guide and group. It was fun.
Castle Durnstein And Riesling
The seminar that followed at Castle Durnstein was exceptional and featured the "Great Single Vineyards of Wachau". The castle is the property of Domane Wachau and has been well renovated to its former (1714) glory. Here wine is the main inspiration and everything that is produced is done to present wine in the most inspiring way. Six wines, all Riesling, from the Wachau were tasted. The wines ranged from light to golden in colour with a nose range from citrus to apple/pear. The palate ranged from tropical pineapple to apple and citrus. Nice finish.
While the group got a tour of the Castle Roy, Sandie and I went into the Garden to do some film sequences. The garden is not what you'd call average by any stretch of the imagination. It stretches from past the main gate to the main building itself and is a menagerie of flowers and designs. We managed to get some great shots of not only the magnificent building but also of the "two" of the vineyard clowning around the massive fountains.
Danube Boat Trip
The visit to the Wachau Domane ended and shortly after we were on our way to Spitz where a boat was waiting for us to go down the Danube from Spitz to Durnstein.
Gruner Veltliner was the wine of the day and boat trip. Five were tasted---all of Smaragd quality and from different vineyards. Certainly Gruner Veltliner is a great wine of Austria and well represented for its many soils. Each wine was the same yet different showing the amazing adaptability of the grape variety.
The boat ride view was superb with many vineyard sites being pointed out. The beauty of the Danube is legendary but one cannot appreciate it unless one sees for him/herself. The ruins of a castle named after the village it overlooks, Durnstein, could be seen from the boat. It is known for the legend that Richard the Lionheart was imprisoned their after his capture by Leopold of Austria in the 12th Century. He was later rescued or released for ransom. The castle was destroyed by Swedish troops in the 17th Century. Another building was built as an Abby in the 15th Century and later rebuilt in a Baroque Style and is none other than the building complete with gardens that the three of us visited earlier that day. History has a way of coming full circle does it not???
Wachau Lunch
A small lunch was held at the Jamek Restaurant along with some fine Riesling from the Wachau:
Dumplings Of Pike With Parsley Sauce And Rice
Two Rieslings from different vineyards.
Boiled Beef With Apple Horseradish, Chives And Smashed Roasted Potatoes
Two Gruner Veltliners from different vineyards
Cake Filled With Chocolate Cream And Raspberry Sauce
Trockenbeerenauslese Riesling
The wine and food match was as usual was excellent and the group present were being put in the right frame of mind for a very large and very welcome party.
To be continued--------!

Fast Four Days Continued: May 30th More Adventures In Wine, Food and History

2011-06-05T03:07:00.000-07:00

Castle Tastings, Cooking School, Danube Wines, 1000 year Abbey and Toni Moerwald's Und Dinner!!!!
Sclosshof or Hof Palace is an unusually beautiful piece of history. Located near the border of Austria and Slovenia, it was built by PrinceEugene of Savoy in 1726 and much later purchased by Empress Maria Theresa. The Schloss is an amazing combination of Baroque architecture and fine gardens kept up daily by a large staff. The visitor is welcomed by a tranquility of water falls and ponds and the mind is alerted by many colours of flowers on display.
This is what greeted the group of writers and journalists when they came to a wine seminar that was delivered by Darrel Joseph of Decanter Magazine, Wine Spectator and many more publications gave a seminar concerning the wines of Styria where he spoke of Sauvignon Blanc, Muskateller, Traminer, Blauer Wildbacher, Morrillon (Chardonnay) and Zweigelt.
The whole experience was quite professional and well co-ordinated. I found that I had a problem with my identification of the Muskateller grape and wanted to identify it as a Sauvignon Blanc. I posed the question and was answered to the fact that only tasting more of this grape would help in identification as the wine truly had major Muskateller characteristics.
Cooking Class
Viennese "Schnitzel" was the menu of the Schloss and we were the cooks. It was surprisingly easy to make and a bigger surprise was that Austrian State Television was on hand to interview our own Sandie Kraft. She hammed it up as she does on Two In A Vineyard but she had good delivery and any publicity for our show was good publicity. Great Work Shadow!!!!!
Weinviertel DAC Tasting With Schnitzel-----4 Wines
During the cooking a number of wines were made available to taste as part of the wine and food match. Four wines, all Gruner Veltliner were tasted and were an excellent match for the food displayed.
Open Tasting Wein DAC and The Diversity Of Wines From Weinviertel Area--21 Wines.
14 Gruner Veltliners, 1 Riesling, 1 Sauvignon Blanc, 1 Traminer, 1 BlauerZweigelt, 1 Zweigelt and 2 Pinot Noirs were tasted and they all had special characteristics. The Pinots were especially well made as were the Blauer Zweigelt and Zweigelt.
Gottweig Abbey--Gotweig, Kremstal
Gotweig Abbey is a massive monastery atop a very high mountainous hill. In 1083, Bishop Altmann of Pausau founded this monastery in the Benedictine vein. It still stands in perfect shape after almost 1000 years. Danube Terroirs or "Danube Wine Making Philosophy" were investigated here with 12 wines: 6 Gruner Veltliners and 6 Rieslings tasted from different origin of soils. Their was an obvious difference in the taste and consistency of the different wines from different soil areas.
Niederosterreich Gourmet Dinner At Kloster UND Restaurant
At 8 PM we gathered at one of the most famous of restaurants not only in Austria but in the Globe. This former church has a history was formerly the abode of Prince Eugene and the private chamber of Empress Maria Theresa. The layout of the historic building includes a Ballroom that once entertained kings and queens and a chapel that anointed the marriages of many of the Hapsburg family. The gardens are a sight to behold as they stretch from terrace to terrace.
This building is now part of the Moerwald Restaurant empire run by Toni Moerwald, an exciting and adventurous chef that is among the best in the world. Toni has entertained many celebrities which include Queen Elizabeth, Frank Stronach, Arnold Schwarzenegger among them. Toni's team produced a great Gourmet meal that none of the group will ever forget.
Here is the description.
Wine Aperitif
Brut Rose: Burgunder Sorten
Homegraved Trout From The Wagram With Beetroot & Buttermilk Mousse
Gruner Veltliner from Wachau
Gruner Veltliner from Wagram
Wild Char From Mariazell
Chinese burn Ravioli & Fond Of Wild Herbs
Riesling from Kemptal
Riesling from Kremstal
Fillet Of Austrian Organic Veal With Asparagus & Steamed Morrel
St. Laurent from Thermenregion
Zweigelt, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon Blend from Carnuntum
Rhubarb Sour Cream Cake With Almond Crocant & Basil Ice Cream
Gruner Veltliner Eiswein from Wagram
Riesling Beerenauslese from Wachau
This was a true treat in the best way possible but the fun was not yet over since I made arrangements with Toni Moerwald to come back and interview him plus get some cooking tips.
Thanks to Peter Schieimer Chief Editor of Vinaria Magazine and Willi Klinger Managing Director of the Austrian Wine Marketing Board.
To Be Continued.....

Four Fast Days In Vienna (May 29th through June 1st)

2011-05-30T15:03:00.000-07:00

May 29th! Seminars, Castles, Shallow Lakes and Gourmet Fare!!!
At first I resisted the idea of having compulsory meetings. After all, it was too much like school. A visit to the Weinakademie Osterreich (Austrian Wine Academy) cured that. The school is a revelation and modern is the word with state of the art class rooms and grounds that would make a groundskeeper jealous. The inside was as impressive as the impeccable outside but what else would one expect from Austria. Our driver and guide arrived us in plenty of time. Tibor (his name) was already becoming invaluable both for his professional approach and his willingness to help in any manner. He did not fail.
Sandie and I attended the lecture about the "Wine Wonderful Austria" presented by AWMB Managing Director Willi Klinger and Christian Zechmeister of Wein Burgenland.
The lecture offered insight into the Academy which is not only the largest of its kind in Europe but also offers wine courses from Basic to a Master of Wine. One of the newest additions is the Rare Wine Specialist Course.Here were tasted some fourteen wines ranging from Sauvignon Blanc, Gruner Veltliner, Pinot Blanc and Riesling to Zierfandler, Gemischter, Zweigelt and St Laurent to Blaufrankisch to blended wines (Zweigelt, Blaufrankisch, Merlot) and (Furmint/Muskateller). Style also varied from fresh, dry and mouth puckering whites to earthy, fruity reds to the sumptuous and delicious sweet dessert wines. Regardless of what was the style, the wines produced were well made and (this is what I liked best) especially suited to food which of course is what I think wine should be all about.
Burgenland is absolutely beautiful with many tiny villages in the area and vineyards abounding. It has Two main cities Eisenstadt and Rust. In many ways, this area reminded me of California's Napa and Sonoma of earlier times.
Here it seems that the Gruner Veltliner is king of grapes. This grape certainly reflects its soils very well and for the most part offers at the basic level excellent mineral laden wine while at its best provides an experience that is both exciting and seductive with a fresh flinty nose and tropical flavours. Indeed this up and coming new comer is a must for those in North America wanting value and long lived charm. Some may not like the fresh acidity of this wine but as for me and many other professionals at various tastings, it proved a winner.
Esterhazy Castle
After the seminar we headed to Eisenstadt, the capital of Burgenland, where we had lunch and a tour of Esterhazy Castle. Lunch consisted of Burgenland specialties such as local salads, roast beef and dessert (Biscuits with Vanilla Cream and Chocolate Sauce). First can an aperitif of sparkling wine (Pinot Noir and Chardonnay).
The Salad was a perfect match to the Sauvignon Blanc from Estoras whose herbal qualities and bright acidity dealt well with the greens. The main course of Roast Beef (Joint) with Vegetables and Potatoes was well matched to an excellent Blaufrankisch (a dark wine with a definite fruity and spicy character). Finally the dessert was matched to an amazing Trockenbeerenauslese.
All the wines were from the Esterhazy Winery and exceptional in both their makeup and food matching quality. Once more the food and wine merge into sublimity.
Tour
The castle was built in the 13th Century and came under the Esterhazy ownership in the 17th. They added many of the Baroque features. As with many 300 year old castles, the history displayed here is massive with representations from different periods of the castle's (and families') evolution. A wine tasting was held with several more representations of the areas wines and then we went on a boat tour
Lake Neusiedlersee Boat Tour
Sparkling Wine Tasting
We drove from Eisenstadt to Rust where Illmitz (Drescher) Lines were waiting with a "shallow water" boat to take us across a very shallow but wide lake. The lake was basically four feet deep and almost surrounded by tall, bamboo type plants about six feet high. On the boat was held a wine tasting of sparkling wines presented by Szigetti along with some very fine pastry cakes.
The wines were from Gruner Veltliner, Muskat Ottonel and a blend of Zweigelt and Blaufrankish grapes which produced a very nice Rose.
Sweet Wine Tasting
Austria certainly enjoys a history of making sweet wines. We went to the Weinkulturhaus in Gols to taste 14 sweet wines from various styles. The wines ranged from a Spatlese and Auslese to Beerenauslese, Eiswein and Trockenbeerenauslese wines. My favourite was a Ruster Ausbruch which had a lovely nose of burning leaves and a palate of smoke, honey, minerality and some citrus.
Pannonian Dinner at Nyikospark Restaurant
A fine wine and food match was presented by the above restaurant with the following menu:
The evening started with a Small Hill Rose from Lentsch Franz
Chantrelle Mushrooms with Mushroom Soup. followed with a match of
Pinot Gris and Weissburgunder from Andeas Liegenfeld and Kaiser.
Fillet Of Pike-Perch mit Maize
Chardonnay and Chardonnay/Gruner Veltliner Blends.
Lamb With Shallots In Red Wine
Blaufrankisch and a blend of Zweigelt, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.
Cream Slice With Berries
Beerenauslese (Velich) and Ruster Ausbruch (Gunter Triebaumer).
This meal was decadent and after a day of drinking wines, we drank still more wines.
With that in mind, we ended our day by checking in at the Hotel Pannonia Tower -------and by the way, we were all driven and not one person that drove was drinking that night.
To be continued!

Two In A Vineyard: Vienna or Bust Days One and Two

2011-05-28T08:23:00.000-07:00

Getting There May 27th/28th
Being organized doesn't mean that you will be totally prepared for what is to come. So it went with the start of the Austrian portion of the new adventure. Our flight was to leave at 6:10 PM or 1810 hundred hours on May 27th. I was to be picked up at 1:15 PM or 13;15 hours . I spent 'till the last minute getting ready and even though my ride was late, I still couldn't help that feeling of forgetting something. I checked my bag over and over. I relented and off we went to the airport via the speedy 401. By the time we got to Leslie, traffic had slowed to a crawl aka construction but we arrived in plenty of time to get seats but not in time to get seats together. Together meant Sandie Kraft, Roy and myself.
They got the two seats together while I got the company of two males either side of my middle row seat. The flight was somewhat entertaining since one of those next to me was a computer and communication specialist in Afghanistan. We had a long chat as to the good that the occupation of this war torn country was achieving. The other person proved to be a student of my new friend Richard Johnston of By Chadsey's County.
The Arrival
Austrian Airlines Flight 072 arrived in the rain that she left in Canada. The weather was pouring and we were quick to be ushured into shuttle buses that took us to the passport check. There was no customs to speak of---not even travel forms to fill out. We then made our way through to the arrivals platform and were met by people from the AWMB (Austrian Wine Marketing Board). Our drive, Leopold, took us through Vienna and across the Danube to Hotel Am Konzerthaus.
After freshening up and having a coffee, I met the group and our new driver Tibero at the hotel lobby. It was Noon and we were up for 24 hours straight.
Tibero took us on a city tour which included the Museum, Parliament Buildings, Beethoven's House (one he stayed in in 1873), Franz Schubert's home and exceptional architecture that Vienna was/is known for. We stopped off at a restaurant called Weingut (Wine Cellar) Hajszan which was preparing for a wedding down in their superbly designed cellar. We also went to another Weingut that featured a baptism going on. Two In A Wineyard" was based on the premise that wine is a culture that brings together the many factors of humanity: birth, death, love, history, geography and history. So it came that we filmed a very happy and joyous group of people celebrating the baptism of their child. We then left the Weingut and went to one that was open. The food turned out excellent and was accompanied by some good Gruner Veltliner. The three of us had the same dish-----"Tafelspitz with vegies and potato hash. The "flank steak" was delicious and was enjoyed by all . Driver Tibero had a Rindsroulade served with mustard and noodles. After the meal we had double espresso coffee and then had seconds on the coffee. We returned to the hotel to freshen up and get ready for the whole team.
At six pm we were once again picked up at the Hotel support and he proceeded to take us to the Nussberg Vineyard for a wine get together with an international group of journalists from all over the world. Representatives from China, Russia, U.S.A., Bulgaria, Hungary, Britain, Germany and many more countries mingled and talked wine.
It is here that I must mention that Vienna is the only city in the world to be boasted as an actual Vineyard Appellation. It is very unique as having vineyards grown within its city limits.
The AWMB introduced some fine wines at the location at a vineyard high atop a hill overlooking the City of Vienna. Roy, Sandie and I took some amazing shots of the area surrounding the vineyard and of the City that was intermittently illuminated by the descending Sun as it peaked through the day's rain clouds. Rotes Haus am Nussberg was indeed a success.
The party went very well and we tried some find Gruner wines. Then it was off to the the house/restaurant that Ludwig van Beethovan wrote his "Nineth". Here we had a buffet dinner and tried some phenomenal wines both red and white, that were exquisite. The Cabernet Merlot was Roy's choice and we all loved the superb Pinot Noirs that showed much variation in body and taste. Sandie discovered a white wine a wine from what was called the Gemischter Satz grape but after inquiring found out that the grape variety was actually a style of wine made from several grape varieties grown side by side in the vineyard. While the varieties were not identified our guess was a Riesling, Werner or Gewurztraminer variety.
The Austrian Wine Marketing Board truly knows how to throw a party and it went on until about 11 PM or 2300 hours. We had been up for over 36 hours by this time and it was catching up to us so we decided to call it a night and headed off to the hotel where I am now finishing this entry.
On the whole it was a great night and an even greater day. At the end of it all, my mind wandered back to the earlier shows I did with Greg Rist and couldn't help but feel nostalgic. Greg, you are not here physically but you are here in spirit! Great Team! Great Shots! Great Day!
Wines Tasted
It was difficult to really do wines justice when tasting in such a large crowd with so much going on but I did manage to survey the group and come up with several wines that seemed to shine.
The Mephisto Cabernet, Zweigelt and Merlot blend was excellent with a firm backbone and a host of black and red fruit flavours which reminded me of some California representatives.
The other wine that stood out was a Wieninger Pinot Noir grand Select which came with a bevy of complex fruit flavours and a medium full body. The wine certainly went well with the foods presented----especially the lighter and saltier entries.
To be fair to the other wines, it is difficult to judge anything when such a crowd is indulging and the senses are being attacked from all levels and directions. But, on the other hand, if something sticks out, it does have merit to mention.
Tomorrow is another day!

"Two In A Vineyard" The Adventure Begins!

2011-05-12T04:46:00.000-07:00

Here We Go Again!
If I am correct, I remember mentioning to my former "Adventures In Wine Country" co-host, Greg Rist, that I wasn't going to do another series, article, book to do with wine again. Though the final product was excellent and the series was a critical success and well received, I had expected more. Greg and I had travelled over 75,000 miles and visited 6 countries, at least 30 wine regions, almost 200 wineries, tasted countless wines (not to mention the food----OH!! The food!!!) and met some of he most interesting and charming people ever! All this was done in a whirlwind Spring, Summer, Fall and Early Winter journey that taxed our resources both physically, mentally and financially. We did it and did it well! I felt that that was it!
I remember Greg looking across from the table at our McDonald's meeting place and saying, "Chuck, it's in your blood. You can no sooner give up wine writing and production as I could give up my work and passion!!!" Greg was absolutely correct!
After some rest and rethinking, I began writing again and then that led to tasting and finally---the unbelievable----the words "New Series" came to mind. This time, however, I would aim at a new demographic---another group of wine lovers. I chose women ages 35 to 55 as the main group. Of course the series would be seen and appreciated by other demographics but my main focus was to be women. Why??
Women in that age range are increasingly becoming aware of wine and appreciating both its health and social benefits. Statistics show that women are also moving towards all facets of wine appreciation---from White and Rose to Reds. Educational Facilities dealing with wine are reporting massive increases in the number of women enrolled in classes and when one looks at the constitution of winemakers, sommeliers and consultants in Ontario alone, it is clear that women are making a significant increase in their numbers. The situation around the globe is the same with women surging ahead in their appreciation of this great beverage. One woman winemaker/marketer in Veneto/Lugana, Nadia Zenato, has formed a professional women's society that is making headway around the World. Another, Ontario Sommelier Lindsay Groves, has spent the better part of this year in India working as both a consultant and writer. Lindsay who is still in India, was one of my main subjects in an article I did last year called "Sommelier". The number of Canadian women wine "experts" keeps growing: Natalie MacLean, Judy Eberspaecher (her cookbook "Totally Scallops" won fourth place in the "World's Best New Cookbook Competition), Christie Lee McWatters and Sherri Darling to name a few.
In order to start this off, I needed a female co-host to attract that part of the demographic. Sandra Kraft---well known wine consultant and oenophile---was perfect for the job. She had the knowledge, style and presence to ensure the image that would encourage women to watch the program. The fact that she was "very easy on the eyes" ensured that the male demographic would also be very prominently visible. She certainly made up for my bald headed wonder!!!
The title of the new series says it all! The show will be about two persons---one male and one female visiting vineyards wherever their journey takes them. Vineyards however will not be the only ventures that these two will take. Wherever there are vineyards, there is a story that involves history, geography, cuisine and culture. Intertwined with the the "juice of the vine" will be the "soul" of the area we will visit. Wine is a living, breathing creation which is made by living, breathing people who live in areas rich in culture scenery and folklore. This is what interests people and this is what wine is all about!
"Two In A Vineyard" has already filmed in Prince Edward County, Durham Region, Niagara, Toronto. Soon it will be going to various parts of the globe. Stay tuned and keep an eye out for some terrific new adventures in places that will make your imagination go wild and spirit run free!!

Solvang California and Hadsten House Prepare For Possible Royal Visit

2011-04-09T07:22:00.000-07:00

In 1911 a group of very industrious and talented Danes bought some land in the Santa Ynez Vally, not far from Santa Barbara and named it after a Danish Community in Denmark. Solvang has grown to be an absolutely lovely spot in a true "Heaven on Earth' area. The city proper is almost a fantasy with Danish style buildings and specialty foods. The names like Hanson, Olsen to name a couple have the Danish flavour and of course the cuisine is right out of the "homeland". Solvang is also famous for being in what is now the almost Iconic movie "Sideways". The fact that it is in the midst of Santa Barbara County wine country is not only a plus but it adds to the already superb cuisine available there. Bill Phelps, General Manager of my favourite lodging place in the "Valley"----The Hadsten House, mentioned that to celebrate the One Hundredth Anniversary of Solvang, the Danish Royal Couple may be visiting. Wow! Two Royal events in 2011----the wedding of Andrew and Kate and now this. One hundred years does not seem too much to some people, but imagine what these brave and enterprising people did. They left their home country and travelled to what must have been very difficult terrain to start a new life. What they did and what transpired was a vibrant, bustling community full of absolutely great people and scenic spots. I love this place for many a reason and wish Solvang a very. very Happy Anniversary. I would suggest a visit to this locale any time but especially this year. At almost anytime one can have a great time but this year there will be double the icing on the cake and double the scoops on the ice cream-----then of course there's the wine!!!!!!

Seriously Cool----Canadian Chardonnays Are Off To New York

2011-02-06T12:08:00.000-08:00

Scrivener's Square Liquor Control Board Store, Toronto
I was on hand when the Wine Writers' Circle Of Canada held a tasting of some 50 Chardonnays from various parts of Canada. These were wines that were selected to represent Canada at a New York event which matched our best with their best.
The tasting was filled with a number of surprises. These included certain interesting omissions, delightful inclusions and some serious wondering on my part.
As far as the serious wondering, in my opinion some wines from some very well known estates did not fit the bill. They were lacking in fruit and rather thin. Some where old before their time.
The omissions had me baffled since some of my favourite "guard" wines were missing. When I asked how come, I was told maybe they just did not enter. Sad, since I clearly would have thought them to represent Canada well.
I will speak of the delightful surprises. The first was a large and almost disproportionate representation of Prince Edward County Wines. Everyone likes to take "shots" at the "New Kid On The Block" but this time the "Kid" shot back in spades.
Norman Hardie came out with some fine Chardonnay from both Niagara and PEC grapes. The New Casa Dea (old Carmela Estates) produced a fine light wine with fine fruit made from 100% Prince Edward County. The Grange of Prince Edward County also produced a nicely integrated wine as did Huff Estates and Rosehall Run.
Of the few British Colombia entries I found three that I liked more than the rest. Quails Gate, Stewert Family Reserve, Meyer Family Tribute Series and Mission Hill had a nice concentration of citrus and melon, tropical fruits and a fine minerality.
Ontario was well represented but four wines stood out for me! They were Hidden Bench, Tete de Cuvee 2008, Cave Spring Cellars CSV 2007,Henry of Pelham Family Reserve 2007 and Pilliteri Estates Exclamation 2006. Honourable mentions went to Closson Chase S. Kocsis, Southbrook and Pondview.
I would like to give my heart felt congratulations to the great wineries of Canada with a special note to those of Ontario for the production of some fine wines which I am sure will represent Canada very well in New York.

Le Clos Jordanne Proves Its Merit Once Again!

2010-11-28T17:01:00.000-08:00

Beginnings
I was there at the start. It was 2000 when I and a number of writers were invited by then CEO and President of Vincor, Donald Triggs and Jean Charles Boisset of Boisset La Famille Des Grande Vins to view what was to be Le Clos Jordanne. The vines were small then----actually quite tiny. The day was electric----with anticipation of greatness. The feeling was positive. We were all gathered atop this very hard to locate vineyard on the Niagara Bench knowing that magnificent wine was going to be produced here. I remember walking along side of Don Triggs throwing out names for a second wine label should it be needed. I suggested "Le Petit Clos Jordanne". While the name was never used in that context, it was a good beginning which continued to get better.
Nothing was spared in the creation of Le Clos Jordanne. The best Bugundy clones, experience viticulturists and of course pain was taken in the selection of the location. All the parts were a perfect fit and fit well they did. Now, some ten years later, Le Clos Jordanne is part of Vincor----A Constellation Company and Boisset. As the parents have grown, so has Le Clos.
Vinicultural Practice
Organic viticultural practices along with time honoured Burgundy methods and New World innovations have catapulted this vineyard's wines into the World scene. Well known wine writer, viniculturist and wine maker Thomas Bachelder took over the reigns and made a good thing even better. His dedication to perfection metamorphosed into a magnificent and lovely butterfly. His work has been advanced by new (2007) winemaker, Sebastien Jacquey.
Sebastien was Thomas Bachelder's assistant winemaker for several vintages and has now inherited full winemaker's status. He came with exceptional credentials such as Baron Philippe de Rothschild in Bordeaux, Loire Valley, Corsica, and of course Burgundy.
Now he assumed control of the 2008 vintage. While it wasn't an easy go----the summer rains made life difficult for viticulturists and the weather was variable however vineyard management techniques and a warm, dry spell during harvest certainly helped the cause. While this was not your best "red" year, cool climate Pinot Noir showed well and the skill of the winemaker proved the difference.
I went up to the winery proper on Sunday, November 21st and got a first hand tasting of the 2008 Le Clos Jordanne Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays. My taste leaned a bit toward the Chardonnays especially the Claystone but both sets of wines were amazing.
Notes:
Chardonnay
All the wines had a clear, brilliant lemon yellow colour
Village Reserve (a blend of three vineyards Talon Ridge, Claystone and Le Clos Jordanne)
Nose: Initially a bit reluctant but floral notes and nuances of vanilla spice, citrus fruit were slowly given up.
Palate: Nice mouth feel with good harmony. Butter gives way to ripe pear/melon/citrus with a clean pleasant fruit/and mineral finish
Talon Ridge
Nose: Initial smoke gives way to apple nuances and tropical fruit
Palate: As previous, nice mouth feel and body. Butter and nut fruit with a minerality that seems to be a consistent with these wines. Nice finish.
Claystone Terrace
Nose: Another wine with flinty smoke, mineral with peach/apricot and nut.
Palate: Predominately cream with butterscotch and white fruit, pebbles/minerality and pleasant vanilla oak.
Le Clos Jordanne Vineyard
Nose: Floral with mineral flint, white fruit (pear/apple/peach) with nicely integrated oak
Palate: Minerality predominates through the wine with vanilla oak spice and a steely, pebble finish.
Le Grand Clos
Nose: A tough wine to access since it was very reluctant to give any indication as to who or what it was. Smokey flint was first noticed. Nutty almond, maybe some pear nuances and definitely mineral. I am sure that as it ages, it will become very complex.
Palate: Mouth feel is excellent in body----somewhere between medium and full. Mineral steel with nuts, maybe peach/apricot nuances. Vanilla oak spice and pebble finish.
Pinot Noir
Village Reserve
Nose: Red berries, vanilla wood spice, some toastiness and a touch of Listerine on nose.
Palate: Light to Light/Medium in body, red fruit (strawberries, red currants, cherries) and lasting mineral finish. Well integrated. Very nice wine for the price ($25).
Talon Ridge
Nose: Red fruit (cherries, strawberries) keeps evolving in the glass to riper reds. Vanilla nuances and minerality.
Palate: Medium body, some stone with cherry/red berry flavours as the wine evolves in glass. Lingering finish with pleasant acidity. Nice wine!
La Petite Colline
Nose: Mixture of black and red fruit but mainly black (cherry, blueberry, raspberry). Somewhat spicier than expected but with a strong mineral influence. Somewhat floral notes and dainty elegance.
Palate: Medium bodied, more dark fruit and pebbles/stone with a lingering blackberry fruit finish.
Claystone Terrace (very dark wine)
Nose: Tight and foreboding. The wine releases bits of clues to what it will be like in a few years time. Chocolate, black fruit with smoke and a sense of strong mineral.
Palate: Lean and mean but with much promise. Strong mineral ore style. Nice tannins and acidity. Medium to full body. Promise of black fruit and much richness to come. Long lingering finish. Live long and prosper of heavenly wine!!!!!
Le Clos Jordanne Vineyard
Nose: Rich and more forward than the Claystone. This wine wants to please immediately yet has the staying power of a trooper.Violets give way to black/red fruit flavours great vanilla spice with hints of cedar.
Palate: Medium plus body, black berry and cherry flavours linger in the mouth with harmonious acid/sugar integration. Power with elegant class.
Le Grand Clos
Nose: Closed but with time reveals itself very slowly. Some dark fruit reveals itself in the glass with floral bouquet barely evident but indicating promise. After an hour in glass some smoke, leather and seems to mingle with the fruit. Much promise!
Palate:Full in body with dark fruit flavours. Evidence of chocolate and licorice spice. As with the other wines, strong mineral component leads to a strong and powerful finish. Much to come!!
My Favourites
It is hard to dwell on favourites when one has such a great array of wines. It also depends on what you are picking your favourites for. For drinking purposes now I would pick without hesitation the Village Reserve Chardonnay and Pinot Noir followed by the Claystone Chardonnay and Le Clos Jordanne Vineyard Pinot Noir. For long aging/cellaring I would definitely pick the Grand Clos of both colours as well as the Claystone Pinot. However, any of these wines would be worth a place on any table or cellar.
Le Clos Jordanne will do for Canadian red wine what Inniskillin's Icewine did in the '90's.

There's A New Wine In The Paddock

2010-11-12T03:52:00.000-08:00

Actors and Vineyards!
It used to be that one's fantasy about life's progression was "to plant a Fig tree and grow old with it!" Some would exchange the Fig with another form of arboreous love, an Oak or Cherry or maybe even that old stand by, the Apple tree! However, more and more the attention to existential survival has become-----The Vine!
Wine has been around since the dawn of civilization and the source of all wine. The vineyard, has captured man's imagination almost as long. It has come to be associated with a serenity, patience, simplicity and all that is good about life.
Lately, more and more celebrities have used their resources to fulfil this dream albeit many also do it as an investment. Steven Seagal, Mario Andretti, Dan Ackroyd, Wayne Gretzky, Mike Weir, Cliff Richard, Johnny Depp, Francis For Coppola, David/Victoria Beckam, Brad Pitt/Angela Jolie and Nancy Pilosi to name a few all own vineyards. Trend does not seem to be stopping none too soon either. Actor Sam Neil is doing just great with both his fine acting career and as owner (since 1993) of Two Paddocks Vineyards located in New Zealand's Central Otago (South Island).
Paddock Vineyards and Sam Neil

When I met Mr. Neil at a tasting of his Paddock wine I mentioned to him that I did not envy him since acting was a very tough profession. What I should have said was that it would be very hard for me since I just didn't have the stuff that Mr. Neil was made of!
Sam Neil is indeed one of the most talented and versatile actors that I have ever had to pleasure of watching on the big and little screens. I have never seen him in a live play but would guess that he is equally talented in that end also.
Mr. Neil's roles have been many and he plays each one that I have seen to perfection. Whether it is the restrained and loving husband in "The Horse Whisperer", a Paleontologist with a penchant for meeting Velociraptors in "Jurassic Park" or a Cardinal (Wolsey) in The Tudors, he does so with utmost competence and accuracy. His most recent project is acting in a new film yet unreleased (2012) called "The Vow".
When I met Mr. Neil he appeared very much in shape, youthful and, for a person who had only about an hour's sleep (late filming) ----very fresh and relaxed. He struck me as a very gentle, sensitive individual who did anything he attempted with a perfectionist's seriousness. Yet, he also struck me as an individual who loved life, his privacy and most of all his art! Easy to talk to and reservedly friendly, Mr. Sam Neil in my mind was the perfect example of the term "Class"!
Paddock Wines
"Class" can also be used in describing his wines. Why would one get involved in a vineyard? Well for one thing there would have to be a great deal of three items: Patience, Terroir and most of all finances. Owning a vineyard in an up and coming country like New Zealand is not for the feint hearted or the poor. There also has to be a great deal of foresight and faith about and in the product. I guess love would also have to come into the picture since if you did not love what you were involved in there would be no reciprocity and thus no reason for being there.
I would think that the work done on and with Paddock wines has certainly succeeded. The winery produces first rate Pinot Noir, Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough).
Three Vineyards
Paddock has three vineyards: First Paddock in the Gibbston Valley, Alex Paddocks near Alexandra and above the Clutha River and Redbank Paddocks Earnscleugh Valley. Two Paddocks produces two types of wine levels, Picnic Wines by Two Paddocks an affordable and top notch quaffing wine for easy drinking, nice times and fun atmosphere and Two Paddocks Pinot Noir a first rate premium contender to the Pinot crown.
The Wines
The following wines were tasted at the Albany Club, Toronto on October 21st 2010.
Picnic Riesling By Two Paddocks
Colour: Light Straw
Nose: Citrus lime and orange, hint of peach
Palate: Citrus, small suggestion of fruit sweetness, mineral/pebbles and very nice lingering crisp finish
This wine is a winner------too bad it will disappear from the shelves quickly at $19.95. Oh that Christmas Turkey!!!!

Picnic Pinot Noir 2009 (not yet released)
Produced in a cooler year with a fair bit of moisture/some early frosts.
Colour: Cherry red
Nose: Somewhat closed at first but second try revealed some spice and floral notes! Some barn characteristics followed by herbal spice and dark/red fruit.
Palate: Some strong tannins but lean---almost French like. Nice minerality and mouthfeel. A lengthy spice on the finish.An every day wine by some but will definitely improve over the next five years or possibly more if kept correctly. A credit to those who tended the vines as well as the winemaker.
Picnic Pinot Noir 2008
Nice mild year with a dry harvest
Colour: Cherry Red
Nose: Expressive red fruit with floral notes as well as a hint of barn.
Palate: Lean minerality with pleasant tannins for drinking but accentuated enough to suggest further aging of up to four years or more. Nice harmonious mouthfeel with pleasant finish.
Two Paddocks 2009
Colour: Dark Cherry Red
Nose: Needs time! Somewhat closed but initial notes of violets, dark fruit and herbal spice
Palate: Powerful tannins have a way to go towards integration but there is great future promise ahead. Mid mouthfeel and long finish. A wine to age in cellar but this will be worth it.
Two Paddocks 2007
Apparently a difficult year in the Central Otago but one where careful maintenance proved the turn around.
Colour: Ruby Red
Nose: A cornucopia of scents from violets and exotic spice to rich floral and red berry scents
Palate: Red, dark fruit with coffee and chocolate as well as some toastiness and a very nice finish. It could age a couple of more years maybe but why bother----clearly my favourite. It cries for New Zealand (or Ontario) lamb!!!!
Epilogue
While I sometimes wonder whether it is just an "it sounds like a good idea" and/or "because I can" thought process for certain celebrities to purchase and maintain vineyards, it clearly is apparent that Mr. Sam Neil invested for the right reasons and if my humble opinion is worth anything, Two Paddocks is and will continue to develop as a very well respected maker of fine wines throughout the globe. Nice stuff.

Brazil and Its "Equatorial Vines"

2010-10-30T04:42:00.000-07:00

Vines At The Equator?
Lions, Tigers and Bears! Oh my!!! Now we hear of vines at the equator-----the Brazilian Equator to be precise! But before you start "pooh pawing" this fact lets look at what we are dealing with here. First of all Brazil is huge! Very huge! It is the fifth largest country in the world and covers almost as much land mass as the United States which is only a tiny bit bigger.
That means that this country has an amazing amount of climates even though it is at the Equator. The scene goes from steamy jungle and tropical forest to very high land levels and from dry regions to tempestuous rainy areas to some snow------did I say snow? Yep-----snow! Now it isn't the Canadian Blizzard type of snow but you still see the flakes.
How come? It all has to do with altitude and some of these land levels reach 2000 metres or more. This means that with the right soil or lack of thereof, the conditions may be right for that famed vine Vitis Vinifera to flourish. Brazilian wine, in some ways started much the same as it did in California------those phenomenal Italian immigrants and their propensity for cultivating the fruit of the vine!
1875 and all that!
Vines were planted in Brazil as early as the 16th Century. Monks infused the vines in the 17th.
According to IBRAVIN (Instituto Brasileiro Do Vinho) which is the promotional agency for the Wines of Brazil, Italian immigrants that settled in the state of Rio Grande do Sol started the wine industry in earnest. By 1884 the production grew to over 8 million litres. Expansion continued to other regions and by the 1990's the wine industry saw not only a wider expanse in the production of wine but also a better educated group of producers. Shortly after in 1998, the Brazilian Wine Institute was founded.
Wine Regions
Six Regions are the focus of wine production in Brazil and range from about 200 metres to 1400 metres above sea level. Since Brazil is so vast in both size and geographic diversity, it is not accurate to think of it as a country that consists only of steaming tropical forest and jungle. Brazil has many faces and according to wine, food and travel writer Sheila Puritt , the wine areas of Brazil resemble more of the highlands of Italy.
Here the diversity is still remarkable. One can actually see snow fall in some areas whereas in another, the year may see two harvests as compared to the usual one. The grape varieties are also diverse with many European vinifera varieties grown with great success.
Serra Gaucha
This largest and most important of the wine regions where almost 90 percent of all the wine made in Brazil comes from, is in the North Eastern portion of the Rio Grande do Sul in Southern Brazil. The demography is of German and Italian descent. With an average low/high temperature yield of 11.6 to 21.9 degrees Celsius and ample rainfall making irrigation not necessary, the area is ideal for wine production. Serra Gaucha has the appellation I.G. Vale dos Vinhedos within it. Here everything is "state of the art" for the production of high quality red and white grapes and thus, wine. Here Riesling, Chardonnay, Proseco, Moscato and Malvasia (White) and Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc Tennat, Ancellota and Pinot Noir (Red) grown.
Campanha and Serra Sudeste
Actually two regions next to each other border the Country of Uruguay. Though sub tropical in climate, the higher elevations can be quite cool and frosts do occur though snow is rare. The low fertility of the soil, warm summer temperatures and ample rainfall do allow grapes to ripen well and thus the climate is excellent for high quality wine production. Grapes of a similar type to Serra Gaucha are grown with a good amount of Portuguese varieties such as Alfrocheiro and Touriga Nacional.
Planalto Catarinense
Located North East of the previous regions, this area has varied temperatures and climate which can attain high temperatures and humid conditions in one area and very cold temperatures with frequent snow and frost in others. In the cold areas, temperatures as low as -15 Celsius have been recorded. Their is ample rainfall with cooler climate grape varieties (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir (Red) Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay (White).
Campos de Cima da Serra
Squeezed between Serra Gaucha and Planalto Catarinense, this region is said to be as cold as it is beautiful with frequent winter snow and freezing temperatures. Vines are grown and similar to the Planalto above with Merlot and Cabernet being the primary grapes.
Vale do San Francisco
Located in the northeast part of Brazil is this region stretches from the Sao Francisco River to the states of Minas Gerais, Bahia and Pernambuco. While parts of this area get ample rainfall, the valley area that produces wine is semi arid to arid and has had government investment in the irrigation of the land. The warm, dry climate is very beneficial to the vines and grapes----producing healthy grapes with high levels of sugar. One of the truly interesting things about this region is that there are two harvests every year. Cabernet, Syrah, Aragonez (red) and Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Malvasia Bianca and Muscat (white) are grown.

Brazil is fast becoming an international player in the fine wine field and has already established a fine reputation for Sparkling Wines. Serious players now produce some very interesting wines and famous consultants/writers such as Michel Roland and Jancis Robinson have taken an interest. Brazil, known for its beaches, cuisine, rain forest and great cities will now have wine to add to its repertoire.
Wines Of Brazil Luncheon And Media Tasting
I recently travelled to Toronto to attend a wine/food matching dinner at CAJU, a Brazilian restaurant. The wines were many and the food superb. Here's a sample of the fine repast!
Cave Geisse (Serra Gaucha)
Situated at at quite a high altitude in an area somewhat similar in looks to Umbria or Tuscany, the sparkling wines of Cave Geisse are said to be the finest in Brazil---maybe South America.
Cave Geisse Sparkling Brut 2008 (Aperitif)
This wine is made in the Traditional Method (Second Fermentation in original bottle). Wine is a blend 70 % Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir. Very nice stream of tiny bubbles that last for a long time. Straw yellow colour.
Nose: Baked Bread and yeast with fruit aromas some sweetness.
Palate: Pleasant mouthfeel with very clean, fresh effect on mouth and tongue. Medium bodied with lingering finish.
Cave Geisse Sparkling Nature (Seminar Tasting)
Also made in the Traditional Method with 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir, equally small bubbles as its predecessor but has a slight greener tinge and golden colour.
Nose: Yeast and ferment with fresh baked bread, some citrus and fruit.
Palate: Super mouthfeel and great integrity/harmony. Nice acid backbone and finish.
Courmayeur Winery (Serra Gaucha)
This winery was founded in 1976 by Italian immigrants and is under the directorial ship of Gillian Nicoli ni Verzeletti. It is located in the Valle d'Aosta near the city of Garabaldi all within the region of Serra Gaucha.
Courmayeur Sparkling Rose (Aperitif)
Made from 100 % Pinot Noir grapes, this wine is made via the Charmat Method (Secondary Fermentation is done in pressurized containers) but the size of the bubbles and consistency made me believe I was drinking a Traditional wine. The colour is a nice shade of Rose.
Nose: Smoke, toasted bread, fruit (Strawberry/Cherry)
Palate: Nice pleasant mouthfeel with some fruit notes and pleasant acid bite to the finish.
Courmayeur Sparkling Chardonnay Brut (Seminar Tasting)
Although this straw coloured wine is called a Chardonnay, it does have a small percentage of Pinot Noir included. Again Charmat made but seemingly Traditional.
Nose: Fresh bread and yeast ferment. Some melange fruit flavours.
Palate: Immediately pleasing with a nice integrity/harmony of apple/citrus and red fruit flavours. Refreshing acidity making a nice lingering finish.
Cordelier Winery (Serra Gaucha)
This winery was founded in 1987 by Lidio Ziero within the IG subregion of Vale dos Vinhedos. Quite high at 600 metres it is a great example of the terroir, scrupulous low yields and the modern technology used in winemaking.
Cordelier Sparkling Rose (Aperitif)
This 100 % Merlot is quite pleasing to look at. Striking Pink/Red in colour it exhibits small consistent bubbles. While they say 100 % Merlot, I am tasting some Chardonnay also. Charmat Method.
Nose: Red and Dark fruit of medium intensity very fragrant.
Palate: Generous mouthfeel, fruit on palate similar to the nose. Nicely done integration. Nice food wine that can be used as a main course wine with a wide range of foods.
Cordelier Sparkling Brut (Seminar Tasting)
This is a traditional method wine. Very tiny bubbles with a blend of 80% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir from the IG district.
Nose: Bread, yeast and toast with butter and tropical fruit (Pineapple, mango, papaya)
Palate: Full in the mouth with nice fruit and citrus flavours plus a pleasant but not overly tough acidity that lingers softly.
Santo Emilio Winery (Planalto Catarinense)
One of the few wines at this tasting that was not from Serra Gaucha. In 2003 the Binotto family purchased the Quintos dos Montes farm with the hopes of making it into a high quality winery. The area that the farm's in is perhaps one of the coldest spots in Brazil (try -15 Celsius) but the vines would have to work hard and that makes for good quality.
Santo Emilio Sparkling Stellato (Lunch)
This sparkling wine started the lunch which initially began with Cassava Cheese Bread, Cheddar Cheese. The wine was quite good with the entree and was enjoyable on its own.
Nose: Berry, Melon notes. Pleasant and went well with the food.
Palate: Pleasant mouthfeel, medium body with some berry flavours.
Santo Emilio Seco Marca Leopoldo (Seminar)
Dark red and seemingly concentrated this is yet another wine from the cool clime of Planalto Catarinense.
Nose: Concentrated with a bouquet of black fruit, vanilla spice/pepper.
Palate: Full in body, rich with jam/fruit flavours, obvious but not overbearing tannins, long finish.
Don Guerino Winery (Serra Gaucha)
Located in the district of Alto Feliz the winery was established in 2000 by the descendants of Valentino Motter who immigrated from Italy in 1880.
Don Guerino Chardonnay (Seminar)
Lemon yellow in colour with a brilliant clear liquid note.
Nose: Floral notes with citrus, apple and pear notes. Some honey nuances.
Palate: Well integrated. Fruit sweetness, citrus and Granny Smith Apple notes. Nice acidity and lingering fruit finish.
Don Guerino Sparkling Moscatel (Lunch, Dessert)
Untasted
Dom Candido Winery (Serra Gaucha)
One of the original planters (1875) in the Vale dos Vinhedos, the Verduga family from Italy founded their new winery in 2001.
Dom Candido Geracao Marselan (Seminar)
Marselan is a a hybrid mix of Grenache and Cabernet Sauvignon with the colour of the Grenache which also likes warm weather and the style of the Cabernet Sauvignon. Name comes from the Mediterranean village of Marseillan----the point or origin for the variety.
Nose: Red fruit, cloves and herbal spice
Palate: Medium body, nice forward but firm tannins, fruit flavours and persistent spice (clove) finish.
Dom Candido DC Merlot (Lunch, accompanying Grilled Steak, Cassava chips, Collard Greens, Farofa, Pepper Vinaigrette)
Dark violet in colour the wine is 100% Merlot. This reserve wine is aged three months in oak.
Nose: Light vanilla wood, some dark then red (cherry) fruit, mild chocolate and Cassis.
Palate: Medium plus in body, pleasant wine with a pleasant spice finish.
Sanjo Winery (Planalto Catharinense)
This cooperative originally started with 34 fruit growers in 1993. As a diversion from the usual Italian immigrant starting the vineyards, it seems that the growers are of Japanese descent.
The 2002 the first vineyards were planted at different levels of altitude producing very specific wine characteristics.

Sanjo Cabernet Sauvignon Maestrale (Seminar)
This Cabernet Sauvignon is grown in the Sao Joaquim area at three different levels of altitude from 1300 metres to 1380 metres. It is then selected and harvested by hand and pressed very carefully. It is then fermented in stainless steel tanks with a maceration period of 12 to 20 days.
The wine is then barrel aged for 10 months. A dark ruby colour.
Nose: Plum, black berry, Cassis, pepper, herbal spice and a hint of vanilla wood.
Palate: Ripe fruit and well integrated. Nice backbone with a full body. Strong tannins that meld well with the palate. Long finish with a touch of vanilla/anise.
Sanjo Cabernet Sauvignon Nubio (Lunch with Grilled Steak as above)
This wine is also 100 % Cabernet Sauvignon and was hand harvested. It was fermented in stainless steel and macerated for 8 to 10 days. 50 % of it was aged in oak for five months and the rest in stainless steel. The result is a complex wine with true varietal flavour and fruit. The resulting wine is a deep red or garnet in colour.
Nose: Violets, ripe red fruit, chocolate and slight wood spice
Palate:Mellow, full with red and black fruit, constructive tannins and nice length with a fruit finish.
Miolo Winery (Serra Gaucha)

The Miolo Winery is Brazil's largest wine exporter with wine projects and vines in five wine regions. While the family has been in the wine business since their ancestor, Giuseppe Miolo came over from Veneto (one of my favourite places) in 1897. The actual Miolo company started in 1989 and has quickly grown to include not only the above projects but also partnerships with several countries such as Italy, France, Spain, Chile and Argentina. Presently the company produces more than 100 labels of wine product.
Miolo Quinta Do Seival Castas Portuguesas (Seminar)
This was one of my choice of favourite wines that I tasted at this event. I have a passion for the Alfrocheiro grape variety and identified it almost immediately. The wine is made from Portuguese varieties Touriga Nacional, Tinto Roriz and Alfrocheiro. The grapes are manually prepared and both cold macerated (four days) and then macerated for 10 to 15 days. There is a maturation period of 12 months in new French oak. The wine is very dark red colour.
Nose: Ripe fruit both red and dark (almost a melange), chocolate, and licorice.
Palate: Full and concentrated, harmonious and a lengthy finish of fruit.
Miolo Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva (Lunch with Steak)
The Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon from Miolo is also hand harvested and selected. It goes through a cold maceration (4 days)
and regular maceration (5-10 days). The wine matures in both French and American oak. The wine has a strong red appearance.
Nose: Cherry and blackberry notes with nuances of Plum and a touch of chocolate.
Palate: Some strong tannins indicating need for aging, otherwise full and round on palate. Finish has tannic touch to it. Definitely a food wine.
Pizzato Winery (Serra Gaucha)
Yet another name from the endless source known as Veneto. This time, one of the original immigrants known as Antonio Pizzato began this company's wine making journey in 1875 thus establishing a 135 year wine making tradition. The present company was founded in 1999.
I contacted Chief Winemaker Fluvio Pizzato regarding the name of his Chardonnay
which was, Chardonnay Safra 2009 SC Fino. He emailed me back saying that "Safra" meant the vintage and that "Fino" meant that the wine was a Vitis Vinifera not another Vitis genus. You learn something new every day-----that's why I love wine!!!
Pizzato DNA 99 Single Vineyard Merlot
DNA 99 is fermented in stainless steel and aged in new French oak for 9 months. The result is a very dark red wine.
Nose: Ripe red and dark fruit, somewhat jammy with coffee and chocolate with vanilla
Palate: Medium to full with more ripe fruit, coffee and chocolate with vanilla/pepper on the finish.
Pizzato Chardonnay (Lunch with Cheese/Mixed Salad)
This wine was fermented in stainless steel and fermented at low temps. Fermentation 15 days plus Malolactic Fermentation. No oak. Pale yellow in colour.
Nose: Clean, fresh, melon, citrus, apple, pear, some floral notes
Taste: Harmonious, nice acidity, some tropical fruit, lingering fresh acidity on finish.
Salton Winery (Serra Gaucha)
Started in 1910 when a group of brothers took over their Italian father's business, this company has flourished and now makes superb wine. Salton is noted for its sparkling wine production both in the making of and selling it. The company is also noted as being very environmentally conscious in its treatment in all aspects of wine production. Special programs to protect nature are in place to make sure that all the environment is protected
Salton Talento (Seminar)
This wine is hand treated in all aspects of viticulture in addition to the harvest and selection of the grapes. The wine is made up of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 10 % Tennat. Maceration takes place for 20 days at low temperatures and there is further aging for 12 months in new French Oak. Wine is a deep purple in colour.
Nose: Black and red fruit, vanilla wood, Cassis
Palate: Full, velvety, nice tannic structure, some anise on finish which was quite long.
Salton Brut Reserva Quro (Lunch, Served with dessert)
Untasted.
Lidio Carraro Winery (Serra Gaucha)
Five generations in the wine making family culminated in the founding of this winery i n 1998 with a crop production in 2002.
Lido Carraro Touriga Nacional/Tennat (Seminar----from Serra Do Sudeste)
Nicely coloured wine that is in true form with great Portuguese still wines.
Nose: Floral notes of violets and tropical flowers with undertones of chocolate and raspberry flavours.
Palate: Mature tannins full mouthfeel with a pleasant lingering finish
LidioCarraro Grande Vindima Quorum
One of the ultra premium wines of this winery, it is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Tennat varieties. This is a dark wine with obvious complexity.
Nose: Black fruit, red berries with herbal spice and pepper, chocolate and coffee on the undertone.
Palate: Similar to top with ripe tannins and lingering finish.

Lunch
Each of the entries has already been listed with the wines but for continuence sake here are the meals with the wines that were served with them.
Appetizer: Pao de Quieijo
Cassava cheese bread: cheddar cheese/chorico
Salada Verde
Organic mixed greens, dried berries, roasted pumpkin seeds, passion fruit dressing
Wines
Santo Emilio Sparkling Stellalto
Pizzato Chardonnay
Main Entre: Carne
Gri lled striploin steak, cassava chips, collard greens, farofa, pepper vinaigrette
or Peixe
Seared halibut, potato gaiette, red pepper sauce, saffron tomato salsa
or Frango
Lemmon cilantro, grilled chicken breast, Heart of Palm and sweet potato puree
Wines
Dom Candido DC Merlot
Miolo Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva
Sanjo Cabernet Sauvignon Nubio
Lidio Carraro Grande Vindima Quorum
Dessert
Passion Fruit mousse
or Dark Chocolat Fondant
or Tropical Fruit
Wines
Salton Sparkling Brut Reserva Quoro
Don Guerino Sparkling Moscatel

I would like to thank the following people who made this event possible:
Mr. Afonso Cardsoso Brazillian Ambasador Toronto
Ms. Wonja Campos da Nobrega Consul General Adjoint of Brazil
Ms. Angela Circco Rodriges Brazilian Trade Commission
Ms. Andreia Gentilini Milan Export Manager Wines of Brazil